Razor Guillotine

by Botmaster Aug 5, 2014
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Really nice work! Can you tell me what unit system was used for drawing and creating the STLs? I am from Europe, and there we do use the SI unit system with mm and so on. I had some problems with external STLs because they were initially in inches and I tried to print them in mm and then... yes it was a print, but it was not in the right size, unfortunately,

Also, I would like to know if you used some special methods in designing to reduce filament needs?

on the knobs in my case the detail is to fine.

Cool design for a neat little desktop tool. HOWEVER, I suggest a few changes be made.
Get rid of the piano wire and post caps, get some 2-1/2" long (not including the head) stainless bolts with 1-1/2" long shoulders, cut the head off and press it with the threads facing up into the drilled out base. Use a nut on top that will screw right off for easy blade replacements and also act as an adjustable height stop. (I used 1/4-20 bolts because I had some laying around, but 3/16 (.1875") would be good too. Just put a tight drill bit in one side to line up the holes, while you drill the other side. (I used a small clamp to hole them together from the side) Use very small drill bit increments if you print this as is, or you will get off center or worse it could even break. (or resize the holes on the STL before printing) Make the base holes a press fit to your screw, then drill the lever/handle holes just slightly bigger than your screw so it will easily slide up and down the shafts (add a couple drops of olive oil for super smooth movement.) I used 3/4" long springs that I had from a spring assortment kit from Harbor Freight. As for the fence/stop, I see no reason for a screw in the back, as mine was pretty tight already.)
I made the 50mm base, and it came out good, however, I am considering remixing this with a 75mm base and my shaft modifications.

Razor Guillotine

Hi, I printed one of these about a month or two ago and the blade is finally starting to wear out. What is the intended blade replacement disassembly method? Should I just pop the stops off and remove the blade holder? The stops are a press fit and if I remove them like this a few times they will not hold the spring loaded blade holder securely any more. I suppose if they get loose I could just print new stops, but I wasn't sure if that was the intent.

Modify yours to work like this:

Razor Guillotine

You will see that one end of the blade holder has a single hole in it. Use the shank of a 1/16 drill to push the old blade out of the holder.Alternatively you could use a thin length of piano wire to do the same thing. I saw the stops as a sacrificial part, just print a few sets of new ones and use these each time you need to change the blade. Hope this helps.

Blade removal was self explanatory, it was the stops I wasn't sure about. I'll print a few spares for now, but I'm going to redesign the posts to be partially threaded so I can use a knurled knob instead of the stops. Thanks for the response.

What did Spring and Inside use?
I want to know the Part List (BOM).

I do not have a BOM for this. The springs were found at a local hardware store in Australia so no point in giving you that part #.You will need to print it install the rods as per the instructions in the Thing Details. Then take it to where ever you purchase springs and try them. Sorry I can not be of more help but every country has different sizes and suppliers.

I had a couple built over the weekend. What razor blades did you use? I was looking on the McMaster website for blades but they don't show dimensions for the back side of the blades that fit into the slot on the top piece. Was it a 3/4" x 1 5/8" blade? I guess the units don't matter. But I will be using 5/32" pins for the guides. Probably re-make the stop out of aluminum if it ends up breaking. Otherwise it's just what I was looking for and only used about $3 in plastic material.

Sorry about late reply I have been away. I purchased the blades in Australia, I have just come back from the states and and they are sold as scraper blades or single edge safety razor blades. If you print the stops at 100% with 4-5 perimeters you can drill or file them to suit.
Hope this helps.

I was looking for something like this to cut small lengths of shrink tubing. Wish it was in inches instead of metric. I like the 50mm base but like I said, we use inch system and would prefer that to metric. I imported your stl files into solidworks but they are only graphic files and can't be modified. Do you have .step or .iges files?

How would imperial make any difference? The hole for the tube is the maximum size you can make it and still be intrinsically safe, you set the end stop to give you distance so you can use an imperial rule to do that.
The shorter base does have measurements on it but to be honest most peoples printers can not reproduce them well, so I did not put them on the 50mm (2") base. If you need a rule on the base print one on your printer and stick it to the base!

Thank you, I need something like this desperately, and decided to check here before I designed one.

Hope it does what you need. I still can't believe it is so popular!

Made one I used m3x45mm maybe 40mm shoulder screws and press nuts on the base used washer in the spring holes and just 2 clicky pen springs. Thanks for making this

would you mind sharing the source files??

They are made in a program called Alibre if you can open them OK but most cad programs can not work with these files.

great little tool for cutting constant length things!!!

It still amazes me how many people are downloading this tool. Thank you for your comment.

Would´t it be much more comfortable when there where nut holes in the bottom site, so that you could use m4 screws?

If you use screws then the top part that holds the razor blade would not move up and down. You could use a shouldered stud but that would require custom manufacture, I was trying to keep it all as simple as possible so most people could source the parts and make it.

Comments deleted.

Hi, looks good, an could come in handy for us. Would also like to cut longer lengths (e.g. 4cm for blue silicone tubes for z couplers on Prusa i3) - do you have scad source files by any chance?

New file added, I have not done a test print but as it is only an extension on the side there should be no problems (famous last words). Hope this does what you wanted.

Thanks :-) will hopefully finally get round to making this soon!

No problem i will post it here as someone else may want this as well.

I have never figured out how scad works. This was drawn in Alibre. I did have one with a longer cutting platform but found the tube drooped too much and this made it hard to line up with the fence
I would be happy to amend drawing for you and send you an STL if that helps. Let me know the cutting length you would like.

If it's not too much trouble, one that goes up to 50mm would be great, thanks :-)

I love finding tools I didn't know I needed until I saw them.

I am making one. Please could you tell me how long the guide rods are.


This is not a question I can answer as it depends on the length of the springs that you end up using.
I placed my base on a table, put the springs in place, then added the blade holder with blade on top of them. Make sure the edge of the blade is just in the slot on the base, then measure the height from the table to the top of the blade holder, add the thickness of the end stop, this will give you the length of the guide rod, as you see from the picture I added a few mm to be sure. With a bit of care you could file these down, a few of the guys who have built these have used brass ros and that is very easy to work with. Not an elegant solution but the only one as every length will be different due to the spring length, do make sure that you use light weight springs.
Pleas post a pic when you have it finished.

Because you are using a razor blade as the cutting edge you need a way to load and unload the blade in a way that would not cut you. If you have printed it well the blade is a firm fit in the slot, Load the blade in the larger hole and then holding the blade holder push the blade in by pressing down on a table, Finish the seating of the blade by pushing it all the way home with a 2 mm piece of wire through the small hole/slot you just loaded it in. When you want to change the blade push the old blade out of the holder by using the 2 mm wire in the small hole on the opposite side of the holder. The hole in the fence should be the right size to take a 3 mm tap for the locking screw.
Please post when you have printed one.

hi. i just make one. The only thing I´m wondering what´s with the tiny holes on the blade holder´s sides? thanks . this tool is going to be usefull

Great idea! :) Keep up the good work