The PRBP is a derivative of the MBI ABP 1.0 and the Printable ABP. It can be printed and used to do continuous printing, to turn your bot into a desktop factory.

It features a 100mm x 100mm build platform and a tensioner, plus you get to keep your cool LED's and last but not least... all the pfierceness you'll ever need with it's awesome teeth!

I'd like to thank Twotimes aka Aaron Double of DoCo Design for helping me tweak and test this design while my bot was down. Contact him if you need 8mm tubing for the platform, or if you need a new Kysan extruder motor. Supplies are limited!

Gcode has been uploaded, this pops of prints with a pfierceness. You may need to edit the gcode depending on how you are set up.

**Update 4/07/11:I've revised the side's motor holes to slots, so you can adjust the gear mesh from roller to motor, this reduces gear slipping, strips and breaks. I added a file with just the new sides to save some plastic. Also, the files are half the size of the old ones...technology keeps making things smaller and smaller :) Deleted the old files to give thingiverse 3Mb of room back.

I'm also working on an extrusion catcher for this.

Happy printing and check back for updates.

Print the 4 nested prints.

Assemble pterodactyl side pieces. Some filing may be required for them to fit together nicely. Press in M3 nuts into all captive nut holes.

Take a MBI laser cut build platform and attach the sides to the platform with M3 screws.

Insert 20mm Kysan gear motor in motor mount and screw down with M2 screws.
(M2 screws don't come with the motor a good source is old Sony products if you have some laying around)

Insert Pfierce plate into pterodactyl mouth. Some pfiling may be required. Use M3x16 screws for pterodactyl eye to keep the plate in his mouth.

Insert a m3x4 screw in second hole in the top of the side that doesn't go all the way through. Take a small piece of silicone tubing and put it over the head, then pie cut the tubing into sections. Wallah, you now have a filament cleaner that won't scrape Teflon coated nozzles.

Put heated build platform and heat spreader on top and attach with counter sunk screws.

Print belt pdf file at proper scale on 8.5x11 paper. Cut out pattern and use to cut .005 thick kapton belt. Tip: you may want to use your paper pattern on the platform first to see if everything is working, before you ruin the kapton.

Cut 8mm 0D x 100mm silicone tubing twice and put over two shaft. Use some glue to keep it from slipping around the drive shaft.

Press bushing into belt tensioner blocks (the small triangular pieces)

Put bushings on two 3mm shafts and press into side pieces, front and back.

Insert tensioning rod through middle slot of sides. Use triangular tension blocks to hold in place. Don't screw it down just yet.

Put a gear on motor shaft and front roller shaft. You may need to glue them on if they slip...also if they skip on you try printing them .02mm bigger.

Insert belt through and around pull tight and tape then set tension on middle roller. It might take a few tries to get it just right.

You may also want to use shaft collars on the ends of the shafts to keep them from walking around.

Update your skeinforge profiles with the new gcode.

Center the platform and try to print a newly "skeined" 20mm test box.

After you successfully master one print. Then copy the code from right after were the start code ends and onward. Go to the end of the g code and paste. You should now have two sets of 20mm g-code...then try to print two consecutive prints.

You now have an automated printing powerhouse!

These instructions are still a work in progress.