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Analog Clock

by code4food, published

Analog Clock by code4food Jan 13, 2013
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Analog Clock by code4food is licensed under the Creative Commons - Attribution license.

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This is a derivative of Achim's "Clock4". This simple clock consists of several printed parts now: a stand, an outer ring, the face, and the hands (hour and minute only at this time). The movement is an inexpensive, but wonderfully rugged clock movement (made in the USA!) that I bought at Hobby Lobby for $7 and some change. When I saw Achim's original design, I liked it, and decided to print it. I think it will be nice to design several faces for it, so that the clock could be used as a seasonal piece, or relevant to a specal time of year or event. I may be adding more faces and outer rings, so stay tuned!


Instructions are "easy-peasy":

1.) Go get a clock movement. A standard 3/8" clock movement will work, and will cost less than $8 at Hobby Lobby or Michael's. They come with hands, and are probably going to be gold colored - you can use them if you want to, but they don't blend with the "printed" style. I used the gold clock hands for reference, and then discarded them. There will also be a wall hanging bracket that comes with the movement. If you want to mount this on the wall, you will need to modify the stand to allow for that.

2.) Print!

3.) Assembly instructions: the stand has three primary functions: one, it allows the clock to stand (surprising!). Second, it has a mounting hole in it for the movement (mounts from the back of the stand). Third, it has a clip at the bottom that holds the outer ring.

<strong>a.) Mount the movement.</strong> In the 70's televsion show, "Kung Fu", the Chinese Master would say things like, "There is an order to the Universe, Grasshopper."  This is no different. You can follow the instructions on the back of the clock movement box, and change the instructions accordingly, but the "order of the Universe" for this clock goes like this: place the black rubber washer (if your movement came with it) onto the movement itself. Then insert the movement's hand shaft, from the back of the stand, into the mounting hole. Next, push the outer ring into the stand's holding clip (see the picture of the clock). <i>Almost done!</i> Now place the face onto the hand shaft. You may have to wiggle things around a  bit to get it to fit inside the outer ring, but you will get there. Then place the gold washer onto the hand shaft so that it rests against the clock face (again, see picture), and tighten the gold washer onto the hand shaft. It only needs to be a little more than finger tight - a good pair of pliers will help make the final turn or two. 

b.)Add the hands. The shorter of the two hands is the hour hand, so put that on first. You will see that only fits securely onto one of the hand shaft "shafts". Press it down a bit to make sure there is plenty of clearance between it and the minute hand, which you will add next. Now press the minute hand onto the hand shaft. The minute hand shaft is the smaller diameter shaft above the hour hand shaft. You will need to push down a little harder to get it onto the minute hand shaft since tolerances are a bit tighter here. Also, if you look, the minute hand shaft is "squared" off on two sides (magnifying glass works wonders here), which is how they all come. It is done that way to make a distinction between the hour and minute hand. Anyway, get that bad boy onto the shaft, and adjust as necessary. You want it to be pointing straight out, not pointing down or up (looks silly that way).

c.) Put the AA sized battery in, and set the time. Voila! You have a clock that you printed, and can modify to give as gifts, show off with (I like that one the best), or simply keep around the dojo to tell the time.

Thanks, and happy printing!

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Hands STL is non functional. It just prints a tiny 4 layer circle.

I ran the clockhands.stl file this morning, and it printed without a problem. I used accelerated speed, with 10% in-fill and .27 layer height. Extruder temp was set to 230 degrees.

I also looked at the gcode that ReplicatorG produced with a gcode viewer, and the hands were fully formed. If you are attempting to print the hands with other objects in ReplicatorG, I would suggest not doing that. I have found that ReplicatorG does not handle multiple objects well when slicing them. I would print the parts seperately, or use the newest version of Makerware. However, you will need to update your Makerbot's firmware before doing that.

Good Luck

FWIW, this was on a Printrbot LC in PLA, using Slic3r 0.9.9.