OpenRC 1:10 4WD Truggy Concept RC Car

by barspin, published

OpenRC 1:10 4WD Truggy Concept RC Car by barspin Jan 14, 2013

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Please consider supporting me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/DanielNoree

Subscribe to my YouTube channel so you don´t miss out on the latest of my projects! - https://www.youtube.com/user/DanielNoree2

Awarded a GrabCAD Golden Gear for "Top Open Engineering Project 2013"!
This an ongoing project of creating a free for all Open Source RC car that can be printed (to a certain extent of course) at your personal FDM printer at home!
I have tried to keep the design basic for easy modification for others in their favourite CAD software
Also, it's designed for FDM 3D printing.
This is really a proof of concept and i´m very pleased with the result even if there is some work left to be done!

CVD driveshafts available here: http://www.conrad.com/ce/en/product/231121/?insert=62&insertNoDeeplink&productname=Spare-part-Reely-V23581L-CVD-drive-shaft-166-mm

Below is a list of the electronics i use in my Truggy:

Motor and ESC: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__25138__Turnigy_TrackStar_Waterproof_1_10_Brushless_Power_System_4000KV_80A.html
Battery: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__10301__Turnigy_4000mAh_2S_40C_Lipo_Pack.html
Servo: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__8776__BMS_620MG_High_Torque_Servo_Metal_Gear_9_1kg_15sec_50g.html

You will also need a Radio and Receiver of your choice.

Introduction video: http://youtu.be/5mPUtSrMoLw
Test drive video: http://youtu.be/uBReuPsthDw

Like my FaceBook page - https://www.facebook.com/Daniel-Nor%C3%A9e-576194949211855/
Subscribe to my YouTube channel - https://www.youtube.com/user/DanielNoree2

INSTAGRAM https://www.instagram.com/danielnoree/
TWITTER https://twitter.com/DanielNoree
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GOOGLE+ OPENRC COMMUNITY https://plus.google.com/communities/112745535856143176146
FACEBOOK OPENRC GROUP https://www.facebook.com/groups/1111886228841596/


Additional parts needed:
Electronics (Check here for suggestions on suitable electronics: https://groups.google.com/forum/?hl=en

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Ow snap, almost done printing the most parts of the car, and creating my hardware shopping list, but where can i find the CVD shafts ?
links to conrad are dead, and i cannot seem to find any specs (ali is loaded with cvd's ) but i cannot find the specs anywhere.

Pez Edition OpenR/C Truggy (Final Release V1.1)

Hmm but these are us parts, im not in the US either :( .
i need to reprint everything i assume ?

Not everything. All parts are easy to find on ebay and aliexpress. :)

can you define not everything ? iḿ missing the construction manual in this design also, is that the same as the original ?

2 days ago - Modified 2 days ago
Saccco - in reply to dysan

I'm figuring this also. It's assembled as the original one. If you go with the printed center diffs, then you only need to print the towers, the front and rear arms and everything for the steering. There is a make of the PEZ edition its listed here also, check it for clues. And read the comments under the PEZ ed. By the arms you must know how thick the shocks are.
I will print the mods because of the CVDs and the smaller turn.

PS.: BTW there are PDFs in the files section, at the bottom.

dose anyone know a car I can use as a donor car (for parts)

2 days ago - Modified 2 days ago
Saccco - in reply to Foster_62

Why don't you get the parts one-by-one?

Get the parts separate. ;)

Hi, are there any updated PDFs? i am looking for the name of the components, because i want to print the front end first, and the manual doesn't state the name of the printed parts.

Is wear and tare not a concern for the differentials?

I printed the module m=0.7

Aug 23, 2017 - Modified Aug 23, 2017

Does anyone know what the module of the gears are? :)

Amazing Design!

I ordered all parts today. I was Lucky its Banggood Sale and i got up to 11% on almost every part:


Thank you so much!

I really love this damn Design!

I ordered all parts today. I was Lucky its Banggood Sale and i got up to 11% on almost every part:


Thank you so much!

Hi what tires should i buy for this as i have printed the rims but wont to buy the tires but dont no the size i need

I'm trying to print the right and left shields but the logo won't show up when I slice it, any ideas on how to fix this?

Looks like it'll slice fine.. You don't happen to have the right side one too do you?

Could u make a video on how to put the sterring together as I am finding it hard

What settings did you use for the tire.

how big of a bed it needs to be to print the rc? my printers XYZ is 120mm

The biggest part is the Chassie plates at 179mm I'm afraid.

anyone ever find any axles to use with this in the US

Pez Edition OpenR/C Truggy (Final Release V1.1)

what size print bed was used to make this?

I found the coin: SST part 09304 Differential Center complete 1/10 RC Buggy Car Truck spare parts
But is larger than the differential lower and upper parts
Could you provide me with the file of these two pieces so that I can put them in format with the software freecad or to provide me the parts rectified

Supplier's address by ebay hobbywin

merci et cordialement

Nice this looks like a rc10 T3 my favorite truggy ever.

To all looking for cheaper options then the CVD driveshafts go to local hobby shop with your car and they will hook you up with plastic version most likely from taxxas or team AE or even HPI there's a ton of different variants with different wheel hub connections. If its the same CVD from the T3 then you can order stock ones apt cheaper. And then once you drive the RC car for a day or two you will understand why he recommends the CVD. Trust me they're on all the cars I've ever touched.

Hello, Can you please send me a link where to buy Ball Joint? I do not know which one to choose

These work great:

Team C Racing T02060 4.8mm x 11.35mm Ball Stud https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HWQEO3O/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_3ZDlzb2A4E684

I'm waiting on delivery for these. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=372782&gclid=CKzvtIDZvtMCFQeNGwodFmcE7w
not exactly sure if they'll be suitable. fingers crossed.

THX you :)

Don't bother with them. They were too small. Very little in spec with all the different ball joints out there which makes it a bit tricky trying to find something that fits. Any help from anyone who has successfully sourced some would be great.

Hola, primero que todo tremendo proyecto, segundo pido vuestra ayuda ya que este sera mi primer RC,
Alguien me puede facilitarlos link para comprar el RC, servo, motor, batería, ETC.
El fichero de las instrucciones no existe, alguien me lo podría compartir por favor?

desde ya muchas gracias y se ve genial, felicitaciones

About how much filament does this thing eat up?

Apr 3, 2017 - Modified Apr 3, 2017
Murix7 - in reply to hackentosher

+- 390m (1.75mm filament)

A lot. I have only printed the chassis and the central diff case, it has used up .3kg/a few bucks.

Hi, I can't find all the pins (2x32, 3x56).
Where did you find them ?
Do you think I can use "piano wire" in 2 and 3 mm ?

Like this : https://www.amazon.fr/CORDE-A-PIANO-ACIER-D-2-0MM/dp/B00BO86P56/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1489066795&sr=1-2&keywords=corde+a+piano

Thanks !

It's also my issue; you had find them?

May 17, 2017 - Modified May 17, 2017
Murix7 - in reply to glimpse79

I used steel bars and then cut it, for example I buy 3mm bar from:
and then cut it to 56mm pieces

No, sorry...

how fast is the one in the video? 60km

I would think so, it says 110-120mm. I will be testing these ones, I'll let you know.

Didi it work? i´d order them, if you give me a go :-)

I haven't field tested them yet but they seem fine.

They won't work. The shaft on the tire end isn't long enough. I'm attempting to figure out a way to modify the parts to use them..

The build instructions link is broken. Please advice

Just ordered a bunch of tid bits to get this going. Anyone print this in PETg? Going to try and use the all-metal drive train...

One question... Any alternative for drive shafts?
The URL to the drive shaft too expensive... I search on aliexpress, ebay, but im not sure that compatible drive shafts

If you use parts from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:162810 you can use cheap axels from ebay.

OpenRC almost all metal rugged driveline

Thanks for reply!!

But... you need change the "original" Wishbone and central diff Case??

This is only for the centrals axels, or also for the four drive shaft? (2 Back + 2 Front)


The length of these HSP driveshafts is a bit different, so at least you need to use the modified Wishbones and Turnbuckles. Rest is optional but I always found the printable diff's a bit to fragile.

I find that http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2021996

No modification of original wishbones necesary

Modified files for improved OpenRC Truggy printed parts performance
Feb 12, 2017 - Modified Feb 12, 2017


And thanks!! i start print this car today :D

What power you recommend for motor? i like speed ;D

Hey guys,
could you please suggest suitable tires for this car? I would like some that will fit on thing's wheels. Unfortunetely many times suggested "Losi 320S Zombie Max" are most probably not available any more :-(

Many thanks in advance!

Comments deleted.
Jan 5, 2017 - Modified Jan 5, 2017

Has anyone printed it thought of printing this at 200%?

It won't work as the holes will be to large for the hardware.

Comments deleted.

Got to ask after a failed purchase, what sized tyres do I need?

I purchased these and they are pretty good

I just needed to print a 3mm ring that went over the front of the tire and the rim to act like a bead lock.

I am not finished yet, so I have not driven it yet.

what screw would you need to connect the parts can anyone make a screw list. thanks in advance

what screw would you need to connect the parts can anyone make a screw list. thanks in advance

Comments deleted.

Do you print this in ABS or PLA?

i would recommend abs as it is stronger

Sep 18, 2016 - Modified Sep 18, 2016

Hello Barspin,

First, thanks for your work! This project its amazing! :)
I'm trying to find the ball joints, but I only find things like:


It is correct? I read the manuals and its a bit different.
Thanks you in advance

what is the top speed?

Depending the motor KV factor you must have more torque or more maximum speed.

Comments deleted.


Es genial el diseño pero hay piezas que no encajan en otras probe con versiones antiguas y pasa igual. Tambien hay ficheros que en las instrucciones salen y los ficheros no existen. Por favor pido una revision de ficheros.

Que ficheros no encuentras?

ok this might sound a bit silly but does anyone here think this could be made to work with a castle creations mamba monster 2 cause I actually have one sitting around that needs a frame, also, could the design work with two battery trays to accommodate two 3s lipos traxxas revo style.

any links for the pins I cant find the m2x32(mabey m2x36) I looked on a few websites I cant find them...

Hi i use Carpenter's nails 1,8mm tick. it works great.

Dear Mr. barspin.

I try to make this awesome car! but I need help now..
I think there are no stl files for "Wishbone Pin holder" and "Shock spacer" (these are for Front Assembly part).
"Turn buckle Spacer" resemble with "Shock spacer" , are they same things?
I appreciate for your effort.

If anybody who knows about this is there, please help me! Thank you!! : D

Did you found this Parts? i missed these parts too

vote for the best slice
1) cura
2) slic3r
3) simplify3d
4) any suggestion???

Obviously S3D.

Depends on the printer, I have a tinyboy (PLA) and a Da Vinci 1.0A. both flashed to repetier firmware and the tinyboy gets better results with Slicer and the Da Vinci is best with Cura.. I tried simplify3d and I tent to use it for specific things such as anything with overhangs that are printed without support or anything vase like (with vase mode) everything else Cura. :)

what kind of shocks did you use?

Jun 22, 2016 - Modified Jun 22, 2016

does it work, when I resize everything to 1:20?

I´m looking for a little "grasshopper" :-)


No it won't. None of the hardware would fit.

I do not have a social network on Thingiverse but if I put pictures I do so gladly.

Your RC car is very well done and interessant. Thank you for your work
I have a Prusia i3 Hephestos. I print in PLA with a fill rate of 30%.
But for the chassie-plates, gears and other parts what is your filling rate?
Yours sincerely
Maire Daniel

Thanke you very much for the nice comments, it means alot!

Hmm, it was such a long time ago but i think i printed the chassis at 50% infill and gears somwhere between 50-100% (depending on material). Most other parts are 20-35%. Good luck and don´t forget to share some pics of you progress on your favourite social network!

What kind of Shock Absorber do you use? Give a link please.

Great Design and such a great idea. What kind of hardware is needed? Obviously electronics, but what would i need regarding the screws, nuts, washers, bearings, etc. Thank you

Comments deleted.

It is so good,THX for your share.
but.......could you share the .igs or .step resourse with me?
E-mail:[email protected]

If you look at the files here on TV there is a STEP file of the assembly available for download.

Apr 1, 2016 - Modified Apr 3, 2016

Unfortunately I attempted a resolution of driveshaft problems for the US and ran into another problem. The LOSA2960 axels I modified the suspension for is a no go. The ball on the end of the dogbone is too big. Anyone have any other sources or suggestions? Id love to build this car.

I have my entire rc car printed and assembled. EXCEPT, I cant find the STL file for the shock spacer... are they the same as the turnbuckle spacer?

Also I revised the sides and added a slot for nuts. It draws the sides down tighter strengthening the frame.

I also found some CVD's on Ebay for a bit cheaper than on your parts list, but no one will measure them (they are lazy sellers on ebay)

Feb 12, 2017 - Modified Feb 12, 2017
nitrosito - in reply to agilliam

you can post the CVD´s?

you can post the CVD´s?

conrad parts, its too expensive, maybe we can find this part or a similar compatible part on aliexpress or ebay

I see this was printed on a rep 1 or designed for a rep 1. I have a FFCP which is technically a rep2, however when in replicatorg it shows that the frame pieces are too wide for it by 1mm on each side. is this normal for replicatorg to show that? Maybe wrong parameters?

Do you use metal parts for your drive train? or all ABS. The abs would break for drive train components right?

hi I started this fantastic project ... but I have doubts to ask. can print all of PLA also the differential gear? They will be resistant to the temperatures generated by the speed of a brushless motor? sorry for my English are Italian.

Lascia stare il pla per il differenziale durerà 10 minuti anche meno :) . Devi farlo almeno in abs ma sarebbe meglio in nylon

finalmente un'italiano... sto valutando se acquistare direttamente i differenziali in metallo o prendere 1 kg di nylon per stamparmi gli ingranaggi tu cosa mi consigli @eldiablo?

Devi valutare tu, anch'io ero tentato di comprarli in metallo ma poi ho utilizzato il nylon e ora va benissimo. Il problema del differenziale in metallo sta nel fatto che poi devi rimediare in metallo anche i pignoni, gli assi centrali e i "bicchierini" per i semiasse. Ho paura che un pezzo in metallo che trasferisce una forza ad un elemento in abs prima o poi distrugga quest'ultimo.

se mi dici che in nylon vanno bene compro quello... è difficile da stampare? io ho un nozzle da 04 è troppo grande? ...scusami per le domande ma vorrei essere sicuro che la mia configurazione riesce a stamparlo ho una prusa i3

Anche io ho una prusa e l'ugello da 04 :). Se non hai mai stampato con il nylon all'inizio c'è un po' da smadonnare come per tutti i materiali nuovi. Il problema del nylon è soprattutto l'adesione al piano.
Per consigli sulla stampa con il nylon e soprattutto quale comprare vedi sui i vari forum sono pieni di "dritte"

I have started printing this in eSun PLA+ as it is very durable compared to normal PLA. As for wear, barspin stated below "I have added stainless steel washers on the in- and outside of the differential housing." Hope this helps. Good luck with your model.

Thanks for the answer ... where I can see how to place the washers on the in- and outside of the differential housing? ...and their size? There is a picture or a data sheet?

Mar 10, 2016 - Modified Mar 10, 2016

It seems you have missed the new version shock spacer. The prior versions don't look anything like the illustration.

Also, which axles did you use? I see some axles mentioned in the google+ group but they all seem to require modification.

I did end up finding the axles you used, but they are expensive and hard to source in the US. I got some other axles cheaply from another source and will be working on some modifications to make them work. I will post the remix if I can get everything working.

Hey what tires do you use in the red/white car in the thumbnails? I looked through the comments for someone else asking the same question but I didn't see the answer.

Losi 320S Zombie Max Tire with Foam LOSB7213

What motor/esc battery is recommend?

I'd say a hobby grade rc Car eletronics set...

Hello I would like to know if you know a model of differential compatible metal? Because my axle shaft is kinked at the level of the pinion. Thank you ...

The car is fantastic !!!! :)
where can I buy electronic parts needed ? the group google + I can not find info sorry thanks

hobbyking is cheap for 10th scale electronics. use the international warehouse for a bigger and cheaper selection. i buy 90% of my everything from them. hope this helps you.

are all the gears holding up?have you changed over anything to metal due to breakage? i want to print it but if i need to get some parts its ok to. great job! looks like alot of fun :)

I have added stainless steel washers on the in- and outside of the differential housing.

Where did you get the body cover from?

The body is from a HPI Firestorm car. I got it from Ebay.

think it may be turnigy truggy body from hobby king. not 100% but any clear 10th scale ebay or any hobby shop will have one. it will fit.

Amazing Project Very rewarding. I am making my own 3-D printed car with drill motors.


very beautifull job... I'm impressioned....

I will buy a printer and the one i've seen, as a 200200200 build space.
Is it enough to do the job or not ?
Thks in advance.

Can you tell me where I can get the part on the steering servo (which is connected to the servo_arm)?
And where I can find the Spoiler and the parts?

Nearly done with the print - very nice project ;)

The "servo arm" is only a "dummy part" used in the assembly. You can pull it from the STEP file of the assembly, not sure how it will fit though. The wing was only a test and i didn´t think it worked out very well and removed it. Sorry.

I realize that anyone including the OP have pretty much given up on replying, but does anyone know where you can get the bearings???? Or what size or anything??

Yeh, sorry for the lack of replies, my bad! =(

Anyway, you can get a bearings kit for the Truggy att "FastDeeyBearings": http://www.fasteddybearings.com/openrc-truggy-sealed-bearing-kit/

hellos I am about to print this car I wanted to know what are the files to be printed multiple times?

There are two "CSV" text files in the download section, one for printed parts and one for sourced parts, have look.

I cannot see the extra parts list could you please help

There are two "CSV" text files in the download section, one for printed parts and one for sourced parts, have look.

Hi Daniel Norée,

I was looking at the OpenRC Project website and I wanted to read more about the Basics of RC control. But There seems to be no information on there. Must I be logged in to read more?

I tried registering but was unable to.

Thanks. Best Regards.


Hello Leo_Aguiar

The webiste is not managed by me so i´m afraid i can´t help you with that. Ask in the G+ Community, i´m sure somebody there will have the answers to your questions!

Nice car, includes most the parts need, really like it, and also like to the join the openrcproject, but no couldn't get the passcode, please help.

You need to ask in the G+ OpenRC Community since i´m not involved in openrcproject.com

Hello, i have already start printing some part but i would like to do some modification to this Rc car. I want to do some modification beacause i already have some tire and other stuff like that. Is it possible to have the part fil ?

There´s a STEP file of the assembly in the download section.

I will be making this at some point for sure! Will have to sort out non-printable parts needed first

There are two "CSV" text files in the download section, one for printed parts and one for sourced parts, have look.

With the given set of electronics, how long will a full battery charge last?

do you have a list of non printable parts?

There are two "CSV" text files in the download section, one for printed parts and one for sourced parts, have look.

Please HELP. im having trouble with fitting the square hole from the axle shaft to the gear! I have a UM1 any successful settings

Can anyone tell me where to get the correct length drive shafts from or what car they are from.
Many Thanks....

Comments deleted.

I am asking this for the people that have printed this. How many hours did you put into it. Man hours and print time. Estimations will work.

Now it's time for me to start printing one of these. :-D is this the latest files?

Awesome news! Yes they are the latest files. Email me if have any questions! (or ask them in the Google+ Community)

Is there someone with sources or at least model numbers for the purchased components? I can't seem to find that in the zip.

Grease should be applied in some parts?

What is the total weight of the 3D printied Parts?

Comments deleted.
Mar 16, 2015 - Modified Mar 16, 2015


just wondering how much this project will cost overall? (Excluding 3D printer and 3D printing materials)

Many thanks

A lot with electronic...

Comments deleted.

what size ball connectors should we use?

Comments deleted.

Hi, very nice proyect, i have a little question, how much fill density you used to print the rc components?, Thanks.

i printed the normal parts on 12 procent and the delicate (strong parts) on 25 procent.
thickness line 0.8
layer thickness on 0.12
top and bottom thickness also on 0.8
224°c with pla (strong melt)

tires possible printable with ninjaflex (superstrong and flexible)

i have a ultimaker (1, Original, no heated bed) and using CURA software.

greetz Jan

i printed the normal parts on 12 procent and the delicate (strong parts) on 25 procent.
thickness line 0.8
layer thickness on 0.12
top and bottom thickness also on 0.8
224°c with pla (strong melt)

tires possible printable with ninjaflex (superstrong and flexible)

i have a ultimaker (1, Original, no heated bed) and using CURA software.

greetz Jan

Grease should be applied in some parts?

For larger parts I use 20-30% infill and for smaller parts like gears, axleshafts etc i use 100% infill.

you should make a set so you can print all pieces at once.
if not I can if you want.

that would be great.

Where can I find someone to print a set of front and rear grills for a 1/18th scale model at a fair price? I have the patterns in igs and prt and stp formats. James

i can print 20cm x 20cm x 20cm.
i will help you, i can print OBJ, STL, but normaly the file can be encoded to stl or obj.

if it is a small object, i do it for free, just the transport, because i live in Belguim.

email: [email protected]

Greetz Jan

The link in your instructions doesn't work. Is there a Material build sheet that shows where you purchased each part? I'm having a hard time finding some of the Rods and Screws.

Thanks! This thing is awesome!

Does anyone have a USA source for the 118mm CVD drive shafts?

Comments deleted.

starting mine right now

how many Filament i should use to make this done ?? can i print this all PLA ?

i think 3/4 spool, and yes, all PLA
print smalest gears very fine layer thickness 0.07 or 0.1

greetz Jan

thank for reply :)

Dec 5, 2014 - Modified Dec 5, 2014

sign me up please.
sincerely, Jonathan Schaffer

This is one of the coolest "open" projects I've ever seen!!! Way to go!

A propos, I can't fond the source cad files for modification? Where can I find those? I would of guessed they would be on github , but no avail. openrcproject.com seems to be down, guess they are there?


If your using TopSolid 7 i can email them to you (be warned though, it´s a mess) but if not you need to settle for the STEP file of the assembly. Sorry.

hahaha... nevermind... At the moment also stuck to propriatary cad formats (pro/e), working on my freecad skills to truly "open" my designs... I've got no topsolid licence... so thanks for the offer anyway! Keep up the awsome work!

I will make an effort in trying out more free CAD alternatives next year but for a project like this it´s just alot more easier to use something your used to. Atleast for now... =)
Thanks for the feedback!

Yeah.. I know the feeling.... I want to be able to draw in freecad, but pro /e is like a second language to me... Guess it's the same with you & topsolid (used it once for cam) ....

This is absolutely amazing. I am going to race this at my local hobby shop.

if i bring this files to a 3d print shop wil i need to tell them sizes? or they can just know it from the files?

Yes. They should just print the files with no scaling. Need to finish mine. I have everything printing just need electronics :)

For now there are quite a lot .stl's to download, which of these i should print, and how much of each? I'm getting confused about it, or i just don't see an instruction

Very nice work, I'm in the process of printing all the parts and ordering the required parts. Everything working great so far. I noticed on the digital design you have a rear spoiler with supports and some nice hold downs for the body. Do you have the .stl files or do you know where I could find them? Thanks and I'll be sure to post pictures when I'm finished.

NICE!! I am going to build this one! What is the best material for the gears? PLA,ABS or nylon?

Has anyone made a chassis that can fit a makerbot replicator 2?

I designed it to fit on a Replicator 1 so it will fit on your Replicator 2 without problems since it has an even bigger build platform than the Replicator 1. =)

My Makerbot Rep 2 would hit the endstop on the far side, causing it to think it was somewhere else. This caused the entire thing to get shifted. I'm printing this whole car at 95% and its coming together great so far

Any Info on your slicer settings? Infill %, Number of Shells, etc....?

Any information for printing on smaller beds? As it stands I am unable to print the front and rear top plates. Any help would be nice. Thanks.

Not sure if you had seen the update but the following thingi was made by a member that has a build plate of 150x150. Hopefully this helps
Update 2013-08-30: KENisFIS designed new chassis and sideplates to fit on smaller buildplates! Download them here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:131262http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

OpenRC 4WD Truggy Chassis and Sides to fit smaller print beds

create some way so we can use nitro engines with this

My you make it clear for me which files should be printed? I see some updated files in your things files

Same here, I'm itching to get started, so I'm printing stuff that doesn't appear in the Update file, just in case. Please let us know :)

Started my Truggy project last night...going to take some time with this build. Thanks for this totally rad RC car, so much cooler than a printed firearm! More updates on my build soon!

Not sure why but the Center_Diff_Casing_Plate.A.0.stl printed very funky...the back part of the bigger piece on the plate did not print properly. The the big hole and upper hole were carried through and around the corner...it printed support all the way around. I will post pics very soon.
Sliced with Skeinforge (50) in Makerware. 0.20mm 75% infill, support yes, no raft.

could you finish your build?
think about to print one too.

Yo! Got locked outta my Thingiverse/MB account due to a lost PW, the reset process took awhile.
Anyways, I will be resuming my build in about a week as I just heard back on the "small print bed" chassis etc.

I suggest slowing your speed/feed rates way down for printing the gears. Mine keep flying off the bed. Probably going to need bed solution for printing the gears as well (ABS/Acetone mix).
Most everything else printed without issues.

Hey! Apologies for not replying sooner, I had a string of hardware failures and have not been able to get back on Thingiverse until just recently.
I am chugging along with my build. I got the Center Diff Casing to print smoothly. The one hardest thing for me to print is the gears, getting the speed just right has been a challenge. Other than that, I am just contemplating the Top/Bottom Decks and Chassis plates, they are a tad bigger than my printer will allow. There is another version of the decks/plates that are 2-piece and allow for printing on smaller beds. I will be updating my build soon and making a thread for it on the Open RC Google groups.

nice to read you .. waiting for new print News :-)
gears are not simple ;-)

Mostly...still have yet to print the main body parts as they are bigger than my print bed. There is a multi-piece version of the parts I need but have not attempted that one yet as the author noticed some alignment issues.
Also, the C.Dif gears are proving to be difficult. I suggest printing multiple pieces of each part to help with cooling and quality when printing smaller objects etc.

Did you ever get to printing the big body pieces?

Awesome, looking forward to pictures! =)

could i have the cad file for the bevel gear please??
btw this thing is awesome

Check downloads for the bevel gear.

so if you decide to laser cut the chassis plate how do you get the wedge effect in there where its thicker then tapers down?? just curious is there a add in part or different casing?

You wouldn't download a car

Hi, great work! I have a question, I'm building a camera rig/dolly with some rc components, and I'm planing on using a motor from a drifting rc car. So I was wondering what gear reduction are you using? Also are all of your gearing parts printed or do you use a store bought gear for the primary motor reduction(the one mounted on the motor)?

A list and part number for the electronics would be great i click on the google community and it takes me to a new community not related to this. Please help me.

Any chance you can update the link for electronics suggestions? That one isn't getting me very far. :-)

Sorry, not at home atm. Check to Google + Community, there is the latest list (not posted by me) and those parts are the ones I have ordered.

Outstanding design!


Is the BOM still the same as before, and is there any opensource or free software to open up stp files for figuring out the BOM?

Just started getting into building a prusa i3 about a month ago. Seems like i have sourced everything but the the steppers and the control board. I ran across this thingi and my son's jaw dropped when he saw it, he is 6. We have been talking about buying an rc car or quadcopter. Now that the printer is almost done we can do both on a budget. Will def post my experience on the build and keep the community informed. Thanks for the design.

Hi Hedchange!

Thanks for the comments. I hope you build a car of your own and share your progress and comments with the rest of us on the Google+ community!
Let me know if there are any questions, i'm here to help. =)

/Daniel Norée

can you split the wishbones into to 2 files, left and right as the 4 parts want fit my i3 plate size.


Thats cool I got it. I plowed into Blender( finally I have had it for about a year) I figured out enough to delete the right side pair. Thanks again for doing this. It is starting to look good. Really awesome. Love too see this,


Ben Linus,
http://www.nitrotek.nl/Go To My Link

Sounds awesome Ben! Looking forward to seeing your finished car. I have finally started working in mine again! =)

Is it possible to separate Wishbone_Plate.A.
It doesn't feet on my Prusa.
Thank you.

Thank you, looks great. Will try to finish it ASAP.

Amazing work! I love seeing things like this because it show the possibilities of at-home 3D printers, even if some parts are proof-of-concept.

I am currently running a slightly modified prusa and when I tried to print the chassis plates, they ended up being to big for my print bed. I must not be the only one encountering this problem. I was wondering if it would be possibly to split the bottom plate up into four? I would do it myself but I don't currently have the cash to drop on a Netfabb license and I would imagine that some things would need to be altered for the 4 plates to maintain strength. Maybe you could upload a template for a bottom piece for those who have access to a laser cutter or want to hand cut the bottom.

I am currently printing out the other pieces and I am very excited to drive it around when I finish. Again, props on the design!

Thanks Tommydag for the positive feedback! That´s what makes it all worth it!
About splitting the bottom, do you just want it split in the middle? I can do that for you, i´m not sure what it will do to the chassie in terms of stability though... Let me know.

A split down the middle would work but now that I have thought it over some more, I think there would be structural problems. I know the chassis plates would be too small for anyone running a cupcake as well as myself, so I was wondering if you could provide a simple 2d template for the bottom so that it could be cut by hand or laser cutter.

Thanks for the quick rely!


I know the problem as i also have a TOM.

Anyway, i have a added a dwg as requested. Let me know if there are any problems or questions.

Thanks, I can't wait for the printing to finish!

Hi barspin!

A short update: I managed to print most of it with slic3r. Working with 0.8 perimeter thickness and three perimeters is basically the key factor for nices looking parts. I netfabbed the pieces before printing.

The chassis printed successfully. My normal M3 screws dont fit into the lower shield, my caliper says their diameter is 2mm but the hole on the plate is 3mm. Did you use self-cutting screws? I would prefer self-cutting screws over normal m3. They form a better connection.

The center diff is now printing (4 hours) and is looking fine so far.

PS: I would recommend to replace the shockspacers with aluminum parts. If've seen shocks including those spacers.

Hi barspin!

Incredibly inspiring work you have done indeed I must say! I've been thinking about 3D printers for couple of months now and the more I have got information the less I have slept at nights, but now I can't sleep at all! :D

My short scope dream is to build a 1:28 awd racer similar to the Kyosho mini-z. I already have the drive train as I have been trying to make the car with material removing methods but due to lack of decent machinery, progress has been somewhat slow :D

In this scale it might be almost possible to build also the bodies if one could get access to such cad data or had an eye for car design :)

Hmm, I just might be able to get an Ultimaker before the spring if I "forget" my wife's birthday present! Oh boy it's gonna be a long winter! :D



Thanks for the nice comment! I have two 3D Printers and they are the coolest thing i have ever bought! =)

I´m having two bodies scanned and reworked. 1 Truggy body and one Touring Car body. Both 1:10 scale. =)

Hay there, So I have made one. Now I can see that the differentials made of plastic won't hold up to the kind of driving I want to do. I have got a set of LOSI T-Ten dfferential housings. They will work but the bearing are wrong. The side bearings are 12 x 18 x 4 and the input shaft bearing are 5X11X4. The housing that you have made is almost there. I am very much beginner using a CAD. Also you have the original files. I was wondering if you could mod the dif housing so that it will fit the new bearing? The center diff uses that same diff assmebly just with different connectors. So the center need updating as well. I hope you can if not I will try.

Hi, thanks for uploading the picture it´s inspiring! =)

Regarding your requested mod´s i will do them but i would like a favour in return if it´s ok. It would be awesome if you could post a some info on those parts and where to source them over at Google+: https://plus.google.com/u/0/communities/112745535856143176146https://plus.google.com/u/0/co...

Also, do you drive axles fit the current setup? If so could you provide the same info asbout those aswell for the community?


Very Impressive!! Great job!

Thank you!! =)

Hi Barspin, this looks awesome!
Quick question though, what are the dimensions of the biggest part? Ie, what print area would I need to print this?

Thanks alot, i´m glad you like it! The biggest parts are the front and rear Chassie Plates which are about 180x150mm. The sideguards are something like 220mm long. What kind of printer do you have, and what size is the printbed?

I was wondering this as well. I'm on a PrintrBot+ with a 190x190x190mm print area. Would there be any way to piece out the sideguards to fit the area?


I have uploaded the sideguards as separate STL's now. Individually they should fit on your Printbot+

Epic! Once I get the configs bugged out on my printer this is high on my list of things to print. I have a stock of old motors and servos that ive been meaning to use. Major points for all the progress on the OpenRC project, awesome idea.

Absolutely outstanding work on this, I could not believe that pretty much the entire thing was printable. You've inspired me to dust off my printer and print this out, I hope to contribute to the design once I've sourced all the vitamins. I hope you can find the time to continue development and do some testing, I'd love to see this thing working. I've also just noticed from the exploded drawings that it's 4wd, really impressive!

Thanks! I´m happy to hear it got you inspired. =)
I´m going away for a one month vacation so unfortunately there will not be any major updates/tests until mid march... But then it´s game on!!

Ok, I am done with what you have provided but, I am still waiting for the bearings to come in. I put the two top pieces on last night. The trugy Looks very good. However I don't see the standoffs and the part that the center diff fits into. In other words what goes under the top covers?

The missing file (Center Diff Casing Plate.A.0.STL) is now uploaded. Again, thanks alot for the heads up! =)

Oh no, i missed to upload the center diff casing!! Thanks for bringing this to my attention, it is included in the STEP file but i will upload the STL's later tonight! Please note that this part will work but needs to be redesigned in the future. (Aswell as the servo saver).

Hi barspin,
you did an impressive work!
I'm about buying all the stuff I need for the openrc car to have everything prepared, when my replicator will arrive. Can you mention the lengths of the M3 screws? That would help me a lot.

I think it might be a good thing to create an exploded view of the intire car together with a proper BOM list. I will upload one when i get holme. Sometime next week!

Thanks for the STP-file. I counted all the crews and came up with the following result:

  • Countersunk Head:
    42x M3x8
    8x M3x12
  • Pan Head Cap:
    14x M3x8
    4x M3x10
    6x M3x12
    8x M3x16
    There is also a need of 22 M3 nuts.
    Maybe someone else will help this information :)

Thank you for this list, for anyone who is in the states where metric screws cost more than gold try Mrmetric (I just ordered all my hardware from them) they cost far less than any kits that people sell.

Thanks for the bom in turns of hardware. Was a little intrigued as it listed in the downloads. This helps a lot. I can actually use most of the leftovers from the build of the Prusa i3 :P didnt know what i was going to do with everything left over but now i do.

I have printed the Dif plate. I print at .28 layer and I am using pla. Any way, did I miss something in the print. I can't seem to find the bevel gear for the incoming drive shaft. Also, If you have one could you post a picture or diagram on how the servo saver look when done. This is so cool! Is this car based on anything that I could buy metal part for? I thing I would like the center dif and the front and back difs to be metal if I can find then and it is not a violation of the all "printed part" code.

The incoming bevel gear should be part of "Bevel_Gear_Drive_Shaft" STL, let me know if you can't find it!
I will post something for the servo saver when i get beack home next week!

That was easy. Ok now for another part I can't find. The little Bar that holds the other side of the wishbone hing and is bolted to the dif Bulkhead? Did I miss another detail? Thanks

Ok, i have now uploaded the missing file (Center Diff Casing Plate.A.0.STL). Again, thanks for the heads up! =)

The missing STL is now uploaded (Wishbone_Pin_Holder). I missed it at first, sorry.
Thanks for the heads up on the "nut hole", I will fix that as soon as I get back home!

Please continue providing feedback, i really appreciate it! Thanks

Hey barspin,

This is it! Great achievement !

I'm currently printing all the parts. I will print all those bulky body parts in PLA for added strength and everything else in ABS. Mendelmax, Slic3r, 0.5 nozzle, 0.2 Layer.

Maybe some hints on sourcing he parts (I live in germany):

Maybe it would be cool to use some kind of upgrade kit for existing cars to source the bearings, suspension and so on. The LRS S10 Blast parts used by MCNugget as well fit in nicely:

LRP Ballbearings 15x10x4mm (10 Pieces) - S10
LRP Ballbearings 10x5x4mm (10 Pieces.) - S10

Can you give me the measurements for the drive shafts and suspension? I will help you creating the BOM for germany!


If you live in Germany you can find a lot of parts over at: http://www.conrad.dewww.conrad.de . I'm currently traveling so unfortunately I'm without a computer and cannot help you for a while. You could try to ask someone else to help over a Google+ (link is posted above).

Is it possible to calculate the measurements out of the Step-File? The same question goes for the drive shaft and all those parts which could be available in metal as well (gears, planetary gears). I tried IDA-Step which displays it very nicely but it lacks the tools to measure the stuff. I found normal non sealed ballbearings for 1 Euro per piece on ebay or sealed 2RS for 2,50 Euro per piece.

Hmm, i will post the data for creating rhe ge års when i get back holme next week. All designwork is done in TopSolid 7 (7.6). Source files (TS7 package) available upon request!

Freakin' awesome.

Thanks! :-)

I can't print the wishbone plate. Is there any way you could you could make a front and back plate?

Hi! Thanks, I'm currently traveling and without my laptop. I can do this when I get back but it won't be until next week. Otherwise I think you could do it in Netfabb basic.

That cool I got it. I plowed into Blender( finally I have had it for about a year) I figured out enough to delete the right side pair. One question though. They are the same right? ( the left and right pairs)

Thanks again for doing this. It is starting to look good.

Slic3r has a split function which is very good. I've split the wishbone plate, so I can print one piece at a time.

Did you find it difficult to get a decent slice on the centerdiff gears or the c-hub? I get random errors with missing layer - instead it does bridge some holes. Annoying!

I have been using Skeinforge to print these things. I get some warnings in the slicing stage but, they are fixed it seems in dimension or stretch.

Hmm, no I shade no problems slicing either the gears or the C-hub. Using ReplicatorG 0039.

Ich will switch to replicatorg/skeinforge - slic3r gives me a headache.

Ah, I didn't know that. Thanks for sharing!

OK, good to hear!
Yes, left an right are the same. I was actually thinking about printing them "standing" so that the layers would go "around" the axels for added strength. Don't know if it would actually be better but there will be a lot of force on the wishbones if they would suffer a direct hit so any added strentgh is a good thing.

Looking at it with my minds eye FEM I looks like flat gives the best strength. Z is weakest so front and back and side to side. If it "delaminates" at the hinge maybe add a few extra layers to the outsides.

This is the coolest 3D print thing I've seen. Specially since the best feature is that one can 3D print any part that breaks when using the car. Spare parts are basically for free!

Thanks, i´m so glad you like it!
I hope that one day i can come and work at your awesome company! =)

It is a joy having you on our team Daniel! :)

You'll also find a truckload of bearing offers if you just search for the dimensions on ebay.
5x10x4 is size MR105
10x15x4 is size 6700
Try to get a 2RS version - those are actually sealed, while the ZZ variants still allow dust and sand to get into the bearing.

This is great, thanks for all your work! It looks like many of the parts could be laser cut. Do you have DXFs of the flat parts? Although, I am not sure if the parts are made in standard acrylic sheet thicknesses.

Regardless, I will be working on getting one of these printed for sure.

Again, great job!

Hi! The baseplate is 4mm thick and if I'm not mistaken the other flat parts are 6 and 7mm thick.

Do you have a source or part names for the bearings? Like when people list 608zz bearings, they don't usually throw the dimensions like that. What are the actual bearing IDs?

Hey barspin, Great work!

I've been into RC for a while and IM just now getting into 3d printing, I cant wait to combine the two. I have a couple questions:

First of all, what printer are you using? your prints look really high resolution and shiny, are you sanding them after printing?

In terms of design, your ride height looks a little low but you have the front shocks pre-loaded all the way down, is weight going to be an issue? or do you just need stronger springs on the front?

Im looking forward to playing around with your design!

Hi SteelyDan!

Thanks for the nice comment! Everything is printed on a Replicator. All parts are printed with a layer height of either 0,2mm or 0,25mm. No sanding.

Regarding the shocks i just used what i had at hand which was from my 20+ years old Kyosho. When i was 12 years old i decided it would be a good idea to glue the shocks that way. One might have to do some adjustments to fit your own shocks. If you (or anyone else) need help with that let me know!

Regarding the weight... it´s all plastic and light as a feather! ;-)

What's the weight of the printed parts as you printed them? Or approximate guess on part of a roll that was used?

Curious so I can 'budget' plastic for this.

I think both my old rear wheel drive TC3s are going to get re-built to this design!

Sorry for the somewhat late reply. I'm not sure about the weight, I printed everything with a low infill to quickly be able to put together a prototype. So for that I used maybe half a roll of MBI ABS.

Half a roll is good enough. About half a Kilo, or ~$25 worth to prototype. Probably close to the hole roll for denser parts.
I'd expect that not all parts need to be really dense. It could be worthwhile to give your prototype a run and just print the bits that break more densely.

Flippin Awesome Sauce! You should make it look like the Toy Story RC Car though ;)

This looks awesome, I have always wanted to get in to rc cars. What a great way to easily get into a hobby.

I've been waiting for this one, thank you so much!

I'm in love with you man!!!!!!!!!!!

This is sooo cool!

This is the greatest 3D-printable toy! Thanks for sharing this with the RC-enthusiasts world!