Arcade Coin Door

by Big-E Aug 12, 2014
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Very nice model - 3 of them may end up being mounted on my Arcade1Up cabinets.

I started out experimenting with the reject buttons - I printed several pairs in clear and translucent red. I really like the ones I did with translucent purple - the black text is almost invisible until lit, and then it becomes very attractive.

How did you manage to get the "Press..." text to slice correctly. Did you use a nozzle smaller than .4mm ? The text doesn't get much definition until I set the extrusion width down in the upper .30s, but with a .4mm nozzle, I can't get it small enough to render completely in the slice.

I'm going to try printing the blank one in translucent red (also will try clear) on my resin printer and using the paper text insert rjelbert has modeled. That should solve my text resolution problem.

There are some issues with the door that affect the final appearance:

Besides the partially covered slot to the left of the left coin slot (you mention this) there is also a small interior hole above the right coin slot - also appears to be some left-over artifact. Unlike the one near the coin slot, this one does eventually get covered during printing, but its printing leaves visible artifacts on the surface. There are several other partially covered slots near the right edge of the encircling perimeter and some holes or something on the left of this perimeter as well. Easiest way to find them is to slice and look at the layers. A few things in the layers don't make sense for a solid object. Two hidden slots on the lower-right; those jagged inside corners (also leave some printing artifacts).

I suppose I"m one of the perfectionists you mention, but I think once these phantom artifacts are corrected so they're no longer visible in the print, this will be a 5-star model.

Glad you like the model; Let me try to address some of your comments and issues with it.

I realize there are artifacts in the model; I have intended to fix the issues with it, but I really haven't had too much time to do so. I will eventually, when time permits. I posted this years ago; and have since improved my work. This isn't the only model I want to fix. some of them (mostly my earlier designs) need some fixes that, at the time, I had no idea how to correct; and those models didn't cause issues with my old Rep2, but I realize will cause issues with other machines. Now that I have a multitude of different printers, I realize the importance of manifold models, and how some machines can't cope with less "accurate" designs. Plus, they look better in the end-result.
As for the letters on the reject button, Mine didn't print perfectly either (as you can likely tell from my photos) but they are legible. I printed using a .4mm nozzle on a Replicator 2. My results came from having a very level build plate made of thick glass, and I believe I used a .1mm layer height at high resolution. You would likely get better detail with a smaller nozzle, but I did print mine with a stock Replicator 2 .4mm nozzle. I may have changed my extrusion settings a bit, but it's so long ago I can't remember.
I've also been playing around with a new multi-color printing technique, which prints all the colors on the bottom layer with a single extruder/nozzle. I've had excellent results, and it may improve the print quality of this part, so I may post a revision of the button using this method if it produces a good result. Best part is it will work on most printers; I got the idea from this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KV2AjyowXX4 but I found a way to make it work on a Replicator 2 which doesn't have the same fine control over z-height (it's not running Sailfish firmware).

I know a lot of people use plasti-dip spray on the finished coin door for a nice finish. I would assume some nice gloss or satin black spray paint would work well too. If you want to go that extra step in post-processing, it goes a long way to make it look more polished.

Since my current project has been a 3D printable Bartop arcade (it's complete, and files will be going up in the near future since thingiverse is sort of working again) I will probably post a revised coin door model within a month or two, as you're not the first person to bring this up. The defects in the model have bothered me for a while, even back when I posted it. I've improved the quality of my designs since, along with the fact that this design was rushed, so It's about time I revisited it. I will likely post revised parts as a remix, as I don't want to screw up the original thing, since Thingiverse has been on the fritz and the original archive might get borked if I were to add files to the original.

That pretty much sums things up. I have a lot of contracted work that I do to keep things going, along with other side projects, so I appreciate patience; I basically submit things to Thingiverse as my schedule allows. I promise everyone that an improved revision of this model is coming. It will be a month or two, but I will post it.

Thanks again for the feedback. :)

I certainly understand the time demands of Other Stuff. I have those myself. I've got three completed modeling projects on deck, but can't seem to find the time to document and upload them. Coincidentally, I'm modeling some parts for needed repairs.

You may start getting more traffic on your arcade door - there is a growing number of Arcade1Up cabinet owners and they're looking to customize. That's what brought me here. I've found yours to be an excellent model for those 3/4-sized cabinets. I have a few ideas for updates when used for that purpose - perhaps the cabinet owners just want a stick-on, but still want lights - so I may re-create it in OpenSCAD and see what I can do. In my free time, of course.

I have seen that multi-color video you referenced. I thought the technique was quite inspired, but haven't pursued it - I'll be interested to see how it works with the button text. I fear I'd still have resolution problems with the smaller text, just as I have with the current one. I really don't have any problem with the way you do it now (I've used that method myself a few times.) Just drop an M600 in the right place and the printer does most of the work.

Interesting pointer on Plasti-Dip. I hadn't considered that, though I've used it for other non-printed things. I find the black color to be too flat, but perhaps the clear has more gloss. And now that you mention coatings, I might try some black "crinkle" paint and see if the finish looks realistic and attractive.

I look forward to your updated model. Please, take as much time as you want. I'll play a few games in the meantime. Or upload some models...

Thank you so much for this .stl! I printed one, added an LED + arduino (micro), IR Emitter/receiver and now have a working coin door for my RetroPie arcade. I just got this working a few minutes ago, my son and I have been working on it for the past 2 weeks. I'll post a YouTube video soon. Just wanted to say "Thank You".

btw- You can see some of what we've done already on Facebook, https://www.facebook.com/jwagnertech/

My son and I added this thing ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2238631 ) to the coin door to allow it to accept quarters, actually any coins. Then used an IR emitter and receiver + Arduino to detect when a coin fell between the two. Here's a video that describes it better than I can here: https://youtu.be/iZGhxdxC9DU

Coin Door ramp

Here's the video of how we used this model: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iZGhxdxC9DU

Hope this helps others!

Thanks! looks awesome!

Could you share your .skp files? I'd like adapter this door to one-button for my arcade cabinet.

The Original SKP files weren't by me, But I linked the source in the summary under the Thing Details.
If you want to download it, You probably should, I don't know how much longer it will be up. I didn't get authorization from the designer, otherwise, I would have shared them with my STL's.

Xylosesame's Sketchup files can be found here:

I used other tools to modify the source after they were exported to other formats. I'll see if I can find them. If so, I'll post them.

I could also probably make a single button version and post it up. I'll check out some references and see what I can come up with. I've been working on a new thing based on this design and was planning on posting it in the near future, so it wouldn't be that much trouble.

Thanks for your help! I tried to make a single-button version, and this was my result:

But I don't know how finish it, as your version, to make all backside completely flat.

All help will be welcome, thanks Big-E!

Awesome!! Thanks for Sharing

Glad you like it; Your print turned out nice!

The source I derived this from is on sketchup. I linked it in the thing info.

Everything else was done using tinkercad, Wings3D and tools to add the text to the button (converted an image to an SVG path using inkscape)
I'll see what I can do to open up the tinkercad files if you're still interested, but the base source from Xylosesame I modified is here:
I might also have some of the files I generated from Wings3D still; I'll need to double check.

OK, This is slightly Awesome! I have some ideas I would like to play around with however... any chance you can post your source files?

Thanks for the awesome design, I currently have generic pushbutton switches in place, but they just don't look the part. I'll see if I can somehow integrate a switch into your design. Thanks for sharing.

no problem.

For a quick solution, you could always mount a pair of black, momentary push buttons into the coin returns; of course, half of the challenge is making those coin rejects work. be sure to share your results if you come up with something. :)

You might be able to rig up your smaller button to a microswitch, and have it act as a credit button or service button.

Sorry about the serial posts, but this thing is awesome!

Yes, I originally planned on doing that; I already use some buttons on my control panel to add credits, but I planned on slaving those buttons to the coin door as well. However, due to time constraints, I shelved that idea. Still, I have the smaller buttons; which were made early in the build, and included them for those who were daring enough to implement it. There's always the possibility of incorporating a coin mech of some sort if someone wanted to go all out, which is why I was careful to add coin slots; or actually use a quarter in the coin slot, held in a clip that triggers the microswitch (push the quarter to add a credit). This part has many possibilities, which is why I kept it simple and versatile.

Glad you like it; that's why I post these things; for those that can appreciate and use them.

Great Idea to use your layers for the coin reject text.

On the "real" reject buttons of this type, a translucent white insert with the design printed onto it is sandwiched between clear colored layers. They look very similar to this, but one is smaller, and nests into the back of this button. the back piece has a post to align a spring. You can make custom inserts with inkjet paper.

Hope that made sense.

I love the fridge magnet Idea, I might just do that once I get printing!

I know about that; I have always been into how arcade cabinets worked. A lot of people use inkjet translucency sheets to make their own inserts.

When making the original button (the smaller one) I was adding a post to the interior, with a a hole through the center and a slot for a captive nut, so you would be able to add a spring and a bolt. drill a hole in the panel you mount the door to, thread the fastener through, add the spring, and screw it in to the button. a microswitch could be triggered by the head of your bolt when the reject was pressed. However, inserting a captive nut would be tricky within the tight confines of the button, and how the added material would affect the lighting was a concern. It's still doable, and I may eventually revisit it. But, I posted the shell of the smaller button so if someone were more adventurous or eager they could give it a go.

If you like this, you may appreciate the design I plan to post next. Let's just say it was designed to resolve an issue with many a cluttered control panel layout.

Oooh, the anticipation is killing me already! I am looking forward to that.

This looks great! I am an arcade collector, and this looks like the real thing. You could probably make it look even more real by spraying it with satin black spraypaint, and some metallic silver for the lock. The satin paint is what I use to refinish old coin doors, and might hide the printed look a bit.

Yes, I did wet-sand it a little; I've considered using satin clear on it for this reason. I've spray-painted printed parts before, and it definitely smooths them out after laying down about three coats. It's good advice.

Haven't installed it yet, I will either use four small pan head screws, or some construction adhesive. to mount it to my cab. I'll post up pics once I've mounted it. I wanted something that looked good, not Novagem buttons or a sticker. an actual coin door blank would be great, but money is tight, so I came up with this as a nice, happy medium.

I have a few more bits that I've made for my project; I will be posting them as well over the next week here on thinigiverse.