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Guardians of the Galaxy Infinity Orb / Stone / Gem UPDATED 2014-11-13

by tonyyoungblood, published

Guardians of the Galaxy Infinity Orb / Stone / Gem UPDATED 2014-11-13 by tonyyoungblood Aug 16, 2014
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Summary

UPDATE 11-13-2014
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I'm nearly finished with my orb! I added pictures of the (near) final paint job. Last thing I need to do is make a few minor improvements to the stl files, then I'll replace all these updates with detailed instructions.
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UPDATE 11-02-2014
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I have my rims and my orbs glued together, Bondo-ed, primed with filler sealer and sanded (4 times), and just about ready to paint with the final colors. There will be a few additional changes to the .stl files, including hidden mounting holes for magnets and a few more thickenings of thin edges. But we're getting close!
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UPDATE 10-15-2014
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I updated ExteriorNew.stl in order to make some of the thin walls thicker and fix a few things here and there. I'm printing it out now. If all goes well, I'm hoping it will be the final draft.
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UPDATE 10-01-2014
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The printing of the new exterior is complete, and it looks great at .1mm layer height, .4mm nozzle, 13 percent infill, and no supports. It took about 20 hours to print (one half sphere, that is.) See first picture.
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UPDATE 10-01-2014
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I'm about 3/4 through with printing the new exterior, which is enough to say that it is printing without supports VERY WELL. If anyone was holding off until that was confirmed, you are clear to start printing.
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UPDATE 09-30-2014
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I removed the old version of the exterior so as not to cause confusion.
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UPDATE 09-30-2014
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I uploaded a new version of ExteriorNEW that gets rid of the support tower. In order to make the dome print without support structures, I made the upper interior conical with a slightly-less steep overhang than the sphere. Print at your own risk. I'll let you know in 18 hours if it works.
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UPDATE 09-30-2014
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I tried printing the ExteriorNEW last night. When I woke up this morning, I found that the support column broke, which caused the plastic to block the path and stagger the resulting layers. So now I'm working on a slightly thicker support column.
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UPDATE 09-30-2014.
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Ok, I finally finished the new exterior! In order to make it easier to print without supports, it is in two files: "GuardiansGalaxyInfinityOrbExteriorNEW" and "GuardiansGalaxyInfinityOrbRim." Print ExteriorNEW without support structures. I included a support column inside the orb as a part of the print. Break it off when ExteriorNEW is finished printing. I recommend using support structures on OrbRim. At any rate, print each and glue together to form one-half of an orb. Then print both again to form the other half.
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These two files are hot off the press, so I can't guarantee they will print flawlessly. I printed the rims, and they align nicely. I'm printing the ExteriorNew as I write this. 16 more hours to go in an 18 hour print! I'm leaving the old version of the exterior up for now in case the new version gives anyone trouble. That being said, if you print ExteriorNEW and OrbRim, you WON'T need to print the old file called GuardiansGalaxyInfinityOrbExterior.
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Here's my attempt at replicating the Infinity Orb from the film Guardians of the Galaxy. It's a work-in-progress. So far I've completed the outer shell (second draft), the rim (first draft), and both halves of the interior (final draft).
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In one of the pictures, you can see a side by side comparison of my orb and the orb from the film. I tried to replicate all the hole shapes to the best of my ability.
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UPDATE: 09-20-2014. A user was having trouble printing the interior because of the bottom later being two separate pieces. I added some planks connecting the two pieces. Hopefully this will fix the problem. I'm STILL working on an updated exterior. It's taking me longer than expected. I hope to have it up sometime next week.
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UPDATE: 08-31-2014. I was able to successfully print the interior. It fits nicely inside the exterior. I made slight modifications to the Side A and Side B files, in order to fix a few things. The new versions are now uploaded. I'm making progress on the new version of the exterior, which I'll post soon.
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UPDATE: 8-30-2114.
"Interior Side B" is now posted. If all goes well, it should interlock with Side A. As with Side A, print without support structures. Next up, a slight redesign of the exterior to make it printable without support structures.
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UPDATE: 8-28-2114. "Interior Side A" is now slicing correctly. It's going to show it's not manifold, but you can ignore this. I already ran this (and all my STLs) through Netfabb. Print the interior WITHOUT support structures.
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UPDATE: 8-27-2014. I uploaded Interior Side A, the first of two interior halfs. It's designed to fit in the exterior with just enough lip for you to glue it in purposefully tilted on the axis. I designed it so that you don't need to use support structures. I don't recommend printing this part just yet, as there are some slicing errors. I'll let you know when I get it repaired.
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UPDATE: 8-18-2014. 18 hours after beginning the print, I have half an orb! The support structures are proving to be extremely difficult to remove, but it did actually print correctly.
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UPDATE: 8-18-2014. I uploaded a new version. The file is still not manifold, however, it does actually slice correctly now. It's printing now. Estimated time for 1/2 of the sphere is 15 hours!
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UPDATE: 08-16-2014 . The current stl WILL NOT print correctly. I'll try to fix it and get a working version uploaded sometime tomorrow. Before I uploaded this file, I ran it through Netfabb and made sure it was manifold. It checked out as manifold in Repetier V1.0.0. Then I updated to Repetier Host V1.0.1. and went to print. Now it's not manifold.

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These STL files do not seem to be high res (blocky and angular shape). Do you have a high res version? I love what you have made, but I want to print this at a very good resolution. but your STL files are very angular, the min step needs to be finer. Thanks!

I do not.I made this when I was first learning Sketchup. I find that if you print it at .1mm resolution and then do a little sanding, you can get it looking great.

That's ok, I was just trying to print this without much sanding and bondo. Any chance you still have it and can send or upload the STEP file?

I made it in Sketchup, so the original file is the .skp file included above. I never had a way to export it to STEP.

Please, can anyone post 3d printer settings that you have printed the orb with? Thank you

I cannot seem t get the rim piece to print. It keeps failing and turning into spaghetti.

Just finished printing my first half and was wondering what parts you sprayed and what have you painted on? I was wondering if I should spray the black on then do a thin spray over the top with the silver or paint on the silver by hand? Any opinion?

Also how did you manage to sand all the crevices?

To avoid most of the sanding I covered everything with a really light coat of XTC-3D which is totally enough to smooth the crevices out. When those are painted black you won´t see anything in there anyway ;)

I'm currently printing these parts, I was just curious as to the reason for a separate ring. I saw something about hiding magnets maybe? Its printing nicely so far!

It's been about 2 years since I designed this, but I believe it was so I could print without supports. Cleaning the supports out of the bottom was a mess. But a nice side effect is that it allows people to drill holes and hide magnets inside.

My first big half finished printing around 4am. I see now that the "top" side of the ring would have been face down as one piece. I have one full side completely printed and it fits together perfectly! I'm excited for the it to be done.

Looks awesome and a lot of hard work, very nice job mate looking forword to printing it.

Awesome work! I printed one off, and am in the process of printing another. Great work, truly fabulous!!

Awesome work, im looking for the headphones if you have the file on that.
Keep up the good work!
Peace Dave

Thanks, Dave! This was my only GotG build, but I'm sure someone out there has made the headphones.

Thank you for all your hard work on this model. Even if I weren't a huge GOTG fan, this is a beautiful object.

Thank you! I hope to have time to come back to it soon and do some updates.

may i ask what the infill percentage, resolution layers how many mm and what material you used PLA , ABS or other?
what do i need to print to make a full orb?
is there a specific colour need for the material?
Thanks if you can help me with these questions.

15 percent infill, PLA, any color, .1 mm height if possible.

will it come out the same as your orb if i did? (10% infill, 0.2 mm resolution, PLA)
what i need to print is
two exterior orbs
two rim
and interior a and b right?

That is correct on the parts to print. I would have listed that earlier but I was typing on my phone and couldn't access the file names.

10 percent infill and .2mm resolution should be fine too, it just may require a bit more sanding. The important thing is in the finishing. To get it really smooth, you'll have to do a lot of sanding, bondo-ing, filler-sealering, and painting. I highly recommend a needle file set to sand the crevices. Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6655-Needle-File-10-Piece/dp/B000NPUKYS

Sorry if i am being thick which i probably am! where abouts in the rim are the magnets meant to go. I've seen mention of holes for the magnets but i can't see them.

The current design does not have magnet holes. Some users have added their own holes. Hopefully one day I'll get back to this project and add magnet holes and a better connecting mechanism.

Oh this is totally gonna be my next sphero cover...

Question: Is the pattern on the side edge of the rings supposed to match up with a) each other and b) the outer shells? I see no pattern and it makes it difficult to assemble. Am I missing something?

Great question. I hope to make this all more seamless in the next iteration.

For now, take one of the outer halves and one of the inner halves. Place the inner in the outer and offset as desired. (I think it looks good if the inner ring is slightly off-axis. This also makes the halves fit together better.) Once you have it as you like it, use two-way tape, glue, etc, to place it. Then set the other inner half on top of the inner half you just placed. Make sure the grooves of the two inner halves are interlocking. Now put tape or glue on the second inner half and place the second outer half on top of the whole assembly. Make sure the outer jagged edge lines are in line with each other. If it's correct, the outer patterns will be symmetrical. Now you'll have the inner halves correctly placed inside the outer halves. I recommend taping over gluing in case you ever need to take it all apart again.

First off, thanks so much for this model, it's awesome! I kept having problems printing myself (printer issues, not the model), so I sent it to Shapeways to print. Pricey, but saved a ton of work getting rid of striations. Turned out great. I only did one of the rings, and outer shell halves; hopefully I can mold them to make the other.

A problem I'm running into, is that the inner core appears to sit to far down in the outer shell. So that when I place the ring, the inner piece is too low. If that makes sense. Do I need to put a filler in the outer shell, to hold the inner piece more flush with the ring? Here's a picture of what I mean:

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k160/hauntedknoll/WP_20150228_017_zpsvisxhtsp.jpg

No, that's actually ok. On my finished version, the two inner pieces don't quite touch each other when the halves are connected. If you want to raise it up, I recommend using thick two-way tape to adhere it. That should be enough extra height to make it flush.

Looks awesome, btw! What material / layer height did you go with?

Cool, thanks for the update, that's great to know!

I've been having printer issues, so I actually had Shapeways print it for me, just using their standard white material. I believe they use laser sintering, with what feels like an extremely fine sand. It's kinda neat stuff. But a bit expensive. :(

One more question, if I may... The thinner ring pieces, do they interlock? I looks like from your pictures that they do, but the one I had printed looks like it won't. Wish I had printed two, so might get another one made quick. Is there a specific reason you made that a separate part, rather than attached to the main orb piece?

They line up with each other when the two halves fit, but they don't technically interlock. That is going to be my main improvement to the next version (coming next month hopefully). The second ring won't really help unless you print the other half.

I made the ring a separate piece so I could print without support structure. In my early version, the support structures were a major pain to remove. When I finalize the next iteration, I will also post a version where the outer half is one complete piece, so people will have the choice based on their method of printing.

Awesome, thanks! I was able to get another ring printed this morning, so I'll see how they match up when I get home. I'm actually hoping to put the two together, and then mold it to get the other half. I'm going to try a few other things with it before then...put some hot glue down in all those channels, to give the sunken surface a more uneven look. Will see how it goes.

Ah! That makes sense for the structure cleanup, always a pain. Sounds great; looking forward to seeing what you do next!

what kind of silver paint did you use

For the filler/sealer, silver, and gold, I used Dupli-Color automotive lacquer-based spray paints. I then brushed-in the cracks with black oil-based paint.

On my next one, I think I will try enamel-based paints.

my son just made this for Halloween, He used a metal paste available at Michaels. It goes on with a cloth and you then buff. It looks great and the best part is there is no mess and no need to sit with a tiny brush to paint the raised parts.

Thank you for such a GREAT design with such intricate detail. The kids loved having their picture taken with GROOT and the Sphear,

Hi, Do you think you could include two or three internal spaces in the top edge rim of the interior just under the Pattern to pause the print so that some neodymium magnets could be inserted to hold the orb together. so six cavities all up the magnets I have commercially available and easy to source are 10 mm dia. x 3 mm thick I think these will fit and give a strong clasping action. I would do it myself if it was an inventor file but I can't edit the mesh directly so it may be easier for you to do it. I have printed the outers and will now print the rim and interior if you up load the file will print the interior again otherwise bore out with Dremel from the inside. Thanks

Yes, this is something I plan to add to the next version. I've just been swamped with other projects, but I will get to this soon.

Having an issue with my printer right now, It's not accepting the orb and ring as two separate parts. Think you could make one for me with a conjoined ring? Thanks!

I will send you a link in a private message. I will eventually post it, but if I make changes to one, I have to replicate the changes to the other. Easier to wait until the design is finalized. The one I'm sending you is fairly up to date though.

Found this file: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:38079/#files , i printed it out as a display type of stand to use for the orb... works very well!

Le Paper Globe Stand

Nice find! User Gravebound also designed a base around the electromagnet that Starlord uses to capture the orb in the film. It's here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:511204

Guardians of the Galaxy / Star Lord Infinity Orb Electromagnet Display Base

I need to know, what is the little ring part included in the files? IS it anything important? Does it go on the finished model or is it just a stand? I'm confused.

It's the rim. I made it a separate piece so you could print each part without support structures. It's essential.

Once I get the files finalized, I will improve the instructions. Still a work in progress.

Of course now i notice the sketchup files, so i didn't need to hand drill countersunk holes in the backside of the rim pieces to put magnets in, i could have just had the rim print w/ the holes in it already... sigh. wonder if i could break the plastiweld & remove the hand drilled rims....

note to others: at least with my 15/64 holes for 3/16 by 1/16 magnets (since i was hand drilling, i wanted some slop in placement so the magnets could shift a bit to allow the rims to align), 8 magnets per ring (16 total) is not enough force to hold the orb together.

and the rim is very much 'not a solid' to sketchup & i'm too incompetent to clean it up so i can use subtract to add the countersunk holes for magnets. if anyone else is interested, these look like a good option: http://www.amazon.com/Neodymium-Magnets-inch-Disc-N48/dp/B008PT6P1Q/ (5/16 by 1/8, so slightly larger than i used, so hopefully more strength), and i'm guessing maybe 12 per rim (24 total) might be enough force to hold it together. 4.2mm radius cylinders would be enough wiggle room for the magnets to find their perfect alignment, and a height of 3.3mm might get the magnet pairs close enough for a strong attraction (or maybe 3.4 or 3.5, etc).

That's a great idea, hiding the magnets on the inside of the rim! Re: the file modifications, I'm on it.

I also recommend staggering the inner sphere's axis slightly to help hold the orb together. See the James Gunn Twitter picture above for an example of what I mean.

I'm also thinking of adding a raised ridge to part of the rim interior to "lock" the pieces together when you twist. Thoughts?

i can't claim credit for hiding the magnets in the rim, my local hobby shop suggested countersinking them when we were checking their stock of magnets for what would fit & how close they needed to be to actually attract. also by putting them under the rim, there is less chance of a glue failure causing a magnet to migrate out of the assembly (a concern if they were surface mounted).

with the slightly oversized holes for the magnets, you could put a small dab of hot glue on the magnet before placing it, to minimize any rattling when the halves are separated.

a twist lock would be great too, and possibly eliminate the need for magnets.

i'm going to try to cut some 'slots' on the sides of the interior pieces to slide magnets in to sit under the lips, to see if i can get more clamping force that way. since those lips are so wide, i could use much wider magnets and hopefully get more clamping.

ok, cut the slots on the interior pieces & installed more magnets (http://www.amazon.com/Neodymium-Magnets-inch-Disc-N48/dp/B008PT6P1Q/), 12 per interior piece (24 total), sufficient strength to hold it closed & lightly toss it around (a firm shake separates the orb). since i did not want to affect the detail on the interior lip, the magnets are further apart than optimal, so if the rim pieces get those counter sunk holes, those magnets would be perfect for it.

Thanks for the R&D! What I'll probably do is (in the Sketchup files) make half of the magnet hole in the rim and half in the sphere, that way it can sink a little deeper without poking through.

you could probably put 3/4 in the rim & 1/4 in the sphere, can't separate the magnets too much or their attraction falls off very fast (splitting the void like that will help align the pieces when gluing if people use glue.)

Poll: Should the stone look like a glass rock, similar to how Gravehound did it in his video http://youtu.be/cCL1QeswBh0

Or should it look more like a carved, rounded ruby? I've seen it made both ways. It's hard to tell what it looks like in the movie because of all the bright light surrounding it.

i'd assume it was rounded like in the james gunn gift picture? (and if someone ends up being a super geek & making a thor "easter egg in the background blink and you'll miss it" infinity gauntlet, they'd probably like to be able to pull the gem out of the orb & put it in the round spot on their replica glove.)

the video is cool. any chance we might get an instructions file that tells us how to go from the print bed to the awesomeness in your video?

The video is from user Gravebound who printed one of these and added all sorts of inventive flourishes of his own, such as the lighted stone. Once I finally get this thing finalized, I'll remove the "work in progress" flag and replace all the updates with step by step instructions. I hope to have that complete before the end of this month.

Hello all looks sweet would love to have someone that can print one up

Hi great work, I just wonder how much it weights, I might use it for my floating orb design.
http://youtu.be/54K8zANWMnk

It's pretty light when you use an infill of 13 percent, but I suspect it might not be light enough for this. And the center of gravity may not be perfectly in the center of the sphere.

This looks really cool though!

If you can remove all older versions
would be better
thank you

Done. Now there are just the current STLs and the original SKP (Sketchup) files (which you won't need unless you are modifying the files).

Basically, just download the four that have pictures next to them.

PLEASE FORGIVE MY IGNORANCE
COULD YOU TELL ME WHAT SHOULD I USE FILES FOR PRINTING ?
I CAN NOT IDENTIFY
ARE THE LAST ?
Thank you so much
And CONGRATULATIONS

Sorry. I should remove the old versions of the exterior so it won't cause as much confusion.

The files you should print are:

GuardiansGalaxyInfinityOrbRim.stl Quantity 2
GuardiansGalaxyInfinityOrbExteriorNEW.stl Quantity 2
GuardiansGalaxyInfinityOrbInteriorA.stl Quantity 1
GuardiansGalaxyInfinityOrbInteriorB.stl Quantity 1

Perfect great Tony
You're the man
Thank you
Success to you
incredible prop

Hey bud, any word on the new exterior?

I'm still working on it. Sorry it's taking me so long. If I've learned one thing, it's to never use Sketchup again on such a complicated print. I'm getting close though.

New exterior now posted!

Looks great! Looking forward to updated exterior!

Great Job! Keep moving, my eyes on you! Please finsih it :)

Thanks! I hope to have the interior up by Friday.

It looks great so far, hope it's progressing well!

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