E3D V6 bolt on mount for Solidoodle

by mdroman, published

E3D V6 bolt on mount for Solidoodle by mdroman Aug 17, 2014
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This is my take on the E3D V6 hot end mount, originally designed by Lawsy and modified by Wardjr so all credit goes to them. This version uses screws and a bracket to hold the E3D V6 hot end very tightly, eliminating all wobble.

Update 08/17/15: If you have upgraded to an E3D hobb goblin drive gear, a new tension arm is required. This file is now attached. It still uses a 625zz bearing, M5 bolt cut to length, and 2x M5 washers. I highly recommend this upgrade, it added even more resolution to my prints.

Update 11/11/14: I added the filament guide and tension arm STLs, originally designed by Lawsy, just so that everything you need is in one place.

Update 11/18/14: I downloaded the files and noticed that the bracket was not printing right. I'm not sure if others had issues but I ran it through netfab and it was fine after that. I have now included a fixed version in the downloads (look for FIXED at the end of the filename).


Print it with at least 3 perimeters and a high percent infill for strength. You need some longer M3 screws, I used M3x30 mm and they were just right. If you printer is slightly over extruding, like mine, you may need to put a washer between the two pieces, or the bracket might slightly flex. Run the wires through the loop to keep them tidy.

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Does anyone know if this is compatible with the Solidoodle 3rd gen?

Yes, it works fine on an SD3, which is just like the SD2 but bigger. It does not work on the workbench series.

Thank you for the quick response!! I'm installing the E3D-V6 hotend. Is this, "MK-5_E3D_V6_MDR_large_bracket" the only file I need to print?

No. You need the mount and bracket combo file, the tension arm for your particular hobbed gear and the filament guide. Just print them all, they are small. Then you can see how it goes together.

I am finally assembling it! However I have realized I have some issues. My tension arm is sticking out from the tension screw. You said print the print for your particular hobbed gear. I am wondering if I printed the wrong print. If I got a longer screw I think I can make this work, but would like to hear your opinion first. :)

I'm still kind of confused on what parts that I need to print, and which one's are unnecessary.

Hey, I want to use this design for my own custom printer (it's a very similar design to the Solidoodle, except larger). What hardware will I need (I.E bolts, nuts, screws, bearings etc.) to assemble this?

Does any body happen to have the cad model for this prefer .step or does any one know how to change it from an .stl to a .step so i could make modification's to fit my printer

I made it in sketchup so it does not exist in .step. It's pretty easy to modify in sketchup, which is free to download, and the .skp file is included. There might be a conversion tool out there somewhere, I don't know anything about .step.

could you possibly send me you original file I can do the rest from there.

The original is already provided, just look under "thing files" and it is the .skp file there. Good luck.

Wilol this work with soliddodle workbench ??

I don't have a workbench so I can say for sure but this is a single hot end mount and the workbench has two hot ends. You might be able to cut off the loop on the right mount and make it work. I'm not sure how it would work with another X carriage too. If you try it, let us know either on here or make a post on soliforum.com. Good luck.

Hi Ive printed this and fitted it to my printer all the screw holes line up perfectly but The actual point where the filament is pushed down does not line up with my e3d

Just adjust the position of your hobbed gear on the motor shaft. Loosen the set screw and move it so the teeth line up. It was made to fit the stock position, so if your stock extruder was a little off from the factor or you previously moved it, it might need adjusted. Also, make sure you get the PTFE tube of the E3D right up to the hobbed gear teeth, just missing it by a hair.

It is not off line that way it is the other way I will add a make entry with photos to show you.

Well that is very strange, mine and everyone else's seem to line up right over the hot end. Did you switch out the stock hobbed gear for another one? I would say look for a smaller diameter hobbed gear. Or all the files are provided if you want to modify the files to suit yours better.

Also, I see you do not have the PTFE tube installed. This is an important part of the E3D, it is not optional and your filament is much more likely to bend or buckle before it reaches the melt zone without this piece. I would install this before modifying the mount because it might provide enough guidance to make it work.

Just wanted to confirm, since the newest zip appears to have some repeats. I just need to print out four 'parts' currently in 3 files - the bolt_on_mount...FIXED (2 parts in file), the extruder_tension_arm, and the Filament_Guide. Correct? Thanks in advance for gathering these all up!! (Upgrading an old skool stock SD2 soon.)

That's correct. I should really go back and delete the non fixed versions. Good luck on your mod.

I still have to order a E3D V6, because my old original hotend got some wired problems and now I will fix it with a new E3D hotend and a new driver board... By the way, the E3D support took me to this site... and I have to say you design is verry good, but I dont understand the difference between the files with koop and w/o loop.

Interesting that E3D sent you here. It's an open source mount that I derived from others much more talented than me so I can't take too much credit.

Anyway, the loop just refers to the half circle on the left side where the heater, thermistor and fan wires may be routed. I recommend using a small zip tie to secure the wires to this loop to prevent movement, which can lead to fraying of the thermistor fiberglass insulator pieces. If that frays too much, it can cause a short and a print fail.

Ok, I think you could only improve one thing:
the tension arm got at his mountig point one rounded edge and the other on isnt round,
if it would be also rounded it would perfectly fit when you open or close the arm.

Now i got the loop thing...

I didn't design the tension arm, that was from the design that I based this off of. It has a section cut out of the top so that it does not interfere with the metal pattern on the motor. It would not fit if both ends were rounded, unless you have a different motor or your drive gear is aligned slightly differently than the stock motor.

Im using the stock morot (NENA 17) and what I wanted to say: you could take a sample at the original Tensionarm, where you got a rounded edge. But whatever, it works fine and if I want a rounded edge I'm going to sand it...
So thanks for your great design.

What is the best material to print this? Any thoughts to using a service that can use resin and have very accurate results?

The best material is ABS due to its heat resistance. I'm not sure if this is a bot trying to promote your resin printing service or something.

WOW! Nice job on this part. It fits great with the E3D v 6. Great solution for the right screw that has interference with the hotend boss.

I printed it in taulman bridge.

Has anyone made it yet and do you have any feedback? I've got about 2 full spools printed on mine with no issues so far.

Design is solid, I'm just running this temporarily out of PLA. Just doing calibration now, but parts fit great. Hope to print a new one in ABS