BabyNES Raspberry Pi B+ case

by jrebeiro, published

BabyNES Raspberry Pi B+ case by jrebeiro Sep 13, 2014
81 Share
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Order This Printed View All Apps


Liked By

View All

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag.

Print Thing Tag

Thing Statistics

243525Views 31732Downloads Found in Video Games


I accept cryptocurrency donations:
BTC: 1DbY6UPru64aiqVBhQTLCzuKY2LmtAS4Gk
ETH: 0xae306877fc1e66e793f7ce4b929119624d6a1c33
LTC: Lbx871xfbRMbfeKAXTmueYnZHFe6cNNQXd
DGB: DLa7rf98WqV23zffDqNycmjGjgwpwXQuwb

Update (2/7/2015): By popular demand, I've opened the vent holes for those who are overclocking (and possibly using the Pi 2). The cart lid has also been fixed to add more support around the connectors.

This is an NES-styled case for the Raspberry Pi B+ and Raspberry Pi 2 Model B. It is inspired by http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:307832 but is a complete re-design from scratch as it only worked with the Raspberry Pi B.

USB/Ethernet are mounted in front and MicroSD card is out the back.
The case is held together with 4x #4-40 1" machine screws.

Complete parts list (with links to Amazon.com):

Raspberry Pi 3 (Recommended)
Sandisk 64GB MicroSD Card
MicroUSB charger for Raspberry Pi 3
Note: These are the parts I used and are guaranteed to fit. Others will probably work too.

RetroPie (Emulators)

About Retro Pie
RetroPie SD Card Images

Wired Controllers:

USB Controller 5-pack (N64 SNES PS2 NES Sega)
Xbox 360 Wired Controller
Atari 2600

Wireless Controllers:

Xbox 360 Wireless Controller
Xbox 360 Wireless receiver
PlayStation 3 Dualshock 3
8Bitdo NES30 Pro
8Bitdo SNES30 Pro


[email protected] [email protected]
15% Infill
90/120mm speed

More from Video Games

view more

All Apps

Auto-magically prepare your 3D models for 3D printing. A cloud based 3D models Preparing and Healing solution for 3D Printing, MakePrintable provides features for model repairing, wall thickness...

App Info Launch App

Kiri:Moto is an integrated cloud-based slicer and tool-path generator for 3D Printing, CAM / CNC and Laser cutting. *** 3D printing mode provides model slicing and GCode output using built-in...

App Info Launch App
KiriMoto Thing App

With 3D Slash, you can edit 3d models like a stonecutter. A unique interface: as fun as a building game! The perfect tool for non-designers and children to create in 3D.

App Info Launch App

Print through a distributed network of 3D printing enthusiasts from across the US, at a fraction of the cost of the competitors. We want to change the world for the better through technology, an...

App Info Launch App

Treatstock is an online platform that offers decentralized manufacturing services such as 3D printing and CNC machining for clients all over the world. We offer free and instant access to comparati...

App Info Launch App

3D print your favourite design with NinjaPrototype, a professional 3D manufacture with consistent quality and speed.

App Info Launch App

The people running into the problem with the screws not going in all the way need to drill out the hole and tap it. I used a bit the same size as the hole and then tapped it with a 4-40 tap and it hold perfect and goes all the way in. also with the sd card it does fit in but you have to angle it up to the pi and it should go right in. The hole for this could be a little bit bigger for easy removal of the sd card but it does fit when it's together properly. Someone asked for layer height as well i used .2mm and it worked great!

With the infill what would happen if i set it to 100% infill?

Anyone else getting a gap between the top and bottom of the print. When I screw it together I get about a 4mm gap. This is using #4-40 3/4in machine screws.

I printed mine on glass using a TEVO Black Widow. [email protected]210, [email protected] with a skirt. Looks great. Thanks a ton for this model. Is the consensus that we should use #4x40 3/4" screws? Can someone confirm?

This is a cool case I really like it. While I definitely agree with most the micro card is a tight fit, the rest of the case is very nice and fits all other ports.

SD card slots fits for me, it's a bit snug but it works. The screw holes work but they're tight, I'd recommend screwing and removing the screws from each piece first before assembling it. Also, the 1" screws I bought seemed slightly too long, I'm going to try 0.75" and see if it works better. Besides that, it looks great and all the ports line up perfectly!

Printed this out. Almost a good fit, but the microsd card did not line up well, and if I placed the PI3 with the card in, it lifted the board in the back and caused things not to line up.

Comments deleted.

I'm having issues with #4 screws going into the case. I screwed one in a few turns but it seems way too tight for the screw and I'm afraid of breaking it - has anyone tried #3s?

I had the same problem with 1" screws breaking when they were nearly screwed in. While 3/4" screws will probably result in less heartbreaking damage, I suspect that 1" screws are intended to be left unscrewed about 1/8" to 1/4" so your baby NES will have tiny little feet. Could be wrong. Going to the hardware store for shorter screws.

Hi! I just wanna say thank you.. i made this for my retropie and all my friends is envying my retropie case.. i made my account to say thank you :)

1" screws seem to be causing a problem for us. The pillars that the screws screw into in the top piece broke off on 2 prints. Turns out the depth of the hole in the pillars isn't very much...at least not on our prints. .75" screws may do it.

This is really cool!

Just finished this print, and it nicely fits my Raspberry Pi 3 B! Here's a time lapse video of my print. Thanks jrebeiro!

Anyone know how cool a Pi 2 vs. a PI 3 in this case is? I'd prefer a PI 3 (stock speed), but If it's going to be too hot, I'll go with a PI 2 if it's major.

Does this fir the Pi3? Printing it and it seems the last set of GPIO pins from the bottom are JUST hitting the support

great design, printing now,, when that mini nes was announced, i told myself, why not just use a pi,, and here you are, made a sweet design,,, i may make my own version, just for shits and giggles. once again, good job!

Would it be possible to put a Raspberry Pi Zero inside this thing?

Printed at a temperature of 215 degrees C.

Hello sir, first of all, thank you for sharing your great work.

I just need help for the screws needed : "4x #4-40 1" machine screws."

I'm french and i didn't find on the internet any "Fr" equivalence for this reference.
Can you help me, and maybe others people, by posting a picture of the screws ?

Thanks a lot, and have a good day.

Anyone know if this fits the pi 3?

It does, however you have to edit the rear two stilts of the base as there are a few extra chips there. I just cut it with a Razor blade, but i'm sure you can load it into a CAD program and delete the required areas. Turn the rectangles into a square should do it

According to the specs the Pi3 is physically identical to the Pi2 except for the vertical height of some chips in certain areas. There is plenty of vertical clearance in this model though so you should be fine.

Comments deleted.

Might be a stupid question, with the PLA print on this, what is the layer height?

I'm a little new to 3d printing and really want to print this case, could anyone please tell me what does the 90/120mm speed refers to.

It's the speed at which the head moved across the part and extruded filament. The first number is the "print" speed and the second is the travel speed. It's only listed here for reference since I printed all pieces without supports. Use whatever the defaults are for your device and adjust them if you have issues.

Welcome to the world of 3D printing.

Amazing make! I greatly appreciate you taking the time to post this.

So as I understand via the comments----this will not fit if you have a wifi dongle attached. Is that correct?

If so, would sizing this up fix the issue or would that make everything else too loose to fit properly?

The dongle will attach just fine, there is plenty of clearance. The door may not close depending on the thickness of the dongle though.

You are awesome---thank you so much (for the quick reply, the info, AND making this!)

Now I just have to look for a Nintendo sticker to attach to the front :-)

Would a M3D be able to print this?

So far so good....I'm printing in white PLA. I did have to run the base through a free online repair service....but its good now :)

Comments deleted.


Hey there,
Cool thing! I would appreciate if you could get the buttons to be functional and add some length in front, so that closing the card lid would be still possible when a bluetooth or wlan dongle is plugged in. I already tried to do those modifications but i'm an absolute beginner...

These models desperately need to be repaired. The base unit has 5 shells and 12 holes, yikes! If I can pull it off without having to start over, I'll post them and link it here.

update I was able to pull it off. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:788360

Repaired Raspberry Pi B+ Retro Case. Repaired original files, made vents larger.

Thanks! I was having a heck of a time trying to get the bottom to print correctly.

Thanks! I was having a heck of a time trying to get the bottom to print correctly.

Whoah! So gonna use this with the Raspi 2 when I get one!

For those of us living in the civilized metric world; 2,5mm wide x 20mm long universal screws also do the trick.

Can someone fix the base stl section. I get errors when i pull it up on netfabb and when i slice it in kiss it looks like crap on the sides. I tried repairing it in netfabb but i cant get it to look any better. thanks.

Comments deleted.

No, I originally tried it with clips but because of the ports on the B+ it isn't possible without making a flimsy connection.

Have you tried using 3/4" screws or scaling the print up a bit to make larger holes to reduce the friction?

With any design like this, you'll need to adjust the print for your particular printer.

I found that when using an M3 machine screw, the top few layers of the screw posts broke off, however the screw then fitted better into the 'new' top of the remaining post hole so all was well.

3/4" #4 sheet metal screws seem to have done the trick. thanks

Is the print in your pictures PLA or ABS? What printer did you use?

It's actually both. I switched printers in the middle of this project because the Makerbot died on me.

The bottom half is silver PLA printed on a Makerbot Gen5. The top half is white ABS printed on a FlashForge Creator Pro.

Nice work man! Can you still close the cart lid when bluetooth or wi-fi dongles are plugged in? Thanks.

No you cannot. It wouldn't be too difficult to modify it to add some length in the front to accommodate the dongles.

Any recommendations for paint to make this resemble the color scheme of the NES? Thanks.

Hey there,

I saw you mentioned that this one is for the Model B+ as the other one only supported the model B, is that to say that this one only supports the model B+ or will the B fit in this one too.

It's only for the B+. Use the one linked in my description if you want one for the B.

hey I've just printed this came out great.
reading earlier comments I don't find the flap or door or whatever you want to call it flimsy but it doesn't want to stay snapped into the case well. (right hand side wants to pop out the bottom)

I'm no good at this stuff and am amazed at the end result. I have three suggestions for those who are good at it, turn the vents into real vents, make the SD card slot a little bigger and try and fix the snap in spots for the lid.

other than those very minor adjustments everything fits great very well designed

will post photo of completed project asap, having trouble locating 1" screw might settle for 3/4"

I actually noticed a problem with the door. When I had made some adjustments for fit, I forgot to move the door pins down. I'll fix that hopefully today and then you can just re-print the door and it should fit better.

3/4" would actually be better, I just couldn't find them in my store.

For anyone having trouble with the bosses snapping off, your prints are probably coming out too small. Scale it up a little to compensate for differences in printers and filament.

Is there a place that can make this for me?
Can I somehow get it made at Shapeways?
I don't have a 3D printer.

lots of places will 3d print for you just google it. my local library has a 3d printer. cost me $7

i have been hearing the front door is flimsy? any elaboration would help, i am currently redesigning it, my model currently has working vents, larger bosses (hopefully will help lots) and i want to make the door a little more quality feeling

Comments deleted.

They work great. You'll pull apart the layers of filament before the threads slip if you put too much pressure on it.

I prefer machine screws to building clips or whatever. It's easier and I find they hold better. The original design clipped together but I had alignment issues and it just didn't feel very secure. I probably could have done a hole/plug in place of the screws but that requires people to have a pretty high infill and then you have to worry about it actually fitting together.

I think wood/metal screws would flex the material too much and cause it to crack since it's not exactly solid plastic.

Comments deleted.

What kind of screw should i use for this print?

It's in the instructions:

The case is held together with 4x #4-40 1" machine screws.

Amaze Much ,Thing Good


Small request: Make the air vents functional, (at least they aren't after I sliced) and add Retropie to the front cart lid.

In order to run PSX games I have to over clock and over volt the Pi and I need a heatsink/cooling to keep it from freezing up constantly.

Great work though. I was waiting for an updated version for the B+. Thanks!

Would it really make much difference? There is plenty of ventilation by leaving the cover open.

There really isn't with controllers and ethernet plugged in. The open top vents would allow for convection to actively pull air through the front cover. Additionally, would allow air to be pushed through with a micro cooling fan.

With the full overclock and overvolt, the Pi heats up significantly.

I quartered the halves so it would fit on my printrbot 1405 better. Fits my pi perfectly! 208 degrees printrbot red pla 40% fill 20 mm/sec printed outside up