by nothinglabs Sep 9, 2014
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Not bad but you are missing one of the main advantages to using 3D printing to make speaker cabinets. Parallel walls = Standing Waves thus you should make everything curved for example like the Klipsch Pro Media 2.1 satellite speakers. Even the fronts are curved to make them act as Point Source Monitors which is what you really want for a desktop system for better stereo separation.

The main reason speakers are traditionally cubes is because they were made from wood boards not because they work better, they do not.

yup - spherical speakers have advantages...

my other project can be used to make them:



NOMOON Speaker Generator

This and the spherical ones are great, thanks for sharing them. With the spherical ones the build area size needed to get the volume is an issue for me. I've got a 4" subwoofer I want to make a box for and the calculations make it too big to 3d print on my printer, this cuboid design can get closer to the desired volume of around 5 litres, looks like I can get to around 4 litres, not sure how much difference it makes to the sound. what would be nice is a design with slightly curved sides,

Now if only we all had round rooms to put them in instead of cubed shaped rooms ......

Could always build a dome room as your home theatre. Ah, if only. Renting and being broke sucks

Nice code. Will be printing a small subwoofer box soon based on SpeakerGen.
Suggestions: Add terminal and speaker hole offset option.

Just finished my second active speaker with this model. Good Job, Nothinglabs!

awesome! - got any pics? (you can add them to this thing as a "made" if you like)


Did you use supports during your print?

Would you mind clarifying some terminology.

You said that you printed a box at 10% infill with only 2 shells. and your second print (the one pictured) - used 20% infill and 3 shells.

With regard to 3d printing, could you please explain the 2 terms:


Dana church

Shell - the number of times the printer runs around the inner surface of the object
Infill - the space between the shells. An infill of 100% means you're printing a solid piece. 50% would mean he gap inside is 50% plastic, 50% air. 25% infil and you're at 25% plastic inside the object, etc.

If you wanted a tougher outer surface of an object, you add shells at the cost of a longer print time

You... probably shouldn't be printing.....

This is definitly a very good idea!
But a speaker enclosure should be as heavy as possible, to avoid resonances. So, instead of generating a full printed box, why not use wood panels, and only print parts? The corners to assemble panels, the tube for bass reflex, a screw box for connections... This would give a nice kit ;o)

I would have thought the enclosure should be as stiff as possible - that subtle (but pedantic, i admit) difference in terminology aids in better design. While certain woods do make better cabinets, understanding why can help use other materials more effectively.

For example, where there are larger surfaces that may resonate, would adding ribs to the structure provide adequate stiffness?

Or maybe another idea to experiment with would be varying the thickness, or even density, of the walls to change the harmonics of the wall and cause the resonances to effectively cancel each other.

You are right, the enclosure should be stiff. And yes, adding ribs is a very good idea! People do this in subs...