by Zomboe Oct 27, 2010
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What software you used to generate the G-Code??

I have used CURE, and the result is very bad.

Please help me.

Hi, I used Skeinforge for this one. I don't remember it giving me any trouble, though the balloon has.

The main thing is to make sure that your layer thickness is 0.3mm, or else scale the STL file to match your layer thickness. For example, if you print with 0.25mm layers, scale by 0.25/0.3 = 0.8333 .

The other thing is to check that the extruder is not starting/stopping a line in midair. Unfortunately printing with single strings can be pretty annoying...


Yesterday I tried slic3r. At first it was very good, much better than CURA, due to retractions. But when it started making rings, as you say, began in the middle.

I'll try "skeinforge" have such ...

Thank you!


I got it. Skeinforge is wonderful!

Thank you very much!

I'm printing it right now on my Makerbot and I don't think I'll be able to tell printed strings from whiskers... :'( Next one will need to run with max travelrate.

Oh and I'm printing with ABS. No drooping, probably because of all the stringers left behind...

I'm looking forward to seeing it! Good luck!

It turned out to have tons of stringers, but the actual lines that were supposed to be printed did not droop. I guess MK5 plastruders ooze a lot.

Do you know RapMans (RapMen?) print without all the ooze Makerbots suffer from?

Correction: ...know how Rapmans...

Your print looks very cool! That green is a nice color.

You end up with less ooze when you use an extruder driven by a stepper motor, such as the ones Rapman or Reprap use. The stepper motor gives you finer control for reversing the extrusion to reduce ooze.

It should be possible to replace the standard Makerbot extruder with a stepper driven one; ma
ybe you could even keep the hot end parts. Depending on what kind of things you like to print, it might be worth investigating.

Neat! You can also control drooping by stretching the filament a bit - set your flowrate such that you're extruding a slightly smaller filament than your nozzle size. The droop actually looks neater on this print though!

You can just barely tell from the picture, but the temperature difference slightly affected the color as well. The one printed at higher temperature is a slightly brighter white.

The effect was more noticeable when I printed Thing7 in translucent blue PLA at the two different temperatures. I don't remember which one was bluer, but I wouldn't be surprised if it was the hotter one.