Leapfrog Creatr nozzle cooling system V2

by zabana, published

Leapfrog Creatr nozzle cooling system V2 by zabana Feb 4, 2013
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Hi all!

Because certain issues when printing bridges and problematic areas with my Leapfrog Creatr I decided to design a colling system for the printer´s nozzle.
An add on is the increased printing speed.

I needed about 6 versions (someones with sub-versions) but finally I´m happy with this final design.
This design can use a 50x50mm fan or a 60x60mm one, I´ll suggest a 50x50mm one (easy to find over ebay, I bought this one "Delta AUB0512HB 50x50x15mm 5015 DC 12V 0.15A Brushless Fan 2-pin 2510 Connector"), but there is a choice to use a 60x60mm kind, but it will crash a little with the right rear stepper.

I also added in both sides holes to insert a couple of 5mm leds so we can see better the printing area :D


Instructions are pretty simple, just print it all, do some cleaning and mount it with a few bolts.

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Is it possible to send the files in a other format than .STL. For example an .STP? Because we want to print this product for cooling 2 extruders at the same time.

The fan parts wont print the little round spacers correctly, like the 50x50 fand grid.. has some little round deals I assume are spacers. In simplify3d it doesn't attempt to print those round spcares until quite a few layers are done..and ends up printing them in mid air.. its weird I don't know why its doing it like that either.

EDIT: I see why the round nubbin spacer things are not flat with the rest of the print they are floating in mid air...not sure I can fix the STL to fix that but I'm about to try to seperate them in simplify3d

I was able to seperate the little round nubbins from the model in simplify3d to fix the problem.. but here is a screenshot of the problem. the little round deals are floating in mid air.


Some thoughts about usage. I installed it to be controlled by software (24V on new Creatr-Board).

  1. Does anyone have suggestions regarding different fan speeds? 50% or 100% doesnt seem to make any difference on my prints.
  2. I start the fans adding manually M106 S[0-255] after the second layer in gcode. Any Idea how to to that automatic. I dont want to start the fan in the start-skript to prevent cooling of the first to layers that have to stick properly to the printbed.

If you can controll it by Mcodes then you just need to tell the slicer to activate it when you want.

I have 40x40 fans which work on 24v… Any ideas on how to use these for nozzle cooling?

If you don´t mind to have them always conected you can plug them to the carriage fans. In other hand you can build (or maybe buy) the circuit that controls them over D4

how can you get cooling to both hot ends?

you need to choose one, I firstly did a dual system but the airflow was divided and in consecuence not enough

I have no experience with arduinos and cant figure out how to connect this thing.
Can I have some steps to follow?

Sorry, but I don´t have a step by step guide. If you look for them you´ll find on google, but maybe is better to feed the fan with an externall psu to avoid risks.

Hy Zabana, thanks a lot for your printing !!
It seems to be really interesting and I will make it.
Could you put upload each part alone please ?
In fact, I tried to print and some are not ok, and I don't want to print all again.
And in this case each part takes less time to print and will have a better perimeter aspect (due to travel movement).
It will be really great

Hi there!

Ok, pieces are uploaded separately.

Enjoy them!

Really Thanks Zabana !!!!!


1) Do I need to make two separate bottom mounts for a dual extruder Creatr?
2) I have a new new Creatr, what is the best fan to get and how to connect to the board for SW control?
3) Thanks for making this great thing! Keep up the great work!


1) Yes, there is a file for each extruder/hotend because there is not enough flow to cool both at the same time, anyway we use to print mainly with only one.
2)I was working with a 50x50 fan but a 60x60 will work as well (just test it because fans can hit some places in the rear part. A 24v fan will make control simple, there is a schematics if you´ve got the old arduino+ramps version. If you have the new one you just need to plug the 24v fan in the right place in the board.
3) Thanks a lot! I designed a new X carriage in bowden style with JHead mount hotends. I will release that files once it all is finish and working fine(need to cool the steppers now in summer)


Nicely designed and much needed mod! However, the print already failed twice as the outer pieces (the top halves of the x-carriage attachments) come loose from the bed after about an hour. Despite the acetone+abs mix and a bed temp of 95 that is.
I would be very grateful if you could split the components out into seperate stl's, since I have 2 perfect main bodies now, but no top halves...

If prints curl up, you could also try to lower printing speed and try to use the lowest usable temperature for your ABS.

You could also try to add a brim in slic3r or use KISSlicer using a raft that sticks out further from underneath the object.

KISSlicer settings for the Creatr can be found here: http://bikealive.nl/tl_files/3D_printing/Creatr/settings/KISS_1.1.0_settings.ziphttp://bikealive.nl/tl_files/3...

thanks for the tips Rob. I'll try this when it happens again in some print.

Thanks Zabana,you saved me yet another long print!

A pleasure to help. Post a pic once you have done it please :D

Very nice print!!!

Thanks, Zabana. You mention that you used a 12V fan. However, the front cooler fans on my Creatr run at 24V. When trying to hookup your cooler to them, my 12V fan fails to start.
You might want to change the instructions to inform people to get a 24V fan.

That´s true, the creatr board has 24v connections, but I used a special circuit to handle a 12v fan.
Problem is that in ramps D4 is like a servo conection so what the machine controls is a PWM output and in consecuence we can not attach a fan controlled via SW directly.

In the new boards a is possible to do directly, but in old one you will need the circuit.

I´ll add now a pic where you can see such info.

Great! Now I just need to dig up the components. Most likely I have an 7812 lying around somewhere, as well as some mosfets. Thanks again!

Yes, it's done!

I fitted IGUS bushes to make it run smoother and made a 40x40 fan inlet to use an original 24V fan from Leapfrog.

Very nice piece of work.

I just printed the 50x50 fan inlet and the "ears" where the bolts go are not printed. I discovered that slic3r warns me about "overlapping self intersecting facets" (rotated the part in repetier and sliced with slic3r). Rotated the part in netfabb and then it's all OK.

Very nice to add the little flaps on the ends of the longer beams to prevent warping :)

Thanks ;)

I hope this cooler helps you with your prints!


Just printed the outlet parts but I am too ashamed with the results to show them here :( Even the 'anti-warping flaps' did not prevent warping. Another thing is that my Creatr was originally delivered with one extruder mounted on the left side. I tried scaling with a factor of -1 to mirror the part but both repetier and netfabb did not like this...

About warping I tried the abs+acetone juice and it works wonderfully in my printer (don´t add a lot)

And because the mirror thing don´t worry, I´m uploading a mirrired version for this cases ;)

I'd love to make one that fed air to the left extruder. My right extruder (T0) always has problems feeding, so I mostly print with the left extruder. I'll be on the lookout for it!