Imperial (SAE) Prusa Mendel Production Plates for Makerbot

by Spacexula, published

Imperial (SAE) Prusa Mendel Production Plates for Makerbot by Spacexula Nov 9, 2010


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The SAE variation of the Prusa Mendel is in a constant state of development, and that being true, Thingiverse is not the appropriate places to hold these files. Please go directly to the prusa mendel github at:


I strongly suggest you follow the calibration routine Prusajr describes in this video:


This will insure that your fasteners will fit correctly.


The overal instructions for Prusa Mendel are mostly static, but details change as you and others find new and better ways to do things. The instructions to construct both the metric and imperial instruction are at:


Some SAE specific instructions, such as a purchasing guide and rod cutting guide can be found here:


Any updates to the wiki should be done into the main Prusa site unless they are only relevant to SAE fasteners, in which case they should be done to the SAE page

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Cool !

I was searching and din't find any Metric bolt here. Now I will be able to print a Prusa.

I already started to print some plates for Metric Prusa ( http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4495http://www.thingiverse.com/thi... ), Do I need to restart all prints or some of them are the same ?

Also, on the Wiki you replace all M4 -M4 with #6 bolt, do you have a picture of them ? Just to be sure I will buy the good one :-)

Thanks for your work !

Prusa mendel cupcake production files
by kliment

All the parts are interchangable besides the X axis. The carrage is interchangeable if your wiling to heat up your nuts with a iron and use #4.

X motor and X idler will not swap because of the Z lead screw

is there anywhere that has the plated up parts for a makerbot build platform? i thought they were here but cant seem to find them anymore. is it too much of a pain to keep the stl plates updated?

Go to the github. Thingiverse is for showing off, not serious development.

All things are kept up to date at the github

I've printed all the parts, and on assembling them, my 608 bearings did not fit in the extruder body. Which measurement in the scad file is for the 608 bearings? :-[

wades are always tight, your going to need to clean out the inside of the hole the 608 goes into.

This is probably a "newbie" question, but what is the standard fill ratio in skeingforge for printing a prusa or mendel? Is 100% fill overkill?

Not at all! It's actually a fun one. It's the closest to a religious question that you can get around here! :)

I go 10-15% on all parts but gears, where I go 30%.

Some people say 20% on all parts but gears should be 50%

Thanks. I've been looking everywhere for that answer.

Hah, I think I've been printing at 90% for the most part. Now considering that that may be why things keep popping off the build platform or skipping...

So p5bush.stl contains bushings that requires 5/16 ID with 7/16 OD sleeve bushings? What is the minimum length of the sleeve bushings (3/8" ?)?

Will the bushings contained in the stl work without the sleeve bushings?

3/8 will work, I use 1/2 inch.

Nope if your going to use just printed bushings, they need to be PLA and based off the metric pla printed bushing sets.

Luckily most are made in openscad, and you only have to change 1 line to make them imperial

I just designed some of my own for the y-bed (I think): http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5467http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

Since I do not know how to use OpenSCAD, I can't read the dimensions off to make edits.

Printed the big sheet a couple weeks ago, and I can honestly say I've never been prouder of my cupcake. Printing a sheet of parts is definately a test of how well your bot is calibrated. As it stands now I only have one part that I'm going to have to do out of that sheet, so I'm pretty stoked!

So far so good! Only two prints left (cranked this out in about a day to this point). I'll post pictures tomorrow!

I'm about 1/2 way through the set, and most of the parts seem usable, so far, but the gears of my p1011pull.stl pulleys look more like red vines than anything else. Are these the only toothed parts I'll need to farm out? I see a couple of other things with teeth in http://reprap.org/wiki/File:Prusa.jpghttp://reprap.org/wiki/File:Pr... ...

Thanks again!

Try to use them anyway, that belt is very forgiving. If not Mendel-Parts sells professorially made gears for cheap.

Is it possible to split these up? I'd kind of like to get in on the Imperial goodness, but I'm not so great at printing plates of parts, the head tends to beat itself into bolt heads.

Will do, this is still beta, I will get this stuff cleaned up once I have one running.

Isn't this a step backwards ?

If the parts are available in metric, why convert them to an archaic system of measurement ?


Da3v - in reply to dna


I've been wanting to build a mendel for quite some time, and apparently it was the lack of metric parts in my neck of the woods that was holding me back, because I'm gonna print one now!

Imperial sizes are MUCH cheaper in the American Empire.

It is a step backward, but it's a step forward for cost and replication. Considering there are more RepRap in the US than the rest of the world combined, this is a very helpful direction... for now.

Because, in archaic areas of the world, (like the US), metric fasteners and rod are as much as 10 times more expensive than locally-sourced stuff, and are not readily available. A $2 threaded rod in 5/16 can be interchanged for an M8 version, that costs over $10. Additionally, the metric stuff isn't stocked in the local harware stores, so you have to order it and pay shipping.

I've done this with several metric designs.

Imperial..... Impressive, most Impressive.

Thanks for doing this! I will definitely be printing out a set at some point.

It is great to see the price for the mechanical components come down so far. Now the electronics/steppers/extruder really are the majority of the cost. What do you estimate for the cost of a complete Prusa Mendel? $400-500?

$15 per motor so 75 (4 cartisian 1 extruder)

$200 Electronics

$70 for a Hybrid Operators Kit from Makergear

$20 for a power supply

$36 for a 5-6lb chub of Plastic from 3d ink

So all told $350ish

3d ink plastic sucks so bad. i cannot get it to run in my machine no matter what i do i ordered 10 lbs of black and got bent, kinked, dirty, tangled inconsistent diameter bundles. i am using a printruder 2 with a mk5 gear and no matter what i do it does not work for more than 3 min of extrusion. all other plastic i have jammed into my machine has fun completely flawless. there is also no contact for them

I will buy it off you :) You are right 3d ink is kinked, variable in diameter, not the cleanest, tangled, etc. But if you had a high quality nozzle and extruder you could use crap filament.

Get a Makergear hot end (or just PEEK thermal barrier), and a spring idler extruder (Adrian/Wades/Brustruder), and you will have no issues.

I have printed 12 lb so far of 3d ink with no issues with my brustruder, never even touched the idler since I installed it.

i have the makergear hot end, it is the absolute best thing going by far, really really far :), it can handle pretty ratty stuff getting fed into it. and the plastruder 2 does a good job as well. I will have to try out the brutestruder. after that its yours for half price + shipping.

i just laughed when i read the description... :) "I fed it 3d Ink Plastic only throughout testing." CLASSIC.. that should be in all bold and blinking. if only people really knew. hehe


Even though I don't sell my stuff I do care that it works. Crappy over promised things on thingiverse is the worst thing about this place. I don't want people to think I upload junk.

i dont think anyone will ever think that. I printed the extruder last night, looks really nice, i never really understood the springs in the design but after the 3dink i understand perfectly.

question on the electronics - the 2'ed zstepper is driven in parallel with the 1st ztepper? does this mean you just splice together the two steppers wires and hook them up to the reprap motherboard as one motor? or is there another electronic part in there?

Yep, go onto the RepRap IRC, Prusajr has no life... I mean he is there all the time, also a LOT of folk on there are going this direction. We are here to help!


would you mind putting your scad files somewhere that I could get a hold of?


If you go to RepRap wiki, it has a link over to Pruasjr's Github, that's where the files are stored, trying not to fork the originals.

This design is still new, so I might be altering the plates some, but I will update on this thing.

awesome, are your changes on git now? (I couldnt find them https://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel)https://github.com/prusajr/Pru...

I'm guessing most of your work is in configuration.scad?

dude, just so you know - I left work three hours early so I could mod my makerbots platform to use flush screws. making this with non-metric fasteners is such a winner (in a losing kind of way ;))

Are the y-motor-mount and rod clamp parts in there? Or am I just overlooking them?

Crud, left y motor, will add tonight when I get home, the rod clamps are in sheet 1

Thanks! Most Appreciated :)

In Sheet 1, I see
8x bar-end
2x coupling
4x belt-clamp
3x endstop-holder

The rod clamp I'm referencing is this: https://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/blob/master/rod-clamp.stlhttps://github.com/prusajr/Pru...

Or is it unnecessary?

Your good, I am bad, will be added

haha That tower-o-mendel looks like it has the potential to violate the 3rd and possibly 1st of the Three Laws of Robotics. =-O

What are all the Mendels for?

I want to build a bunch of these and give them to our school system. Will a standard electronics kit for a normal Mendel work with this?

All our machines, Up! to self source RepRap are just as much an art to run as a skill. If you give them alot of kits, your going to have to help them alot.

Gen6 is the easyiest electronics, Ramps is the most robust.

Nothing to see here sir, move along.

Careful if you get to many in one room they will take over the world.