by YSoft_be3D Sep 29, 2014
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this is great….. what about a bowl in this ?

this thing broke my printer

not so much when you have to replace the hotend

What should the infill % be?

turn on the setting "spiralize contours" in cura to print in vase mode

This is my feedback: Printed the spiral_3.stl two times. First with a decent speed for my printer without compromising the quality (100mm/s real), second with low speed (60mm/s) and lower temp. Both are ok but the first one has some details on the edge of the spiral. The problem is that high speed and low thickness isn't good. So unless you want to print it at 200% scale at least, print it at low speed to get better details. Also, turn the layer fan to max to ensure that the layer is solid until the machine print the next one.
Tested with my own made delta printer with 0.4mm nozzle using Simplofy3D with 0.20mm layer height, 5 bottom layer and vase mode. The model was scaled to 160% in X and Y axis and 100% in Z axis.
Print time: First (100mm/s) 1:49:26hs - Second (60mm/s) 2:40:05hs

Love the designs, had fun printing the first one & will post my make. Thanks for sharing your work!

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3.5 hour print? At what settings? I am printing it at 60mm/s, 15% infill and it is over 12 hours and still printing.

Same mine is 14 hrs in and it is only halfway done. I think you are supposed to use vase mode.

You Choose a vase setting.

If I load it at 0.3mm layer height with 0% infill, it loads 3.5 hours for me...
The infill really makes a difference in the time. It doesn't really need nay infill. You can probably print this using a spiral wall!

Hello, looking at your item, I thought you might be interested in my project. is a lamp printer with which you can extrude resin and print similar objects.
what do you think about it?
thanks bye

I had to increase the shell bottom thickness in Cura to 2.2 mm so the inner cylinder is sealed with the base.

Good luck cleaning it from the dust
Nice one though

Rinse it off with water?

There's something that is just not making sense to me...
The first vase layer is just too high from the bottom it's just floating. Anyone has any suggestion?

Fixed it by starting with 8 layers at the bottom, i previously had 4

Thanks for posting this! I had 4 bottom layers, was watching it after layer 8 and went, "OH BOY, that's not good hahaha." Then found your comment!

Hey, In cura in "layers" mode it will only show the first 10 or so layers. any explanation?

mine shows all the layers and the internal "tube" but only printed the fins.

Tried using the spiralize outer contour, but then it didn't print the bottom and the fins were a mess.

When I open the file in Simplify3D, it shows a significant number of supports - I can't seem to remove them, anyone else have this issue? When I watched the youtube video, there were no supports printed?

you should be printing in vase mode and no supports. Search Simplify3D vase mode and you will find instructions.

For everyone having trouble getting it watertight (like me), just lit up a candle and pour a good amount of wax into the vase and roll around till it hardens evenly, use matching color for best result. This way i got my vase tight in 2 minutes

That is an excellent idea!

We printed one of the double-waisted ones on a MakerGear M2, using white filament. It is a fascinating object that people cannot put down.

Want to make this SPRIAL VASE look even cooler ?!? Check out this sweet remote controlled LED light for this 3D print!


I want to print this, but I don't know what settings to use for best results. I started the print, but had to stop because the print looked terrible. I am using Cura 15.04.6.

what sli3r settings make it water proof?

Do you believe that in ABS the water retention would be 100% efficient? In PLA the water comes out in the bottom. Thanks.

with or without supports?

haha with supports? You mean for every ridge??? 3h printing time and 50h support removal time? :D

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I'm doing a conference and I have a stand at Lille's MakerFaire and I want to use your model in a powerpoint and print an exemple on my stand can I make it please

IANAL, but as long as you give credit it should be fine.

Would love to see a 2-color version of these with alternating color "fins."

Hey Guys,
I've printed some of these genius vases.. I love it.

But now I want a bigger one.. like around 30cm (150%)
But the problem is, that the printing time will explode because the wall thickness is bigger than 2 Lines (with nozzle .4mm)

Any ideas?

Old comment, but you could set some negative horizontal expansion on your printer, so that all of the walls shrink inward.

It's so beautiful , Thanks!

This worked out great for me! A beautiful piece!

I tried this with "vase" mode in Simplify3D and it was bad. Made fins and just strings in-between. I have been trying one in PLA but the rear facing fins are deformed. Trying it in ABS now. Would love to hear some settings for S3D.

It appears that the only way to make 15.x version of Cura to slice it without a lot of retractions and unnecessary infills is to artificially inflate the shell thickness to slightly above the nozzle size. The following settings produce a good slicer output for the smaller version (150mm height):

Layer Height: 0.3
Shell Thickness: 0.48 (the nozzle is actually 0.4)
Bottom/Top Thickness: 0.6
Fill Density: 0%

Unfortunately, Cura doesn't like printing the bottom, it always just omits it (the sliced result has no bottom). Other than that, your settings worked fine for me, thanks.

Thanx for the info!! Worked perfect with your settings!! :-)

Or you can simply turn on spiralize and use 0.4mm shell thickness.

Have you tried this? Don't want to waste a ton of filament : )

Yes, I did that and it turned out beautifully on my Wanhao Duplicator i3.

I just did the same with spiralization and 0.4 on my Robo 3D. Printing really well so far.

Awesome! Gonna try it out!

Tried spiralization in Cura earlier as well. Probably did something wrong as I ended up with non-bonding spaghetti of layers.

How was these modeled? I'm looking into making something like this myself. I was just wondering if they were scripted, or modeled manually. If they were made manually, which program did you use for the design? If scripted, could you maybe share some code?
Thanks :)

Cant print these... With spiralize on, the quality is SO BAD it hurts.... Without spiralise i get so much strings even with retraction on :|

Using a BQ Prusa i3 Hephestos with a 0.4 nozzle btw

I had this issue (i also own a BQ hephestos) you have to set 0% infill and set correctly your retraction settings to avoid strings!

great design.
i have 0.4 nozzle and when i slice it with cura it tries to fill the gap with dots and it ruins the print.
should i scale the model or do you have a 0.4 nozzle stl?

I printed one right now, very beautiful, BUT the water is coming out on the buttom.
What can I do to prevent this next time I print it?

Best regards

Put a few drop of superglue onto the end of the tube then shake it and wait for a while.

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Im going to do that on my M3D with 50 microns resolution (12h print). Lets see what happens

how'd this work for you and hows the quality? I have a M3D also. Thanks!

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This must be my absolute favorite of all things I've tried on thingiverse. The design is pure brilliant and comes out really good! I could scale it down by 0.6 and still slice it with Simplify3D. Thanks!

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I tried to slice one of these with slic3r using pretty much the default settings and after two an a half a hours it was still generating perimeters with no change in the progress bar.
How long does it take to slice this?

Just couple of minutes. be sure you set the extrusion thicknes to 0,35mm - it should work then.

I had some weird settings. Indeed it takes a couple of minutes.

Cura seems to generate much more efficient g code for printing these shapes than Slic3r does.

For either slicer, I've had to print directly from my PC (SD should work too) - something about these models cause issues with OctoPrint, resulting in 100% CPU use (on a Raspberry Pi) and a stalled print.

I've only tried printing in ABS so far and am getting beautiful results from my not-very-calibrated Printrbot Simple (0.4mm nozzle).

0.3mm layer height
(I think these are all defaults below)
0.8mm shell thickness
0.6mm top/bottom thickness
15% infill overlap

I'm printing reasonably slowly - 45mm/s. Filament is 235 for first layer and 220 for additional layers. Bed at 100.

Me too, I don't even know what it means to slice a 3D design.

Slicing is where you take a 3D model and generate layering instructions for the printer. The software "slices" the 3D model into layers.

It can take a long time with more complex models.

I'm fairly certain they mean 3 hrs 30 minutes.

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Hey I have a .3 and .4 nozzle but not .35 what wall thickness should I use, and which nozzle

you have to use "spiralize" option in your slicer to get these fast print speeds on any printer.

Cool! What printer and settings did you use to print it in 3:30min? My printrbot says it wil take 5 hours... (whit "fast" settings)

Same with me. ????

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Wow these are beautiful, could you tell me where you get your filament?

@MichaeID33 He bought it on the Makerbot webste her: http://store.makerbot.com/filament

Wow, these are gorgeous.