Heated Print Bed

by JakeV Nov 26, 2010

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Would you need an ac/dc power converter to power this or can it run on an alternating current? I'm a noob when it comes to electronics.

The temperature meter and the thermocouple from Omega are the perfect tools to set op a heated platform, thanks JakeV.

I did not know however how to power up the MK2 RepRap heatbed.

I found the solution after searching on the internet.

I am using an ATX PC powersupply 450 W 19A.

It works great!

The only thing to prevent damage to the heated bed is to use some fuses, I am thinking of....

Hi JakeV,

I just bought the temperature meter pane and the thermocouple you are using but 220Vac (Netherlands) instead.

I already have a RepRap PCB heatbed MK2, that will be no problem to use instead of your heater?
Can I use your schematics with these changes?



Hi! I am not familiar with that system and would not feel comfortable making any recommendations without seeing it.

I can say that the controller is a simple on-off controller and will simply turn off when the thermocouple reaches the desired temperature.

I hope this helps...

I made one of these, not sure why Thingiverse won't le me say that I did. I haven't installed it yet but it seems to work great. It took me a while to figure out how to operate the controller but I think I have it figured out.

Do you have any suggestions for settings that I should change?


The controller operation involves setting your desired temperature. Do this by pressing set twice and changing the temp with the arrows. In order to get back to the current temperature press set and the down arrow at the same time. I really didn't change any settings.

Lately I have been doing
my prints at around 120 C. I also use a laser thermometer to verify the print surface temp.

Keep us posted!

I got the Heated Bed installed and prited my first test item, I set the bed for 200 F the same as what my current heated bed was capable of and the results were great, I am going to test it tomorrow at 248 F and see if I can get some of my more trouble prints like the Mendel Z Tensioner to print without lifted corners. I should also mention that my heated bed uses glass plates held down with vacuum as the print surface. A layer of Kapton on the glass works great for ABS.

That looks really good. A couple days ago I started printing on to kapton tape. I found that works well except when printing without a raft it can be tricky to remove the part.

This week I plan on making a thermal insulator for the underside of the heater. That should save a little energy.

Did you make all the parts for that printer yourself?

I've been using Kapton for over a year now and it works great, it can be a little difficult at times to remove prints. I use a 4" putty knife that I have sharpened to help. The only downside is sometimes I ruin the Kapton and have to lay down a new layer, I can usually get the tape to last a week.

I started with an existing CNC machine and modified it into a 3D printer. I did machine all of the custom parts to convert the CNC myself on our Bridgeport.

Did anyone get the heater working? I just got some Kapton film today and am going to try and print onto it.

Just ordered this set of parts for my RepStrap. Unfortunately I won't have them for 8 weeks becuase the Flexible Heater was on backorder. But it should be worth the wait.

My order is on the way!

Awesome! Hopefully you experience the same good results that I have.

Were you ever able to get this working??

Very nice setup. I am surprised that you have the temperature set so high to remove warping. Is that the max temp you can pull off with this setup or how deep into the testing stages are you?

The temperature at the thermocouple isn't the temp of the print surface. I need to get an infrared thermometer to compare the thermocouple temp to the surface temp.

I haven't finished testing so I am not sure on the most effective temperature yet. I am not sure of the max temp either.

I have had a chance to complete some testing and found that 160 F works well for most prints. I found this temperature with a laser thermometer.

Excellent - Need results - does it work?

The heater I purchased came with the optional pressure sensitive adhesive (PSA). If you do want to purchase it with the PSA then the part number KH-808/10-P is the correct one. It is an 8 inch square heater with a heat flux of 10 watts/in^2 and PSA. The '-P' is the section of the part number that represents the PSA so by leaving this off one could get a heater without the PSA.

I just placed the thermocouple in between the heater and the aluminum plate, and adhered the heater around it. I am not sure if this is the best way but it is working for me.

Let me know how your turns out.

I haven't had any warping yet. I am running the heater at 140 F, but have not verified the actual temperature with another thermometer.

I am very pleased so far.

Before I take the plunge - how did you adhere the heater to the build platform?