Solidoodle Z-Stop with Nut Trap

by Claghorn, published

Solidoodle Z-Stop with Nut Trap by Claghorn Oct 18, 2014
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Z-Stop for solidoodle modified to use a M3 nut so loctite blue will work better between the nut and the z screw. Prevents vibration from making the Z setting change (or helps prevent it, anyway).

I've now updated the files with the v2 version that provides more support for the nut (because the nut popped out of my original :-).

I needed a really short version, which led to the v3 files. This version makes sure the mounting bolt heads will fit even if they might otherwise intersect the bar holding the z screw.


This is a remix of muddtt's thing 162400 using openscad.
More details at: http://tomhorsley.com/hardware/solidoodle/solidoodle-z-stop.html

For the v2 version, I had to sand a little bit off the side of the bar supporting the nut because the extra wall thickness scraped the print bed carriage.

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Very nice work. Do you have any interest in making a lowered version similar to this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:135575 ?

This would be useful for those of us who use an E3D that sits lower than the stock hot end. Or perhaps you could post the source files and I could modify it? (if you used sketchup). Thanks.

Solidoodle 3 Extended Z Stop (For use with E3D hot end)

I used openscad - the source file is there, and all you need to do is fiddle with the boltheight variable at the top of the file to change the height it prints at.

Thanks! I have barely used openscad before but that was pretty easy.

nut socket on underside/on bottom would make it better as it would not rely on glue holding nut from being pushed out when leveling only hold it from falling out or could set it deep enough underneath to use a hot iron to melt plastic over edges of nut to retain it without glue. thats how Solidoodle should have done original part too.

I thought about putting it on the bottom, but that was harder to print, and with the J-B Weld epoxy I used, I don't think it is coming out without breaking the part :-).