Herringbone Geared Extruder

by rhys-jones Dec 11, 2010
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What extruder is this designed for? Will it work for E3D?

I try to find a hobbed bolt M8 70mm long, but it is difficult.
Most of the time, this is 55mm one. I found up to 65mm. But not 70mm.
Do you have a buying place for me?

In the STL it isn't the herringbone gear, Would you add the right file please?


In some versions of Solid Edge files?
compatible with SW ST7

The BOM http://reprap.org/wiki/Herringbone_Extruder_Driver lists an 8mm x 30 mm rod (probably for the idler wheel axis).

The place for it in the idler part measures only 20 mm, though. Or am I disoriented about the correct location?

The 30mm bolts that I purchased according to the listing at least don't match anywhere.


One day and the purchase of 8 x 20 rods later: They are still too long. The seat for the little rod is actually exactly 21mm long. The rods (DIN 7, ISO 2338) have round caps that can be up to 1.5mm high.
Next trip to the supplier: get 8 x 18mm rods. Oh well...


Second edit:
An 8 x 18 piece of rod is the perfect match. They are available for small change. In German, they are called "Zylinderstift", in English probably 'cylinder pin'
/Second edit

so i guess the steps per mm are about 780?

How do I attach a hotend to it ? I need to know how because if I can't, I won't print it at all.

Hi! Sorry my bad english!
How to adapt LM8UU x carriage? Any project?

Come on!
The large driven gear part without holes is upside down!
How can one do a circle inside a hole 5mm in the air???
The non-holed part if printed upside-down and with 0.3 infill is half the print time btw...

So flip it yourself dude...

Do the mounting holes and the location of the filament hole still fit the Thing-O-Matic or are the versions >july 2011 Reprap specific?

I made one, but with the springs I have (from a INTEL Cpu cooler) it's impossible to load material into the thing - it's just too tight between the bearing and the bolt. So I loosen the screws to get the filament in to the pinch, and then have to re-tighten the 4 spring screws to make it hold firmly....

That is quite beautiful.

I finished building my copy of this thing last night, for the record I printed the gears in PLA on a Mendel with 100% infill and the small gear printed fine. The main problem I had was with the driven gear, if it's even slightly warped due to printing without a heat-bed or printing with less than 100% infill then there's a chance that the bolt won't sit perfectly straight. If that happens then the gear wobbles slightly as it rotates...not a big deal with standard gears but a big problem with herringbone ones thanks to their self-centering nature.

I also had a problem mounting this on Buback's OpenX carriage (thing #6278). The driven gear dips slightly below the base of the main block which limits the number of alternate carriages it can be mounted on.

Overall though this is a great extruder, a bit more finicky to put together than the ot
hers I've built but a very sturdy design and the best one I've made so far.

What's the gear ratio here?

Definitely the coolest thing we've printed so far here at PSU :D Check it out: http://reprap.org/wiki/Etherdais_Unit_Onehttp://reprap.org/wiki/Etherda...

Yay! I can't wait to finally solve the bloody repsnapper issue I'm having to be able to print the last part and finally mount the sucker :).

Did you say it caused your machine to lock up during the print? I've found this with the latest version of the FiveD firmware. I've rolled back to an older release, and it seems to have fixed the issue....

I'm using the free rhino 5 beta and it seems to be lacking STEP support although rhino 4 can do STEP, maybe I'm being stupid somewhere. Would you mind uploading in IGES? I've had luck with that in the past, it would be nice if there were a universally good format

Done. Sorry I was a little slow:D

I haven't been near my PC for a few days. I'll be back with it tomorrow. I'll upload IGES asap

I was wondering if your Herringbone design may start off a leadscrew or direct drive approach. A horizontal fitting drivetray may evolve and replace the belt on X altogether. Nice work by the way, I like very much the drawing you made.

Awesome! Is it actually working as well as the original Bowden/Wade versions?

It seems to be. I've only ever used Adrian's but I'm getting equally good results. Araspitfire claims he is getting equal results to his Wade's. I think the bearings could do with being a little better constrained though. Araspitfire did a fix which helps that I uploaded (thing 5134), but when I get a sec I'll do some thing more elegant.

I made one of the driven gear just for fun. I love the design.

Could someone make an Imperial version of this? :'( USA is so backwards when it comes to measuremenrs

Agreed! I'm trying to use metric in my designs because our measurement system makes absolutely no sense. How are we still basing our measurements off of the length of some dude's foot? Ridiculous!

It isn
´t a Herringbone, its a Tank ;)

What did you model this in? Do you have solidworks files for these design?

If you do want the solid edge files and get impatient, they are on RepRap's svn


        I have looked on http://Reprap.orgReprap.org but was unable to find your files. If you upload a zip file of all of the Solidedge files I will convert them to Solidworks files.

Done, feel free to post them up as a derivative. Or If you email them to me I'll post them up here

rhys, what version of solid edge was made in ?

interesting question... :)

I modelled it in Solid Edge. I can upload the files if you wish, but I have included a STP which you should be able to open and edit in any CAD package.

what's the advantage of having gears to look like that? The v shape.

I was sleeping, I only posted it 8 hours ago:D

As Sublime says, the self center and the gears are always in contact. This removes backlash and makes them quieter.

The teeth always have even contact (removes backlash) and they self center.

i guess he's too busy to answer his own questions.