Printable MK5 replacement filament drive

by natetrue Dec 16, 2010
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This works well. Everything lined up and fit together with very slight modifications. I ended up reaming out the feeder barrel with a 1/8" drill bit, though. If you make any changes, I think the section that holds the bolt for the pusher should be beefed up a little bit. Maybe make that whole section a lit thicker, since that's where most of the force is. Thanks! You saved me some cash with this design.

I've added this to my big list of ToM upgrades at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6443http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

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by carmiac

The picture of your cracked Mk5 makes me paranoid. I feel like I should print one of these replacements while I still can!

It's cracked, not shattered. I have cracks in mine but it still works. It looks like his should still work even though it don't look pretty.

When I executed this repair, before I shored it up with wire, it was definitely cracked to the point of not being able to print any more.

After a couple weeks using this, I still think it's genius. I'd like to just mention for the record that it does add a little more resistance to the filament than the stock MK5 setup; this probably isn't an issue for most people.

Natetrue; I have two questions for you if you ever check this:

a) Do you know why the mesh is broken for use in OpenSCAD? See my comment here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6362http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...
b) Are you the same natetrue who made the TIME FOUNTAIN? I've loved that thing for year(s?).


a) I used Blender to create the part, and it has a nasty habit of making non-manifold meshes from otherwise valid Boolean operations. Skeinforge deals well with the anomalies (which are often small and localized) so I didn't sweat it. Sometimes I do scrub the meshes afterward, which I enjoy but I didn't this time. I might pull it up and repair it though now that you asked.

b) Yes, that is me, and I do have some plans for a printable Time Fountain in the near future :)

And now the STL is fixed - it should render well in OpenSCAD now.


I thought this design was pretty cool but knowing you're THE TIME FOUNTAIN GUY makes me feel like I'm talking to a celebrity.

For the record, whatever you changed did solve the error I was getting in OpenSCAD, and replaced it with an even nastier one. The console just says, "ERROR!!!!!!!!!!!
!!!!!!!!!" and the GUI says something about facings and windings... I dunno. It doesn't happen 'till you go to render CGAL, a necessary step in exporting STL.

That's academic to me, though -- I appreciate you updating the model so quickly but I've already forged ahead with the design I want to m
ake starting from scratch ( http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6402http://www.thingiverse.com/thi... ) - but heavily inspired by your design of course.

MK5 Wade's-Style Tensioner

As you can see, I printed one to work with a stepper driven gearing. This filament drive is a great part and I absolutely love the design. My only complaint, at least in my configuration, there's not quite enough room for the plunger. It all fits but it's very tight and I cannot pull the filament out by hand even with the plunger bolt removed. Instead I have to roll the big gear backwards by hand.

Perhaps things would fit nicer if I were using the original motor, but I'm not sure, should provide the same clearances.

Other than that, total genius!

And I dunno who in their right mind would slot the bearing from the other side; I know that's what the instructions say but I didn't do it that
way on the original either. Put it in the easy way and slide the motor pin through into it. If this falls out when I eventually get it wired up for regular printing (lots of trouble with the RepG/firmware to connect it to the A Axis of a TOM... see wiki forums), I'll let you know, but it seems per
fectly solid.

The reason I had to put the bearing in from the other side is that for some reason my bearing is a bit small, so I really have to force it on the motor shaft. And it does not come off easily so I find it much easier to just leave it on the motor.

make it fit on dinos?

Printed out very easy and looks good... I've added it as a spare just in case...

I think this has become my next print. Any reason it shouldn't work with a geared stepper adapter for the Mk 5, such as http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5164http://www.thingiverse.com/thi... ?

Should work just fine, though I have not tested the stepper screwholes. This replacement box fits into the same bounding box as the MK5 filament drive and has screwholes and parts in the exact same places.

I like this. Don't need so many screws, and I can easily reproduce it in cases like you had with a cracked MK5.

That looks really nice. One upgrade that I would suggest is to extend the sleeve for the bearing out a few more mm so after the bearing is installed you can heat the plastic with a lighter then press it into the bearing locking it in the extruder. I have had bearing pop out with one of my printruder2.

How's that tmo? post photo please

-Merlinj aka jim mcc

you can kind of see it in this one although it was not designed for it. i installed the bearing then heated the plastic around it with a lighter (just put the lighter near the plastic, dont touch the flame to it. if it catches on fire it burns like crazy and covers the pat in black soot that you cannot remove) once its a little bit soft then you can use something to squish the plastic around the bearing. it completely locks it in place forever.

I could also probably add a bridge to the top of it, like I added a bridge to keep the plunger from falling out. Since the bearing is inserted from the rear it would for sure keep it in.

nice i didn't realize it was installed from the rear.