Loading

Prusa i3 Z-Axis support brackets

by Tech2C, published

Prusa i3 Z-Axis support brackets by Tech2C Nov 16, 2014
6 Share
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Order This Printed View All Apps

Contents

Liked By

View All

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag.

Print Thing Tag

Thing Statistics

10958Views 2290Downloads Found in 3D Printer Parts

Summary

The Prusa i3 frame isn't supported at the top, therefore it may oscillate or vibrate during a print.
So here is a set of brackets that will support the top of the Prusa i3 frame to the Y-Axis threaded rods.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wlJzWys8nuY

Added 6mm versions for smaller threaded rod support of 5-6mm.

Instructions

Print at 0.3mm with 30% infill.
The top bracket mounting holes line up with the existing holes for the z-axis linear rod support. You will need longer M3 screws to accommodate the extra thickness the bolt will have to travel through - 25mm length is good.
For the bottom bracket, you will need to install a longer length of 10mm threaded rod by an extra 200mm. This will allow 100mm extra to extended on either side of the frame that the bottom bracket can fix onto.
Finally you will need 8-10mm threaded rod with length of 350mm to connect the top and bottom brackets together. Tighten with nuts on either side of the brackets.

More from 3D Printer Parts

view more

All Apps

Auto-magically prepare your 3D models for 3D printing. A cloud based 3D models Preparing and Healing solution for 3D Printing, MakePrintable provides features for model repairing, wall thickness...

App Info Launch App

Kiri:Moto is an integrated cloud-based slicer and tool-path generator for 3D Printing, CAM / CNC and Laser cutting. *** 3D printing mode provides model slicing and GCode output using built-in...

App Info Launch App
KiriMoto Thing App

With 3D Slash, you can edit 3d models like a stonecutter. A unique interface: as fun as a building game! The perfect tool for non-designers and children to create in 3D.

App Info Launch App

Print through a distributed network of 3D printing enthusiasts from across the US, at a fraction of the cost of the competitors. We want to change the world for the better through technology, an...

App Info Launch App

Treatstock is an online platform that offers decentralized manufacturing services such as 3D printing and CNC machining for clients all over the world. We offer free and instant access to comparati...

App Info Launch App

3D print your favourite design with NinjaPrototype, a professional 3D manufacture with consistent quality and speed.

App Info Launch App

This support brackets are better:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:462157

Prusa i3 Frame Brace
by eychu

Ironically enough I've basically made the same design on my own, though I complicated it massively by making the top part one piece with the other part in front holding the rods, and I made it hinged instead of a fixed angle: http://imgur.com/a/ZUFGI#0 (excuse the mess, old pictures) Though my design had a problem in that it didn't really help much until I added an additional set of y-corner parts at the ends of the extended rod bolted to the plastic part holding the diagonal brace (without the y corners there to touch the table the rod ends vibrated a bit), and zip-tied the diagonal brace rod to the frame near the top and near the bottom (one zip tie around the rod, one around the frame, one joining them, all very taught), I have theories that it's because 2x nearly parallel structures doesn't add much rigidity but a triangle does, does this design have a similar shortcoming? If not I wonder what differences in my design caused that problem, the hinges are screwed tight so they shouldn't functionally differ from your solid ones when tightened down, the brace rod feels pretty solid in there. If yours work better I'm tempted to print them, my rods should work fine with them, though I'm kinda tempted to ditch the threaded rods and laser cut frame and go t/v-slot 2020 extrusions, openbuilds and their resellers sell a kit of 12x 50cm v slot extrusions for €50~ with 90 degree brackets, t-slot nuts ahd the bolts for them included.

Well, let me start by saying that is 1 big wall of text!

Now I'm not sure what your question is? The photo's of your design should produce the same results as my design, that is to eliminate the top of the z-axis frame from oscillating during a print.

I plan at some stage to build a new printer, and I have seen those aluminium extrusions before which I think would be ideal. Although I'd have to check the local hardware store for a cheaper alternative, even steel would suffice. In fact a steel frame would be an ideal solid structure to house a moving x/y/z carriage and minimize vibrations.

Ah yeah sorry I tend to ramble, my design is similar to yours but it didn't seem to help much until I did this: http://i.imgur.com/GzlzcOH.png (please excuse the terrible photo) I added a y corner and zip ties, wondered if your design had the same problem or not.

Oh ok, I understand what you mean.
Well, first try slowing down your print speed. If that doesn't help, then try my bracket supports. Slowing down should definitely help though.

Comments deleted.

Hey Tech2C! I've been using your design for months now and I LOVE it! :)

Hey gadgetgreg! Glad you've been enjoying them. Thought I should post them here for others to use too.

It's a simple but effective design! I had to drill mine out to accommodate "standard"-sized rods because "standard" is more readily available and cheaper here in the US...

I really like this design but noticed that it is for m10 I have been using m8 rods. I would just modify the files myself but still unfamiliar with the best way to convert stl to a file I can modify, currently trying to use a combo of sketch up and meshlab to no avail, the sizes get totally messed up when I do the conversions, do you have any recommendations on good free programs?

The M8 rod will work fine with the larger holes as the nuts are wider than the M10 holes.
I just added an M6 version too.

Top