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schlem

3D Printer Enclosure

by schlem Feb 27, 2013
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.093" thick is 3/32, not 1/8. If i bought 1/8" thick instead of 3/32", does the 3d printed pieces that fit through the plexi become affected?

Probably. You can easily cobble up a 3D printed shim.I don't think it's critical.

lol go to local dollar store buy 7 sheets of clear corrugated board for 3$ each lol make the same thing with some packing tape! 20$

And a cardboard box is free. However, it's not the same thing.

"There's nothing cute or funny or lovable about being cheap. It's a total turn-off."
Douglas Coupland

Hi, friend! I have same problem with printer and wife... It's a worldwide problem. Thanks for idea! I'm under way to make same case. But I intend to move the Y-axis engine to front of axis. It will allow me to make a little small box. I suppose, about 2 inch less..

3DPrintClean is developing an Odor and Ultrafine Particle filtration attachment for DIY enclosures. Would make a great addition. See http://3dprintclean.com/3dprintclean-scrubber.htm - Disclosure, I am the founder of 3DPrintClean.

This is Exactly what I was looking for! I am having trouble with warping abs on cool days, anyone tried heating the enclosure breifly to get it nice and toasty?

I have a 100W bulb in mine and a thermometer that hits 100F + even on the coldest days. I put a can around the light bulb as a heat/light shield and this works well. FWIW, the vent I designed seems to be worthless for this endeavor.

I've found drilling the holes through with the hole saws is easiest if you use a spool of filament's center as the backing and another spool to hold the other side of the sheet level. It cuts through effortlessly like this.

That's a great idea! I need to build a proper enclosure for my Lulzbot, but it's so much larger, I will need to adapt this design to keep the heated volume to a reasonable size.

Here's a tip:

I have found on very cold days (below freezing) that my control board cannot read the thermistors and throws an error code. This error state will not allow the controller to pre-heat the bed or extruder. I put a 100W incandescent lamp in a porcelain fixture and put a vented coffee can over the bulb. I stuck this "heater' inside the enclosure, in the corner. The can blocks the light in your eyes so you can watch your print. It also keeps radiant heat from impinging directly on the plexiglas and reradiates the heat. I find that my printer heats up much faster, and I can maintain a 100°F/40° C environment inside the box, on even the coldest day. Finding incandescent bulbs will be challenging, but halogen bulbs are still available, and - good for this purpose - run hotter than conventional bulbs.

it sames 5 acrylic sheets... but what about the 6th side? or was that a typo?

The surface that the printer rests upon is the sixth side. Fastening the corners of the box to the work surface makes the whole noodly thing very stable. No need to put plexi under the printer.

I have some tinkering / tuning projects in my future... and a cache of Sugru, I will endeavor to refasten my thermistor with some. Is it stable at 100 degrees C? I also have a fan to mount. One easy thing I did was to slip a square of aluminum foil under the heated bed- my bed floats on neoprene washers, and I think that the foil helps reflect radiated heat back up into the heated bed (and thermistor)

I had similar issues with the print bed not heating. I made a couple of changes that improved the situation significantly. 1.) I applied the thermistor to the bottom of the heat bed using heat-resitstant silicone adhesive (sugru) 2.) I noticed that the temperature of the head bed would dip (and typically not recover) when the extruder kicked on. I upgraded to a 500W ATX Power Supply and haven't had that problem since. 3.) I've added glass for printing ABS, and a frosted acrylic sheet for printing with PLA. Again, I think the thermal mass here helps with ABS. With PLA, I heat the bed minimally (35C) because my place gets pretty cold, but the PLA adheres strongly to the surface. Heating the acrylic sheet to the 110C or so required for ABS makes it warp, so I switch to glass for that. Someday I'll probably get a piece of sandblasted borosilicate, but since window glass is ~1/20th the cost, I'm just going with the painters tape on glass approach.

Between the more accurate measurement (the sugru provides a better contact and a little more thermal mass than the suggested method of attaching with Kapton) and sufficient power supply, I haven't had problems with the heat bed anymore.

I've also added the laser-cut bed-leveling kit and the fan, which both seem crucial to getting a decent print. The bed leveler is nice also in that if you crash Z , or sometimes if you're printing something that curls a little and the print head starts clipping it, you've got enough give that it will probably survive in decent shape, and will definitely not rip the print off the bed.

Awesome -- and a blast to read. :) Thanks for the shout-out.

You can drill acrylic sheet, but you just need to go very slowly with a sharp bit and apply very little pressure or it'll explode. skull knob ftw