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RoboBaggins

Iris Box v2

by RoboBaggins Jan 15, 2011
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I made this today. The holes in the lid (ring) were not big enough for the pegs coming up underneath, so I had to ream them out a bit with a drill bit. Then as mentioned by others there were no pins for the bottom. I printed the same pegs at 90% and then used them in the lower holes (in the body). I still had to enlarge those holes some as well. Really enjoyed the challenge of putting this together; that's for sharing! I made one in orange / blue (Denver Broncos colors) for my mom for her birthday. Shhh...don't tell her. :)

Nice. The top looks kind of like a Stargate, and it even has an iris like the Stargate. I'm going to pretend it is.

Where are the little peg pieces that go in the cup? I printed all the different parts you listed but I only have the pegs for the iris pieces but none for the little pieces sticking up out of the cup in your picture.

How are some of you printing the base? I've tried both with and without a raft, no success.

Wow, I was regular base just as you have it, upside down, and it was taking a while. The whole time I am thinking "I know it's going to mess up on the overhang and it is going to suck to have to reprint it right side up". But to my surprise, It didn't really sag at all. Now I just need to put it all together, I hope it works.

Hope people are still reading this.

Awesome design! But it looks like my CupCake isn't quite up to it. The 5 shutter array printed out fine. But when I try to print the peg array, I end up with a blobby mess. Short of upgrading my MK5 Plastruder with a stepper motor, does anyone have any suggestions on how to cut down on the ooozeba
ne?

add 2 small computer fans to the platform (one in front and one in back of the extruder. really helps on tall narrow pints

First, you need to print with a raft for the pegs (I don't know if you are or not). Also, try lowering the temperature of the HPB if you are using one, so the plastic can cool by the next layer.

Failing these, you could try to use M3x14 screws in place of the pegs (I haven't tried this, but they are the same size).

I didn't expectit to work so well! Granted, I took a dremel carving bit that just happens to be almost exactly 3mm and went over most of the holes, but it only took a few seconds. I then used a bit of hot glue to make sure the 3mm pegs were inserted into the base solidly, and a bit of TESTORS brand plastic model glue in the top ring holes to make sure the pegs were solid.

The action on this is smooth and reliable. Totally perfect. Printing out the base is a 2hr epic, but if you have your skeinforge params even close to right, bridging the large bottom is no problem.

Printed on a Thing-O-Matic.

I should probably also mention in the interest of fairness, the first time I went to print the base, my printer failed to bridge at all, instead filling the slots with plastic, not hitting the sides at all. I retuned all my Skeinforge params, but I think the one that made the real difference was the setting for perimeter overlap (I forget the name, I'm so sorry!) under STRETCH.

Path stretch over... something. That should help. I think I set it to a hefty 1.0.

I'm in the process of making one of these (the ring is printing right now, everything else is done). I printed the base right side up and it seemed to have more trouble with the overhang on the bottom (though not too bad) than it did in the slots. It's turning out beautiful in PLA. The pins are needing a bit of cleanup to get them to fit though.

How do you print the base? It looks like you print it with the open side down? How does that work with overhang, is it bridging?

I print the base upside down because of the overhangs in the slots.

The inside of the base may sag a little based on your settings, buy mine was fine.

Very nice! Go to my Iris Box and say you made one. Then you can link this as a derivative.

It's beautiful. Elegant design.

I have yet to print this but I must say, Nice.