Loading

E3D v6 Adapter for Printrbot Simple Metal

by Aistaca, published

E3D v6 Adapter for Printrbot Simple Metal by Aistaca Nov 23, 2014
10 Share
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Order This Printed View All Apps

Use This Project

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag.

Print Thing Tag

Thing Statistics

25548Views 2013Downloads Found in 3D Printer Accessories

Summary

I'm currently ovserseas where internet access is very limited, and of course I don't have my printer with me. I will not be able to reply quickly as I used to, nor will be able to modify firmware for a while. I apologize for this inconvenience. (and sorry for bad English)

This is a spacer put on top of E3D v6 hotend to accommodate the short length. You need to have the PTFE tube 5mm longer from the hotend to be fit on the adapter. If the PTFE slot too tight you might need to skin your tube a bit. Note that there will only be small amount of surface on the hotend that gripped on the aluminium extruder. Mine grips pretty well, but if it's not gripping properly then you will need to glue the adapter on your hotend (recommended using araldite, this is irreversible).

Changelog:
(19/1/2015) MK2 model: improve filament fitting hole to slide in easily, adjust the size of the hole to fit the PTFE tube
(15/6/2015) Added new firmware: not working properly yet
(2/8/2015) updated firmware: fix 4x4 grid probing to 2x2
(7/6/2016) updated firmware: 3x triangular probing, longer extrusion oozing prevention, auto-fan for motors
(22/6/2016) fix wrong XY endstop config
(24/6/2016) fix wrong Z-probe offset
(30/6/2016) added new firmware for newer Printrbot version (inverted endstop)
(1/7/2016) fix most bugs, lessen oozing extrusion and raise temp trigger, better extruder steps (more accurate extrusion), more aggressive bed temp control

Print Settings

Printer Brand:

Printrbot

Printer:

Simple Black

Rafts:

Doesn't Matter

Supports:

Doesn't Matter


Notes:

My Cure preset if you are interested: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/jolgp1pzsvxo00l/AABySTYDDXDvJbpSy_9oMNaxa?dl=0

Backup your current preset first, then load up my preset. Learn my start and end gcode, it might save you from oozing problem (maybe?). Please note that this preset can change at anytime without notice.

Instructions

Step-by-step instruction by Ryan Lutz: http://matterhackers.dozuki.com/Guide/How+to+Install+an+E3D+v6+HotEnd+on+a+Printrbot+Simple+Metal/9

spoon2099 made a pretty good guide here: http://thisoldspoon.blogspot.com.au/2015/03/e3d-v6-hotend-on-printrbot-simple-metal.html

How to re-Flash

  1. download my pre-compiled firmware on here (tested on rev F4 and F5, not on F6):
    for older version Simple Metal:
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/qwucmuxkw0vwbig/Marlin_v1_3USB.cpp.hex?dl=0
    for newer version Simple Metal (mid 2015 above, has reverted Y-endstop):
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/ew2hgmebjk8xc4g/Marlin_v1_3USB_late_2015.cpp.hex?dl=0
    Firmware to be installed with touchscreen upgrade (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1612680): older version only, let me know if you need reverted Y-endstop
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/a4k7gw3bhota0hf/Marlin_v1_3Serial.cpp.hex?dl=0

  2. upload your firmware with Atmel Flip, follow this instruction: http://help.printrbot.com/Guide/How+to+Reflash+Firmware/78

  3. If your Y-axis is moving to the wrong direction (which more likely, some doesn't) invert your motor connector (simply flip the connector)

  4. Adjust your PID parameters: http://reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning

  5. Adjust your Z-axis probe: http://help.printrbot.com/Guide/Setting+Up+Your+Auto-Leveling+Probe+and+Your+First+Print+-+Mac/107

  6. My firmware comes with adjusted 3-point triangular probing, auto-fan for cooling hotend and auto-fan for cooling motors. hotend fan is triggered by pin 3 on EXP1, motor fan on pin 11 EXP2. See instruction below for fan wiring!

How to Wire Fan

follow wiring diagram in the picture, yeah really!

WARNING! MAKE SURE IT IS N-CHANNEL MOSFET AND ALL CORRESPONDING PINS ARE WIRED CORRECTLY

(mosfet Gate to pin G, Drain on pin D and Gain on G), not all mosfet has the same pin layout, always check your datasheet!

The best mosfet for our application is to use logic level mosfet (NOT POWER MOSFET). Some power mosfets work, but I will be cautious of using it.

**What mosfet am I using? MTP3055VL, P16NF06 also works, but seriously any n-channel logic level mosfet should work (as long as voltage-current operating is up to spec)

Source Code

If you are adventurous enough, here's the source code:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/1onx8pu7qoppzs1/AADvD3Jj0P82iKW6eSw9SgmEa?dl=0

Here's the Arduino IDE to compile (windows only, sorry mac users):
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/lm6cuvuus15byha/AAAiW_8mKdYe3IzZA7zgDIwsa?dl=0

To compile:

  1. run Arduino IDE
  2. tools > board > teensylu/printrboard
  3. hold shift and compile (the start/play button on top left)
  4. go to the directory of where the hex file is stored, upload the hex file using Atmel Flip
  5. why using the soo ancient version of arduino ide? this is the only one working for me :(

More from 3D Printer Accessories

view more

All Apps

3D Print your file with 3D Hubs, the world’s largest online marketplace for 3D printing services.

App Info Launch App

Auto-magically prepare your 3D models for 3D printing. A cloud based 3D models Preparing and Healing solution for 3D Printing, MakePrintable provides features for model repairing, wall thickness...

App Info Launch App

Kiri:Moto is an integrated cloud-based slicer and tool-path generator for 3D Printing, CAM / CNC and Laser cutting. *** 3D printing mode provides model slicing and GCode output using built-in...

App Info Launch App
KiriMoto Thing App

With 3D Slash, you can edit 3d models like a stonecutter. A unique interface: as fun as a building game! The perfect tool for non-designers and children to create in 3D.

App Info Launch App

Print through a distributed network of 3D printing enthusiasts from across the US, at a fraction of the cost of the competitors. We want to change the world for the better through technology, an...

App Info Launch App

Quickly Scale, Mirror or Cut your 3D Models

App Info Launch App

3D Print a wide range of designs with Treatstock. Easy to use tools to get the perfect result. The global 3D printing network that connects you with high-quality and fast working print services nea...

App Info Launch App

What is your source code versus the V1.3 usb late 2015?
The pre-compiled firmware works on my printer but I have a different thermistor than the stock e3d v6

Has anyone made a firmware that can be used with the new Prometheus System? I'm not knowledgeable enough to create my own firmware and the step they show are hard to follow. It would be greatly appreciated if it could be done, thanks!!

Mar 17, 2017 - Modified Mar 17, 2017

Is the adapter/firmware compatible with the E3D-Lite6? I also saw comments where the leveling system with the new firmware didn't work- is this true? Also, do you have to update the firmware in order to use this hotend? Thanks.

Hello Aistaca, thank you for the work you've done. I'm trying to learn more about modifying firmware and have a question about why you specifically chose to use pin 37 for the EXTRUDER_0_AUTO_FAN_PIN. Could other pins be used instead or is 37 the only suitable pin for this specific application of switching a MOSFET?

Hi D_Rogers, very sorry for the late reply. To answer your question, it was actually very simple: I tried to wire my printer neatly, and pin 37 happened to be the closest one to the rest of my wires (so it's just cable management preference). YES, you can actually use other pins as well if you wanna use PWM. I figured since the cooling needs to be done at full power anyway, so PWM drived output is not really used. You can use other pin if you wanna PWM your fan, unfortunately, I found Printrboard documentation on pin layout to be somehow confusing. Remember that Printrboard uses Teensy pin mapping, which is different than Arduino pin mapping (and Marlin use Arduino pin mapping). There're documents on how to interface Teensy pins with Arduino IDE, you should check that.

Feb 22, 2017 - Modified Feb 22, 2017

Warning for anyone considering getting the 8mm ACME rod upgrade for the Simple Metal. The firmware image available here has a setting that causes the Z axis stepper motor to disable when it's not in use. The 8mm ACME rod turns so smoothly and easily it lets the arm slip back down when the Z stepper turns off. The stock Printrbot firmware does not disable the Z stepper when it's not in use. I guess the original 1/4" ACME rod has a enough friction to make this work but the 8mm 4-start ACME absolutely doesn't work with the Z stepper turning off between moves.

---Snippet from Printrbot's stock firmware---
// Disables axis when it's not being used.
define DISABLE_X false
define DISABLE_Y false
define DISABLE_Z false
define DISABLE_E false // For all extruders

----Snippet from this custom firmware----
// Disables axis when it's not being used.
define DISABLE_X false
define DISABLE_Y false
define DISABLE_Z true
define DISABLE_E false // For all extruders

I'm going to try compile the firmware this week to change the DISABLE_Z setting back to false.

Can you please post a link to your new firmware? Thanks

Hi Matt448, any luck with compiling the firmware? Care to share with others who has the same issue (maybe)?

Yes! I was able to compile the firmware and changing the setting for the Z stepper did indeed fix the problem I was having. I'm working on putting my changes up in a github repository. I know of two other people who ran into this same problem so there are at least 3 people in the world who have the same combination of hardware that creates this problem. :-)

Comments deleted.

Jimmy, can the firmware be used/modified for a metal plus?

Hi spectre73, sorry for the late reply. Yes, you can modify the firmware to be used for larger bed. You need to recompile it tho (using Arduino IDE if you are familiar with it). Unfortunately, the uncompiled firmware I uploaded since to be very old, which doesn't have any new fix or features (it's a very basic firmware, but you can add your own features in it). Unfortunately, I can't help you with that since I'm away from my printer and my work PC.

Hello Aistaca,

I love the custom firmware, but could you update the source that you've posted for it? It appears that it was last updated ~a year+ ago, so I'd imagine it doesn't reflect the changes in your latest hex releases.

I'd like to change the extruder MAXTEMP to 300 and maybe make a couple other tweaks, but would rather do this with a more recent version. Thanks!

Hi Mooseral, sorry for the very very late reply. The source firmware I uploaded is the very basic firmware which only has modified presets for E3D hotend. Yes, it doesn't have any bug fixes or any other fancy features I did, but you can still add your own features in it (and it's actually very easy to do since most have been done there). I won't be able to upload the new source I'm using for a while since I'm far far away from home at the moment.

Nov 9, 2016 - Modified Nov 9, 2016

I am starting to have another issue with my Printrbot which happened after I upgraded the firmware.. Every few mins, it makes an odd noise.. I can't tell where its coming from, but it sounds like a motor...

It certainly didn't do this before I upgraded to the latest firmware, and wonder if this is an intentional "feature"?

Is there a archive of the older versions that I could try?

I am currently using the lastest firmware which does 3 probes the centre of the bed.. its quick, but i often get a bit of oozing that i cant remove before the print starts.

Is there a version (perhaps older) which still does 3 probes, but in the corners instead?

Can you upload the CAD file for this? I want to get one milled out of aluminum.

unfortunately, I don't have it on my laptop (it's on my work pc). Can you work with STL? It's a fairly simple design, I reckon if you can measure the model you can make a CAD out of it to be milled.

I can help you a bit to make it if you want, but it will take a while since I have limited internet access now. (Probably faster if you make it yourself?)

Sep 26, 2016 - Modified Sep 26, 2016

I fitted my E3D in Nov 2015, and use Aistaca's firmware (9 point sample) and have had no problems since.

A few months back I finally got around to fitting my heated bed and it went OK.. But this weekend, I needed to print a large, narrow object and had real adhesion problems on one corner.

I eventually used a brim to get it to stick, but when it was done I looked at the first layer and it was obvious what the problem was... Where as 70% of the print had a nice smooth finish.. The other 30% (from the affected corner) had visible lines.. Clearly the Hotend was too high, or more likely the bed too low.

I suspect my bed isn't entirely level but I am surprised this caused a problem, as I thought the Auto-Level probe mapped the bed and constantly adjusted the Z axis during printing.

I notice that there have been several new firmwares since and will upgrade, but is it likely any of them will help, or do I need to manually level (shim?) my bed?

Anyone got any suggestions or ideas?

Jon

Oct 10, 2016 - Modified Oct 10, 2016
Aistaca - in reply to jweaver

hi Jon,

First of all I apologize for the late reply, I'm currently in a country where internet access is very limited.

Regarding the auto-bed leveling, it has been discussed before. We all tough that the auto-bed leveling would always level the printing according to the printing surface. Unfortunately, that is not the case.

The software will think that the bed is perfectly flat, just not level. Having a curving bed leveling will put the processing capacity of the printrboard over the limit (or at least that's what I know and trying to figure out). And of course thinking logically, that would make the entire print curving parallel to the bed surface.

Having 9-point grid leveling and 3-point triangle leveling has their own good and bad sides. The grid seems to work the best for large printing as it will average samples, but the 3-point is good for printing small objects (specially within the sampling area). We had so much problems with grid leveling somehow so I turned back to 3-point leveling.

My only advice at the moment is to get your bed as flat as possible, like, maybe, bend it the other way around (at least that's what I did to mine after the airport workers thrown my printer case away).

Of course, if other people has ideas, try it. I'm considering using something very flat like glass, but that might be a while since I'm so far away from my printrbot atm.

One new problem i have found with this new firmware is that the 3 point probing happens in the middle of the bed, and the hotend tends to ooze, right where you are going to print?

Is there a version of FW which is newer than the one i had (late 2015) where probing is done on the edges of the bed?

Nov 12, 2016 - Modified Nov 12, 2016
Aistaca - in reply to jweaver

not that I'm aware of unfortunately. I can always compile a new one, but as I said before, it won't happen soon. You can wait for probably around mid January next year, or you can always compile your own.

I always start the probing with the bed heated and the hotend cold. And when it started doing the probing the hotend is heating up. At the end of probing move the hotend to X0 Y0 Z0.2 to prevent oozing too much. When the hotend is fully heated up it will move to the printing area leaving the oozed filament at X0 Y0.

edit 1: Slic3r do this by default. I assume you are using Cura? I can give you my start & end config if you are interested.
edit 2: I just upload it now https://www.dropbox.com/sh/jolgp1pzsvxo00l/AABySTYDDXDvJbpSy_9oMNaxa?dl=0

Nov 13, 2016 - Modified Nov 13, 2016
jweaver - in reply to Aistaca

Cheers.. I didn't even know it was possible to "probe" before heating.> That would certainly help as much of the problem I have is the spots it leaves on the bed when probing.

I have found out what the "funny noise" is.. Ever so often, the Extruder motor turns for a few seconds VERY slowly.. I have a feeling that this is the feature you added to build pressure, so is a good thing.. Alteast I know what it is.

I still don't fully understand why the current FW only probes a small area in the middle of the bed.. Surely making it probe the corners would be more accurate? But I will try your suggestion of probing first to see if this helps. That said, I am using CURA and am not even sure its possible?

Cheers

Jon

Alright people, new firmware is up!

Auto-level probing is now back to 3-points sampling. This is calibrated to the best setting (at least for me) for printing small to medium objects from the center of the bed. The previous firmware seems only to work correctly if the bed is perfectly level. The new leveling helps reducing the miss-accuracy of leveling on uneven bed. Note that it might not level properly when getting closer to the edge, depends on how your bed curving.

The dripping/ oozing build up pressure feature I implemented before has longer extrusion. This is helpful when you left your hotend hot and plastic starting to drip, the firmware will automatically extrude a few amount at certain time to build pressure.

Finally, a new feature, the motor cooling fan!! Since I moved to another country, the weather here is humid and hot, and required me to cool down the motors. The wiring is the same with the E3D fan using mosfet, this time the signal is triggered on pin 11 EXP2. Had to put it there, cannot use EXP1 port somehow :( The fan will be triggered when any of the motor is moving, and/ or the heatbed is heating and will remain turned on when motor/ heatbed is active and 90 seconds after inactivity.

Will be uploading the octoprint touchscreen upgrade soon if any are interested :)

Great work on this! One thing I noticed: my machine no longer seems to recognize "auto0.g" files loaded to an SD card. Is this functionality no longer supported on this firmware, or is the file formatting just different now?

Ah, right. Thanks for pointing that out. The autostart function (that's what they call it in marlin) is not in my firmware yet. My firmware is based on the older version of marlin (which I found is more stable, somehow) and the autostart was implemented on the version above it. I had planned on recompiling based on the latest build, but it probably won't happen soon as I'll need to move to another country (and my printrbot will stay).

If you really need the autostart function, you may try to compile your own firmware (I'll try to help with that). As long as you are familiar with C++ and Arduino IDE (also basic micro controller knowledge) then you will be fine.

Hey its me again. so I got my e3d V6 in the mail, YAY!, and connected it to my printer without to many problems. but when I complied your hex onto my printer the x axis stops at 150mm. and I have the super x axis with heated bed upgrade so it stops halfway into my print bed. I tried to fix this with the M211 X250 command but that didn't work. do I need a different hex file or is the a easy way to fix this problem. thanks so much for any help.
Cheers

Jul 3, 2016 - Modified Jul 3, 2016
Aistaca - in reply to mindstormcrazy

oh yeah, my firmware has bed limit enabled to that it won't try to run pass through the bed limit (usefull when accidentally print object larger than bed). So your X limit is now 250mm? I'll quickly compile one for you. https://www.dropbox.com/s/tlb1e9v5mbo2y8j/Marlin_v1_3USB_long_bed.cpp.hex?dl=0

ok now I have a different problem. the hotend heats up fine until it reaches about 260-270C and then I get a max temp error, but this hotend is supposed to go to 300C is that a fault on my part or a limit on your part in the hex. thanks

Right, the firmware limits the hotend at 270. The reason for that is if you get the stock thermistor its max temp is actualy around 290, any higher and you'll break it. Now, if you use custom thermistor then it can reach higher on the all metal hotend. Since we are using 1.75mm hotend it has PTFE tube (unlike 3mm version) and in theory PTFE starts to soften at 250. So, theoretically, you should never heats up your hotend above 250. I put 270 as the limit for precaution so it won't catch fire/ damage the hotend while still able to print nylon at 250-260ish.

Hi Aistaca. I'm replying to a July 3rd comment, so sorry if this is no longer relevant. But as I understand it, the E3D-v6 can reach 300C despite the PTFE tubing, because said tubing doesn't extend into the hot regions. This is, they say, one of the main benefits of its design. Here's a quote from their own website (http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6):

"With no PEEK or PTFE in hot regions of our HotEnd we can reach 300C with the supplied thermistor. By swapping a thermistor for a thermocouple (may require additional electronics) you can reach over 400C."

So a 270C limit in the firmware seems a bit unfortunate. But perhaps I'm missing something?

Thank you for pointing that out. I also found it strange that it wasn't able to operate to operate on the specified temperature. My decision was based on my experience, I got burnt tube at the tip touching the heatbreak before at 290C. Probably because I used it in a hot and very humid climate? I'll increase the temp limit for the next firmware and we'll see about it. Unfortunately, it won't happen very soon as I won't be in touch with my printer for a while :(

ahhh ok then. thanks for the warning I was completely oblivious to that. but now that I look into it most filaments are printable in that temp range anyways. thanks for the help!

Oh my gosh. I swear you are the best person in the world thank you so much.

Please always check the latest changelog. The new firmware seems to have some bugs. I am fixing it, but might miss some of it. Please report it to me if you find anything wrong with it. Thank you.

new firmware is up! I've checked & tested everything myself this time, code has been modified from scratch so the bugs from previous firmware has been greatly reduced. Still, let me know if you find any bugs. Cheers!

I flashed your latest firmware but it seems my Y axis endstop value is inverted (Y-axis endstop doesn't do anything)

Thanks you so much for replying so quickly. Thanks also for the new firmware but I seem to have a different issue. The board is not responding to the Y endstop input at all...I tested both my X and Y endstops with a multimeter, both are normally Closed and Open when depressed. So I actually should not need your Y-inverted firmware. I used M119 to see the status of endstops and that's where I realized the Y endstop is not being seen at all. Do you have any idea what could cause this? Or do you think I might have damaged my board?

The easiest solution would be to test with printrbot stock firmware. If that doesn't work then you know it's not the firmware issue. It might be the cable (but you've tested that), the connector (not properly in contact with the board) or the board itself (bad soldering, faulty pull-up resistor or faulty atmega chip).

I loaded the default firmware from printrbot and all endstops work as expected again.

right, seems like firmware issue then. Which version of Printrboard do you use? Mine was tested on F5 (similar to F4 layout as well).

Mine is an F5 as well

I had one of my software guys compile a hex for me from the default firmware, seems to be working fine. Thanx for your effort, really appreciate it.

sorry for not able to help much. I'll re-compile my firmware from scratch, it seems to have something strange in it..

that's strange. I've looked up on the code, it doesn't seems to be inverted (same as X-endstop). It seems that the version from mid-2015 above has Y-endstop inverted when compared to X-endstop (X on NC while Y on NO config). Someone had this problem before. I'll see what I can do.

Hey, thanks for this great model. I uploaded your code to my printrbot and the Y-axis go flipped (i fixed that), but more importantly my limit switches don't do anything, so it appears that the settings in marlin are set to invert the endstop values. Is this on purpose, because I don't know what I screwed up

Is it the X and Y switch got swapped, or the trigger untriggered event is wrong? I'll have a look on the firmware

I did think of swapping the X and Y switches, but it appears the setting to invert the switches in Marlin seems to be enabled

as in trigger becoming un-triggered? Have you tried the latest firmware? I uploaded the fix

I apologize, seems that the config file got jumbled up with the other firmware (the one for touchscreen). The XY endstop port got swapped, so I fixed it on the new firmware. Try uploading the new one.

Jun 22, 2016 - Modified Jun 22, 2016
Simulatedbog545 - in reply to Aistaca

OK, I got it all figured out for my printer. I started from scratch and got a download of marlin and set it up with the correct thermistor settings. For some reason, my printer just really didn't like your .hex firmware file. Regardless, I have a link for the finished .hex file here: {https://www.dropbox.com/s/n8nadltsa99jso7/Printrbot%20Marlin.hex?dl=0}
and the modified source code here if you want a look: {https://www.dropbox.com/sh/53zzxqo87ax65rg/AACX7YGejCbalgvLiFNnqwC7a?dl=0}

If you see "Temporary Space Holder", its because the files are still uploading. My internet is so stupid slow :/

Thanks for the update. That is certainly interesting case, I tried my hex file on my printer and it works fine. Which type of simple metal do you own? I think yours might have different switch (NC wiring instead NO). Can you take a photo of how your switch looks like and how the wires are soldered? I use F5 ao it shouldn't be the board problem.

It is very weird indeed. I am not currently able to get a picture unfortunately, but I they are definitely normally open, as I used the M119 command with the switches set to NO and they all worked correctly. By "what type of simple metal" what are you asking?

Jun 22, 2016 - Modified Jun 22, 2016
Simulatedbog545 - in reply to Aistaca

so, a few things. The new firmware doesn't seem to change anything for me. I still have the problem that the setting inverting the X and Y endstops (such as the printer thinking the switch is closed when it is open, not thinking the X axis is the Y). I keep getting the (echo:endstops hit: Y) whenever I try to jerk the axis in cura. Im going to try something myself with the Printrbot version of marlin. I will put a link if it working for me so you can take a look if you want. Just so you know, I have a printrboard rev F5

By the way, you are awesome. This response speed is just so fast compared to other things. Thanks man

I see what the problem was. My printer (and usually on most printer and cnc) has NC switch configured. This is for safety reason as such the machine will lock itself/ won't work properly when switch is unplugged or faulty cable. Did you solder the switch yourself or it came with your printrbot?

The printer came assembled straight from printrbot

Right, mine is 2014 model. The newer model might have reverted switch. I'll take note of that, thanks.

Thanks for all the help man, printer is working like a charm :)

Hey there. I was wondering if instead of hooking the fan up to the mosfet, like in your diagram, I just hook it to the 12v power so when the printer is on the fan is on. will this have any affect on your provided firmware hex file or will it still run fine on my printrbot.
Thanks

No, not at all. Your solution will work without any flaw. In fact, it is the easiest way to wire the fan according to most people. I put the auto-fan activation in the firmware to minimize the noise on my printer while it's on idle. and of course to prolong the fan lifetime.

Ok thanks but another question. With your given hex file will all I have to do is reflash the firmware with Atmel, no using Arduino to change setting and stuff like that.

It depends with the bootloader of the board. If you bought the chinese clone one then it's likely using CDC bootloader, in this case you can use the Arduino IDE. However, if you got the genuine one, chance is it has DFU bootloader, which means you need to use Atmel Flip.

I got this directly from printrbot but how can I be sure? is there an easy way to check?

then surely you have to use Flip. You can try using arduino IDE, and if that doesn't work then go back to Flip.

K sorry but one more question. in all the instructions I read that u have to change some software stuff like the temp in arduino with this file all I have to do is load it to the printrbot and it will run, correct?

if you are using my hex file, yes that's all you need to do. Hex file is actually a compiled firmware, which in my case was generated from the arduino IDE :D

That's awesome! everywhere I looked it was programing, programing, programing, and I'm sure its easy for those who know it, but for a guy like me that just shuts me down. Now all I have to do is get an E3D v6 and ill be ready. Thanks for all they help : )

your welcome :)
don't forget to print the adapter first before disassembling your hotend. And if you are a bit adventurous, you can add touchscreen with OctoPi server on my other thing.

I saw that and actually giving it some thought. We will see, probably sometime in the future, right now I'm still a noob at this.

I've just uploaded the RPi image, so next time you are interested you don't need to do some programming anymore :)

Thanks again, its guys like you who make 3d printing accessible to the everyday guy.

Jun 11, 2016 - Modified Jun 11, 2016
experimentalgp - in reply to Aistaca

Every time a flash this firmware I get the message below. The printer was purchased last fall so it is revF and the e3d v6 is brand new. Any thoughts from anyone? Resistant from the thermistor is fine.


Recv: Error:0
Recv: : Extruder switched off. MINTEMP triggered !
Changing monitoring state from 'Operational' to 'Error: 0: Extruder switched off. MINTEMP triggered !
'
Recv: Error:Printer stopped due to errors. Fix the error and use M999 to restart. (Temperature is reset. Set it after restarting)

looks like to me that the thermistor is not properly connected to the main board, have you checked it? It often happen to mine as the thermistor legs are tiny, and my solder often came out from it. I recommend to clamp the thermistor to the cables using the provided tube..

Oh, I forgot to ask, you said "Every time a flash this firmware.." does it means it works fine with other firmware?

Sorry, no I just re-flashed the your firmware a few times to make sure it was on the board. Taking it apart now and checking connections. :(

I have now re-wired everything, so I know the connections are correct. I'm still not getting a reading from the thermistor. I even recompiled marlin from the latest printrbot firmware. I changed the firmware name and used M115 to make sure the firmware is on the board.

Is it possible that printboard F rev5 needs a different firmware? Or that the thermistor that ships now with the e3d is not #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5

Multimeter shows resistance on the thermister wires so the connect works. Thank you for any help.

I use F4 and F5, both works fine. You have also tested with other firmware, so it is not likely to be firmware issue. I can only speculate 3 faults: your control board, wiring or thermistor.

Try wiring 100k resistor directly to the thermistor port on your board. If you still get the minitemp error that it is likely that your board is faulty (you might have burnt the ADC circuit on the chip). If this is the case then you can kiss good bye to your board and get another one (simplest and safest way), or make your own circuit and use another adc port on EXP1 and modify the firmware (only do this when you know basic electronic).

If the board is fine then it's likely the wiring, but you've checked the wiring before so lets assume for now it's not the wiring. If you still have your old ubis try connecting its thermistor instead. Still error, then it's your wiring. No more error, then you know it's your E3D thermistor that's faulty.

I hope this help. Let me know if you've found the solution.

Jun 12, 2016 - Modified Jun 12, 2016
experimentalgp - in reply to Aistaca

I removed the stock thermistor wires and ran new thicker gage wires for the thermistor. This has fixed the problem. No clue why since resistance was there, but it is fixed now.

mostly just a bad quality wire. I had that problem before, had to spent the whole 2 nights before realized that the connections were cut when bent. Good news that you have solved your problem. :)

Jun 3, 2016 - Modified Jun 3, 2016

Thanks for making this mod. Has there been any improvements in the firmware? Also here is a an improved shroud that goes with the mod.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:367602

Also some more step by step http://matterhackers.dozuki.com/Guide/How+to+Install+an+E3D+v6+HotEnd+on+a+Printrbot+Simple+Metal/9

Printrbot Simple Metal Improved Fan Shroud
by EricY

Thank you for your appreciation :) The improved firmware is done and already tested on mine, mainly just tweaking the Z-probing problems. However, it was configured for my printer, so I had the XY inverted to YX (XY coordinate now facing the other side) to accommodate the touchscreen upgrade (I will upload it later, when I have time). Hopefully, I can reconfigure and upload the firmware somewhere within this week.

I saw that improved shroud before, very good one. Unfortunately, it changed the fan placement to be outside of the plate instead the original position, which in my case will obstruct the movement (cause I had a custom fit enclosure :)

Thanks for the step-by-step link, I will definitely put the link in the description!

Is this for the direct or bowden version of the E3D? and if so do i need to purchase extra PTFE for the adapter and e3d?

Thanks

the v6 1.75mm version should come as universal, means it can be used as direct or bowden. The kit comes with E3D has excess tube already included (at least when I bought it). It should be long enough (or longer) to be fit on the adapter :)

I just realized they sell both direct and bowden version now. My understanding is both will be ok, I think you will get a meter tube for the bowden version and only a couple of centimeters on the direct one. You better ask the E3D team for what you will get. Cheers!

https://www.matterhackers.com/store/printer-accessories/e3d-all-metal-v6-hotend-fully-assembled-1.75mm-universal-direct-12v.

Ok I think it's ok that I ordered the direct. At the bottom of the page it says which version I'm needed.

ok thanks thats what i was confused by i saw a few people unboxing the direct versions and most had all of the parts and a little ptfe and the bowden coupler so i think im ok. if not i will just oder the coupling and some ptfe later.

@Aistaca: On importat hint for the customised firmware: As I have tested your firmware for a long time with E3D V6 above two different Printrbot's Simple Metal heated beds (original Alu – short and long version) and automatic bed levelling didn't work for me at all, I have compiled today my own firmware based on the last Printrbot's Rev F Version 5 firmware with some of your clever setting incorporated. And even I am only at the start of test prints, on thing looks clear – try to disable ACCURATE_BED_LEVELING in Configuration.h file. Printrbot team has disabled this setting and if I tried it with 2×2 or even 3×3, it did't work as expected. (Maybe because of low memory reasons?) Now it looks I have better results with non-accurate measuring in only three point. As the Alu beds are very narrow, maybe it is enough. ;) I will test some longer prints on BuildTak pad on Alu surface during next weeks.

So I have confirmed from Brook Drumm (chief of Printrbot) that Printrboards work only with 3-points auto levelling.

Hi tomulinek, thanks for the news. I'm planning to do a full maintenance on my printrbot this week so I'll be tweaking the firmware a bit more. I had the accurate bed leveling to be better when my printer was still brand new (bed was perfectly flat). Now that mine was bent when I traveled (thanks to some airport staffs) and re-flattened again, I can see why the 3-point leveling can do better. I'll give it a shot this week and hopefully come up with a better firmware :)

I'm very sorry. It seems that I won't be compiling new firmware for a while. I have to outsource some parts from out of the country to restore my printer. I will compile new firmware once I get all the hardware fixed.

I want to ask a favor.. I have gone back to the default firmware (compiled with the E3D thermistor) and am having much better results.

But I really miss the automatic fan feature that you added to your firmware........

Is there any chance you could be willing to compile a standard version of the firmware adding your fan control mechanism (and the E3D Thermistor)

I realise its a big ask and would be willing to make a donation for your time.. So I just figured I would ask.

My fingers are crossed that you can help.

Jon

Hey, sorry for the long awaited reply, been very busy lately.
It's nice that you can compile your own firmware. Now, adding the fan control using marlin's default code is not that hard. If you go to Configuration_adv.h find #define EXTRUDER_0_AUTO_FAN_PIN and replace -1 with 37 (the pin I'm using). Change #define EXTRUDER_AUTO_FAN_TEMPERATURE for the treshold the fan will turn on (in my case 50). Hopefully this helps.

Why do you need different firmware? I just want to install it the easiest way possible without doing anything too complicated.

Will this work with the 1405 Simple Maker's Kit? Thanks!

I installed a MOSFET today to control the fan (as per your diagram) and it works brilliantly. It appears thhat its triggered at 50 degrees.

Is this something you added to your Firmware? Or is it in the standard firmware too?

One thing for sure, it is not in the original Printrbot firmware. I added it in my firmware :)

i have a rev d could that be he issue?

It could be the issue to be honest because from the way your printer behave, it seems like your Y-axis endstop switch is connected to different pin from the firmware. Let me see if I can compile one for you :)

Done! Check on the instruction, it's on the experimental firmware section.

thank you for your fast responce but when i load that firmware (msrlin_v1_vera-e) and try and do anything it says command waiting in repetier

i decided to give up and put the old thermister in the v6 but when i tryed to reflash with stock printrbot firmware and my y axis still wont work

i did this exactly to your instructions but when i try and home y it moves back about 10mm then stops if i keep moving it back by keep pressing home the limit switch doesnt do anything it still tryes to keep going

THanks for your guide.. I just installed my E3D following your steps..

As other have pointed out, my Extruder motor was also going backwards, so I had to reverse the connectors on both the E and Y output.

It seems to work fine.. BUT.. I am now having much success printing.

As I move my Z axis closer to the bed, I get to the point where it seems to lay PLA smoothly, but as the print grow I can hear the tip 'scratching' the surface as it moves, often breaking the piece of the bed...

When you stop (or let the print finish), the top surface is horrible.. Its lumpy and far from smooth.

Whilst the bottom surface looks OK, when you look closely its not.. THe outer walls are OK.. But the 'fill' looks really blobby...

I have tried everything and am running out of ideas... Not really sure where to go next and am currently regretting my E3D upgrade!

Hi jweaver! I apologize for the long reply, had to service my computer :(

The bed scratching problem is very common when level-probing is not very optimized, or something else. Now, the problem with the current firmware is that the bed leveling ONLY works well on a perfectly flat surface. If yours curves significantly, I'm afraid that it will not work, unless the original Printrbot firmware does work on yours then it's the problem from my firmware. Try using my old firmware which is posted on my guide, if that doesn't work get the experimental firmware (USB version). If it still scratch your bed try tuning the probing height. Still scratching? Let me know :)

Now, as for the terrible finish you mentioned in the mail, there are many aspects that can affect it; my guessing is either the temperature or the extrusion multiplier. If the finish looks like it was filled with very thin extrusion or just blob then you need to crank up the temperature, if it's too runny then low it down. If it looks like it extrudes too much that it squashed your print then lower down your extrusion multiplier, if not filled enough increase it. Temp of 250C for PLA can be normal on some cases, so don't worry about crank up the temperature, just raise it slowly until it looks reasonable to extrude.

Another point I can think of is check on your temperature graph. Oscillation is something we don't wanna get. 2 degree of oscillation is acceptable, but 10 might actually destroy your print, 5 is cutting it close. If it does oscillate much try tuning the PID constant on the EEPROM.

Hi Aistaca.. I have spent the day playing and made no progress..

I am sure my auto-probe is setup correctly as I have now found the sweet spot between too far (no adhesion) And too close (head touches print).. And to be honest, I havn't got the scratching issue now. But please note, it never scratched my bed.. Only the top of the print

Now the autolevel is set the print quality is HORRIBLE.. Nothing like my Ubis.. I am printing a 30x30x0.6 cuboid at 0.2mm just so I can lay down a top/mid and bottom layer.. The bottom OUTLINE looks good.. But the fill looks odd.. Its kind of 'rippled'.

And the top feels rough.. Almost like sandpaper, with tiny little raised lines in it.

I have been playing all day with every option available and the ONLY thing which has helped was to turn the Flow% down to 80 in Cura.. Now the top layer is awesome.. But the bottom not so.. And I don't believe this is the solution.

I have tried printing between 190 and 210 and its roughly the same... .. But perhaps I will go HOTTER..?

My temperature looks pretty constant.. And I have done a number of PID tunes giving similar but different results.

  1. P38.5 I4.14 D89.58
  2. P37.8 I3.99 D89.9
  3. P39 I4.39 D88.6

So I have just taken an average and gone with

P39 I4 D39

I don't mind trying different firmware, but am not entirely sure if I am using the right one.. I just followed the link and got the one from your guide.

Thanks for taking hte time to reply and if you have any more thought, i am open to ANY suggestions and I am fed up now and considering throwing in the towel.

Jon

I'm sorry to hear that. I'm not very familiar with Cura, but have you tried Slic3r? In Slic3r advanced setting you can set the extrusion thickness on bottom & top layer as well as perimeter and infill. If you are not too familiar with it, try using my preset and tweak it from there.

Do you by chance have firmware which is simply the default Printrbot version compiled with the E3D thermistor?

I would like to go back to basics and rule out any problems caused by your new features...

Also.. Is it expected behavour for the Extruder to change directions in your firmware? I know that Y was expected.. But not E.

Jon

Tried Slic3r at the start and there were too many option.. So I went with CURA and love it.. I don't really want to change now and in truth, do not believe this is a slicer issue...

I think I have noticed something. I appear to be extruding less in one direction than the other.. Need to setup a slow test to monitor.. But from the print I have going now, I can see a lot of extrusion when its going towards you.. But hardly anything when its going away from you... This doesn't seem right.

And this takes me back to something which bothered me from the start.. In your (And everyones) guide it talks about reversing the Y Axis motor.. Which I did... But when I printed my Extruder ran backwards too, so I had to reverse that connector as well.

I found it odd at the time that you didn't mention this in your guide.. Does this indicate a problem? Was it OK to reverse the connector? Could this explain the behavior I am seeing?

That is certainly interesting case. In my case I don't need to reverse any connection, except maybe the Y-axis motor. Reverse extrusion is something new for me, maybe latest firmware with latest hardware has that reversed compare to mine. On electronic level, it is safe to reverse the connection. From the way Printrboard arrange the pins, you should be able to reverse the motor by just reverse the connection. If you have the wiring wrong then what will happen is that your motor won't run, or just stutter (won't destroy your motor or control board). If reversing your connector solve the problem then let me know.

Just curious, are you using Rev F4 or Rev F5 board? Or maybe another type of board?

Very odd.. Mine is an F4 built in Nov 2014...

When I did the mod, I knew I would have to swap the Y cable.. But I didn't expect the extruder to run backwards too.. I simply flipped the connector and it ran in the right direction (although with my ongoing problems, I am still not 100% sure its right).

Jon

I need to re-flash my firmware. Your version that I have is many months old. Do you have a new version?

the latest one is a few months old as well. Try to get my experimental firmware first and see how it works.

I also had to reverse the connection on my extruder on my RevF purchased in October. It was going in reverse after flash.

Nov 4, 2015 - Modified Nov 4, 2015

Hi @Aistaca, I use your latest firmware with Rev. F and E3D V6 and after using Simplify3D slicer (I can definitely recommend), it works like a charm! Thank you. My question: I am going to update Simple Metal with the new, original X extension heated bed from Printrbot, please, don't you plan a same upgrade as your firmware needs to be modified? Or is there any source I can simply modify? Thank you in advance! Maybe it will help more users-upgraders. ;)

Hi @tomulinek! Fortunately for you, my firmware does support heated bed. If you look carefully on my printer I used the Printrbot's upgrade heated bed kit. I have to say it is expensive, but with the price of quality and a very thick aluminium bed!

Nov 4, 2015 - Modified Nov 4, 2015
tomulinek - in reply to Aistaca

Hi @Aistaca, I already have Simple Metal with heated bed V1, but I had new X axis upgrade (http://printrbot.com/shop/simple-x-axis-upgrade/) in mind. If the firmware flash is only because of heating, not bed SIZE, than I will stick with your actual firmware. ;)

Ah, I see. You are correct, the firmware does need to be modified to allow more axis movement. Unfortunately, these parameters are not stored in EEPROM, so you have to modify it in the Arduino code. Go look on the config tab and change the bed size as desired, recompile and reflash your board. Let me know if you need help on doing it :)

@Aistaca Hi, I have X axis upgrade of my Simple Metal now and the bed size is no problem as it is set up via slicer (Simplify3D). But I still need to change two things – spread 2×3 autotune measuring points along the bed and also increase PID BANG_MAX parameter (as my E3D V6 temperatures tends to lower during printing). I am afraid I have to do these changes to firmware myself (never tried before). ;) Please, can you share sources of V1.2 USB firmware? (In description it looks like the download is for older/original 9 months old version)... Thank you for tips and tricks.

Nov 11, 2015 - Modified Nov 11, 2015
simlyjerry - in reply to Aistaca

Build bet size is easily changed within Simplify3d. Edit Process Settings>>> G-code>>> change built size and hit OK. Done.

Nov 4, 2015 - Modified Nov 4, 2015
tomulinek - in reply to Aistaca

I have never compiled my own code changes yet, so it will be another story… ;) Maybe I will postpone the upgrade to Xmas (shipment and celarance will get several weeks anyway, I am still waiting for confirming the goods from Printrbot as I also have to change almost dead bearing blocks for the 3rd time).

It might be the rod itself. I have one X-axis rod that is 'thicker' than the other. I'm not too worried about it, because I am planning an upgrade, but it is something to consider if your bearings are always failing on a particular rod.

Hey, sorry for the late reply :(
I'm not quiet sure if it will work or not, to be honest. I cannot guarantee if the spacer will push the hotend too far that the extruder won't be able to partially hold it. However, judging from how similar the extruder is (or maybe it's the exact same one!) it should work.
Now, firmware might be a little bit different. As yours doesn't have auto level probe, my firmware might not work properly, or it might work well as well! If you are using your own compiled firmware then all's good!

Hello, can you please inform me if this https://www.dropbox.com/s/n212swlc58da0sh/Simple%20Metal%20E3D%20v6.hex?dl=0 firmware is compatible with all firmwares of Simple Metal?

I have the F4 :) Thanks!

hey, sorry for the very late reply :(
I'm using F4 and F5 board, so the firmware I provided should work on your F4

Comments deleted.

Alrite folks, I compiled a new firmware. It has 4 points grid mapping instead of the previous 16-points. So, apparently marlin firmware tried to round up all the 4x4 samples into a flat surface, which if the bed is slightly curved it will mess up with the auto-level. Some might find it better to use 4x4, but it seems 2x2 performs better in this case. I tested the 3-points mapping as well, but it seems grid sampling has a more accurate auto-level (so I stick with the grid sampling instead of the original 3-points).
Other features are added as well such as runout prevention (auto extrude on a very small distance) when hotend exceed 230 (this is experimental, let me know if it helps or not). Max power of the hotend is also increased (so heat up faster) but not till to the point where it's dangerous yet (just be careful when tuning the PID).

@ Aistaca,

Serious applause for what must be a ton of time and work on the firmware. Myself like many others appreciate loading your pre-built HEX and then congratulating ourselves on getting great prints.

As I am new to 3d printing, I do have one question about how to diagnose the level of my bed. It's obvious one side of my bed (positive x) is lower, (or the firmware thinks it lower). How do I diagnose if the 9 point system is working correctly? Ideally I can compensate through the firmware and not tear my printer apart :)

Thanks,
Epsium

Comments deleted.
Aug 2, 2015 - Modified Aug 2, 2015
tomulinek - in reply to Aistaca

Nice to hear, time to plan a fresh flash. ;) Thank you.

I apologize for not able to reply and update the firmware for the past months. I've been busy with thesis, graduation & visa problem and now with moving out. Anyway, it seems that the latest firmware that I compile is still unstable, and I noticed some people has problems with the auto bed leveling (I noticed mine doing worse that the previous firmware as well). Please use the old firmware for now, I will get into the new firmware when I have the time. Once again, I apologize for the slow progress.

We are looking forward to new firmware, thank you for the news. ;)

Comments deleted.

This works great with the additional plate: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:906608

One thing I've noticed is that with the new firmware with 4x4 auto-levelling, even after running G29 I'm seeing no Z compensation happening, even though the gap between the nozzle and bed is definitely varying... Any ideas?

Printrbot Simple Metal E3D-V6 adapter plate
Aug 1, 2015 - Modified Aug 1, 2015
tomulinek - in reply to TakumoKatekari

You are right, Takumo. I had strange problems with bed adhession in the middle with small model. So I push my nozzle really low with M212. And it was OK. Then I have tried larger print... And now my new kapton foil is totally scratched (and partly also the bed). Looks like Z compensation is wrong with the latest firmware.

Comments deleted.

This adapter needs to be 2mm shorter in height to give the E3D a better grip length inside the extruder/

Printrbot Simple Metal E3D v6 Hot End Secure Fit Spacer

I'll just advertise myself here. I've designed adapter plate for the E3D V6 for Simple Metal that will in addition to this adapter make it more secure and prevent situations like hotend being pushed out due to insufficient grip force of the extruder mount.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:906608

Printrbot Simple Metal E3D-V6 adapter plate

Only if i had made one of these before breaking my old ubis

but i also dont see the problem with just adding the e3d v6 to the printrbot. I did the measurements and it should fit fine.

that is how I have mine but with the stock bed height it will be cutting it close. I rose my bed with washers about 5mm and adjusted my auto level probe and have been running this way for about 4 months without issue.

Does the firmware listed in the instructions work on a RevF board?

I'm running it on F5 with no problems after turning the connectors around.

should work. Rev F and F4, also the latest F5 should all have the same pin assignment. The only difference I can tell is the component used (the latest has better hardware).

Comments deleted.

Yes, had to use tape to tape the top 5 mm or so of the fan shroud mouth to stop it blowing on the heater block, as was cooling it below the trigger for preventing extrusion at low temps, halting the print. Now from failing each print, it holds temp perfectly.

Made the upgrade, almost everything up and working perfect. Anyone have issues with the E3D not holding the temp high? I don't yet have a new PB fan shroud printed, so that could be making it hard for the hotend to stay heated. But any who, if anyone else has the issue please respond ahah

Hi! I was wondering what you've set your PID_MAX to in your compiled hex file?

I've tried 3 compiles myself, and get all kinds of weird behavior, like reversed axis, unwillingness to move Y axis, etc. Your file works great, but since I won't be printing polycarb or anything, I'd like to keep that max hotend power down a little for peace of mind. Could you share your configuration.h file in dropbox as well? I'd like to see what you've done differently that makes everything work.

Thanks!

Reversed axis are likely just because your original firmware was backwards (mine was). If you reverse the plug in to your Printrboard for that motor it will work fine.

Hi as well! I think my firmware is set the max PID is operating on 50% so it's not really too aggressive (and also safer). I've put a "brief" instruction including the links for source code and compiler :)

Apr 5, 2015 - Modified Apr 5, 2015
mpkennedy23 - in reply to Aistaca

Thanks, that's good to hear! I'm going to keep playing with the compiling, though now I know your setup has everything I really want.

Maybe I'm having trouble because I built a modern Arduino environment instead of using good 'ole 0022.

I purchased a few mosfet to give it a try. But now that E3D has launched E3D Lite6 which does not require a fan to print PLA, I am going to give that hot end a try and report here. This will greatly simplify the hot end upgrade for user from Ubis to E3D.

I think the grip of the hot end is too little that it flew out of its place, damaging my heated bed, the fan shroud. It then got dragged around and flew downward mashing up the USB cable :|. Fortunately, this yanked the USB cable and the print was stopped for me to find the machine in disarray a few hours later :(.

Do you find the attachment of the e3d v6 hot end enough with just the screw? Are you guys wrapping it with some shim?
What's everyone step per minute? i.e. M92 settings

I had the same issue, Datt. When the end got clogged, the filament pushed the E3D out like a bad burrito.

I shaved about 1/8 of an inch off the adapter length, took a small portion off the diameter (so that it wouldn't stop the metal from closing down in the end of the E3D) and drilled out the steps inside to ensure that it was a really tight fit. That was enough to get most of the top ring fitted into the motor mount. It seems to be a solid hold, but time will tell. You could probably use some high-temp epoxy (like JB Weld or one of the other automotive epoxies) to just bond the adapter to the E3D. But I'm not bothering unless it's needed. [You probably don't need that much in the way of raw temp resistance, but you don't want something that's going to vent or degrade if/when it gets too hot]

Can you give some information on the slicer settings that you use? I am using 210C/70C and I keep getting clog. The filament will move upward in the heat break and get stuck since the fan cools the top part too aggressively.

That happened some times with my printer as well. What I found is that it's usually happen to some high temp PLA. What you can do is to reduce the retraction distance and crank up your hotend temperature. At the moment I'm running 215-225 degree celcius with retraction max at 2mm. Since I'm using buildtak bed heating is not really an issue, I'm putting mine on 45-50 degree celcius.

I did a full write up of my journey to replace my Ubis the the E3D v6.
Maybe it'll help future generations... or at least help me when I forget everything.
http://thisoldspoon.blogspot.com/2015/03/e3d-v6-hotend-on-printrbot-simple-metal.html

Apr 6, 2015 - Modified Apr 10, 2015
maxadam - in reply to spoon2099

Hey, spoon2099, Hi, your guide is really a great document. Thank you so much for putting this together with such care. I bought a E3D lite because the super fragile nichrome wire in my Ubis snapped while I was cleaning the nozzle. This means I don't have a printer to make an adaptor. So I'm wondering ... since you printed a bunch of the adaptors I suppose that you have some that you don't need. Would you be willing to send one to me? I would cover shipping and a reasonable fee for your time. [yes, apologies for posting this on your blog too, but I just got the tracking info for the e3dlite6 and it will be here this week. and I'm anxious to get printing again. Cheers.

Comments deleted.

Great guide you have there! Nice seeing you use octoprint. I use octoprint as well, I embed my rPi inside my Simple Metal, haven't got the time to upload the adapter clip yet as it's not perfect, yet.

At some point, I'd like to upload the full guide on the wiring (including the additional mosfet for auto-fan) as well as the firmware. Do you mind if I include your link?

Feel free.
I'm curious to see your fan wiring. My shove-it-in-the-connector method works well enough, but it is far from elegant.

Very cool guide. I have made the purchase for the digikey parts. Gonna improve my current wiring which is horrendous :D. I couldn't find in your guide what slicer settings to use with the new e3d. I have found 210C/70C to be too low and cause jam in the heat break.

I'm guessing your retraction is too high.
E3D recommends 0.5-1.0 mm. I had a jam when I ran it at 1.0mm but haven't had any issues with 0.5mm retraction.
I can smoothly print with my current roll of PLA (every roll is different) at 185˚ with no issues. I don't have a heated bed.

Mar 19, 2015 - Modified Mar 19, 2015
dattanchu - in reply to spoon2099

Hmm, I was having retraction at 4 in Cura. Now down to 2 and still jam. Gonna try 0.5 next. I am getting jam on EVERY print though so it must be something very fundamental.

I flashed your firmware onto my rev f4. The y axis is reversed. No biggy, I flip the motor plug. When I try telling the hot end to go to 180 it does. But when I try to tell it to go to 210 and the bed to 70, the hot end shoots to 280 and keep on going up while the bed hover around 50. Am I doing something wrong?

Mar 15, 2015 - Modified Mar 15, 2015
dattanchu - in reply to dattanchu

Turns out when I install my own connector, I makes the two MOSFET touchs at the top. This cause a current leak from the bed mosfet onto the extruder mosfet causing the over heat. Gently pushing them away from each other solve the issue.

My E3D V6 is printing now. I need to use the current setup to print this object you posted since the previous print didn't really fit :p

Nice to see you solved your problem. Sorry for not replying soon enough as I'm getting really busy with competition and thesis :(
At some point I will upload all files related to firmware for rev f4 and wiring guide for the fan mosfet. If you have more questions don't hesitate to ask me (tho I might not be able to answer quickly).

Your firmware puts pin 3 on high when the thermistor detects more than 50 degree. Is that pin 3 of the thermistor pin? Or is that pin 3 of the mosfet? So I assume I need a 12 V mosfet connected to this pin in order to drive the extruder fan?

Your firmware puts pin 3 on high when the thermistor detects more than 50 degree. Is that pin 3 of the thermistor pin? Or is that pin 3 of the mosfet? So I assume I need a 12 V mosfet connected to this pin in order to drive the extruder fan?

it is the 3rd pin on the exp1 port on Printrboard, not anywhere else. The logic signal on Printrboard works on 5V, so this pin will supply 5V when temp reach above 50 degree celcius and connected to ground when below, so your mosfet trigger signal has to be able to work on 5V (mosfet works like a switch, except it pass current on one way, transistor stuffs).

Found it finally after looking at a camera shot of the board :). Since my e3d fan runs on 12v while the printrboard works on 5v, shouldn't I use a relay instead of a mosfet? Can I have the mosfet model # you have so I can just get it from digikey? :-)

MOSFET (or just simply a transistor) works just like a relay. It needs voltage trigger to pass the current between its pins, in other way just like a relay with a diode in it. If you ever heard of the name solid state relay, that is basically a mosfet. The advantages of using mosfet are that it doesn't use mechanical switching as it makes it possible to operate on high frequency (for example PWM), also it uses less power to operate.

If you are confused on how to use mosfet you can always use relay. Although, be careful when choosing your relay. As relay require more power to operate, make sure that you have a low power relay that could work with the supplied voltage and current from the Printrboard (as well as the voltage/current rating for your fan). If you are buying from a local shop they should understand when you say you want to operate it with a 5V microcontroller. E3D fan should not take that much power, a 12V 1A relay should be fine.

Looks like mosfet is what I want. Which model number do you use?

I'm glad you continue to comment and help people out in the threads for your adapter.
Makes me feel like I can make the upgrade myself.

For your adapter you say an extra 5mm of PTFE tube is necessary.
Did you have to buy additional PTFE or did it come with it? Filastruder says they include some tubing, but E3D doesn't.

last time I bought from E3D it came with a longer PTFE tube. Take note that only the 1.75mm version of E3D v6 has PTFE liner in it, the 3mm version does not use any PTFE tubing (Simple Metal extruder only fit 1.75mm filament, NOT 3mm).

What I mean by 5mm extra length is that when you fit in the tube in the hotend you wanna leave 5mm longer and not cut the tube exactly the same length of the hotend. There is an illustration picture of the 3D model of the hotend attached on my adapter, I hope you can understand better by looking on it :)

Did you have to change any settings to make the thermistor work correctly?

yes, you have to do firmware modification. I have attached my compiled firmware somewhere in the comments

Hey just wanted to give you an update, I had to modify firmware as for some reason I had to invert the z probe logic values in order to get my probe to work properly, (long story, and months of troubleshooting bad board & sensor). Just finished PID calibration. Have not had a chance to run a test print yet( hopefully tomorrow after work). One more question for you though do you have an issue w/ the heater block hitting the frame of the printer when homing Y axis? I have modded my printer w/ glass print bed in order to expand the X axis just curious if everyone has this issue or if it is something I induced by changing the bed? Thanks,

  • Phil

Mine did not hit the frame. You have to position your heater block properly (longer part facing outward).

Ok thanks, I oriented the heater block as shown in your pics. It turned out I had actually introduced that issue into my printer w/ parts I designed to hold glass printbed for extended x axis travel. Modified my parts and am back in action. Thanks again for all your help.

Got my hot end today. I think I spent more time getting it assembled than I did the printer. :) I did get your adapter printed. I bought the hot end at Matter Hackers and they printed one out for me. They printed two and it was a good thing. One was 0.2mm wider than the Ubis and wouldn't fit unless I really bent the clamp out. The other one was only 0.1mm and it slide in with just a little effort. Got the hot end clamped in and have even feed some filament through it. Now cooling it so I can run the PID setup and then calibrate the Z axis and I am set to go.

I had better get the hex file from you I suppose, I have no clue how much to change the PID values or in what direction. I would love to learn more, but don't want to keep monopolizing your time. You had mentioned about the thermistor reading differently since its not the same as the one used by PB, what do you do to address that? Is that also covered by the hex file?

Hey, sorry for the late reply. I did a quick compile on my software and I believed I made several changes on it.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/23aw66k6lepgfq0/Simple%20Metal%20E3D%20v6.hex?dl=0

It is configured for my printer (which has E3D v6 on it) and I believe the bed levelling was changed from the original 3 points sampling to 9 points sampling (which takes longer to sample at start but very precise on leveling the bed, specially when the bed is curving). If you prefer the original 3 points levelling let me know and I should be able to change it.

At the same time I added the fan trigger on the pin 3 of Exp1 to goes on high state when the extruder temp goes above 50 degree celcius (pin 3 is next to pin 1, pin 2 is across pin 1) and you need mosfet for this. If you don't know how to do this and won't risk shortening anything, you can wire up your fan directly to the 12v supply.

Another thing you might need to do is to tune the PID. If the temperature on the hotend is oscillating too much then do PID autotune (easiest way) and if you are challenged you can tweak it!
http://reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning

I've followed the instructuctions on spoon2099 website and I've managed to get my E3D V6 running well.
I have a MOSFET (N-Channel) and would like to use it on the E3D fan. But since I have the Rev-D board, I can't use your firmware.
Can you guide me on what to add on the firmware to have the fan turn on when the extruder temp hit 50 degree?
I've downloaded your source code file, but I can not find that particular modifications.

Can you link to a diagram where to find this pin 3? Also a link to the required mosfet to have the fan working would be great.

Are you using a Rev d board by chance? I have the Rev F and I just flashed firmware with your drop box file but Y axis is reversed. Do you know how I can fix this issue?

Oh sorry, forgot to mention about that. I'm using rev F4, rev D has different pin config so my firmware will not work on any board other than rev F4. The original firmware had the pins for Y inverted so I fixed that (on the board just flip the y-axis connector)

Ok will do. Thanks.

That's great, thanks. I am not too concerned about the auto-level as my board failed and I have not been able to get the probe to work properly since replacing the board. Not that big of a deal at the moment anyway though as I have switched to a glass printbed inorder to increase my build volume. I'm looking forward to trying this out once my E3D hot end arrives.

Oh, another thing you have to do is to calibrate the Z-probe (which is explained in the Printrbot website)
http://help.printrbot.com/Guide/3.+Setting+Up+Your+Auto-Leveling+Probe+and+Your+First+Print+-+Mac/107

Jan 1, 2015 - Modified Jan 1, 2015

Sorry to be a so ignorant, but are the PID settings a physical adjustment or firmware mod? Also yes if you could provide insight into how and what to modify in the firmware that would be greatly appreciated. What you said makes sense that the heating element and thermistor are both basically resistors, thus there is no polarity issue. Thanks again & Happy New Year.

Jan 1, 2015 - Modified Jan 1, 2015
Aistaca - in reply to 74custom

Happy new year to you as well!! The PID setting is definitely firmware related, however can be changed directly using gcode. The easiest way to change PID values is by using Repetier host (go to EEPROM settings). Note that EEPROM has a limit on how many times it can be written, so try not to change the values too much (think of something similar to SSD, but much much shorter life).

Modifying firmware can be a bit tricky. Depends on the bootloader burned on your Printrboard, I assume you have DFU bootloader instead of CDC (usually DFU comes with the Simple Metal kit). There's a guide on how to upload the hex file to the Printrboard http://help.printrbot.com/Guide/How+to+Reflash+Firmware/78.

You will need the hex file, which can be obtained by compiling the marlin firmware (default Printrboard use marlin) using Arduino IDE. I can provide the Arduino source code for Simple Metal so you can modify it, or provide the compiled hex file directly (you can't modify hex).

Probably a dumb question, but ill ask it all the same? as far as wiring goes, is this a direct fit (Plug and play) conversion? If not can you provide a wiring diagram? I just ordered a new E3D V6 after reading your post as my Printrbot hotend began acting up a few days ago.

As far as the wiring goes, the only problem will be the connector issue. If you don't mind messing with your old ubis, cut your connectors and solder it on your E3D instead. Polarity does not matter as heater cartridge and thermistor are the same as resistors; tho take care of which cable belongs to which, DO NOT plug thermistor on heater cable, and vice versa.

On the hardware level, E3D v6 use different heater cartridge and thermistor from ubis. Also, since the hotend itself is different, your PID needs to be reconfigured. The thermistor different heeds to be highlighted here as it will change your temperature reading. Firmware modification is a must!! If you don't know how to modify the firmware let me know :)

Adding more, your E3D fan needs to be turned on all the time, or at least when your hotend is on. You can wire it directly to your 12v power or modify the firmware to trigger the fan on and off as needed to an external switch (in my case I use mosfet, relay is another option). DO NOT wire the fan to your fan port, it's for part cooling, NOT hotend.

Top