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Reprap - Funbot i1

by RepRapOsterlen, published

Reprap - Funbot i1 by RepRapOsterlen Nov 23, 2014
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Added 2016-05-13

If you ask in comments or message me be patient as i started a new nightshift work that makes me pretty tired.
Only so you know.....

Added 2016-03-23

I recommend for any new builders to use mad mikes lmu8 remix to avoid any problems with printed bushings.
Its hard and tricky to get them working well with modern pla with all softeners added.
Use cheap hard glossy pla for bushings if you can find it.

Also recommended to use the Bowden remixes instead of the original mk8 version to make it simple.
Cheers cliff mellangård.

The longer spol top is to remove the pla from snapping of when you don't use the funbot and the extruder is homed.
Something I noticed whas that the angle for the pla where to sharp so it snapped of after 1-2 days above the extruder.
Its supposed to be placed in the rear.
The project is more or less now finished and will only be cleaned up for now on.
If you find any issues let me know so will I fix them.

The y upgrade is up for the ones that want it and removes the nead for the m5 threaded rod,1 bearing and the coupler.
The brand new mk8 combined print cooler and hotend cooler is also up that you see in my latest subscriber movie on my channel.

Update 7 is here now..

Added the brand new small spol roller wheels and you nead to print 4 of them.
they are supposed to be like wheels on the pipes used for a spol holder so the filament roll rotates softly and should work just as fine on both eu 10 mm as us 3/8 pipes.
They are to compensate for some rolls that have plastic rolls that seam to rotate with resistance towards the chromed pipes.
also the brand new official funbot bushings that slides with very little resistance and flex on uneven surfaces.
they have only bin tested so far on y and x axis with great results.
no nead for multiple sizes anymore to fit all types of printers output.
My inspiration for them is a mashup of igus and traditional lm10uu bearings where the long housing is for stability while the actual contact surface is minimal with good wear.
All latest updates will be explained in a coming video on my channel so be patient ;)
Only bad thing for me is that I seam to have to do a more updated build guide again soon ;)

Added a new pulley wheel caps for the 2 624zz bearings on x and y
axis that will make it a lot easier for the motors to work.
also the new pulley wheel holder that works with the new caps for y axis.

Small update with a new wider x carriage this will decrease the print
size but increase stability and allowe wider bushing spacing.
also have a hole to attach a m3 screw to adjust the endstop hit zone without adjusting the endstop it self.
use a wide head m3 screw.

Updated with 2 new files where one of them are a new taller z base t
hat also have supports to work better on softer base plates.
Also uploaded a new z carriage that have a small attachment so you can finetune the endstop with a m3 screw now instead of moving the endstop itself.
I leaved the 2 old versions for the ones that want to use them instead.
The new z base takes ages to print but is worth it ;) ( 6 hours on slow print on my prusa i3 )

The first beta release of the funbot firmware is now up.
I still have a few things to do on it as the fans on the mk 8 behaves like a print cooler and speeds up at some stages during prints.
this is now based on the latest release of marlin and they made so many changes compared to the old one I used so will take some time to go thru it all.
But it works and iam using it now on my 2 funbots.
Be carful and see that the fan is cooling your mk 8 as if not will it get clogged very fast.
You can control the fan in slic3r with the fan settings this way so not bad at all actually :)

Keep in mind that build guide and boom are not up to date until I have uploaded everything and had the time to change it.
The boom should be up to date now only some screw dimensions I might miss ??

Bowden recommended setup for funbot.

Sell this design???

  • I got the question from a reprap manufacturer if I mind if they produce and sell my design.
    The simple answer is that I don't mind but I would love if anyone share wath they do with my little design as its cool to see wath others do with it.
    I used my own money and skipped the suggested kickstarter solution as I want to share in a true reprap sense.

When you print do it with 3 perimeters like I do to get it as accurate as possible to wath I do.
I use a 0.4 nozzle so some people may nead to correct some settings in slicer to adjust to this.

Also remember to not go above 0.3 in infill density when printing parts that will carry weight or be under force when printer is working.
This is specially the z base and z base top part that holds a lot of weight.

Work in progress created so I have a space to upload everything as soon as they are done.

If you follow my bom and video build instructions so will you get this print area.
New build guide in the works.(2015-01-15)
Print size is x = 165 y = 170 z = 120

Build guide part 1.( 2015 )

Build guide part 2.

Build guide part 3.

Build guide part 4.

This is going to replace my old tinkerbot design.

Keep in mind that the y base is redesigned from wath you see in the videos and picture to simplify assembly.
This design uses cheap chromed copper pipes and printed lm10uu for rods and sliding bearings.
Makes it very light and silent during prints.
Have bin tested for a while that it actually prints well and are up to the task to be called a printer.
Why I design my wacky builds?

The goal of the printer like all my designs is a lightweight easy to ship and assemble, and the most important goal is that it must be extremely cheap to build and easy to get most parts nearby where you live.

If we achive this so will we have soon have a repraper in every corner in the world independent on wealth and other things that can stop you :)

added various stl fixes and replacements because I noticed I uploaded the wrong files on some stl files..
Added a reprap logo as a alternative cable bracket.
Added a better bearing housing for the y carriage bearing on the drive shaft.
Removed obsolete y carriage base.
Be patient with the updates because there will be many and often during the initial prototyping stage of the printer.
The first parts are more or less placeholders that work and have bin tested and many will be updated during time.
started on the wiki page.
Uploaded the print cooler and large ramps cover.
Latest upgrades are uploaded.


Reprap Wiki ( Have also a much cleaner layout) (don't know why this gets messed up when you type it in here)

  • http://reprap.org/wiki/Funbot_i1
    Have started the work on updating the boom to its current state be patient :)
    Iam leaving the old at the bottom as a reminder if I mess something up :)
    And big thanks to mad mike and sisco for helping me with a complete boom :)
    Love you guys for doing it for me :)


01 - 280mm x 240mm x 12mm MDF, Plywood, or Similar


02 - 210x190mm Acrylic or Aluminum Sheets
01 - 210x190mm Glas to print on.
02 - Paper clips to hold the glas in place


09 - M3 x 8mm Bolt
02 - M3 x 10mm Bolt
04 - M3 x 14mm Bolt
03 - M3 x 16mm Bolt
09 - M3 x 20mm Bolt
04 - M3 x 25mm Bolt
07 - M3 x 30mm Bolt
09 - M3 x 50mm Bolt

01 - M4 x 18mm Bolt
01 - M4 x 50mm Bolt

01 - M8 Nut

10 - Zipties (Nylon Strips to Keep Wires Neat)

01 - 3M Double Sided Tape

02 - GT2 20 Tooth Timing Belt Pulley w/ Grub Screw
01 - 2000mm (2 Meters) GT2 Timing Belt ( For X and Y Axis )

Smooth Rods or Chromed Water Pipes:

02 - 270mm x 10mm or 3/8" Smooth Rod
02 - 320mm x 10mm or 3/8" Smooth Rod
03 - 290mm x 10mm or 3/8" Smooth Rod
02 - 100-160mm x 10mm or 3/8" Smooth Rod for Spool

Threaded Rods:

01 - 210-220mm M8 Threaded Rod (For Z-axis)


02 - 624ZZ Bearing (For Belt Pulleys)
01 - 608ZZ Bearing (For the top of the M8 Threaded Rod)


03 - NEMA17 Stepper Motors (1.7 Amps, 40mm Length)


01 - Your Preference.. Mk8 Extruder Kit, Bowden, etc.


01 - RAMPS 1.4
01 - Arduino Mega 2560
04 - A4988 Drivers
04 - Driver Heatsinks
03 - Endstop mechanical limit switch
01 - RepRapDiscount Full Graphic Smart Controller

Power Supply:

01 - 12V 8+ AMP Switching Power Supply or Xbox Power Supply with Proper Voltage & Amps


Specifics on the Hardware

50mm M4 Qty 1
50mm M4 screw x1 X idler bearing mounting.

18mm M4 Qty 1
18mm M4 screw x1 Y idler bearing mounting.

50mm M3 Qty 9
50mm M3 screws x5 z base / stepper mounting.
50mm M3 screws x2 Y Stepper mounting.
50mm M3 screws x2 X axis Stepper mounting.

30mm M3 Qty 7
30mm M3 screw x1 Y belt tensioner.
30mm M3 screws x2 LCD cover to base plate mounting.
30mm M3 screws x4 Y lower plate to Y upper plate mounting

25mm M3 Qty 4
25mm M3 screws x4 Y axis mounting.

20mm M3 Qty 9
20mm M3 screws x2 electronics bottom mounting.
20mm M3 screws x2 Y endstop base mounting.
20mm M3 screws x2 Fan mount to RAMPS cover.
20mm M3 screw x1 Z endstop plate mounting.
20mm M3 screws x2 X axis pipe attachment

16mm M3 Qty 3
16mm M3 screws x3 Z axis top pipe attachment.

14mm M3 Qty 4
14mm M3 screws x4 LCD to LCD cover mounting.

10mm M3 Qty 2
10mm M3 screws x2 Power Supply Mounting.

8mm M3 Qty 9
8mm M3 screws x2 Y endstop mounting.
8mm M3 screws x4 Y base plate to Y Carriage mounting.
8mm M3 screw x1 Y endstop plate to Y base plate.
8mm M3 screws x2 LCD cover hinge mount to RAMPS cover.

The 2 latest cable holders is something added to give a more professional and cleaner look.
Boom will be added during a longer time so be patient.

My fellow repraper Wayne Friedt have allowed me to include his case for the reprap full graphics controller i have modified to fit this bot.
The cool thing with this case is that it also hides most of the cables and makes it look cleaner.
Boom so far.

Wood for the base.

  • I use a 12 mm thick mdf wooden board with the dimensions 280x240mm for the base.

    Bed material.

  • The dimension of the 2 bed plates are 210x190 mm
    I use 3 mm thick acrylic plastic that you buy very easy at any home depot or carpenters store.
    I used 3 mm thick only because it where the dimension they had at my local store but if you find 4-6 mm thick at yours so would that be even better.
    This would give better stability to the bed area but is not neccesery as it works also with 3 mm,but this will bend slightly when adjusting levelling screws etc.
    But are rock solid during printing :)
    In the countrie where you live so could it be called something else but this is plain plastic sheets they sell to cover broken windows or as protection screen on cnc machines.

I also got the attention from one builder that he found that my drill hole dimensions to attach the first acrylic sheet where wrong for him and found it to be better in reverse to wath I stated in the video part 7.
55 in on x axis and 60 on the y axis for the first hole.

Be carefull!!!!!

  • Keep in mind to drill up the holes for the 10mm pipes in reverse on your drill so will you not crack anything and get a better surface to slide in the pipes.
    M3 screws,nuts,washers

    z coupler uses 4 20mm long screws and the same amount of nuts.
    wood screws.

    coming soon!

    Pipes. ( Updated 2015-01-15)

    You will nead about 2.5-3 meters of chromed copper wather pipes with the outer dimension of 10mm. ( usa have other dimensions and 3/8" (9.5248mm) should work as good as European 10 mm.)
    If you build one in the us with these pipes let me know that everything works ok?
    If you experience a wobbly sensation with us pipes so simply scale down the bearing part to 98-99 in slicer as it should not affect the rest of it to much.
    With enough requests so will I try to do some official us parts to the 9.5 mm pipes for the printer.
    the main pieces should not be a problem as you always nead to drill them to insert the 10 mm pipes.

y axis = 2 pipes 270 mm ( print size 170)
x axis = 2 pipes 320 mm ( print size 165)
z axis = 3 pipes 290 mm ( print size 110-120)
Spol holder = 2 pipes 100-160 mm ( This is more or less how you want it) (Iused 160 in my videos)

2 = 270mm long pipes.
2 = 320mm long pipes.
3 = 290mm long pipes.
total = 2050 mm ( slightly above 2 meters)

Threaded rods.

1 m5 threaded rod 100-110mm long for y carriage drive shaft.
1 m8 threaded rod 210-220 mm long for z axis. ( 210mm works for long motor shafts.)
( Keep in mind that many motors have various lengths on the shaft so to be sure should you probably add 10-20 mm to the z axis threaded rod to get the same print height that I state. )
1 m8 threaded rod 150mm long for filament spol holder.


the supplied endstop mount for the z axis is not mine and a placeholder as it is the prusa i3 reworks I simply cut to fit a 10mm pipe.


You nead 3 624zz skateboard bearings for the belt drive.
2 are used for the y belt and can be improved as it is 2 only to get a wider spacing.
1 is used for the x axis belt together with washer to keep the belt in place.
If you wonder why I use these bearings so are they only 1 mm larger in diameter then a gt2 20 teeth pulley and fits nice on a m4 screw.
you nead 1 625zz bearing for the y axis drive shaft.
you nead 1 608zz for the filament spool spindle and have only bin tested on 1 kg spools.
3 = 624zz
1 = 625zz
1 = 608zz


You nead 3 nema 17! 1 - 2 amp motors as the extruder I use comes with one already attached and is cheap.
The motors in the video is 1.7 amp motors and are used because I had them at home.
The dimension on the motors I use are 40mm but that should matter as long as you use motors close to that dimension,
It is more critical to have a motor close to 40mm on the z axis as there is some very small ones that will conflict on the stability on the z axis if used there.
The small ones should you be able to use on the 2 other places on the printer like x and y axis.

Here did I buy my extruder.

Very long delivery time 3-5 weeks from china.


I recently found these on ebay and works just as good and are made in uk.

1-2 week delivery and improved nozzle and only slightly more expensiv.


Power supply.


Marlin Firmware.

  • I will try to upload my prototype marlin code in a compressed file but its pretty straight forward and easy to setup.
    Her is some typical settings that neads to be changed......

  • . #define INVERT_X_DIR true // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true
    .#define INVERT_Y_DIR false // for Mendel set to true, for Orca set to false // My mendel prusa wanted it like orca
    .#define INVERT_Z_DIR true // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true
    .#define INVERT_E0_DIR false // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false
    .#define INVERT_E1_DIR false // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false
    .#define INVERT_E2_DIR false // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false
    Use this in the beginning and then expand when you see that this is working ok.
    // Travel limits after homing
    .#define X_MAX_POS 145
    .#define X_MIN_POS 0
    .#define Y_MAX_POS 150
    .#define Y_MIN_POS 0
    .#define Z_MAX_POS 110
    .#define Z_MIN_POS 0

This is stil temporary but is a start.
.#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80 ,80 , 2560, 105.90192}
.#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {450, 450, 2.5, 32} // (mm/sec)

// X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E default values are good for skeinforge 40+, for older versions raise them a lot.
.#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {4500,4500,50,3200}

.#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 1000 // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for printing moves
.#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION 1000 // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for r retracts

// The speed change that does not require acceleration (i.e. the software might assume it can be done instanteneously)
.#define DEFAULT_XYJERK 10.0 // (mm/sec)
.#define DEFAULT_ZJERK 0.4 // (mm/sec)
. #define DEFAULT_EJERK 5 // (mm/sec)

Don't forget to remove // in front of the line that enables your type of lcd you use!!!!!!

Slicer config.

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printed a sample to see if the diameters of our bearings was the same. Your bearings are bigger than my prusa and closer together. myne are farther apart so it didnt work. If they were both too small or big i could scale up/down. But not the case

Is there any way I can use threaded rods instead of metal pipes? I don't believe I have any metal pipes that fit the dimensions.

How is the bearings going to slide on threaded rods i dont understand??

sorry i meant normal rods, i was interrupted while typing and i thought of the wrong thing.

Hello, I have a problem with the Y axis. It happens to me that during the operation skips belt and disturbs printing. What to do?

i dont know wath speeds you are printing or acceleration?
But soft accelerations and moderate speed should solve it.
How well it performs is very much up to how its printed and assembled and it varies alot from wath type of fillament etc.
If belt is to tight so will stepsticks overheat and make it skip also??
It where a while i printed on it but belive i used speeds around 30-40??

Hi, Sorry for too much questions, I noticed that my z-axis doesnot move up immediately when the rod is turning.. There seems to be a bit of delay, so after a few turn then the z-carriage will start moving up.

I suspect the screw and nut is not exactly snug fit, any solution to this?

If its a threaded rod and nut issue so could you get one from another supplier the rhreaded rod that is.
Large difference in where you buy them.
Its harder to get the nut out :)

There where another builder that had a issue with the nuts in his country where a bit smaller in thicknes.
You could use a hot glue gun to fasten the nut even more.
Or use a squared washer you nead to press in place.
If you have the tools so could you cut a round washer to fit.
Only make sure the fault aint in the threaded rod and nut so they jiggle in each other :)

It was me who had that trouble i believe -_-... I changed it to thicker nut but i think the problem is in looseness.. Do you think it will be better if I sandwiched the z-carriage with 2 nuts? stretch them so that they will each support the carriage on both rotations...

Also if I go find many nuts, is it possible to find one that snug fit on the rod, or they probably just all gonna be loose?

I found a huge difference in how thight the nuts fit threaded rods.
Its from brand to brand.
I have never tried a backlash solution so you could try it??
But how you solve it is something I don't know right now.

I put another nut to sandwich the z-carriage but it give the zmotor a bit more work to do..

Yea i read some stuff abt backlash down in comment section.. madmike mention something abt home stop bounce..

This is so stupid but i just figured that my problem was not in backlashing, although i still added another nut and double springs on top of z-carriage.

I'm pretty sure my problem was because i was printing 10mm cube and marvins and the small model overheats the prints so it looks like the nozzle was not lifting and the model got skewed coz of the nozzle stuck into the print.

I'm now printing funbot part the spool top holder and i can see that Z lifted good. So thank you for your support, my funbot is officially working now :D

So the funbot I build printed its first 1mm cube yesterday.. Pretty happy with it but I got all sorts of issues with endstops and homing..

Firstly, I never understand how cartesian home, from youtube, prusa i3 home by touching the endstop, go opposite direction few mm and touch the endstop again, I tried looking at the codes but still no clue. Is the funbot homing same as prusa?

Second, How my funbot home on Y axis was it touches the endstop and then keep going past the endstop for few mm which makes it stuck when trying to go back to center to print stuff. Z axis also do that, touch endstop then still go down few mm.

Third, X axis seems to work fine, it seems like it touches the endstop and just stop.

Sorry for all these questions.. Oh and my stepper seems a bit hot, still touchable but hot.. is that normal? I can't touch the steppers on my delta so I never knew.

usually so do homing touch and move back and then touch again.
This is a safety feature as the second time is it doing it a lot slower.
If it homes as a prusa so is it more how that prusa have its directions on the motors :)

If the stepper gets hot and you have weird issues with homing so could it be that you nead to check so the axis moves lightly all over the rods.
Many rods are uneven and if iam right do you have solid bushings in copper or igus ones ???
That's why I suspect its uneven rods on the surface???.

Oh it gets hot while printing sorry.. my rods are solid stainless steel and it slides ok.

Thanks for the explanation.. i guess i have to make sure the endstop can be triggered easily at the same spot.. y-axis is a bit tricky.

Hello Cliff,
I built a Funbot and very happy with it. I am waiting for the files of your new baby Atomx. I think you could give the name "Miller" because it's x and y works like a milling machine. Which design program do you use ? Do you have an email address ? Best Regards from Istanbul.

Iam happy you like it :)

I try to never give out my email ;)

You find me on facebook and the reprap group there ;)


Is it normal to not be able to slide the carriage due to tight bushings? I'm in a dilemma since loose bushing makes my carriage seems almost fall off the rail. and too tight is not good too.

also so do I recommend cheap hard pla for bushings as to many new pla brands use softeners that give to much friction sadly.
When I started this project so where it more common with the glossy hard pla compared to the more soft pla today.

use a spare rod and grind in the bushings before using them :)
When they are printed so do they have artefacts on the inside that make them to tight that nead to be grinded down a bit.
The artefacts are small but neads to be grinded.
There is a lot of work with printed bushings in the beginning but works very well when they are worked out.

This is why I today usually recommend the lmu8 version when people starts building it :)
A lot easier ;)

wait a second, you said lm8uu? I followed your build guide so my smooth rods are all 10mm in diameter, so i ordered lm10uu, will it still fits?

If you build my original and use 10mm rods so should lmu10 fit as all printed bushings used lmu10 diameters.

Great thanks! I just measured roughly and it should fit too :)

Ah yea i just ordered lm10uu.. one thing i noticed from your winged bushing, the empty part makes the carriage tilt since my X carriage is heavy, z carriage is tilted, so i swap one of winged bushing with igus style.. im planning to swap a couple more to see if it will improve stability.. i test the printer last night.. it can home now :) but still stability issue

they push the upper bearings to lift the far end of the x carriage :)

z carriage have holes on the same side as the x motor to put set screws to adjust the tilt if you have a heavy extruder :)

Hi, i tested the printer, the z axis, the nut on m8 threaded rod is not locked completely on the z carriage so it need a few rotation before the z carriage gets lifted up while printing, so my print was stuck on same layer..

How can i lock the nut? Just use hot glue?

Where do you live in the world?
I used standard Swedish nuts and they might be a bit thicker but don't know ??
You should have neaded some force to get it in place in there so as you mention a glue gun might be neaded if not.
My new design have I used much of my experience from this design to make even simplier :)
I belive there is a remix for leadscrews also that is linked as a remix from the main page??

Im in Indonesia.. hmm i might try glue gun.. i noticed my z carriage are delaminating a bit because of pressure from moving it up and down since my bushing is not good apparently.. maybe thats why..

I mighy try the glue gun and check out the remix you talk about..

Im waiting for your reprap atom too, should be easier and stable since the x and y axis is below and z has minimum payload :)

I made a early acces on the reprap wiki with first beta stls .
The parts have not bin tested assembled so far but should work with only some small sanding on some edges etc.
Going to add boom and build guides the coming days and next week.

Nice!! That shall be my next project after i got the funbot working

Hi, i just noticed, for z motor, the stl file for coupler for m8 threaded rod is gone? I see you have it on your build guide but not in thing files

Ah dont worry found it in the last section of instruction sorry

I tried printing the z carriage v7, the newest file, i try printing twice and it always have shifted layers at the same place same time, is it just me or file got problem?

if you print it to fast so could there be an overheat issue with the stepstick that makes it skip steps???
Its a big print that part and I don't know your settings or printer??
I recommend to do the lmu8 remix by madmike if you check it out as to many have issues with printed bearings ???
Printed bearings work great for me but to many have issues printing them :)

It happen with other file as well, it is my delta printer that is the problem.. but yea i cut the model amd printed the other half amd glue it together, just hope the z carriage i print can do the job :)

Then is it probably slower speed you nead :)
I remember my old delta doing this if I printed some prints where it retracted the hotend a lot to fast :)

I think i found my problem.. the nozzle was hitting the print, at some point it was so hard that it messed up the coordinates and therefore shifted layer -_-.. after lots of failure i will try incressing zlift to 1mm and see if it still scratch it..

Btw what do you think about printed screws and bolts? Even threaded rod and smooth rod can be printed out but not sire how well it will do the job

Great that its solved :)

My machines at the time I designed this where not up to the job and some people even had issues with simple parts on there old huxleys and mendel machines.
But it would be super cool :)
Iam currently working on a micro that uses less screws and bolts but its early in the design process so if you subscribe to my channel on youtube will you see the first introduction to it in a couple off weeks.
I sadly enough lately have not much time to spend on my ideas and creations :(
Hope it gets better later in the year as iam a maker.

Thank you kind sir, your contribution is much appreciated! Also looking forward to the new design

Can anyone help me get the z axis homing setup correctly. when it homes the z axis, the z goes down hits the switch then goes up then down and finishes the homing. if you have any backlash in the nut on the z axis then it must first lift the z axis to get rid of the back lash. how can I make the z axis end while lifting the z.

I can't check at the moment, you might search endstop home bounce. I've never noticed any backlash in the Z axis. I assumed the weight of the Z carriage removed the backlash.

Hi guys,

may I ask you how to connect this printer and print something? I'm starting to be crazy form it. I made one, but I'm using for my other printers Repetier Host. But this printer is not possible to connect it. If I set it up like nr. of my COM port, baud rate 115k etc, is connected, but no communication. I have tried other software but every time the same issue. I have tried upload there repetier FW and all is working for the first time, so no HW problem. Unfortunately I'm not able to set up all parameters in repetier FW and use it instead Marlin. Thank you very much for each help

If your using the firmware from the thing files section then your baud rate should be 250000. Cliffs Marlin setup has been spot on for the two Funbot's I've built.

Out of curiosity, how hard would it be to build this with a Cyclops hotend or even a Chimera from E3D? Ideally I'd like to be able to print with disolveable supports or multiple materials. I'm just starting out on my first build and if I can expand on designs with parts I find rather interesting I'm up for the challenge.

Its realy hard for me to tell ??

I have never used any of the hotends you mention :)

But its always how much weight you put on the x axis and I used a heavy mk8 on the first builds :)

I'm well into my build, but I have a slight problem with the bushings. I used aluminum rods because 3/8" chromed pipe proved difficult to find in the length I need. Nothing slides smoothly on the rods as they are. I'm guessing polishing the rods smooth would help? Or did I waste time and money on these rods

I use 3/8" aluminum tubes on mine. K&S brand that you can pick up at a hoppy store. You can either print out some 3/8" PLA bushings, but I used 3/8" bronze bushings with adapters. You can get the bronze bushings from Servocity.com, Fastenal.com, McMaster.com, Grainger.com, or ebay. Depending on the tolerances of the rods you bought you might have to work either bushings in to free it up. Fine sandpaper or Emory cloth may help. Vaseline works well with the PLA bushings. If you want tighter tolerances you might try 3/8" drill rod.

I've got the winged bushings on and it just feels super tight. It slides, but with a bit of force. I'm just at dry fitting right now, I've gotta scour up the money for the motors and electronics. I'll try the Emory cloth and vasoline, I'm pretty sure I also have access to aluminum polish. Thanks for the tips.

Madmike beat me to it :)

Hi guys,

where I can get firmware and settings files for some slicer for this cute printer? I didn't find any informations about parts like dimensions of bearings, metal bars etc. Is somewhere some manual what all is needed, or just that YT videos? I want try to build some little "pocket" printer, but I saw just partly and little chaotic informations :)
Thank you in advance to kick me to right direction :)

Cheers, Jiri

the boom is in the instructions on this page :)

Follow the video guide :)

The Marlin Firmware files for the Funbot are in the Thing Files section. Listed as Marlin_funbot_150222_B.zip

My version of the Funbot uses a bowden setup, and there's a Slic3r config for it in my remix.

Cliff's Video build guide is what I used to assemble mine.

Plastic parts are PLA or ABS?

exactly like mike tells you except for the bushings as they nead to be pla.
abs gives to much resistance and wears down a lot faster if used for bearings.

Either will work.

Thanks mate My kid's and i have had a lot of fun building your Funbot Thank you for sharing it ,much appreciated
We are on our second build now . Ahhh and it works so well

Post up a Make, so we can see it!

Great to here :)

I had a lot of fun designing it also :)

As soon as I have moved to my new location so will I do some more upgrades and start working on iteration 2 of it.

I hope I will be settled there sometime late this month or early august.

How much will this whole project cost me? Just trying to get my funds together before attempting the build. TIA

There is also a Chinese clone of my bot here :)


I do not know how well it prints but if you look closely so can you see that its a minimalized and improved clone.

They simply use industrial parts for the design I made.

Its a kit and I do not know how well it prints :)

It is pretty much wath motors and electronics cost today and that's the most expensive parts.

The last time I calculated it so should it end right under 170-200$ if you get someone to do the prints for a low cost??

But then should you keep in mind that you will have to put in a lot of effort to assemble it :)

If you nead printed parts so do I know madmike do sell them ???

I do sadly not have space or the resources to sell printed parts from my small apartment.

how experienced are you in 3d printing???

Wath will you use it for ??

Before you decide so is that very important questions :)

here is a link to madmikes build thread...


He also made a few upgrades I recommend you to do as the printed bushings can be painfull as they do usually nead the right

type of pla to work well.

Sorry for my short reply but iam currently working on the upgrade model you can see here :)


it will use a built in raspberry pi etc....



There's a pretty close to accurate, Bill of Materials in my thread linked above including Filament required.

Other than that, It cost is whatever you can source the parts for. I had found steppers @ $5 each, Electronics @ $50ish, rods/bronze bushings @ $50, Hotend $20, Print plates @ $16, I have about $45 in printed parts, and Screws/Nuts is hard to say since I had a lot on hand.

I don't sell parts. I had helped in printing parts for a guy near me. It was to complete my RepRap experience where I build a RepRap and then print parts for someone else to do the same.

How many of you have clearance problems with the new y upgrade ???
I got a report that one had minimal clearance on the bed and y motor after he printed it ???
Could probably be solved with 4 washers but its good to know from you guys that have printed it.

I haven't printed it yet, but for the people having problems, just cut the excess off the #1 bed drilling template and use it for a spacer.

That's also a quick solution :)
I my self wanted a slick design on them and didt think so much about how much many printers vary in print output this time :)

My untuned Funbot printing Zombie Hunter.


I watched it mike and love to see that the build works for you ;)

Did you use 0.4 layer height or you still have that problem on the printing height ?

Iam doing a bunch of updates I will put up soon ;)

As soon as its done so will I promote some of the builds and add them in to the wiki etc ;)

The only drawback is that iam slow and lazy ;)

And have my hands full at the temp work at the factory for one week more :)

But after that so are I going to go thru everything and update boom and make it a lot clearer :)

I finally uploaded my funbot i1 build
tell me what you think about it
first I had to use steel rods instead of water pipes
I had to use regular steel linear (noisy) bearings
because I only had a .5mm extruder nozzle, I had to modify your STL files
I also added a bottom bearing so I could use the same aluminum shaft coupler as the x and y axis
I think you should put in bold letters on the fonbot page
all thingiverse uploaders should specify the nozzle diameter they used
I added an anti-backlash nut with spring on the z carriage, that's what I thought the cutout was for on your original z carriage STL file. I just move it to the bottom to allow room for the spring
also what is that square hole cutout from one side to the other for on the z carriage for
tip: heat gun solves most binding problems(not shore with the plastic bushings)

I love it looks like my printer meets steampunk in a good way :)

I wanted the design to be flexible and for everyone to be able to give there own touch on it :)

So please share your modified files as a remix so others that want to use them can use them ;)

I think this could get many repstrappers intrested in the changes you made to it :)

I did write later on that everything is printed on a 0.4 nozzle and actually with exactly the same extruder your funbot now have ;)

They work great and give great prints for the price :)

iam working on some coming upgrades as I write this to make the funbot even better :)

Cliff, I'm going to try building one of these. I'm going to use 3/8 bronze bushings with a printed casing to match a lmu10 bearings. What do you think about using 3/8" aluminum tubes that have about 1mm wall thickness?

And if you have any good ideas for a light weight extruder so are they also welcome :)
I want a true reprap extruder that is simple with little parts to replace the mk8 in the future :)
Do you still have your smartrap ?

Yeah, madmike8 on reprap.org too. I built a Smartrap and followed your wood design. I'll keep you posted on my progress.

I thought so ;)
I have a new update soon also and is a simple one with only 2 8 mm long m3 screws but they do wonders where they are placed :)
they alowe you to adjust the stiffnes off the x axis and even lift the far end of the x carriage if its neaded slightly.
Still testing it and its easy to do with a drill for anyone that already printed the part ;)

Looking forward to updates. I'm Printing parts now! I'll probably post progress in your reprap thread.

I have email notification on so I will know when you post there also :)
But be sure to make a remix page also when you have comed so far ;)

I have actually bought a couple of aluminium tubes also but not had the time to test them :)

The only thing iam thinking about is the wear on aluminium tubes ????

So iam extremely intrested in your project and sounds cool with bronze bushings :)

The good thing about the aluminium tubes is the extreme light weight and they are stiffer then chromed copper pipes also,another good reason is also that the prise on them is usually half the price then copper pipes or even less :)

The us 3/8 should fit well as the entire design is adapted to work with your tubes over there ;)

We in Europe nead to drill them up some more for our 10 mm tubes.

Be sure to check my latest update also on wath I have changed lately as I rotated the extruder 90 degrees to make it less flimsy and not so sensetiv to tightly rolled filament rolls ;)

I have planned to get the thumb out of my b**t and do a Bowden version also but my funds are limited and don't earn to much on my youtube adds :) ( I think I manage to earn 2$ a month on the adds so that don't fund to much :) )

As soon as you are starting make your build be sure you make a remix page connected to the funbot so I can follow your progress ;)

I think its very fun to see wath you out there do with my design :)

For those in the US here is a power supply at a good price:

And these stepper motors are a good buy too. I used them in my Wilson.

BTW the idea of blowing some of the extruder fan exhaust down onto the bed to cool the print has some issues. Firstly it is NOT a good idea to do this with ABS, that will cause the print to warp or even crack. Then, for PLA you don't want to cool the first few layers of the print or you could have problems with warping or not sticking to the bed, especially without a heated bed. With this idea there is no way to control the cooling fan unless you add a servo to control a "cowl flap" to block the exhaust when not needed.

Kenneth, thanks for the tip on the steppers. I ordered a set... The wife is gonna shoot me... But steppers are like shoes... You buy them if they are on sale is going to be my argument... Hope it works... :)

Well now you are committed to building a printer :-) Those steppers are a bargain at that price. Though not the most power in the world, they will work nicely in a reprap printer with lightweight plastic parts and a drive screw for the Z axis. I have four of them in my RepRap Wilson, and they move well with no skipped steps. I would not use them in a direct drive extruder though they might work in a geared one with a large enough gear ratio.

Today I actually got lifted corners when I printed the lcd case for the funbot on the latest one :)

You should never say never because then it happens :)

It where fixed with some more glue on the bed ;)

My results on my Repstrap, which would apply to any printer:

I've had my best results with PLA printing on clean glass heated to 60C. Most prints didn't require the glue stick, but sometimes it is needed, especially if there are small holes to be printed in the first layer. Blue tape on glass with or without the heated bed on works fine, but I get less lifting of corners with the bed at 60C. It is VERY hard to get the prints off the glued glass or blue tape, they come off easy from the bare hot glass once the bed cools back to room temperature.

ABS prints fine on hot glass at 110C wiped with a very small amount of ABS dissolved in acetone (once the glass has been coated with this slurry only need to wipe with a little acetone between prints). My heated bed is home made, 8x8 sheet of 2-3mm thick aluminum with 34 pieces of 68 ohm 5w resistors glued to the bottom with JB weld epoxy glue. Resistors are wired in series-parallel giving about 8 ohms. Powered by a 42 volt AC transformer, the primary is switched with a SS relay bang-bang style. If I switched the secondary with the relay I could probably use PID control.

I cant answer so much about abs as iam usually printing with the not dangerous pla plastic as I live in a apartement :)

First of all so do I want to say that I don't say that you are wrong in any way :)

but I must say that my best prints do I get on my delta with a plain glas and wather disposable paper glue on a stick :)

Some prints are tough to get loose but that's not an issue as the glas is removable :)

My prusa also give great prints but its tougher as the mk3 heatbed do not like all pla I throw at it and suddenly start to curl prints
on settings that have worked for a long time.

The thing I got explained to me is that the heatbed will make the pla cool down a lot slower on the first layers and make it softer
that makes it easier to get distortions on the first couple of layers.

This is very obvious when I swap pla supplier and see how much all pla actually are different.

The only reason there is no heatbed on the current state on the printer is simply that this where a personal experiment to test
printed bushings :)

And its always better to have the option of having a heatbed then no one at all if you get in to problems with a print.

I where actually working on a heatbed option but had to cancel it for now as I simply don't have the time or money for it right
now,but I hope I will be able to buy 2 mk3 heatbeds soon and figure out a good solution to hide a bulky 360 w power supply on
the small design.

Iam my self looking at the project as a fun toy printer project that simply grows and grows and I don't know where it will finally
end :)

As long as I think its fun so will I constantly upgrade the printer and its design to be better.

The only reason I used acrylic for the bed where that its easy to find and get your hands on, but its far from the best options if
you are going to do any larger prints like lcd casings etc. ( the parts will work but acylic cant handle larger prints that will make it
distort during prints and get back to original shape when the print cools.)

The acrylic bed should only be seen as a starting point that will make it able to do its first prints and should be upgraded to a
heatbed or a glas plate on the top that can be removed .

The only problem is that when I start to add all extra components so do I also stray away from the original thought of the design
and become a 3d printer among all the other 4000 various 3d printers out there :)

You probably have more experience with printing PLA than I do, having owned three or more printers now.
I finished my repstrap a few months ago and used it to print parts to make a RepRap Wilson, which I'm still trying to get working as well as the repstrap is. I've not tried using glue stick on glass without the heated bed on though I've used the blue tape on a cold bed. So far without the bed at 60C I've been getting lifted corners on large prints (PLA).

I've mostly used PLA, the only advantages I see to ABS are its higher temperature tolerance (for use in environments exposed to above 100F) and its ability to be joined with solvent glues. I was also led to believe that ABS stood up better outdoors than PLA due to not being attacked so much by moisture, but now I hear that PLA is more sensitive to UV than ABS. I started to print some outdoor lighting fixtures for my walkway in ABS, but I'll probably switch to PLA if there isn't much difference in weather resistance between the two. All of the parts in my Wilson except for the extruder were done in PLA.

My workshop is adjacent to my garage, and I leave the door open to the garage for ventilation when I print ABS. Even so, the fumes sometimes give me a headache if I run a rather long print so I tend to leave the room while it is printing. As soon as the new high temp PLA becomes commonly available I will probably not use the ABS much anymore.

You could print clamps to hold a piece of glass for a bed (like on the smart rap), this would make a good simple bed. Cory Franks on Repstrap has printed all the new parts for his repstrap on cold glass with either blue tape or glue stick with good results.

I dont see my self as more experienced and I do have wrong from time to time :)

But iam always after learning new stuff and never take it so hard if someone tells me if I do stuff wrong ;)

I my self think its pretty weird with the results you get sometimes with even small changes to brand or even only color of my pla :)

It where when I got my delta I first experienced how well pla prints to cold glas and only a thin layer of wather dissolving paper glue on a stick.

They even shipped the delta with a full roll of blue painters tape that made all prints painfull to get off and forced me to find a better solution.

The funbot is still in development and I constantly find better solutions on the things I have done to it,It started as a wather pipe printer but with the new design so can you use any smooth rod or pipe with a diameter of 10 mm.

The weight is no longer a issue like it where on the first design with weaker printed bushings.

Optimal is probably solid smooth rods for z and y axis and use lightweight pipes for x axis that iam still expertimenting with.
Ilike the design I now have and I only have to make it even better :)

About the fan so is it something I borrowed from the delta I have that have it always on and gives great prints :)

Must say that I never have issues with curls and warping on the funbots so far :)

Its not recommended to print abs with the default setting as it neads heated bed to print well.

But I always use the magic paper glue on a stick ;)

There seam to be a lot of discussion about how and when the fan should be on ???

My prusa only uses it on bridges while my delta have it always on and funbot uses the exhaust air.

I have more problems with my prusa to get the prints to stick and where forced again on it to use painters tape on the heated bed

to get good results with pla?

I wanted it to be a cut down mini printer so I nead to do some sacrifices I belive :)

That power supply is eaxactly like the one I also have at home and are planning on doing a bracket for.

But the funbot neads to be slowed down in development now for at least to two weeks as I had to jump in on the factory to work

at very dumb hours.

I have a question I really want you guys to answer :)

Iam planning on doing small kits and wonder wath parts of this printer would you guys want??

I understand that most of you want to print parts your self and iam thinking about these parts prepared.

The exact pipes I use in ready cut lengths. ( 7 pipes) ( and the extra for spolholders)

The base plate cut in right dimension and pre drilled.( un painted or maybe only a base coat for you to paint your self)

The special bed acrylic with laminated aluminium ( 2 pieces)

The rubber I use on my build on the bas sides in right lenght. (you see these in my videos.)

Iam also thinking about selling some of the cheaper parts like the lcd and endstops I think I can buy at a good price from china.

And the bearings that is a small part in larger quantitys from china to get a good price.

I have understud that one of the largest problems is the delivery time when ordering from china.

This is parts I think I can negotiate to get even better prices for if I order them in larger bundles and should be able to sell at a good price.

The electronics is almost imposible to get lower prices on then wath you buy on ebay so that is probably something I have to wait with :)

I have already talked to a web store about putting my stuff there if I see that it would be a request from you builders.

This guy is a friend of mine.


Iam more thinking of this as a service to the ones that want to build and nothing I get rich on :)

do you just glue in the bushings to the z axis? What glue do you use?

Don't use glue as you nead to be able to get them off to replace them when they are worne down later on :)

I made the new ones as my delta printed them slightly smaller then my prusa and they where to loose in the sockets then wath mu prusa did.
So I made the new ones that fits like a glove when printed on all printers :)
Do you have problems to get them to stay in place ???
Don't forget to lube the pipes also with silicon lube from sprayon can ;)

No glue they simply slide in from the top or bottom.
You will nead some force on them but they are stuck there until you use force to get them out :)
If you have problems with getting the bushings to stay in place so do you nead the last ones I uploaded that have the ridges on them :)
Do you have problems on them ??
Keep in mind that you might nead to slide them on the pipe a little the first time to get them to slide softly on some prints with some printers.
But first of all be sure you download the last bushings I uploaded that have the outer ridgeds :)
If you try standard metal lm10uu so do they probably slide out of the sockets right now as they are adapted for the printed ones.

What are the 3d source files done in? I would like to modify some of them but working with STL imports isn't exactly ideal.

It is completely designed in tinkercad free version.
I ended up using it as I feelt right at home coming from truespace when I used to do some 3d modelling in the earlier years of 3d modelling in my life.
And because iam unemployed and don't have so much money so whas I a good solution when I wanted rapid prototyping.
I couldt afford the more expensive cad prgs and found many free ones to be to time consuming.
it can output stl,obj,x3d and wrml ?
Would any of that do ???
That's also a reason why some models would nead to be cleaned up to save some printing time also :)

Is there something that shows the base (MDF board) with the template on it? or a DXF of the board with drill holes on it? I was going to cnc route the baseplate with the holes but can't tell from the STL of the drill template how it goes? I can't see from a completed bot the y mounting that matches up with the drill template.

I have uploaded a laser cutter svg file and hope that helps :)
I also uploaded a zipped png file of the same file that neads to be printed in its natural size thru windows paint or another imaging prg.
I could get it to print in its natural size on the windows media viewer and only worked in paint ???

Comments deleted.

The drill template is for the bed pieces :)
Give a some minutes to see wath could be done in tinkercad in a fast manner???
Should be able to do dxf and svg there and the base is very simple :)

I found a new seller of the same extruders that are based and made in uk. only 1-2 weeks delivery.
I know many of you had problems with long deliverys from china :)
Link added to the boom.

I added the taller Y axis carriage in my mix.

Yes I have seen it :)
You also noticed the new one for printed bushings?
And be patient until you get feedback takes a while until people start downloading and testing your stuff maybe as my design is very young :)
Iam a bit tired as I spent many days and nights lately to finish everything .
Feels like work even if I don't earn a cent :)
I have plans to add a few printable guides to make everything even easier to assemble.
But now will I take a small rest for a few days from the funbot project ;)

have you thought about adding a motor mount plate to the Y axis mounts instead of a bearing and shaft? I can draw how I am thinking if you would like!

then do we nead to lift the entire bed and neads to do another piece that probably will complicate things.
I can look in to it in a later stage but I remember that I found it a lot simplier and cleaner to do something like I did :)
But now when we will nead to move the power supplie so could all that change?
I neaded to follow my first files as close as possible during this latest update to not conflict with the ones that have started to build my design.
Let me finish the latest updates so can we see wath happens next :)
Please post wath you mean as you might think of a solution I never thought about :)
Its wath reprap is about :)
Share create have fun ;)

I plan on building this. I will be using drill rod instead of water pipes cause I cant find that type of water pipe in the USA. do you get good quality prints from the funbot printer?

you should be able to use the 3/8 pipes in the us because iam adapting the printer to have separate printed bushings you easially can adapt and I provide already done ones.
Only keep in mind of the weight on the x axis if you use heavier soultions to wather pipes.
Iam soon going to post a mayor update so wait a feew days and it should be all up.
It have numerous fixes and added improvements to the original construction.
Lesser parts and easier assembly.
All prints I have made with it is top notchj to wath it costs to build.
will never be like the most expensive ultimaker or makerbot but if iam close to printrbot printers so are I happy :)

Will this extruder fit on your X carriage? http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:501755

Direct drive extruder for Wilson or Prusa i3 rework
by mrice

As long as the attachments have the same hole spacing as a nema 17 motor so do they fit.
You will get a smaller print area on the y axis with it with about 30 mm I belive.
Ia doing a major update on all parts and the x carriage have I not started on so far.
Iam thinking about doing some type of default attachment on the x carriage with multiple options where you simply print a smaller plate to fit the extruder you want to use.
When I get the time so are I also doing a option for Bowden systems :)
Its hard to say when I have all new files up as the overhaul is large and will be the final state where I simply add small upgrades to it later on.
if you have any ideas where I should look on good solutions for a default plate to attach multiple types of extruders so please let me know :)
You can see some of the updates iam working on here.

The Prusia i3 rework x-carriage is a sort of standard. If you make your extruder mounting holes compatible with that there will be a lot of choices for compatible extruders.

I think that is the best solution.
I still run my prusa i3 wood box frame to do parts for my funbot when I have it disassembled and is one of the most common ones.
I hope I will manage to upload some of the new files tomorrow.

I have only changed the names of the igus bushings as we nead to use there inner dimensions instead to solve wich ones to print.
I noticed my delta prints them almost exactly in dimensions wich make the largest one with id 11 wobble like hell while my prusa prints it exactly as it should.
So the easiest method is that you download the 3 versions and print he one you think is closest on your machine and test it on your wather pipe in your countrie.
And wich one your printer prints the closest to be.
It should slide gently but not to loose as the will get slightly tighter when clamped in to the holders on the y and z carriage etc.
usa users should start with the middle one and if that wobble print the smallest one :)
The outer dimension is the same on all of them.

I have uploaded my modified igus bushings in 2 versions and will be the default ones for the funbot in the future.
one is for European 10 mm pipe standards and the other one is for usa 3/8 (9.5248mm) and these ones are done so you should be able to simply take them straight from printed state and slide on the pipe smoothly and nead no extra adjustements.
They are half split so they moves smoothly on even slightly uneven wather pipes and still no wobble.
We want the outher rim intact as its harder and more durable then if we starts to drill up the holes on them.
The tiny groves are there to make them stick better inside the sockets and should be very small after printing :)
All about this will be explained soon and if you have started to build the printer so will you only nead to swap ou the parts when you have the time and want them :)
I made it this way as I know some people have started building it already ;)

Iam going to do a larger update on the printer files this week so stay tuned to new designs and updates.
This are done so use the same spacing and screw holes that the old files have but are better and incorporates a lot of the requested updates to the printer.
some of them are ....
a better single base piece for the z axis that already is up.
Because of the request to make he design able to have a heated bed so where I forced to move the power supplie to the underside of the main wood plate.
This also forced me to do some changes to where the cover plate for the ramps should be mounted.
this also solved another request to make it easier to tinker with stepsticks and ramps while finetuning the printer.
In the same wave of going thru the request list so did I also change the mega attachement so the mega is attached properly but still easy to remove if neaded.
and now is this piece also easier to know where to attach it as I added a simple guide on it so it cant get wrong.
I also removed the ordinary acrylic pieces for the bed to a laminated acrylic that have a brushed metal layer on both sides that is also very cheap but sturdier and as light as the old.
The new pieces also make the printer look more commercial and cooler :)
Keep your eyes pealed for update video 4 that will explain this more and show how the changes are intended to be attached.
as soon as I have done some more of the requests so will I do a newer and more up to date build guide to replace the temporary one that is up now with the old pieces.

I got your message and see that you got it sorted and deleted the thread here :)
No question is stupid! you are welcome to ask anything about my design ;)
Be sure to post your build when its done.

Comments deleted.

that's the concept of the new printer i tried to project, but i had to many wobble problems (i use aluminium tubes).
nice job!

Yes its extremely tricky when you have to design something simple and still wobble free :)
I have got rid of almost all wobble movement on the actual connection z to x axis with the new main z axis piece I will upload today :)
It now uses a more solid printed bearing where it have most weight and the old more flexible ones in the back that gives silk smooth movement and I cant see any wobble with plain eye sight at least anymore :)
Iam more or less trying to get rid of some small flex/wobble movement on the high z axis tubes that wth some force could bend or even flex that would affect the x axis if you print at high speeds.
The current one is a fully working printer that is cheaper then the printerbot makers edition and also simplier to assemble I belive :)
I don't have a printerbot but wath I have seen on user videos of it and wath my own prints with this design do so do I belive you get better prints with this one :)
But that is only my own statement as I have the printerbots and smartrap in mind during the whole process and is the designs to beat :)
When you design and build something for free so do you nead to have a goal ;)
But its itching in my fingers to get a printerbot metal that seams to do very nice prints for the price.
Pleace link me to your design as I love to see wath others do !!!

My first (replicable and working) 3DPrinter project

Sorry for the late reply :)
The reason I could see on the single arm version is that even if aluminium is light so would the arm get to heavy there?
You would nead to shorten it a bit like I did and probably use tripod legs to get stability,but that would get expensive with aluminium profiles :)
Looks nice anyway ;)

the arm was projected to be counterbalanced with the extruder or other, i used aluminium because it's the cheeper metal i found, it works good in my x,y axis, but it's a disaster for other :|
i finished it last week, now i only solve some minor trouble, no more printer projects for some time :) .....or not???

Z axis is a lot tougher to get working right with new designs.
usually have much more tourqe and force that can move it in so many directions.
Let me know when you have a video of it in action :)
Maybe I could easier help out if I see it in motion :)
Wait a month and you will be in the sadle again with a new project :)

Cool project! I love how the printed bearings are integrated into the parts and I really like the idea of using chromed pipes instead of smooth rod. I would love to build one, but I'm having trouble finding the metric pipes here in my home town in USA.. but I am going to keep searching.

You should be able to use anything that is round with a 10 mm diameter and stiff enough to hold the weight of a extruder.
Carbon fiber like some competition arrows I belive ????
Do you have 0.4 inch pipes there as they should work only neads slightly more force to fit the bearings :)
0.4 inches is only a little more then 10 mm :)
The printed bearings should accept them :)

Is this a request from all of you that downloaded the files that I put a estimate on printing them :)
I reprint many parts during the prototyping so I could do a estimate on printing each stl and do it something like this.
filename_30.stl where the number is print time in minutes??
Iam planning on doing plates with the parts placed out and could do a estimate on that ??
But the print plates will be in funbot printing dimensions ;) (155x170x120)

I like the design and look of this printer what is the typical print time for printing all the parts ?

That's a tough one as I haven't measured it properly while prototyping the design.
Next week so are I unemployed again and can do some prints to get a approximate time to print the parts :)
But honestly so is it the lcd and z carriage parts that takes the longest to print and they are 3-4 hours each I belive ?
The rest of them do not take longer then max 1-2 hours.
But iam doing some reworks that will increase the print time but give better look and design.

I noticed while uploading the files that I uploaded the wrong y carriage :(
I will upload the right one as soon as the cloud space I store my files on is back online :(
Will also upload the new cable bracket with the reprap logo on instead of the placeholder I used before.