Skeleton 3D : Tiny, compact and transportable 3D printer

by Catastrophe Nov 23, 2014
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Looking back, I was wondering how I found microswitches with 3mm mounting holes, which is what this uses. Most microswitches use 2-2.5mm holes (but still spaced 9mm apart).
My only advice now is to use a threaded insert for the switch... it should be able to melt into the holes meant for m3 screws:
Then you can use M2 screws to mount the microswitches.

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

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Just an update... As far as I know Catastrophe has been busy with other things, but this has been a great printer. There are a few issues had with the design, but otherwise it's been way more consistent than my other builds that have typical X/Z gantries. Once I had the Z homed in, I haven't had to adjust anything since... I just put down some PVA glue stick, and hit print!
Maybe someday this can be expanded to have a 200x200 bed with 10 or 12mm rods? :)

Can someone please share their acceleration and jerk settings? Or whole confing.h file for latest version of marlin. My printer was shaking a lot and a lowered jerk from 20 to 15 but still shakes when printing, specially when changing direction. Print speed is set to 60 mm/s. Thank you!

A few questions about the design:

  • I cannot see any mechanism to tension the X/Y belts. Do you just rely on a good fit for sufficient tension?
  • The angle of "support moteur" is only defined by the motor itself touching "Liaison haute", is that correct? That seems a strange design decision.
  • The STEP/IGES versions of the extruder gears to not contain teeth, there seems to be some export error. Could you check those?
  • The Z lead screw is decoupled from the Z carriage (using "Guide Z") to eliminate Z wobble, that is good. But doesn't the play of "Guide Z" in "Transmission Z" introduce a lot of Z screw backlash? (Problematic when using auto bed leveling)

Put 2 tiewraps with silicone tubing under the plate and melt the m5 brass nut down then no backslsh

Hey... I may not have all answers but I'll try to answer from my experience.
The first question, the belt ends hook onto nubs on the linear bearing holder. So if you want to tighten it, you pull hard, wrap around the rectangular nubs, and zip tie them. It's pretty easy to tighten.
As for your question with the Z pusher, I just ziptie that to the connector of the left and right bearing holders. I have cheap bearings and rods that make it difficult for the z bed to "drop" when the z pusher goes down. It's worked very well so far. I recommend trying to get them more tightly linked... My zip ties don't do it tight enough, but my Z-Hop is minimal so it doesn't affect me too much.

neither the files on Thingiverse nor the ones on Github seem to include the various upgrades shown in the first image: Spool holder, LCD controller box, upgraded electronics box... and maybe more?
Where can I find those parts?


For the spool holder, check "support_derouleur" on thing files.
I never finished the lcd controller and upgraded electronics box but you can easily find some on thingiverse.

Thanks, missed the spool holder files somehow.
Just ordered parts, though I will modify the Z carriage and I will fit an E3D v6 (original) instead of the Aluhotend.

I'm ordering parts to assemble this printer and im stuck at inductive sensor. BOM says 2 sensors are required but i can only see one, on the extruder. Where does the other one go?

One m8 sensor but one 8 mm rod is missing in the bom

Would it be possible to increase the size of the printer with longer threaded and smooth rods?

No, I think there will be some "bending"'

Hello. Just made a shopping cart, ready to order parts and start printing this. I'm reusing most of the rods from my old twoup, which probably saved me at least $100 on this build, which is awesome.

Before I start though.. are you here still? If I have an issue, will I be able to get help? I dont want to start this if you've vanished. Thanks.

Would you be willing to save me (and others the trouble) and share the shopping cart (is that even possible)? I too have rods left over from a ton of other builds I am not even going to bother doing.

I've posted replies to your questions on my make. I hope the hints are helpful.
Also, if you want to make your own PCB-heated bed, check out Heatbed 120mm,x 120mm by kolardan...
This is originally made for the ToyREP printer, which is also a 100x100mm printer.

Heatbed 120mm,x 120mm

I still have about 10 pieces of the 100 x 100 mm PCB heatbeds left.
I had them made for this project at a favorable price.
I can send them by mail to those who are interested at cost.
I live in Belgium, so you can calculate yourselves the cost for mailing.

Can I order one paypal aaronATwyper.co

Ha-ha well this printer is relatively easy to assemble! The nature of the design allows you to assemble each section separately and out of order for the most part... The only thing to plan is getting the motors and the z stage installed. Otherwise measure everything square, and you'll be fine! :)
I'll try to answer your questions but I don't foresee you asking that many. If you can set up your BOM adapted from the Two-up parts, you won't have many issues here...


I'm still here, but I don't have much time to this project.
If you have some trouble, I'm sure PhatJustice or marcething can help you !

Hey... I'm almost done with my build, but I noticed that the X and Y end stop mounts would home the nozzle to the rear right? (At least how it's constructed in the diagrams and renderings?)
I'm planning on using a printrboard with this, which doesn't have MAX endstops... Anyone have any experience in homing to a MAX position on the PrintrBoard?

I had just finished it... my first PLA print ever (I've only used ABS before) and the 20mm cube came out okay.
The way the X/Y/Extruder carriage (and the dimensional offsets of the bearing retainers and end switches) is oriented will cause a loss in the X/Y dimensions at the home position while the nozzle will "over reach" (print off the edge of the plate) at the point kiddie-corner to the end stop switches. I recommend having the "nook" of the carriage towards the rear (threaded rod side) and right (X-motor side) of the printer, so that the nozzle can reach farther back on the plate.

I'm probably not going to make this change since it's only for educational/demonstration purposes if I give lectures.

The design has a few weird points, but overall it's working well after I got it basically figure out. I also have a few customizations that I'll be glad to share!

I'm happy I got through this project! Thank you Catastrophe for sharing this design! :)

you're welcome ;)

do you still active supervising and develop (litte improvements, maybe) your litte 'baby' printer?
i printed all parts, but now i have very small trouble..
the z-plate and the screws without nuts, directly into the right/left-support is not the best. a nut would be better...update?
i want to build the bowden-version, but cannot get the .stl here or by mail. could you help?
should i go to the reprap-forum and your thread there (http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?110,426848,page=8), are you active?

I'm using this little printer for almost 1,5 years now, with the Z plate as designed by Cathastrophe and it works perfectly , without bending or other problem.
The native files , as described on the details page, are on Github https://github.com/Catastropheee/Skeleton3D. These are STP files , that you can open/modify in any 3D drawing software that supports it, like Inventor, Freecad etc . That's how we ( me and a few friends ) modified the extruder http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1013294

New Wade extruder for Skeleton 3D

I noticed the same thing. I wish they released in OpenSCAD so I could help evolve it with some mods... However lateral tension is mitigated by the Z bearing/rods compressing holding it together. The only weakness is with vertical movement, where if they decouple, the Z carriage will move independent of the bed mount... and even if it doesn't break, there's enough vertical flex that would possibly cause the Z bed to pivot along the Y axis... so hopefully your bed (laser cut or otherwise) is thick enough to not flex.

hi, wonderful printer. i will build one..
as on most other projects, some bare mini-help would be appreciated:
What print settings? abs/pla? fill 40%, ....
1-5 assemble steps/picture would be realy helpful...
i will go into adventure, but would really be pleased if you could provide a mini-help to build this thing...

------later on:
i printed the 4 bottom connectors with my cheap chinese prusa i3 in 10.5 hrs. i sliced it in cura, with 40% infill...(maybe to much..)

Comments deleted.

Wow... I have an old Prusa Air2 and I print around 20% infill, and I was done in 4 hours, for the four feet!
The bearing clamps for the top X/Y axis I printed nearly 70%.

are there any instructions on how to assemble this printer. I am still in the shopping phase but a set of instructions or a youtube video would help me figure out what parts to buy in what order. any help would be greatly appreciated.

No sorry, if you want I have some pictures. PM me your email.

I have the list and I want to build one but I have never built a 3D printer before so I might be asking a stupid quesiton but... What is a MK7. Any time I try to look it up it just comes up with a vitamin supplement. Any help and/or links would be greatly appreciated.

Comments deleted.

If you type it in, in the box on top right of this screen , where it says " enter a search term", you won't find any vitamin supplement, but the MK7 exstruder that is meant by the term "MK7". In this case , it is the MK7 extruder drive gear , i Gues , you are looking for : http://reprap.org/wiki/Drive-gear

So why this printer instead of the Tantillus? http://reprap.org/wiki/Tantillus

Because it is easy to assemble with ready available parts ( in Europe anyway ) , gives a superb print quality, and works perfectly with a normal extruder, no bowden.
In fact, it is so good that I am looking to build a 20 x 20 x 20 cm version as second printer, to replace the i2, i still have for bigger parts.

That seems unlikely, the Skeleton3D has all the same major components, motors, electronics, hot end, it also uses several threaded rods, but the Tantillus dons't. The Tantillus looks like it has fewer non printed parts, so it is probably cheaper.

Sorry for the late reply, but I've decided to settle on the Skeleton over the Tantillus.
My reason? Tantillus is a mess of standards. There is a mixture of SAE, gauge, and metric threading all over the place. It's a nightmare to source parts... Where as with Skeleton I just buy a bag of m3 screws and cut them to length as needed. The M5 "leadscrew" is the only odd one there... and everything else is 8mm/M8.

Tantillus is good in that the lasercut frame speeds up assembly and calibration... but that wasn't as good of a trade off.

You make some valid points, also the designer of the Tantillus, Sublime, seems to have vanished, his site for the Tantillus is no longer up. Best of luck with your Build.

Just an update, I posted pictures of my build, along with my modifications. I documented a little bit what I did and uploaded my "major" mods. https://www.thingiverse.com/make:237356
It's an easy build and if I had all the parts at once (pre-cut), I could have built it in a day.
Oh, the old version of Tanillus required you to drill a tiny hole through hardened steel rods so you can use fishing wire instead of timing belts. That's pretty darn near impossible to do, and is one of the most common questions on any forum about Tantillus.
Makerfarm has discontinued the laser cut panels for the Tantillus.

I've already used this printer for two demonstrations. It was VERY handy!

Skeleton 3D : Tiny, compact and transportable 3D printer

Thanks! It (Skeleton) looks kind of complex to figure out, but it'll come together.
The Tantillus laser cut panels were all over eBay one month and gone the next. However, you can still find them at MakerFarm...
Good luck to your builds too! :)

Comments deleted.

Hey! I think there is a mistake in the BOM. The BOM says in total 11 LM8UU but I think this printer needs in total 14 right?

Indeed, sorry, I don't have time to update the BOM :(

Yes, they are 14...

how big of a build plate do you need to print it?

Except for the "support bobine" a plate of 100x100mm is enough.

If the parts are bigger than probably around '80'mm I can't print em' till I replace the y motor in my printrbot simple wood, cause ya have to pull the whole 6/(#5]<[|<>%* thing apart! Anyway thanks! The parts that won't fit I can print at my local library.

And it's me again :D
I assembled the Skeleton a while ago and finally wanted to finish it now. I am at the heat bed and really consider switching the z_plate_support_left/right with the older version you posted on github. The current plate support is really fragile in my build and and the screw connections between the support plates and the support link are bulky to tighten. Also the wood suport plate seesaws quite a bit if I apply some gentle force to it. I can see how the link bends. So why did you choose to exchange the old support plate, which is out of one piece, with a component that needs more screws and is more vulnerable to bending ?

New one is stronger and have less bending.

I'm sorry but I didn't save the old version....

Hey Catastrophe
I wonder if the X/Y axis are compatible to Ultimaker dimensions ? What I want to do is print a Ultimaker hotend mount. Namely this one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:159987
It is really small and would help pushing the print limits a bit further. Also using different fan mounts would be possible.

E3D hot end smallest mount / J-head mount for the Ultimaker

No this does not fit! The Ultimaker uses 6mm steel rods and therefore the linear bearings a smaller.

Sorry for the late reply.
You're right Ultimaker uses 6mm rods.

Too bad because this mount was really sleak by the first look but no wonder if it only has to deal with 6mm rods and bearings.

Good day. I would also like to receive the reel mount stl. Thanks in advance.


I put it on Thingiverse : "support_derouleur" and "cone_bobine_derouleur"

thank you so much !!! Print plastic to join your community!

Hi Catastrophe,

are the STL files for the "Dérouleur de bobine sur roulement" available somewhere?
Thanks in advance

Send you by email!

I can figure out where to plug the Inductive sensor. Can you help me out? Thanks

I plug it on 12V on the ramps and I use a LM7805 to convert the signal 12v to 5v

We're having a hell of a time trying to print the parts with an i3. Do you need a specific slic3r config to get these parts working? Would you be able to share your slic3r config on github that you used to print the parts so we can check if we're doing something wrong? Thanks!

You need to rotate some parts.
I don't use slic3r for my part, I use Cura.

Ah OK. Which parts need rotating?

Almost all of them!

Hey Catastrophe
I've seen on some pictures that you had another Z Support plate (left & right) and Z Top Connector combined all in one piece which looked sturdier and "better".

Could you please upload them or is this part abandoned ?

It was remove because it was not enough sturdy!

Could i made my Twoup 3d printer todo end up like that? Im really new.

Ask to punkrockseb, he is currently doing that with his twoUp

Thanks ill look for him

So basically: Yes.
You can use quite a lot of the stuff from a TwoUp for the Skeleton. You will get a bigger printer area than the original but you also have to deal with the basalt heat bed which is really heavy.

The LM8LUU bearings are perfect for the belt_guidances and the hotend support.
Alot of the screws can also be re-used.

As the linear rods are all 290mm on the TwoUp you need to trim two of those so that the support_pulley_x & y fit. The rods are 4mm to long.
A hint on the threaded rods: Cut them 1cm longer then needed and trim after you put all the stuff together in a dry run. I didn't do it and cut the threads too short so I couldn't mount the motor_supports :)

You'll see when you assemble it all.

Also you can re-use the MK7 gear of the TwoUp extruder if you decide to go with a bowden extruder.
You will need those small bearings which go in the support_pulleys.
Belts: I went with new T2 belts and pulleys (16 teeth in my build; Catastrophe uses 20 teeth I think).

One problem I encountered when trying to assemble everything was that some of the TwoUp rods were very slightly warped which apparently makes a huge difference in if you get it all square or not.

Hey I have another question or problem. I have now assembled all the machincal parts for the X/Y system but when the "Support hotend" is completely in the front and I move it left and right, there is a huge deviation of about 3mm on the linear guides.

See this video:

Any ideas ? All the distances between the "Top connectors" are equal.

I don't know if there is something I have to consider when assembling this machine. So I just guessed how everything fit together and that there is no specific order on how to put it all together.

That's look weird.
Same remark as Alnoa, make sure you have a square top.
You have no problems on X ?
What is the length of your X/Y smooth rod ?
Try to do the same thing but with a motor.

Have you received my last MP ?

I printed the top connecters laying on their side so the print time was reduced. Does it matter in which alignment the connectors are printed ? Is it better to print them in a "standing" position ?

I always print the connector in "standing" position.

Got you PM but the reply function does only work through thingiverse so I somehow forgot to write back. Thanks for the answer !

About the square top. How to I measure the angles if I cannot measure with a square ?
Do you mean that I should measure the distance between corners which are across ? Like from a "X" ?

make sure you have a square top ( distances between oposite corners )

Turned out my left-over precision steel rods were not so precise anymore. 3 of 6 rods are slightly warped. They are 290mm long and have a deviation of about 0.5-1mm over that length.
Found that out after printing the top connectors again (sigh), really carefully adjusting their distance to each other and then inserting the recycled steel rods from my QU-BD TwoUp. This messed up the square angles like hell.
The fcuk, even after it's death the QU-BD TwoUp gives me headaches...

At least, you have the reason of your problem :)

The english BOM is only partly English. Okay I know 'moteur' means motor but as this design is really nice so should be the documentation aswell. A machine is only as good as it's documentation.
I think I miss the "sensor" part as I don't know what kind of switch you used e.g. I don't know which part to get so it fits on the extruder with the sensor slot. I could order some sensors which might fit maybe but I would rather like to know what I acutally need or what is intended to fit.

P.S. Sorry for being so picky :) but I have often stumbled over great things here on thingiverse or the internet in general and all that is spoiling the fun is being unprecise and lack of proper information. No offence !

Hi punkrockseb,

As you can see on thingiverse, I translated the name of the .stl in english on the 21st of december. The English BOM has been updated the last time 2 month ago The current files are just not update and still have the french name of the .stl.

It's a lot of work to keep a "Work in progress" BOM update.

I'll update the new BOM tomorrow with all the last option (sensor included).
Thank you for your remark.

Great ! Thanks !

I have printed all the parts except for the "Support Hotend" and the extruder. Really a fancy little printer. I really like the portable design. Had the same issue with carrying the printer over to a friend and fiddeling with all the wires and fragile (in case of transportation) construction of most other printers.

If you need any help with the English translation you can drop me a PM.

Normally all the files are update on Github.

Don't hesite to send me a PM if there's something wrong.


Would it be possible to just move the motor mounting plates down more to align with the frame rods and just use the rods themselves to mount a 608 bearing with some spacer instead of using the current extra part? This could do away with the 2 bearing supports for the X and Y and have the parts for the belt holders be just 1 identical part. I also noticed in the french PDF you make a reference to a printed support but it is no where to be found (48/2 - Equerre de Stabilisation). Could you upload that here, or maybe the Github? Thanks.

Good thing with the assembled model !

[EDIT] Oh I just saw the assembled model was uploaded long ago. Havn't seen it on github. Anyways this really helps understanding the assembly.

Good idea to use longer threaded rod to support a 608zz for the belt.

The BOM is not update, I'll update it tomorrow!

Thanks, just seemed to fit with everything else reprap. I strongly believe less parts more functionality is always a good thing. Printing up the parts slowly, Might have it built by the end of the week, really excited for this build since I've been having a bit of a wobble problem with my current T framed printer. Looking forward to the speed and stability increase. Thanks for the design hopefully some day you'll release the design files and more people will start to modify the parts with tweaks and improvements.

Natives files are on Github :)

Une nouvelle année synonyme de projets et de réussite

Joyeux Noël!
Un grand projet!

oué BONANé.
Champagne, puisse la SKELETON3D aller le plus loin possible.

Hi! I love this design. As I was thinking abot building a CoreXY or H-Bot or all-that-staff, I have tought about this system. Nice that someone has taken me the pain ahahhaha
Now serious: wanna ask you the speed it gets, as I have a Rostock and would like to use bowden, and have similar speeds.
Another thing: I will be using aluminium M6 rods, with printed bushing (to reduce weight)

Thank you :)
I don't use bowden, but Chipsa develops a bowden version. I don"t know its speed. Personnaly, with a direct version, I print at 90mm/s.

How about its vibrations and noise? I know there are videos, but nothing can compare to be there, you know.
Could this be a replacement for a delta?
Also, how is the quailty of the impressions at that speed?
Thanks a lot!

If you want to know more about the bowden version, speed and noise ask here to Chipsa : http://www.thingiverse.com/make:109193

Skeleton 3D : Tiny, compact and transportable 3D printer

Congratulations! I'm riding with print area 20x20x20. What is the weight of this table that u used?

On the Skeleton the surface is 100x100x110 (millimeter)

How are you securing the extruder drive shaft with the main gear, bearings, and MK7 gear into the extruder body? Is it just a friction fit between the 605 bearings and the body?

I have printed and assembled much of this design. (Great design by the way) But the extruder shaft assembly is fairly loose and slides out too easily. I don't see any way to secure it in place. It seems like the only thing that would hold it in is a tight fit between the bearings and the body.

Hi chriskoz,
The extruder shaft assemvly is "force fit". It doesn't move at all.

Hmmm... the bearings just slip right out in my case. It doesn't take any force at all.

I guess I need to make some adjustments and re-print that piece. Thanks.

Weird... do you use 625zz or 605zz ?

I'm using some 605rs bearings I had on hand.

I just print an extrudeur and the inside is 13.95mm.
Normaly the 605zz is 14mm outer.

The 605rs is 14mm. But, I'm measuring 14.15mm on the extruder bore I.D. I'll check my calibrations and print it again.

Once again... thanks for your help.

It's normal.

I can made a mistake in the file !

I didn´t found any information about the pulleys. What kind of pulleys you are use, 16 tooth ???

I use 20 Teeth GT2 Aluminum Pulleys 5mm Bore .

Hola soy de Argentina y acabo de terminar de armar esta maquina, la verdad que es excelente, solo tiene algunas debilidades en el eje Z, ya que la dimensione para trabajar en un area de 200mm x 200mm y la cama caliente tiende a tener juego, por esa razon rediseñe el soporte de la cama caliente haciendolo mas robusto y los resulpados fueron excelentes.

Rediseño de soporte de cama caliente para impresora Skeleton

Justo iba a ponerme a hacer uno yo! Jajajajaj caben dos rodamiento en cada varilla o solo uno? Gracias!

Buen trabajo.
¿Es lo que usted puede poner su modificación "Remix"?

is there anyway you can show how the fans are mounted looking to see how you mounted the fan on the extruder and the fan with the fan cone, I see it calls for a 30x30x10 and a 40x40x10 fan i take it the 30x30 is for the extruder and 40x40 for cone to cool part as it prints.
thank you so kindly.
i really like the build so far will upload images once i have it done along with a video to support the build with youtube.

I upload a new picture of the fan.
It would be great if you can do a video of the build :)

Hello, I wanted to congratulate you for this design I love, I will build a machine, I wanted to consult you if possible you send me a .stl of the whole machine assembled I will be very useful to assemble, thank you very much, sorry for the English is a translation yet =)

I will do this very soon!

Started printing the parts for this today. I will post when the build is finished. Awesome design!

Thank you woodywong!

I just noticed today's update. It sounds like I should just build it without the added "guide plateau" parts for the time being.

We are currently doing some print test.
I'll release the new parts very soon :)

Hey Catastrophe,

could you please upload the adapted Connecteur_infrieur, Connecteur_suprieur and the 2 aditional supports for the plateau?
I found the 605zz's at Amazon and the MK7 at Reprapworld.
Thanks in advance


I'm impatient to see the first "I made one" !!!

Since it's not finished yet, I must say for now " I am making one" :-)
Thanks for the parts.
I am slicing them and get them ready for printing

Hi marcething,

All is online :
See "Guidage_chariot_avant_gauche", "Guidage_chariot_avant_droit", "Connecteur_infrieur_guide_plateau" and "Connecteur_suprieur_guide_plateau".

Also, I have upload a version of the extruder with the support for the inductive sensor !

What are the settings you are using to print the extruder?
The front site where the hotend goes , is so thin that it is not printed nicely when you use a layer thickness of 0,15mm .
Should i go even thinner or can you redraw the front side of the hole where the J-head ( or Aluhotend or other ) a litle thicker ?

I update a new version, with 0.5mm more on the front side and with support directly in the .stl.

It's already printing :-)
Could you advise where to find the MK7 for 5 mm shaft and 605ZZ roulement?
I don't find them at my usual shop

Look on ebay :) "mk7 drive gear"

I, also am now waiting for the upgraded parts. All prints are done, metal cut, and electronics are ready to go.


Hi mondo50m,

The news parts are online !

Hi Catastrophe
I certainly decided in favor of your Skeleton 3D :-)
I already started printing the 3mm version of the extruder.
I'll better wait for the new "connecteur supérieure" and "connecteur inférieure" and the 2 new parts that are on the orange Photo, that support the print bed. They come next week after testing, if I understood correctly (?)

Great design,
There is just one thing I'd would like to have aditionally , if possible.
As I guess you have to original drawings, could you plaese adapt the "partie mobile" and "Extrudeur" of the extruder for use with 3mm filament (instead of 1.75), please?
Thanks in advance

It's done ;) but not tested !

Thank you,
I will be a little bit busy this week-end. So I'll do this monday !

Comments deleted.

Please ! Post a good pic of printed models. I want to see wall quality.

Hi Karabas,

We are waiting for a 30x30 fan to modify our ventilation.
When it will be done, I'll post some new picture!

How much would it cost to build it? And electric parts, where can I get them? I'm really interested in building one for my brother and one for me.

Maybe around 250$ or less.
You can get an arduino mega + ramps 1.4 in a lot of different store ;)

Is the hotend not cooled ?

As you can see on the first picture or video, the hotend is cooled by a fan :)

Oh yes I havn't seen it :)

I was wondering where I could find a parts list for this printer (for the electronics etc.) Thanks

Hi 3dflyer,

The BOM is on the Github : https://github.com/Catastropheee/Skeleton3D
If you don't speak English use BOM_English.pdf and BOM_Skeleton3D.pdf

I will do a proper BOM in English soon!

Very cool! I like that build you have there :)
Will have to try that some day ;)

Thank you :)

Don't hesitate to ask for help if you need :)

You guys haven't thought about using 10mm wather pipes that are extremely lightweight instead of heavy rods.
I used chromed ones for my build and work great with printed lm10uu bearings.
Its one solution to cut weight.

Good idea,
but I think 5kg is a good weight, because if it's to light the vibration increase.

That's a good point but it would help to make it not so top heavy that the smooth rods do now at the top.
I like the design so I will share it on facebooks reprap groups :)

You're right, I'll try to do this in the next version!