Vica Illusion Sculpture

by chylld, published

Vica Illusion Sculpture by chylld Jan 21, 2011

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This piece was inspired by some artwork at my friend's house, hence I am naming it after her :)

It is a beautiful piece which will confuse most people the first time they see it, as they try to figure out which part leads to where and how!


The Vica is designed to be printed without support. There are 2 sizes, large (20cm tall) and small (10cm tall). Photos are of the 10cm version.


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Wonderful. Thanks Chylld. My Replicator keeps spitting these out, 10 so far. Most at the scale you set, then I tried a few at 99% of max Z height, and they came out great. Bigger is better in this case.

I am using 10% infill, .2mm layer height, 1 extra shell, at 48mm/sec feed rate and 90mm/sec travel. I have one small bit of extra plastic to trim on the underside of the lower arch, otherwise it prints perfectly.

Anyone who holds it asks if they can keep it. Great design! :-D

This looks beautiful in the pictures, I can't wait to print it!

Printed nicely on my Solidoodle. Chylld, I think this one of the most beautiful designs on thingiverse . :)

I posted a time lapse video of my printout of the small one (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fiK4v88E7ZM)http://www.youtube.com/watch?v.... A very nice design and a welcome addition to my PLA cube gallery!

Printed wonderfully on MakerGear Mosaic, 10cm, .2mm layer height!

Just printed this at 20cm. Looks great from my RapMan. There is minor splitting of layers at the bottom, but overall, its a great print!

Printing with Thing-o-Matic. Have 3 bad tries. When half of the detail is printed, two separated parts of the detail start a little moving during the head moves. So, it produces mess at the top.

Sounds like you're printed parts aren't cooling down enough - you might have to use the fan a bit (and/or the SF "cool" plugin)

as i saw, it was like the parts are not enough sticked to the table, or head moves to close to previous slice.

I have installed optional cooler for Thing-o-Matic, but have not connected it yet.

Do you have ideas, how to manipulate it automatically during prints?

i'm not familiar with a ToM unfortunately. but extra cooling has helped me in the past to keep the layers 'down' so they aren't dragged around by the head during the next layer - it would be worth a shot connecting it and seeing how you go.

I built two copies on my SD300 Pro. It was fascinating to study how the intricate topology seemed to wrap around more than just 3 dimensions...then the universe broke!!

Explanation at http://mysd300.blogspot.com/search/label/Vicahttp://mysd300.blogspot.com/se...

"Like" isn't enough. This is in the top two comments I've ever seen on Thingiverse.

the universe tends to do that once you harness the ability to pull arbitrary objects out of thin air :)

cute storyboard!

thanks for a beatiful model. My wife wanted it in pink because it reminded her of the pink ribbon for breast cancer research.

Thanks for another great model chylld.

I printed the large one at .5mm on the RapMan 3.1 .

This piece has pretty good "WOW" value.

Makes me want a RapMan... Dammit that Makerbots don't have quick reversal. :( We have hundreds of little annoying strings to pick away.

that looks awesome! well done :)

This is really cool! I'm printing on my Cupcake with .3mmm layer height at 42mm/s. It's looking great!

i just printed one off too! your print looks /really/ clean, what extruder/printer/settings were you using?

Nice print!

Mine was printed on a Rapman with 35/350 feed/flow rate, and anti-stringing enabled.

i had bet it was a rapman :). they're expensive, but they can do some very nice prints. do you know what mechanism the anti-stringing implements?

The Rapman anti-stringing basically has the extruder go into rapid reverse at the end of one path, and then rapid forward the same amount just before starting the next path. Basically it sucks the filament up between paths :)

The amount to reverse and forward is customisable too

Makebots just recently dropped that functionality in recent firmware. The same firmware that made the all-important HBP fix.

If you want good layer resolution though, 0.3mm FTW. I printed my first one at .3mm layer height, 1.9 perimeter w/t, 1.789 infill w/t, 255 flow, 42 feed. After cleaning, it basically killed the average Makerbot print quality.

Well, that is, on a makerbot. RapMans (RapMen?) do just fine with whatever you throw at them.

For the record, the reason my fresh print below is soooooo stringy is I'm printing with a busted exturder; it can only go forward and takes 600ms to stop. I've used oozebane to minimize the impact but it is what it is until I fix it.

Mine a Thing-O-Matic, .4mm layer height.

oh, and scribblej, i'm not sure if this might help for you too -- but i changed the 'fill' settings in skienforge to print out the inside, then the outside. the effect this has for jumps is that a lot of the string ends up on the inside (or at least, that's what i tell myself, i could imagine a few ways this might be better implemented)

Watching this print now, and even now my mind is wondering how it works. It doesn't look so confusing in your photos. Great model!

It's really hard to take any photo of this which does it justice.

Yeah I struggled to find a photo angle that conveyed the sculpture properly - but that's why I've uploaded the STL for people to print for themselves :)

Even stepping through the g-code slices is quite interesting...

Here it is still on the printer, the "I made it" above is after cleaning.