Japanese Puzzle Box

by david49152 Nov 30, 2014
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Thank you for this. My kids loved it!

Are the magnets required for it to work?

can you plz attach information about joining i don't undertstand pdf info so plz....

Wonderful! Thank YOU! I made one and it works great. Nobody at work has figured it out. To those planning to make this, make sure the internal bar moves very freely, 3n1 oil!!, before you super glue the sides on. I had to take it apart once because of this.

I made this on a Geeetech MeCreator2 which I added a glass bed with PEI sheet on it. Insulated the hot bed, switched to a bowden tube for less weight on the gantry, upgraded LEDs & lower circuit board fan.

What's better than 3in1 is a dry teflon lube. This is basically a white teflon powder suspended in alcohol. You put it on and the alcohol dries leaving the teflon powder. It's nice because it doesn't chemically alter the plastic that you're printing with. The only real downside is that it causes your prints to go white in those areas, so that could be an issue.

Good idea, and then it doesn't smell like 3in1 oil!! I have some in the garage that is for bicycle chains. Thanks for the help.

This is indeed a challenging print. This is indeed a very interesting and well made model. Must have! But my humble printer (vertex k8400) and myself (beginner) is not really good enough for this. The gaps between the moving parts are 0.10 mm, even less between drawer and lid. EVERY touching surface needed filing. Filing, filing, filing, boring, boring, boring. Finally I resized, modified and reprinted the drawer, the bar, the sides and the lid. Please don't hate me. The final box worked ok, but I am sure mine is even more distant from the wooden original. No smooth, silky travel... I say that a raft is necessary for the sides and the lid, sadly. Even the tiniest amount of warping made the part jam hard when slid into the main body. I will try gain, this time after more accurate resizing.

Yup, it's a challenging print. To quote the build instructions (not for you, Stodatgard, but to emphasize it for everyone else):

"This is a challenging print. It requires that your printer be properly tuned for the parts to fit and move well. It also requires printing at a high resolution (thin layer height). Make sure you and your printer are up to the challenge before proceeding. All of the exterior faces of the box are printed against the build platform. For this reason, I highly recommend using a glass platform and hair spray. Using Blue Tape, Kapton Tape, or other methods will still work, but the results won’t be as nice. Use of rafts is highly discouraged."

For you, Stodatgard, the proper approach is not to do more accurate resizing of the STL's but to tune your printer so it is up to the task (two wrongs don't make a right). Not only then will you get a good puzzle box with minimal to no filing, but all of your other prints will be improved as well. Tuning starts with getting the extruder settings to match the filament you are printing with (diameter, temperature, retraction, etc.). Second would be to get the print to stick to the build platform to eliminate warping. This should be easy for you since you already have a glass plate (just add hairspray). Next would be to get the print speed correct so that it prints as fast as possible, but with minimal to no ringing.

Finally, I still do not recommend rafts. I know that a lot of people use them and swear by them. But in my experience rafts are just a kludge, and any issue that a raft is supposed to fix is better solved a different way. I have never, ever, had a problem where the appropriate fix was to use a raft-- and I do prints that are much more challenging than this puzzle box. Just my opinion, but there you go.

Started the build last night. These parts take a loooong time to print! Can't wait to put it together. Going to be perfect for the puzzler on my Christmas list.