Remixed Hellboy revolver (Good Samaritan)

by JersyBeast, published

Remixed Hellboy revolver (Good Samaritan) by JersyBeast Dec 7, 2014


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Remixed this from Danonator's excellent Hellboy Prop (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:71235) and added in the ammo from (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:260664) and the grip and medallion (sorry, can't seem to find the original designer).

I altered the following files to make it a little more "authentic":

  1. The Frame and back-strap are now one piece (it wouldn't print as one piece so they need to be glued together using the pins as guides)
  2. Created a round recess where the back-strap meets the frame in order to glue a spring to "eject" the cylinder when released. I used a slurry of ABS dissolved in acetone as glue, but epoxy should work as well
  3. Remixed the barrel pivot to look like a screw
  4. Made the rivets on the barrel look like screws
  5. Gave space for trigger travel in the frame so a spring can be mounted to give trigger "pull"
  6. Remixed the Trigun barrel (also by danonator) into the barrel to give rifling
  7. Adjusted the frame to give a place to mount the screw for the cylinder eject. I used a spring from a pen to give it an authentic feel
    8."Bored' out the holes to allow plastic cartridges to be inserted / removed.

I used springs from Harbor Freight for the release which work great (when you depress the release the cylinder pops open). It is a little more involved than "print and play", but works GREAT!



Print out one of all files.

Using the two back-strap to frame pegs, glue the back-strap to the frame. Use ABS slurry or epoxy since this part will be under stress from the spring in the frame.

Use a screw to attach the Cylinder release to the frame,

Place small spring (pen spring works great) underneath the cylinder release to give it some tension. The spring should fit into the recess in the frame.

Place medium spring in recess on top of frame and use ABS slurry or epoxy to glue (let it sit overnight to set strongly or it may pop loose under heavy use)

Insert small finishing nail / brad in the hole in the rear of the back-strap so that the cylinder release can grab it. You may want to glue this in place as well for strength. Adjust how far the nail sticks out of the back-strap so that it releases when you depress the cylinder release.

Assemble everything.

When you want to load / unload, depress the cylinder release and the spring glued into the frame will "eject" the cylinder forward. To close the revolver, press the release, close the frame, then release the cylinder release so that it grabs the nail / brad in the back-strap.

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Let me say this is a nice design. I had to split and modify a number of the files to optimize them for printing on the Monoprice Select Mini. Can I get your permission to post the modified files to share with the MP Select Mini user community?

I hadn't read that the trigger and hammer were intended to be linked with filament (but didn't work), so I assumed they were to use a string of filament to provide a bit of a spring to the hammer and trigger, which actually works fairly well. The stay in the cocked position and don't flop around when the prop is waver around.

Thanks so much!

Thanks, but the design belongs do Dan-O-Nator. Feel free to post them, but please also include a link to his shop as I feel it is only fair.



Thanks, but the design belongs do Dan-O-Nator. Feel free to post them, but please also include a link to his shop as I feel it is only fair.



why not include the shells ? I looked for hellboy, couldn't find them, wtf dude

how should i print the frame

Did you figure this out? I'm having a heck of a time getting the frame right

There is no real "good" way to print the frame. Whichever way it faces will require a ton of supports and post processing, so it varies by printer. My printer (UP Mini) auto adds supports, so it may not match yours.

I printed mine facing upwards so that the largest flat piece would be printed perfectly flat

Thanks...I'm playing with it now and think I'm going to split it so that the large circle will bring flat and the other piece will print flat vertically. I've put three holes through the bottom of both pieces (not interfering with any of the notches) so that, once the two pieces of the frame are together, I can fill the holes up with resin putty which will strengthen the connection between the two.

Can anyone point me to the shell file that is the right one for this model. And that base I've seen. Just want to make sure I get the right one. Cheers.

Hi Zane,
The links to the proper thingiverse files are in the Thing Details tab. Just click on the links and they will take you to the other pages where I found them.


For people interested in printing this, try to print everything vertically and think about what sides are most visible.

Comments deleted.

So for anyone interested the length of the cylinder is 65mm and the diameter is 72.5mm on the sideshow props movie scale one. It works out to right about 122.42% scale for the files in here if anyone wants to give it a try printing it. My wanhao just cooked itself or I'd try it out myself first. I printed these at the present scale and loved it.

My issue is that I am currently running an UP Mini, so my max bed is 4.75" X 4.75". I am getting a larger printer next year, but until then I've had to either down scale or slice the files to fit my smaller bed size.

Thanks for the info tho so that someone with a bigger printer can print one out at the correct size!

Thank you for this remix. Literally the first thing I tackled with my printer. Came out great. I need to finish some detail work and take pictures

No, someone has evidently taken the files and is reselling. I personally don't have a store, but if you want one made, email Dan-o-nator and see. Since it is 90% his file, I wouldn't feel right selling his design without his explicit permission.


Do you have detail instructions on how to get the trigger and hammer too work ??? Also what did you use to bore out the cylinder too hold the bullets ???

Not sure what you mean.

As for boring out the cylinders, there wasn't a need. I just printed it as is but reduced the scale down (the original files won't fit on my printers build platform). If you want to scale the actual STL, i would import it into Tinkercad or another program and do it there.

Just a little curious... some of the parts will not fit the build area of the UP! Mini. Is there any chance of a modified version for the UP! Mini?

Unfortunately no. The nice part with the UP family tho is that you can scale within the software. For this one, the scale was 0.85 on everything except the cylinder (0.83) and the cylinder pin (0.875).

Everything was printed on the mini in ABS

Dumb question here. Been looking at the models listed in Thingiverse and I was just wondering if this model's hammer and trigger move?

Yup, Hammer and trigger move. There's actually a hole for you to connect them, but the ratio wasn't correct, trigger moved lots, hammer moved little, so I didn't use it. Cylinder freely spins.

IS this to scale with the movie gun . how big is this gun could you post a photo with it in your hand for comparisin

No, it definitely isn't to scale - as a matter of fact it is actually slightly smaller than the original (by Dan-o-nator) since the print bed on the Up! Mini is only 4.75" x 4.75" and I had to shrink it to fit.

a i see. do you know if the originale is to scale?

No idea, you would have to contact Dan-o-nator. I doubt it tho, as his point was to make an awesome looking prop, not so much something that would be museum worthy. If you are looking to make something perfectly to scale, I would suggest heading over to the replica prop forum (RPF.com i think). They are very strict with measurements and exact dimensions from films, so they would have all the dimensions you need.

Dan0nators thing has the base with ring, as well as another. Here are the links



Hellboy PROP.
Moving grip base ring and chain for hellboy prop thing:71235
by sologod

You re did the grip. Is the piece at the lower end somewhere , the one with the loop on it in the picture? I just got a printer and I am trying to make this for a dear friend ( actually their child)

Great piece, printing it soon, but I don't see bullets is that a seperate file?

Yes, but I don't recall off-hand who the author was (sorry). If you search for Hell-Boy, you can find either the full bullets, or the base and top if you want to permanently glue them in the cylinder.

I love the design, and am well on my way to completion of one to call my own. I have a question about the grip to frame pins. Do you have to drill your own holes? Other than the tube for the trigger wire I don't see where they should go.

Thanks for the support! I think i may have mixed up two file folders - the pins are actually for the Trigun revolver, not the Hellboy gun. Personally, since the bed on the UP! Mini is smaller, I was having issues aligning the frame and the handle, but i wound up just going with glue instead. I might try again to see if I can make an easy alignment pin, but it might be a whie.

Sorry for the confusion, I will remove the file shortly.


Getting ready to print. Just wondering if you were able to print the barrel pointing up, without support. Also, seems like theirs weird layer about 20mm up, as it printed all around the inside cylinder.

Just looking for some helpful advice in printing.


Hi Guitar!
Please note that I have an UP! Mini, so I had to scale it to 85% in order to fit the bed. I printed the barrel facing upwards, as it reduced the need for support. I am not sure about the weird layer, but UP / Afina also is a proprietary program that adds supports automatically, so I may not be seeing what you are.I typically print it with the flattest layer closest to the bed OR the most visible layer facing upwards so that it looks cleanest

did you pull the rifling from the vash trigun?

Yes, your work on that prop was so awesome that I couldn't let it not be used. There is also an internal hollow "tube" between the trigger and hammer so that a linkage can be added later (couldn't get it to work reliably with fishing line, but piano / guitar wire may work better).

beatiful rifling!
wait for a remix with the linkage between trigger and hammer!
nice work!