Prusa i3 Rework X-carriage with additional holes for Wade's extruder

by AndrewBCN, published

Prusa i3 Rework X-carriage with additional holes for Wade's extruder by AndrewBCN Dec 10, 2014
18 Share
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Order This Printed View All Apps


Liked By

View All

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag.

Print Thing Tag

Thing Statistics

40840Views 8175Downloads Found in 3D Printer Parts


This is a remix of the Prusa i3 Rework X-carriage by eMotion-Tech (thing #119616) to which I have added the standard 30mm apart holes for M3 screws and nut traps for a Wade's extruder found in many Prusa i3 variants. So now this X-carriage accepts not only all the extruders designed for the Prusa i3 Rework, but also most of the extruders designed for other Prusa i3 variants.
I have actually verified that the four LM8UU linear bearings provide more stability vs. the usual three bearings in the standard Prusa i3 X-carriage. Also the carriage itself is very well designed, looks good, prints easily and the teeth for the GT2 belt are perfectly defined. I also like the fact that there is a small separator between the LM8UU bearings, so they don't rub against each other.
I intend to use this new X-carriage with the P3Steel version 2.01 variant that I am assembling to achieve higher printing speeds.
OpenSCAD sources are included but need the X-CARRIAGE.stl file from eMotion-Tech to compile.


Printed in PLA with 40% infill. Requires 4 x LM8UU linear bearings and 8 x nylon ties. If using the Wade's extruder holes, also requires 2 x M3 nuts which should be heated with a soldering iron and then pushed into the nut traps, as shown.

More from 3D Printer Parts

view more

All Apps

Auto-magically prepare your 3D models for 3D printing. A cloud based 3D models Preparing and Healing solution for 3D Printing, MakePrintable provides features for model repairing, wall thickness...

App Info Launch App

Kiri:Moto is an integrated cloud-based slicer and tool-path generator for 3D Printing, CAM / CNC and Laser cutting. *** 3D printing mode provides model slicing and GCode output using built-in...

App Info Launch App
KiriMoto Thing App

With 3D Slash, you can edit 3d models like a stonecutter. A unique interface: as fun as a building game! The perfect tool for non-designers and children to create in 3D.

App Info Launch App

Print through a distributed network of 3D printing enthusiasts from across the US, at a fraction of the cost of the competitors. We want to change the world for the better through technology, an...

App Info Launch App

Quickly Scale, Mirror or Cut your 3D Models

App Info Launch App

Treatstock is an online platform that offers decentralized manufacturing services such as 3D printing and CNC machining for business-to-business and business-to-consumer sales all over the world. W...

App Info Launch App

3D print your favourite design with NinjaPrototype, a professional 3D manufacture with consistent quality and speed.

App Info Launch App

What is the measure between centers of axis?

in mm how far apart are the holes please from top left to right

ok thanks for the reply so will this fit on prusa i3 to be honest I bought a cheap Chinese one the printer works great but I want to upgrade to e3dv6 so will that peace you have made fit straight on ps thanks again for your reply in helping me its much appreciated I can send you pics if you need to see what my current setup is like

Is the x smooth rod 50mm apart??

I'm missing something here : where can i find a greg-wade that fit this x-carriage ? I mean, your http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:961630 can't fit with it, right ?
Thank you

Ultimate Greg's Wade's Geared Extruder - 30mm version

Gilles, you need to print a bracket to mount your extruder on like this one. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:57668 I am currently working on printing my own greg-wade extruder for my printer.

Prusa i3 support for Gregs-Wade-Kuheling Extruder
by avalero

Hi, Andrew!
Can you make a mod for it with 1 linear bearing on the bottom of the carriage? I have a regular Prusa i3 but I don't want to disassemble my whole X axis to upgrade the carriage... :(

Hi everybody,

I am posting this comment just so you take note that mokash770 has published what I consider to be an extremely interesting derivative of this X-carriage, which does not require the use of nylon zip ties for the GT2 belt anymore. Take a look!

Estaría bien mas espesor por la parte del Extrusor ya que pega el motor en la P3Steel usando el extrusor Greck ademas que se quedarían mas empotradas las bridas.

Saludos y buen trabajo.

Hola Salvador,


Tengo un extrusor de tipo Greg's Wade's con un motor NEMA 17 de 40mm y este no pega en la estructura de la P3Steel, pasa sin problemas. Que motor paso a paso estas usando? Para las bridas, es verdad que se podrian estar empotradas un poco mas, algo como 0.5mm, todavia esto no me ha causado ningun problema.

Podrias por favor "upload" unas fotos de tu montaje? A ver si tenemos una idea de como resolver tus problemas.



Mi motor es el de 48mm NEMA 17 y por el cento perfecto cuando llega al lado derecho pega en la placa de acero de la P3Steel.

Con el carro estándar pegaba solo en las cabezas de los tornillos puse unos planos y solucionado.

En este caso tendría que imprimir un extrusor que he encontrado de Pablo La Huerta que separa el motor.

He mirado el scad pero no esta la opción del espesor habría que diseñarla y lo veo mas complicado, mirare lo de imprimir el extrusor o alguna separador.


Hola Salvador,

Tienes muchas opciones, listo algunas a seguir:

1 - Cambiar el motor paso a paso por uno de 40mm. Con los engrenages del Wade's no necesitas un motor con tanto torque.

2 - Imprimir un separador de 5mm. Esta es una pieza muy sencilla que puedes disenar con OpenSCAD en algunos minutos.

3 - Cambiar de extrusor. Bueno, esto ya es mucho mas complicado. ;-)



I'm using this for my P3Steel (one without 30mm holes) and I ran into a problem. Badly positioned zip-tie heads can bump into the screw heads in front of the plate when printing or homing, so be careful with zip-tie positioning ;)

Hi Mikus,
That is absolutely correct, I actually had the same problem! :-) I'll take a photo of how to properly position the zip-tie heads to avoid this issue and add a warning about it in the Instructions tab.
Thanks for reminding me!