Robot woman "Robotica"

by Shira, published

Robot woman "Robotica" by Shira Dec 29, 2014

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Her name is Robotica.
I do not know if my profession is to design, paint or modeling. But Robotica has a little bit of everything.

Robotica is an articulated doll. The pieces are joined by elastic cords is all it takes to build once you have printed the pieces. (She wears the same system to steady my little robot http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:555242 )
You can see here as the doll is assembled: http://youtu.be/jnswThHyEy0

More of my artistic works here: http://www.soniaverdu.es/

Is time for giving and sharing, so ...
I have shared this doll without rights to market, but if you are interested in selling it, you can write me, I will give you the authorization to do so you only have to donate 10% of sales price to a charity. I help this foundation http://www.hopesanddreams.org/ , http://www.africadirecto.org or http://quissos.org but you can choose whether you prefer to help with that 10% to other foundations of your country or another in which you have confidence. That is my condition.
If you do not want to sell her I hope you enjoy it !!!


You can choose a head with eyes to print, or eyeless head (this can paint easily and move your eyes, you can hold them with some kind of clay)
I recommend printing oh highest quality for good fitment. No need material support should be needed.

The elastic cord that best fits the figurine is 3mm in diameter.

Layer height(mm): 0.1
botton/top, Shell thickness(mm): 1.2 It is important for delicate parts of the hands and legs
Fill density%: 15
Print speed(mm/s): 40
Interior Support : none . But brim is important as there are only some little spots touching the buildplate, in all except the feet piezs.
I've printed pla 210º (c)

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I just printed one and love it but the tolerances are all way too loose. I will be reprinting her at a later dated as mine took almost 60 hours. The wrist joints were not long enough so when I cut the supports the hands just fell out. I'm printing longer pegs to glue into place hoping I can do it so her hands still move. Other than those things it is a wonderful design that came out flawless for me. Only the expected sanding required at all points that have to be trimmed and cut. Very well thought out model.

I used Solutech Skin colored PLA at 210°c with the bed at 60°c 7.5mm retraction 0.4 nozzle at 0.1 layer height and printing speed of 40mm/sec. I added some cotton pads to help stabilize the legs for posing until I can get some rubber or fix the tolerances.

Going to make one . I love her. just waiting on the filament. Hurry up mail lol

Totally blown away! Awesome, beautiful work!

She is gorgeous--absolutely amazing work!

Apr 21, 2017 - Modified Apr 21, 2017

Thank you, she's beautiful, a perfect present for my best friend. I love the way the hands, wrists and feet articulate, so natural! I had a few problems printing her, needed to add a few more supports to some parts, but all good in the end. Maybe could print 'casco3' in two parts and glue together, my printer did not do a good job on the very topmost part of her head. Also, I found 3mm elastic cord a little heavy, 2mm worked better for me.

What software do you use to design these BJDs? Do you have any techniques for surface finish you could share?

I'm going to paint her, then I'll assemble and upload pictures so as to encourage others. :)

PS, I used Cura to slice, Print Studio to add supports. Printed with PLA on Anet A8, 200°c, 60°c bed. I tried printing several parts at same time, but they got knocked over. I separated elbows and knees too, printed knees one at a time.

Comments deleted.

Thank you for the beautiful design! She printed flawlessly. She's so beautiful that I ended up buying your "Lantea" design too! I hope she resizes well, I would love to be able to mix and match some parts. Thank you again! Please keep up the great work :) There are not enough BJD designers out there! <3

What color filament did you use?

anyone know what lengths to cut the bungee cord?

Has anyone resized her to barbie size

Hello Shira,

would you agree if I publish the remix i made for the helm (aztec coif) ?

best regards

Robot woman "Robotica"

For anyone who is still having problems with the hands, I posted a remix (authorized by Shira). http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1897131

Robotica remix



Same thing here. I tried printing the torso with Slic3r and the ball sockets for the hips just don't show up even in the preview. The printed part ends with a flat top as if the model was designed to with a partial, capped torso. This is with a copy of the file I downloaded July 4, 2017.

Same thing here. I tried printing the torso with Slic3r and the ball sockets for the hips just don't show up even in the preview. The printed part ends with a flat top as if the model was designed to with a partial, capped torso.

owwww, yes!! I forgot to add that, I'm sorry. What I uploaded again, this time is fine. If you have already printed it you can attach the elastic cords to the head, but it is more difficult.

owwww, yes!! I forgot to add that, I'm sorry. What I uploaded again, this time is fine. If you have already printed it you can attach the elastic cords to the head, but it is more difficult.

Me encanta tu diseño Shira! va a ir de regalo de navidad para mi novia, lo malo es que no logro que el simplify3d reconozca correctamente el soporte existente en el chest_busto, queda todo en el aire de la mitad para atrás, como podría resolver esto? gracias!

I have modified the file "chest_busto.stl" Try the new please.
I think you will not have problems now.

Hola Shira... el nuevo chest_busto no tiene el anclaje interno para el elástico, que otra forma tengo de ensamblarlo??

Thank you veryyyy muchh!!

She is beautiful. I'd love to print one and sit her on the shelf with my other dolls :)


Today It was the birthday of my daughter and I give here the femme-bot as a present.
She was very happy with it
Maybe a small thing to mention. I managed after the third print to have a satisfactory result of the hands.

    greetz Peter
Aug 1, 2016 - Modified Aug 1, 2016
ajmadison49 - in reply to pjotrke1962

Agreed, my first attempt failed in a ridiculous blob surrounding the extruder nozzle. Admittedly, I was printing both hands and both shoulders at the same time. And I'm using a transparent PLA which is brittle compared to opaque black PLA. Printing one shoulder at a time succeeded.

(Update) Can't print the hands with the transparent PLA and the Kapton covered glass I'm using for a build plate. I went to check on progress, and right before my eyes, the hand section went from straight up, to being rocked back and forth by the extruder. Which explains the blob covering my extruder. There is just not enough solid material in contact with the build plate to maintain a stable fabrication base through completion with the hand parts as is. Fortunately, I have experience with NetFabb, so I decided to cut the hand sections in two, and place their cut edges down on the build surface.

We need to fix chest_busto4 :)

Thank you so much for sharing your design, it is a beautiful doll! This was the hardest printing project I have undertaken and it really pushed me to learn my tools better and experiment with different techniques. You have brought me many hours of enjoyment :-)

For anyone else who is using Simplify3D, here are a few tips:

  • "Separate Connected Surfaces" will fix the thin wall problem with the chest and generally make things more solid. I used it on several of the pieces.
  • If you are having trouble with the print head getting caught on the curl caused by unsupported overhangs, try setting "Retraction Vertical Lift" to 0.6 for 0.1 Layer Height, or to 1.0 for 0.2 Layer Height. This was the only way that I was able to complete the internal swivels in the hands
  • The hands themselves turn out better without "Retraction Vertical Lift", so I had good results with setting up multiple processes. The first process was used all the way up to the wrist and enabled vertical lift. The second process picked up at the wrist and used no vertical lift. This really made me appreciate being able to have different settings per layer.
  • Some of the parts have built-in supports, but they have very tiny footprints. Even with a skirt some of them (especially the knees) kept pulling off the bed even with adhesive. A solution that worked for me was to increase the Skirt Layers so that it had more contact with the supports. After trying a few different values I found that 4 layers (at 0.1 Layer Height) gave a good balance of support and somewhat easy part cleanup.
May 26, 2016 - Modified May 26, 2016
izaakstern - in reply to matheda

Yeah, it is really hard, you speak right from my soul. Hours of enjoyment, hours of sadness and a lot of filament. When you can print this, you can print everything I often think to myself. But it is worth every hour of work!

Thanks a lot for your hints with Simplify - especially the one with "Seperate Surfaces", that is very great. Before, I loaded the model in 3dsmax and union everything together, that fixed these errors too, but that is so much easier.

Also the cooling is very difficult - working with an active cooling solution when printing PLA is mostly better but especially the complicated parts of the hands where it tends to curl should not be cooled so they stay flexible. There it is also a matter of a matching room temperature

May 12, 2016 - Modified May 12, 2016

So, as far as painting this goes, do you seal it, use nail polish to paint the accents and then seal it again? I typically use Testors Dull Coat for BJD face ups, does that work on sealing PLA, too? (Great design, btw! I can't wait to finish printing it!)

Yes, I have painted with nail polish, after that I have not applied sealing. I think if you apply it, Wil be more resistant to scratches. It's a good idea!

I'm printing this at 150% and everything was going pretty well until the hands. My makerbot 5th gen makes a mess of the fingers, and they just snap off.

ANyone have any advice on how to get them to print better? Thanks!

Apr 12, 2016 - Modified Apr 12, 2016
Shira - in reply to SDGEEK

If you use Cura for laminate, I think, you will not have problem with fingers.

Beautiful work. I ran both the chest and hips through netfab and that fixed up the mesh, everything else was fine. Printing with PETG at 238 on my Kossel delta with no heated bed, but on buildtak with a 50/50 white glue and water mix (more of a release agent) looks really nice.

You are quite an artist, the detail work you've done on your model is super nice, I looked you up and your digital paintings are lovely too.

I'm glad you solved it. Thank you

great project works perfect on my makerbot dual. Thank you

Took a lot of work to get it to print normally. The head and helmet do not print well even after fixing them.

Doesn't matter which settings you use, support or not, or which ever size, the lower part of the head and helmet come out deformed/low quality.

Noticed after printing that the hip pieces are plain and do not have the detail on them as the other pieces like you have pictured. :(

All of the files seem to be corrupted except for the head!

i think there is something wrong with the files (possibly corrupted?) the chest piece does not print it is disconnected somewhere even though it its manifold. i get the the file is bad error when I view it in Simple3D

I keep seeing this problem in many files, it is possible for them to have their normals reverted. I use blender to fix it.

I have the same problem when i slice chest and body in the slic3r. In the Cura slicer everything is ok. But there is another problem with the Cura. It drop's my temperature settings to 50 bed and 210 extruder instead of 110 bed and 225 extruder. I don't know why it's happens , but i manage to print this parts. When it starts to print , i pause it, rise the temperatures and then go on printing.

another user suggested netfabb which worked like a charm but ive not had good luck with Cura or SLi3cr Ive been using Matter control and simple3d instead ive had such an improvement in prints since then

Спасибо огромное! Очень, очень благодарен! =)

My Slicer shows the torso wrong.. it has 2 missing parts i think.. Can you share the file somehow?

I have the same problem when i slice chest and body in the slic3r. In the Cura slicer everything is ok. But there is another problem with the Cura. It drop's my temperature settings to 50 bed and 210 extruder instead of 110 bed and 225 extruder. I don't know why it's happens , but i manage to print this parts. When it starts to print , i pause it, rise the temperatures and then go on printing.

Files are very broken, especially torso sections. Others have very sloppy meshes and rough surfaces where it should be rounded. I would love to print but im not gonna spend days just fixing your mesh. Try using netfabb, and be careful with those z-brush sculpting tools, thats why some of us stay away, it can mess up a mesh very easily and will take forever to fix. Yes its easy to do, but its really not a good idea for printing.

It would be fantastic if these were named for intuitively so we knew what exactly we need.

They are, you must be american....

I am Egyptian and speak Arabic primarily. English is a second language. I don't know much spanish. You must be a condescending prick.

Jun 27, 2017 - Modified Jun 27, 2017
Dimanari - in reply to makertoolz

it took me time to figure out too, just trancelate the names to your own language(or english - if your slicer can't read non ascii file paths) with time and alot of side notes(like mano = hand,hombro = arm and so on) I also speak english only as second language

Edit: I have a vary bad grammar.

Hi, I am looking to make my own ball joint dolls. I would model these from scratch so as not to breach your IP but would I be able to download your design for joint reference? Many thanks!

Of course !, it is good to take references to create. I am glad that my design can inspire you and create your own dolls : )
One thing is "copy" and other get ideas and inspiration
I hope to see your design

is measuring parts for proportions considered "copy"?


Would you consider making a new hand where the fingers are not so seperated so it would more easily print? I'd be happy to contribute a few bucks towards your time to do so!

My makerbot 5th gen has printed msot everything great, but it makes a mess of the fingers. :)

You are a star thank you so much! I will show you my result! I hope I can get even close to yours in quality, it is truly incredible work!

What sort of paint did you use on the body? I wasn't sure how exactly to mask any texture from the plastic I was not wanting.

I painted with nail polish. But I used solvent for glazes

Comments deleted.
Aug 27, 2015 - Modified Aug 27, 2015

Un super boulot ....merci

Hola! Mi padre me ha imprimido tu bjd y tengo una duda, con que tipo de pintura la has pintado? Usaste imprimación? Y como fijas la pintura? Muchas gracias!!!

Lo he pintado con pintura de uñas, no necesita ninguna imprimación. Pero si las piezas se han tocado mucho con las manos es bueno limpiarlas con alcohol antes de pintarlas. Me encantará ver una foto cuando la terminéis : )

HELLO, I like your doll~!!.And I use it remix one new .I hope you will like it

Daniel 's BJD Ball Joint Doll
by yuchibb

Yes, I like it, but ...
I see you've done a great job removing clothes and smoothing the mesh. I'm afraid that I shared with the following license:

NoDerivatives - If you remix, transform, or build upon the material you May not distribute the modified material.

"You've done a great job removing the clothes"

Hahahaha Amazing

Aug 20, 2015 - Modified Aug 20, 2015

Used your grown sphere and socket concept on a prosthetic elbow for an E-Nable project. Thanks for the inspiration Perhaps check it out on Google+

Aug 18, 2015 - Modified Aug 18, 2015

Amazing! Beautiful!! Thanks for sharing ;)

Another beautiful piece! I'm really impressed!

I had the same problem caused by the gap between body and bra :(

May 27, 2015 - Modified May 27, 2015

This is a beautiful piece of work! I just love her!
Can you tell me what color filament you started the print with before you painted her?

Also did you do the head with built in eyes or the ones that were separate?

love the doll .... thanx one thing would u have a simple head cover ? like the ones on your other dolls ? instead of casco3.stl
thanx great job on them

Terminada una belleza de diseño :) gracias :)

She is stunning, well done. Thanks for sharing!

sine i had problems with slicing some parts with Simplify3d i repaired/remixed them.
you can fin them here : http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:721502

Robot woman "Robotica" Remixed Parts

Vaya pasada de diseño, muchas gracias por compartirlo :-)

Estoy a ver si consigo hacerlo, pero de momento estoy teniendo problemas con la parte del pecho y slic3r... veremos si al final soy capaz de imprimirlo.

Mar 2, 2015 - Modified Mar 2, 2015

Hello Shira, very nice Model - i just start to Print pice for pice from and have one Problem with chest_busto4.stl
i slice with simplify3d and after Slicing i see some failurs at the right (when looking on it its left) breast.
it seams that there is a smal hole between bra and breast.
can you fix this please? its so a nice Model - hope to complet thes soon :)
(oh - and it wolud be grate if you can upload one version without support :) )

Thanx :)

Problem is the outer layer of bra is so thin most slicers will fail to print it and will leave the gap. It would be better and easier to print without the gap between body and bra.

i had the same issue using same program just filled it with some glue , did u print Manoderecha3 yet ?. cannot get it to work cant get hand pivot to adhere to the arm wall tried 15 different ways , so much loss of plastic.

Shira, thanks a lot for this wonderful piece of art!

For everyone using Cura for slicing, make sure you have "Combine everything (Type-A)" activated in the expert settings, otherwise you will get slicing/printing issues with some of the parts.

Feb 14, 2015 - Modified Feb 15, 2015

Wonderful Model Hard time finding flesh pla or abs any suggestions?

Comments deleted.
Feb 6, 2015 - Modified Feb 6, 2015

So, regarding printer settings, do I have to make it match exactly, or can i use the Super User Cam Watt configuration settings I downloaded from printrbot.com/simple ?

If not, then how do I change the "bottom/top, Shell thickness (mm)" settings, how much brim do I add, and does the "print speed" setting apply to perimeters only or all speeds (printrbot has travel speeds, perimeter speeds, infill speeds, and so many more I have no idea what is what).

5mm brim is working for me.

I'm printing now with the Cam Watt settings from printrbot site, and it's working fine for me (around 5-6 hours to print lower leg). Thanks for the great model Sonia, it will be a nice surprise for my daughter!

Feb 6, 2015 - Modified Feb 6, 2015
Shira - in reply to MadDemon64

Hello Aaron,
I have never printed with Printrbot I can not help that. But I've seen that you can use Cura software, there you can change all parameters

Slic3r is recommended for Printrbot so that is what I use. However there is a reason why Cam Watt is called a "super user" so I will try using it and see how it comes out. Who knows, maybe it will work?

By the way, the file mano_izq_2.stl is OK to print.

I do not know why fault, sorry .... anyway, the hands are different, but you can make left hand mirror to get a right hand

yep, good idea.
I will make a try.

Hi Sonia, I tried to print the robotica. However I failed for the file MANO_DERECHA3.stl. The model sticked to the print head several times during the printing. Also I changed another 3d printer makergear and failed too. Is there any solution to this problem?
Hope to hear from you.

I am having exactly the same problem with MANO_DERECHA3.stl. I'm on my fifth attempt (with increasingly conservative settings), and it fails in exactly the same place every time. Next time I will try adding supports in Meshmixer....

Jan 24, 2015 - Modified Jan 24, 2015

please Sonia, share the .blend, no one can steal something you give

Great model but creepy. Haha :P

Beautiful work Shira! Printed very well on an Ultimaker Original +, one piece at a time using PLA.

I am about to make a Robotica at x1.5 scale as the trial prints look very good. (pictures in the I made one section) At this scale your sculpting genius really stands out. I found I could print the helmet much better if turned through 180 degrees. I was wondering if you could add another helmet file printed with the top upwards and supports to the front of the ear cutaway and maybe a perimeter support as in the chest piece. I guess you have probably moved onto your next project and might not have the time.
I found that on my 1st Robotica the joints were probably too good as they had no friction to hold the doll in any sort of pose, the elastic would take over and move the joint at even at different tensions. I fixed this by making some "cartiledge" pieces out of 1.5mm self adhesive foam, the sort of stuff sold in craft shops, and applying it to the socket side of the joint. This did not show or make a gap to the joint however it did make the joint behave better when posing as it gave some resistance/friction to hold things in place.
I hope you find this of interest.

Good idea for resistance / friction!!!
Used normally porcelain dolls a piece leather or a thin layer of silicone to increase friction.
I will study the helmet, but for me the position it have now does not give problems and is ideal for bonding head

Would it be possible to take a photo of Robotica and then use arrows to indicate which side Muslo Derch is supposed to be on . Right or left facing forward. As well as the other pieces? It would be helpful to know the piece name and its orientation.

Thank for checking the sizing on the test piece I printed!


Can you tell me - us - what type of paint and colors you used. It appears there are two colors on the helmet. Perhaps it's just the lighting.
I used enamel paint on mine. I've been told acrylics might be better.

For me it is difficult to explain it in English ... I hope to do soon a tutorial video
I tried acrylics on pla filament and adheres well but the enamel paint (alcohol or acetone) is better ahiere.
I used silver metallic glazes and some parts such as the helmet, for grow old I darkened with another enamel brown tones.
You have a good eye!! ; )

This is a very nice piece. Could you you post .igs files or .x_t files for us to play with?

Jan 12, 2015 - Modified Jan 12, 2015
Shira - in reply to Boaprr

I do not know how to export to .igs , I have modeled with blender and after making corrections is very complex mesh. Anyway, this time I will share files only .stl, I hope to share other files in the future

Jan 11, 2015 - Modified Jan 11, 2015

This is a fantastic design. Not only is it visually wonderful, but it's very well done in terms of the mechanics of how it all fits together. The feet and hands each have two joints which are designed to print as one piece and move after (In my case the wrists didn't separate, though; it may be better with ABS rather than PLA).

It's relatively fast to print for something of this size - I printed it in 5 groups, ranging from 1 hour to about 3 hours each. I used Cura for slicing.

It's also very well thought out in terms of self-support while printing. You must use a brim, as mentioned in many other comments, since many of the parts are tall and have a small first layer, and will likely fall down later in the print if you don't.

Several of the parts have sections added which are for support only, and it's pretty clear what needs to be trimmed off.
A few tiny pieces fall due to lack of support here and there but it's no big deal, just trim them off too.
I added a few supports under the breasts (in meshmixer), and a bit of material fell at the bottom of the head (at the back) but that's no big deal.

Many of the parts have multiple meshes, which could cause problems in slicing, but Cura was fine. The 'tronco' has an internal void, between two-submeshes, which I don't think is a problem for support, but it will add print time to define all of its edges. If you run the part through netfabb it will be removed.

Please note: all the L/R parts are non-symmetrical (except the elbow joints). Mostly this is obvious but in the case of the hips, knees, and upper arms it's a little harder to tell, and the motion won't be quite right if you put it together wrong. Use the surface decoration as a guide: the hip joints go in with the 'h' pattern forward; and there's a vertical line on the front of the knee which should be on the 'outboard' side. The upper arms (hombro) have a horizontal ridge below the shoulder, which is higher (closer to the shoulder) in front than in back.

I've printed all the parts but I need to get some elastic cord now, and spend a bit of time smoothing some rough edges in the joints.

Jan 11, 2015 - Modified Jan 11, 2015

I did a quick print of the right hip piece to check for sizing and it seems a bit large. Can you check the size and let me know if it is correct or needs to be scaled down by some factor? Here's a picture with caliper measurements included


Yes, the size is right! 5.10mm

I am having a time with the knees/elbows breaking off the bed after 2-4 layers.

Another possibility: Look on Thingiverse for "Helper Disk Large" and "Helper Disk Small" -- these will help make your print's surface area larger.

Has little surface to grip, so you have to adjust well the bed and put brim adhesion or raft

It keeps breaking the print loose from the layer with the brim now that I have the brim on. I am going to try to move it to the back of the platform for printer rigidity.

I had a lot of problems with those parts too. It was very tricky but I finally found some settings that worked for me in slic3r. Very low retraction and slow it down. Also I used a putty knife that I left heating next to it to press down the edges as they started to lift so that they wouldn't get knocked down when the nozzle passed over them.

WOW!! Beautiful!
Thank you for sharing all this beauty set of files with amazing assembly video included! Yessss! You have a new fan! \o/ :P

Thank you! : D

Twice the right leg with ankle joint and foot failed to print the ankle joint at all. Perhaps its a problem with slic3r? So for now i have 2 left legs!
Note the instructions carefully: NO support but Brim needed.
It doesn't look half as good in sliver.
Otherwise the most awesome print I have found so far.

Your you can try to mirror his left leg to "cure" or other program

Very good work in doing this design. One of the better looking designs here..:)

This is one of the most beautiful things I've seen on Thingiverse. Very nice work!

I just moved, so my printer is down until I can re-arrange a whole new house, but I intend to print this when I can.

wao!! esta increiblemente bien disenado :D

Jan 5, 2015 - Modified Jan 5, 2015

Shira, muchas gracias for releasing this model. She printed beautifully on my PrintrBot Simple Makers edition. I found using 100% infill worked best for me. The only part I had problem with were the hips. They did not sit level on the print bed. I removed the supports you added and printed them with rafting. They came out fine after that. Thanks again!
Do you accept donations?


I am having issues getting parts to stick to my printrbot simple. What methods of adhesion are you using?

Blue painters tape.
For this model I had to specify BRIM for the hands/arms. Let me know if you want all of my settings.

I have the same issue with the ball hips, the support seems a bit to high and floats in the air while the bottom of the ball hip touches the built plate.
Maybe you could give your updated version to Shira so she can upload it for others who are having issues (like me).
(so far printed head parts and the 2 body parts without issues and printing arms as I type this).

Currently printing in black ABS but might try printing it with laybrick as well.

True was not aligned ... and I've rectified, please try it with the new files hips

That's strange what happens to the supports of the hips. I'm glad you solved the problem.
Yes, I accept donations to continue working. In my country it is difficult to be an artist if do not know important people. You can enter my website there is a page for this www.soniaverdu.es
Thank you very much!

Just saw the original model pictured listed on EBAY, Is this you actually selling it on there? That's a really tempting impulse buy for me :)

Excellent work by the way.

Haha .... Yes, I am selling on ebay.

Jan 4, 2015 - Modified Jan 4, 2015

Hi Shira.

First of all - great work!
I have printed one of your previous designs(the jointed robot) and it just melts hearts of anyone who sees it.
A delightful body mimicking and beautiful 3D print modeling! Bravo!

I did however had trouble with the hand's rings - which came out hollow underneath and i had to glue those together along with the head antennas, which also had a hollow space underneath them.
Also the left hand's finger needs more support as ended up printing it three times, but otherwise - pure joy!

Do make more, please.

I'm glad you made it!
Thank you very much for your words

A beautiful creation...fluidity in solid parts. Best Bot model to date! Thank you for sharing. : )

Muchas gracias : D

Dear Shira, what is the cinta elastica in english? Would you be so kind to point it in e-bay?
Thank you in advance for valuable info to replicate this perfect model.

it's elastic cording, the fabric or hobby shops may have a good weight of it.
I haven't printed her yet, (don't have my own printer) but I've got resin dolls with similar jointing.

Rubber cord? Watch the youtube video pointed in the description and you will see what it exactly is.

Jan 4, 2015 - Modified Jan 4, 2015
Shira - in reply to rodrifra

Yes... Thanks you Rodrifa!
Best to join the pieces is to use an elastic cord 3mm (this is hard to enter) also can use 2.5mm or 2mm
I have not purchased any internet shop, sorry, do not say ..
In Spanish they are called "strings paratrooper"


Fantastico diseño!.Gracias por compartir. Estoy imprimiendo ahora ambos pies, el izquierdo se imprime correctamente pero el derecho parece faltarle la "union de rotula" entre el pie y la pierna??

Villamany, espero que lo hayas podido solucionar haciendo el espejo de la pieza que imprimes correctamente.

Hola, lo siento que mi español no es bueno, perro con tú programa, hace una acción de espejo en la izquierda pierna. Con optimismo, ¡toda va bien con tú imprimir!

gracias TheGreenFilament!

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Hi Shira

Beautiful model. I am using a MakerBot Replicator 2X and I have printed all of the parts except for the right forearm. It prints that part about a third then the extruder tangles on the centre of the forearm. Is there any way to correct this?

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Is very strange that you can print the left forearm and right no. They are the same piece mirror. If the file of the left forearm is well, I advise you to do your mirror piece from that file

Hi Shira

Still having problems with that mystery sphere in the left arm. Do you have any suggestions for me to remove the sphere, or do you have an updated file? Very much like the model and wishing to print it off for my partner.



Jan 3, 2015 - Modified Jan 3, 2015
robertwallace - in reply to Shira

For me, all of the left-side parts were missing something such that in the preview (of Simplify3D) much of the part was not rendered. When I sliced them, whatever flaw was in the model was auto-corrected and the result printed out OK.


I've noticed that many of the left-side parts are 'inside out', i.e. the surface normals point inwards. This doesn't apply to the little support pyramids, but only to the shape itself. So if you load into meshlab, for instance, these areas are black instead of gray (black is used for the 'back' of a mesh).
If a left side part is created from a right side part by mirroring all the coordinates, without re-ordering the vertices on each triangle, this is what will happen - the vertices in each triangle are supposed to be in CCW order as seen from the outside, so simply mirroring the coordinates also has the effect of turning the part inside out. Many slicing tools won't care, but others could get confused. In particular, the 'inside' sphere cutting a space away in the 'mano' part would become an outside sphere, and might be seen by some tools as the 'proper' part.
Also, it seems that both hands (the portion with just the fingers and palm) are inside out. You can manually invert normals in Meshlab; also, putting the parts through netfabb should fix all of this automatically; but Cura doesn't get confused by inverted meshes, I didn't need to do anything to handle these issues.

Thanks Shira

It is the right arm that prints ok. Will try a mirror of the right arm as the left arm.

Amazing work, thank you for sharing with us. We know this takes many hours to complete and appreciate you sharing the fruits of your labor. What did you use for the metallic parts of the finished boll in the pictures? Cant wait to print this.

Thank you!
This time I paint with nail polish, these glazes have a nice shine, and adheres well to the surface

Hello Shira,

Could you tell me please which filament you used to design your doll?
The "flesh" dyed/color is certainly more preferable than the airbrush, isn't it?

Thank you very much for your help.
Kind regards

I'd buy it in a store Spain, you want to know the address? is PLA filament. Surely send abroad is expensive and you can find it in your country ...

Hi Shira!
I'm from Spain.
Please, can you tell me where did you buy this 'flesh' PLA. I like it!

Felicidades por el diseño. Es precioso. Mi hija se ha enamorado de él y me toca imprimirselo...

Hola Vicente, muchas gracias!
yo lo he comprado en http://store.thingibox.com/es/4-filamento pero ahora no tienen, si les escribes a lo mejor lo reponen. Es muy difícil este tono de color en España...

Me pondré en contacto con ellos.

Yes, please ;o)
Thank you.

I used flesh filament. I have not painted with an airbrush, but the airbrush would be perfect if you do not have the "flesh" filament color .
I painted on the filament with silver glaze.
Sometimes I paint with nail polish, these glazes have a nice shine, and adheres well to the surface. Also there is plenty of color and brightness

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What piece are you having trouble with? Any of the pieces should be printable on a mini at full size.

Makerbot mini cannot do the finer resolution needed for these details and it does not do ABS. There are a lot of models that just won't work on it. We need to make a better printer with it! We're researching our options.

I have an ancient makerbot cupcake that could easily print this model. I personally just printed this model at a layer height of .21mm and it looks fine. Are you saying the makerbot printer software limits the print quality somehow?

The designer, Shira, printed this model in PLA not ABS.
You should give it a try, post your results perhaps we can help.

I have rectified all files: normals and slightly simplified mesh
I hope the problems are solved

Brim is important as there are only some little spots touching the buildplate, in all except the feet piezs (Werner Stein, Thanks for your suggestion).

Thank you very much everyone for your comments I am very happy that you like my design!

Jan 1, 2015 - Modified Jan 1, 2015

Vraiment magnifique. Romantisme, sensuel, érotique et surtout magique, tout y est. Très belle réalisation.

I am having a spot of bother getting acceptable results with both of my printers, a ROBO 3D and a Duplicator 4. With the given settings and some creative variations the PLA curls up when printing the overhangs. I now have a very sad looking pile of heads which are beatiful once past the printing in thin air stage but deformed below that.
Could you tell me the nozzle size you are using before I machine up some more for my future attempts and perhaps some details of your printer and filament.
Your design work is inspiring and a credit to you, thank you

Hot End : 0.4 mm and filament 1.75 pla
I have rectified these two files (with blender and http://www.netfabb.com/): 4 pieces elbows and knees.stl and head with eyes.stl
Please let me know if that solves the problem.
looking forward to hearing from you

Hi 58webbing,

I was able to print the head and it look promising. I used the version with separate eyes. See Photos and description here:


Robot woman "Robotica"
by wstein

thanks for your help : )

Jan 1, 2015 - Modified Jan 1, 2015

Here some Megaman mod I'm working on: http://i.imgur.com/ydpXtKQ.jpg

It's work in progress but expect this standalone helmet and arm canon to be released really soon. Excellent doll so far, no printing problems. I'm going to post my print once I have all the pieces together.

Amazing job, this comes on the list. It would be a great present for my daughter.

Keep the your great spirit and creativity alive

thanks a lot


Increible trabajo me daré a la tarea de imprimir tus diseños.


This is the most beautiful object on thingiverse. Very nice work you have done here Shira. I will be attempting to print this at a slightly reduced scale. Thank you for sharing!

Thank you very much! Please when smaller print it, tell me the results I have curiosity. A little smaller maybe not give problems, but if you do it much smaller may not work the joints of hands and feet.

Today, I have placed four pieces together in one file to make it easier to print (elbows and knees)
And I've rectified the normals of these files: "cabeza con ojos2.stl" , "chest busto.stl" y "casco2.stl"

Great design Shira!
Absolutely professional and artistic looking doll. Very clever usage of the elastic cords and excellent instructions. I'll try to print one doll.

BTW, which program you used to design the doll? For me it looks like Maya or 3D Max.

Thank you very much !!
I use "blender"

Great to know that blender can be used to model for printable .stl's! Wonderful ball-jointed doll, Shira! This is the most compelling project posted. I can't wait to see some of the finished BJDs photographed and posted for us!!!

Very nicely done. The parts are wonderfully thought out and your assembly video is clear and helpful. I'll to try and print a giant version on my Z-18, just to see what happens.

owooo , "a giant version ", I have to see it !! hope you get

I have a Maker bot replicator X2 and a Flash Forge Dreamer and sadly I can not maker her in either printer ,
ALL the slicing programs I have give slicing errors in the model :(
Flash Print states there is an error in the model , and if I slice it with slic3r or skeinforge , Makerdesktop or Simplify3d ALL end up with different slicing errors causing "holes" ect :(
some of the Holes are not obvious in the preview of the slicing programs and only become obvious during printing ,
I have only tried the Head and Chest so far but both are having these errors :( any ideas how to fix this?

Hey Senyac,

I've got a Rep 2 and had no problem printing this (though she did up-date the elbows and knees and I'll reprint these to compare).

Maybe you've complicated things a bit. Do you have Makerware installed?

I didn't have any issues printing any of the parts except for a few quirks which I assume were in the file, but had no functional impact.

I simply downloaded it straight into makerware, made settings according to her specs, and bingo.

I'm not a "slicer" so I might be blowing smoke. But it's such a great piece that I would hate for anyone who wanted this piece to be unable to do so.

Good luck.

Yes I have Makerware but for some unknown reason the makerware leaves a seam down the front left side of any thing I print :( at 1st I thought it was a hard ware problem but could not find any thing out of place , So I Brought Simply3d software to use with My Makerbot Replicator x2 and the Seam problems have gone away if I use Simply3d but sadly even after the lastest Makerware update it still creates a seam ????
As For Slic3r software , I don't actually use it , well sort of lol
I have a Flash Forge Dreamer 3d printer too :) It uses Flash Print software , the Flash Print soft ware gives you the choice of 2 slicing engines to use , Either Slic3r or steinforge . Both these engines were also having slicing problems until I run the models though netfabb :)

I printed the head and cap fine using slic3r (the latest version) on a gMax printer. I used the no-eyes version. Try that version if you are not having success with the eyes included version. There were gaps in the chest at about 2.5 mm using slic3r but I switched to Cura and the gaps disappeared (though I'm not done printing yet). I've printed about half the other parts using slic3r and they look fine. With hope I will be able to post a photo of my completed version by New Year's Day. Gracias Shira, gracias.

I have gone up "ojos2.stl head" and "chest buesto2.stl". Had inverted Normals, I hope the problems are solved ...
I used Cura to print and did not give me problems.

I actually found the new head to be worse the than 1st one , when sliced 1/2 the head vanished :(
I did what cyclone suggested and ran ALL the files though cloud.netfabb.com and they seam fine now :)
I will post photos once ive finished Her :)
I am a Fan Of BJD I have a Volks 1/3 Dollfie Dream and Danny Choo's Smart Doll and have been designing my own BJD to be
3D printed but have been having trouble with how to do the joints ect lol So I hope to learn more from making Yours :)
Thanks Senyac

You might consider putting the files through cloud.netfabb.com
It fixes normals and unions all the pieces into a single manifold part. The overlap of multiple objects might be causing some of the other slicers to create errors. I have all the objects corrected, but it might be best if you attached them here rather than me making a derivative.
The web based netfabb does a few more operations than the downloadable netfabb basic.
Also, I loaded the stl files into blender and noticed that the feet objects refuse to automatically point their normals outward ([TAB]->Ctrl-N). You can flip them manually but blender is convinced that the object is inside out.
Would you consider uploading your original Blender file?

thanks , I will try another print run in the coming days :)

Dec 31, 2014 - Modified Dec 31, 2014

It's awsome, i will print one for my girl. And I have one question, do I need make support for this model? Thank you very much!!

No support needed, there is more information related to how it should be printed in the instructions tab.

Ok, I will try it tonight, thanks for your quick reply:)

Very artistic doll! It may take me a few days to print and assemble, but I'll post a pic when I'm done.
Thanks for sharing this.

Very nice, thanks so much for sharing!

I love your model! Can you add some helmet variety? Like some hair maybe?

I will remix it soon if you don't mind and make a female megaman version out of her.

Actually the licence is "non commercial, no derivatives", so you should ask for explicit permission for any derivatives on different licencing terms, at least if you wish to share your customization.

Muy buen trabajo. Ya tenia hecho a Hugo, ahora tendré que hacer a Eva :D

Me encantará verla! esta te llevara más horas con tu impresora : D

Thank You verry much for your superb models!

Thank you very much for all your messages, I'm so glad you like it! to see who is encouraged to print ... it takes a lot of work to printer

Thank you! this will be awesome to print and paint!

This has got to be one of the nicest and coolest things I've seen on this site. Great work, keep it up!

They needed her in the movie Heavy Metal!!! She looks AWESOME! Can't wait to make her. Your creativity is Genius!

Great design, great offer, great deed.

She is fabulous. Reminds me of a female robot from Starchaser, which was an 80s cartoon film. Marvelous!!!

Loubie, Thank you! did not know her! yes, she looks a bit

Beautiful model! I was so excited to find this. I have a couple questions about print settings for this model. We are using an Ultimaker 2 and we're having some issues with the model not wanting to print. We had the same problem with your other robot. Is there a particular layer height or speed we should try? Thanks!

it may be the program you do you use? I use "Cure" http://software.ultimaker.com/
It is also possible that "normals" have invested stl files
I will review the stl files to see if well "normal"

Hi Shira, thanks for your quick reply! We are using the "Cura" software that came with our Ultimaker 2. We didn't change any settings, we just loaded the files as high quality and tried a test print. How many pieces do you suggest printing at one time? Or do you print certain parts in groups?

This is such a gorgeous model I hope we can get it to print. I've been trying to get a ball jointed model for some time that I could use to 3d print dolls.

Thanks again!

I print one by one, I have not printed several at once.
That file has given you trouble?

Ok so we should try to print each piece of the model separately? We attempted to print the head front and back, the torso, and the upper arms all at once. We were able to get the model to load into the Cura software fine, but once it began to print the parts we kept having issues. I'm going to get back into the software and check our settings against what you have listed and try printing one piece at a time to see how it goes.

Yes Best separately ... I think it's a lot of information for the cure ..
well I hope you get it. Please let me know


I sent you a private message. I would like to talk to you about your models when you have a chance.

Thanks for your time!


Hi Shira, thanks for getting back with me. I'm going to try it again right now. I'll let you know how it prints as separate pieces. Thanks for your help!

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This is fantastic! I am very curious as to the software used. I can't wait to get home to print this! Thank you for sharing!

I have wanted to see a printed, wait a photograph. : D

This is brilliant

Thank you so much!

Another AWESOME project!!!!
Thank you so much for posting it

Thank you so much!

just.. wauw...
this deserves a tweet.

thanks a lot!!! : D

How unfortunate, but my printer cannot do work this fine.

I think what you can try to print less fine. There joints that maybe do not work on hands and feet, but I have not tried to lower print quality, that can not happen

truely (awe-)inspiring :-D

did you have some sort of template (like an already existing/physical doll, or a 3d model) after which you modeled all the ball-joints - or did you learn that (art!) somewhere and designed them from scratch?

Dec 29, 2014 - Modified Dec 29, 2014
Shira - in reply to Jooxoe3i

I've designed from my dolls modeled by hand This was the first sketch.:

For a long time I design a doll handmade, the modified many times until the pieces work well, because I had no knowledge of them and have never had a doll bjd purchased. From this design I made a Robotica

wow, thanks for the picture! - always interesting to see how things are made

She is so beautiful and inspiring, I'll like to print one for my kid, thank you.

thank you!

What a beautiful, well-crafted design! Thank you very much for sharing this!

thank you very much!!

It´s really awesome!

Great work!

Thank you!!

Wow, this is really impressive! Great work, beautiful design. Thanks for sharing.

Your Jointed Robot was also great, but this is far beyond. It seems to be perfect. I'm curious waiting for your next designs.

Thank You! I hope to surprise you in the future

This looks awesome! Nice job!

Thanks You!!

Thanks a lot for the beautiful design doll, sometime in the future I am surely going to try printing this.

I hope to see your picture!

Very cool design. Thank you so much for sharing it.

I've been working on a BJD design and as a complete layman on BJD in general this will be very helpful in figuring out the interactions of the joints to the limbs. Thanks for the help and inspiration.

Thank you very much! And I'm glad I inspire you