Okay guys, the boat is actually really simple, and printing is the longest part!
Print the sponsons and the Aft float assists completely hollow (no infill) with at least a .6mm wall thickness. If this wall thickness is not met, the will likely break when inserting the Sponson Arms. Depending on quality, and your printer, the boat can be printed in as little as 3 hours, or as long as 8+.
* Parts and opening may need a bit of adjusting or cleaning up depending on your printer accuracy
1) Insert Sponson into both Tub halves, and clean up the tup opening if you have to.
2) Use medium thickness CA around the stepped area to join the two tub halves (dont forget to keep the sponson arms between the two halves, otherwise they will be very hard to insert later!). At this point the halves will be joined, and the sponson arms should be loose.
3a) These next steps can happen in any order. I prefer to glue in the aft float assists. To do so, I put a layer of CA all around the "male" insert, then along the inside (the side that will meet up with the tub) perimeter, to keep water out. Then insert that "male" pegs into the tub, and press lightly until the CA dries. Repeat for the other side.
3b) Apply CA to the opening of a sponson (do not fill it! or it will splooge!), now simply insert the sponson ALL the way until it comes to a complete stop. If the sponson is NOT inserted all the way, it may end up crooked causing a bad turning tendency. Now apply a fillet of CA around the joint to ensure it is water tight, and secure. Repeat this step for the opposite side.
4) Now your hull is almost complete. At this point all the pieces should be together, with the sponson arms still loose. Align the arms (sponson tip to sponson tip) as accurately as you can, ensuring they are straight. Tip: you can measure from the back, outer corner of one sponson, to the back outer corner of the (same side) aft float, adjust until BOTH sides measure the same. This is crucial as incorrect alignment can cause a ill-handling boat! Now that you are sure everything is straight, apply CA in a filleting fashion around the Arm and tub joint, then to the same on the other side.
Note that your fillets are VERY important to ensuring the hull is water tight.
5), drill out the motor mount, and bolt in your motor. Slide the motor and motor mount into the slot provided on the tub. Now, insert your full length bicycle spoke (2mm diameter!) into the shaft guide tube, and align it with the output shaft of your motor! Accuracy is crucial or there will be a lot of drag on your motor, which could possibly burn it up! Once your are content, glue in the shaft guide tube, ensuring a water tight seal with CA.
6) Cut prop shaft to fit properly. Threaded portion is for the prop (which is self tightening) and should be at the very back of the boat. The smooth portion will be CA'd into the end of the motor adapter, with the other side of the adapter threading onto the motor (again, self tightening)
The rest is pretty self explanatory. Assemble rudder, and electronics as you see fit.
The provided motor to shaft adapter, is deisnged for the common prop shaft size for 250 size quad copters! If you are using a smaller motor, it is crucial that you source or make your own adapter.
My set up:
Maytech 1806-2300kv motor
10A Turnigy Plush
4g 4ch Air RX
460 Mah 3s (too heavy, the boat is better the lighter it is!)
micro servo (6g)
2 blade prop
If you use the same or similar power system, the drive line will work, however it may require minor modification to fit just right. BOTH props, as well as the motor adapter are SELF tightening. Locktight or glue is NOT required.