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scottvader

Cycloidic Vase (t-glase)

by scottvader Jan 3, 2015
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Printed this on an Ender 2 with the 1 mill model, and it is waterproof. Thanks for uploading!. Now going to print the 2 mil for stability.

The stl file has a top on it, and sure enough, even though I use S3D in vase mode, it tried to print the top. The result was a bit of a disaster. I don't understand why vase mode is expected to ignore the top. Nice design though. I will print again, but stop before it gets to the top. Funny thing is that S3D allows you to stop at a certain height expressed in mm, not layer number, so it's an educated guess where exactly to stop to just miss the top.

Attached file shows what my print looks like. I printed it in PLA and somewhere near the top, it broke free from the glass.

As in almost all vase models, you need to put "Top layers" to 0.

Could you possibly post any images of the loft setup in solidworks I'm struggling to imagine how it would be done and am wanting to create similar things. Thanks

Comments deleted.

hi there, Love the design.
I would like to print it but the 3D model looks solid? how to I make this have a wall thickness and be empty inside?

Thankyou (I do not have a replicator machine btw)

You have to use S3D Vase Mode ;-)

What material was this printed in and who manufactures it?

Hi Sarah

This is a new material made by Taulman 3D called T-Glase. It's optically clear PETT plastic. Beautiful stuff and much tougher than PLA. Note that it needs a larger nozzle than normal. It should be 0.7 mm dia or more and it must be extruded slowly. The website says 12 mm/s but I had to slow it down to 8 mm/s to get that high level of gloss and clarity. http://taulman3d.com/t-glase-features.html

Scott

Its not new, its been around for a few years. BEWARE this is an exotic filament and it takes a lot of time to master. This guy just took settings off their main site suggestions, its not "intended" to have highly visible layers, its a result of the settings needed for a clear vase, and the layers are actually less visible here, as you may have noticed.... This guy is new too so beware advice till he learns the material. Ive been using it for over a year and you can do FAR more than this, ive began making internal layer defects on things like bridges to get better surfaces with reflective negative infill by over extruding by 0.01mm. Its a complex process, and again, beware advice from the new guys, it takes an engineer/scientist to operate these machines at a professional level. I spent 13 years, myself, on 4 degrees since 2005 during their launch to be able to get into it, a cross study of 3 different fields. It was fun but im perhaps, a little cocky now and it looses me friends sometimes. but whatever, its not my problem they feel insecure. (see what i mean? lol) ... No, but seriously, you have been warned lol. Email me if you need help ([email protected]). Ive specialized in this stuff since it was released, i even got an early sample and was the first one to ever successfully print a gear heart from tglase :D , which you'll find nearly impossible lol. A lot of the problems here are counter intuitive, like LayWooD3 so be prepared to be frustrated and lose lots of filament.