These files can create replacements for the Sphinx and Anubis game pieces from Khet 2.0. They are made to fit a Khet 1.0 game board, so this is basically an upgrade from 1.0 to 2.0.
My photos only show the red pieces since I have some other things to print in red before I switch out to my silver filament.
The build takes a little effort, so I'll put the build info in the instructions section. If you have any questions or find any mistakes, please leave a comment!
I hope you enjoy it!
(Stuff to buy)
2x laser pointers (small cheap ones) $8
6x LR44 batteries $3 (for a pack of 10)
6x LR44 battery holders $4 (about)
(Stuff I already had)
Soldering iron and solder
Hot glue gun and glue
3D printer with red and silver PLA (luckily already had both colors!)
So I spent about $15 making a full upgrade set. (minus mistakes, more on that later)
First you'll need to find some mini laser pointers. I found some on Amazon. http://www.amazon.co.jp/gp/product/B00E5ZQX3E
I chose the 1 led, 1 laser combo key chain pointers because they seemed small. They run on LR41 batteries, which means I can substitute LR44s, which are easier to find for cheap and have easy to procure battery holders (at least for me). I picked those up at a local electronics parts store. Radio Shack would probably have this stuff if you can find a Radio Shack that actually carries parts and not just cell phones, but I digress.
Second, print the Anubis replacement pieces as they are. I used a 20% fill for most of these upgrade pieces. The fins in the bottom of the base are there just for support, so you can remove them or leave them there. They're pretty easy to remove.
Third, printing the front and back Sphinx replacement pieces requires a bit of rotating in your printing software. I use Cura and it's very easy to rotate. If you can't do it in your printer software, the SCAD file is available. Rotate the front and back pieces 90 degrees so that the inside cavities are facing up. This should prevent all overhangs and the need for any support material. The base and button I printed at 100% fill for stability.
Fourth heat up your soldering iron, because it's time to prepare the laser pointers. Unscrew the back and remove the batteries. Pull the front cap off (if it's hard you can use pliers) and remove the laser assembly. Mine were wrapped in tape, so pull that off if it's there. Follow the circuit from the battery spring to the front button nearest the laser barrel. If you're using the same laser as mine, that's the negative terminal on the front button. You'll solder a black wire to that front button in a second. Now, desolder the LED, battery spring, and button furthest from the laser barrel and then cut off that bit of the circuit board. (my photo shows most of this) I used the wire cutter on my needle nose pliers to do this, then smoothed it out with a hobby knife.
Fifth, mock up the battery holders in the printed base. Line them up so that it's easy to solder. If you look at the photo I included you'll see that I tried to line up the negative terminals to the positive terminals on the other holders. We are soldering in a series so that our 1.5 volt batteries combine to make 4.5 volts. Fill the gap between them with just enough hot glue to keep them together. They will fit snugly inside the base and may poke out of the top a bit at first, but that's why the body is recessed as well. When the glue hardens, remove the holders and using two pieces of wire (I use white for my series terminals), solder positive to negative on 2 different pairs of terminals. Essentially we are making the batteries touch front to back. If you're still not sure of what to solder by my description and picture, please google batteries in a series and learn a bit more before proceeding. You should now have 1 negative terminal and 1 positive terminal. Solder a black wire to the negative and a red wire to the positive. We're almost done.
Sixth, combining the battery holders and the laser is pretty simple, but I learned some important points through trial and error. I'll let you in on the secrets to save you some cash and stress. Start off by soldering the black (negative) wire from the battery holders to the previously determined point on the button of the laser pointer. The positive terminal is the laser barrel itself. DO NOT solder to the laser barrel. It is made out of brass and it conducts heat VERY quickly. The focusing lens inside the barrel is plastic (along with the screw holding it in) and it will likely melt before the wire will affix to the barrel. I recommend simply pushing the positive wire under the barrel in the front half of the body. There is enough space and it should fit pretty snugly. You can use a bit of hot glue to fix it in place. The pieces are designed so that the laser barrel will poke out of the front of the body by 5-6 mm. However, before you go gluing lots of things in place, you will need to figure out exactly where things will line up. This alignment process is very important and will determine how many times the laser can bounce from mirror to mirror before it starts missing pieces altogether. I don't have much advice on this just yet, because I'm still working on it myself. I'm close, but I need to wait on another laser pointer to arrive before I can get it perfect. I tried to solder to the barrel twice (in different spots). The first time was a disaster with melted lens and screw. The second time I removed the lens and screw, but when I replaced them I somehow ended up with an elongated laser dot. Again, don't solder to the barrel. I think you should aim for hitting 6-7 mirrors without missing the 8th target. This is about the accuracy of the built-in board lasers. The mirrors on the game pieces are usually what cause the laser to deviate beyond that. Currently I can hit a target after about 4 mirror bounces. Not terrible, but not good enough for a regular game.
Finally, after aligning everything, you can close up the body. I just put a bit of hot glue on the flat spaces between the two halves and quickly pushed them together, but you could use epoxy if you want more time to line things up. Same goes for the base, but it is important to make sure you have the laser square with the base. Otherwise you've wasted all your laser alignment time. Hot glue the battery holders to the bottom of the body and you should have enough clearance so that the batteries don't touch the game board.
That's it! You're done! Enjoy your Khet 1.0 game set with the 2.0 rules!
(I've tried to proof read all this and make it as clear as possible, but if you find any mistakes or have any questions, please leave them in the comment section.)