Victorian House Construction Set

by Herrigold Jan 12, 2015
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Hi Herrygold, great piece. I was wondering if this would print out on a sla/dlp resin printer? I realise I would have to rescale it slightly to fit the bed but I haven't got any idea of what potential setting I would need to use, would you be able to suggest..

I think a resin printer might have problems with this. I've heard that printing things flat doesn't always produce good results. This guy is all about printing flat, thin pieces.

But I have no personal experience with resin! You should ask some other people. You could also just print one piece and see how it turns out.

Would love the drawings to laser cut instead of printing.

Hi I have printed one complete building and was perfect in all sections. I was wondering if it could be scaled to 50% for a model railway.

Hi there. 50% might be a bit too much. I haven't tried it, but I'd say the walls would be too thin and the dovetails would be too small. But you can always try it out! Filament is cheap. If you want to try it out, I would just print out a front wall and a side wall and see how it turns out.

Thanks, good points, I will experiment a bit to see how it works.
Loved the finish you get. I am printing on the latest Aldi Cocoon and no problems with corners lifting etc. Using ABS extruder temp 235C and build plate 110C

Great model. Perfect for skirmish war gaming.

I was wondering though if anyone has remixed the sides so you can print them out as just "flat" sections (without all of the detail) so they could be printed out faster. When putting down a section of say 3-4 buildings touching each other you can't see the sides of the buildings anyways. This way you could print out a side with just flat outside layers and infill which should take considerably less time to print.


Actually I do have the same question :-)
Is there a hint where to find one ?

I added another version of the sides called "Plain"

Your fantastic !
Thank you very much :-)

You rock! Expect a tip coming your way.

Thank you very much, kind stranger!

I'm trying your suggestion on thicknesses and am printing now.
The first roof piece was fine but for a few holes. I am not able to mirror it.

Well, perhaps with the new settings, the mirrored roof piece will print better? Your slicer should show you how well the lines will turn out.

I have been trying to print the files and find the second roof, mirrored roof, is not complete. Is there a fix for it?

That's unfortunate! What identifies it as not complete? The mesh isn't all there?

The meshing gets thin and ragged and the bottom right corner is missing.

Hmmm. I know it's a complicated piece, and it looks a little ragged when printing out the tiles, but it shouldn't do that. Maybe make sure the top/bottom thickness is enough? Like 0.4mm or 0.6mm? Did the first roof piece work OK? Can you mirror that object yourself in your editing program? Sorry it's giving you grief.

Hi, can you tell me what settings to use? Rafts? Infill? Medium or High?

I just printed the Floor1_01 on Medium (0.2 layer height) with no rafts and 20% infill, and it literally fell apart in my hands taking it off the bed... I'l love to get these printed as they just look awesome! :)


One more thought. Some people's slicers don't like my models because I nest pieces inside each other. The solution is to use a piece of software called Meshmixer and find the option called "Make Solid" which ties all the polygons together.

Using Meshmixer's "Make Solid" gives me quite a fuzzy mesh, which settings do you recommend?
Which software are you using for modelling?

That seems to be the trick (still printing, but so far so good!)... Thanks!

OK, so 1mm shell thickness, 0.4mm top/bottom thickness, 20% infill. I do 0.1mm layer height... don't know how that affects it. I use Cura and a Printrbot Simple Metal.

Actually, I think my layer height was 0.2mm. I'm not sure how that got changed.

I'll check when I get home!

Hi there, I've tried printing the roof parts ( all the other parts wen't super). But the roof parts just won't print well. I prefer to print with raft because then It all go's smooth. But your roof files just only have a raft under it at 2 small sides. Making it sag in. Without rafts it also isn't so keen on it all.

Have you encountered something like this?

I think I understand... this is a complicated part because I wanted it to have a little bit of sag, and I built it at an angle. But that means the base isn't perfectly flat (as far as I remember). When you print without a raft, the problems go away, but I could see that if you want a raft then it may only find small areas that touch the bed.

I guess the answer would be to make sure there is a flat base to the whole thing. I can try to build one. I'll try to remember tonight.

aaah that would be great thank you :D <3

OK, I've posted new versions of the roof parts where I made sure the lower surface was completely flat. Give them a shot.

I have started printing out the part which look great , but I dont understand why on the one upstairs end walls
why it goes to the trouble of making windows up near the top of the ridge but then from layer height 4.68mm it
proceeds to cover them up , I cant see the point in that ?

Oh, that's just the way I made the model. Sorry about that. I don't think it makes too much difference, except for a little more plastic for that detail. I'll see if I can clean it up.

no its not a problem . As a newbie to 3D printing I thought there was perhaps a reason for doing it that way and I just wondered what it was .

The detail is very good

Very cool! Thanks for sharing!

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Very nice, thanks so much for sharing! Can't wait to try printing them.

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We use a little spray mat to control the warping. Turn on Skirt, start the print, kill after skirt. Lightly spray mat inside skirt area. Let dry a few minutes. Remove original skirt. Restart Print!

Love this, great work.

Most impressive. Great Job with the details. This is a great addition to our community. Cant wait to add this to my sons trains set.

I've modelled this building specifically smaller than scale so that I can fight around it in a skirmish game. I'd say that it's 1:100 and HO is 1:87, so you could just shrink it by 87% and it would be right for you.

I can't say that the dovetail joints will work when printed out smaller, but well worth it to try it out.

Wait a minute, did you say your design is 1:100 scale? Then for HO which is 1:87 don't you have to print it LARGER?

Yeah. You're right. Sorry about that. I hate thinking about scales, I'd much rather just see if it looks right! In my defence, I think that true scale never looks quite right and if you were actually wargaming or piloting trains around buildings as they were supposed to be, you wouldn't be able to focus on the figures or trains.

Anyway. Yes.

See above! I was a bit wrong about scales.

These would be nice for my HO train set. So if these are 28mm...how much would I have to scale it down to fit HO?

going with a old "NEUFERT"-Tabel its: Radius = 65cm to 85cm for normal standing Human. so its 65/2,8=23.2<x<85/2,8=30,35.

Oh yes, I've printed 5 so far. If I was to guess I think that I could have done all five on one 1kg spool. Just a guess though.

Love it! Have you printed any, or gotten a sense of cost from a printer?

Thanks! I wanted to get versatility from the same build.

Cool Idea with the interchangeable pieces.