Hey! This thing is still a Work in Progress. Files, instructions, and other stuff might change!

Toyota 4 Cylinder Engine 22RE, Complete working model

by ericthepoolboy, published

Toyota 4 Cylinder Engine 22RE, Complete working model by ericthepoolboy Jan 22, 2015

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All my models are printed on a Prusa i3 kit. You can find the one I use by clicking the link below. You can get 15% off by using code "GBTE"
Tronxy Prusa I3

Completely reverse engineered Toyota 22RE 4 cylinder engine. Can completely print a fully rotating model. Working crank, pistons, and valve train. The valves open and close!!!. It may not be the most exciting engine but its the only one I had in my garage. Great if you want to learn about engines and how the moving parts in them work. All parts are printed except for a few bearings and fasteners.
More than 3 days of total print time.
The block alone was 34 hours. So make sure you have a well calibrated and reliable printer.

Some print times calculated in Cura at .2mm layer height
Engine Block - 40 hours
Head - 23 hours
Valve Cover - 10 hours
Oil pan - 14 hours



Update 05/29/2017: Please look at the remixes of this thing. There you will find other parts and improvements that I and others have made. Like a stronger drive motor that drive the flywheel directly instead of using a belt. I have also updated the cylinder head to have the valve on the proper side.

Update 02/01/2015: Updated the oil pan, timing cover, and rear main cover to use 4mm x 2mm disc magnets so that the oil pan will stay on better. Glue magnets in and allow each magnet to be exposed roughly 1mm above surface to allow a gap between the block and the oil pan.

Note!!! Connecting rod caps and spacer .125 were not scaled properly. Way too big/small. Updated 01/27/2015

Update 01/27/2015: Added ported version of head. Has 3mm holes for spark plugs or LEDs for future upgrades. Print with support touching build plate. printed nicely, just a good amount of support material to remove and clean up. But you can see the valve moving if you look through the ports.

Update 01/27/2015: Made intake manifold. Lower can be printed without any support. Upper as been split into two halfs to print and then glue together later. I also uploaded the whole upper intake if you want to print it with all support. Manifold attaches with 4mmx2mm magnets just like the header. I used 14 magnets total(7 on each side. 5 on top, 2 on bottom) due to the weight of the intake. I assembled the lower, upper, and throttle bossy with m3 SHCS but you can glue it if you want. Will upload a new version of the head that is ported with spark plug holes tomorrow. Just test printing it now.

Update 01/25/2015: I made a header for the engine and uploaded it. It printed wonderfully in Cura with support. Make sure to select "touching buildplate" for you support option as the header is hollow just like a real one and if you don't, it will fill the inside with support. It's held on with 8 4mm x 2mm disk earth magnets epoxied in.

This model was reverse engineered from a 22RE Toyota engine, All modeling was done in SolidWorks and the STL files were scaled to 35% for printing since that the biggest my printer could print. All parts were printed in PLA on my RepRap original Prusa. There are 80 printed parts in this assembly, not including any fasteners or bearings. Probably a whole 1kg roll of plastic.
The model can be built in different stages, if you only want the short block then only print those parts. The head is completely removable so you can see the pistons moving and also the valves opening and closing. The oil pan is attached with magnets so you can take it off and see the crankshaft moving.
It's a complex print and model. Total print time of the block at 35% scale of the original was just over 34 hours. Just the head print time was 20 hours. Make sure you have a well calibrated and robust machine if you want to print this. It's definitely is a challenge for you and your printer. You can scale the model even further but sourcing bearings and fasteners will be an issue.
See the hardware list for all none printed parts, bearings are all common bearings used on 3D printers so they should be easy to source. Hardware is best sourced from bolt depot since you can purchase individual quantities. For the valve springs, I formed them using my drill and a 1/4" ratchet extension as a mandrel. I used 0.023" steel mig welding wire but you can use anything similar. The outer diameter of the spring should roughly be 0.470". Each spring has 10 loops and just stretch it long enough to keep the valve closed. I wasn't able to find a pre-made springs with the right size and spring constant. If somebody does know of a spring that will work with this please let me know.
For Drive belts to connect the fan pulley and the electric motor, I used rubber bands. The crank pulley and electric motor pulley are setup to use a timing belt but I never got around to sourcing one. The teeth spacing is for a gates extra light timing belt. 1/8" wide, and .080" pitch.
If you do decide to print and build this model you will probably run into some fitment issues due to different printers, plastics, etc. If you have any questions let me know. All STL files are good, they have been repaired with NetFabb so there shouldn't be any problems there.

I'll upload assembly drawings in the future when I get a chance.

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Hello! This is amazing, I am absolutely blown away...!!! Is it feasible to print this at a smaller scale (scale it down 50/75%)? Thanks!

Im building this in school.
It will be 45% smaller
BTW im 14 and i am a mechanic

If you have a smaller printer, it is not impossible, you can still make this motor. I used netfabb to do "plane Cuts", cutting pieces that are to large in half, then using plastic fusion cement, I fused them together. I have made this motor on a Monoprice mini select printer. I do have the files of cut parts if anyone would like them.

what design software did you use

Ss it possible to cnc this out. And let it run on fuel?

Is the kit still available? Link ? Ty

thank you very much for your work . Any recommendation for dc motor to power the model ? rpm output ?

Can you use magnets 1/4 diameter by 1/16 thick?

What size are the four holes on the back of the block supposed to be? The engine stand will only accept 3mm and the holes on the block are too big. I assume inserts are meant to go in there?

Jul 17, 2017 - Modified Jul 17, 2017

I am having a problem with the timing cover scale. I have printed 3x now and the size is not correct. It is about 1/4" too short. Width is perfect though! I have even opened the block and cover both in S3D and overlapped them to ensure the sizes are correct and holes line up perfectly! I wish I could post a pic, because this is so strange. The hole openings are perfectly concentric for the gears and the thru hole for shaft. I am so confused as to how this could even happen!

Jun 22, 2017 - Modified Jun 22, 2017

Google "Lee Spring Company" for the valve springs. I'm sure they'll have something that will work.

Great model. making it for a show in september. so my visitor can see what u can make with 3D printing.

What kind of spring is used in het head for the valves?

How big of a printer do I need and or what are the dimensions of the block

I printed it on a 200 bij 220 mm bed.

I can't get the Gcode created for the Head. I'm using Cura? Any thoughts?

I had no problem slicing the STL from CURA, I did it in multiple versions. have you updated to the newest version of Cura???

I figured it out. I didn't know I needed a raft to add support. Thanks for the help/

Stay tuned. Im putting together a side draft intake, Weber Carbs, and filters


My expertise is not 3D printing, I have been doing bronze and aluminum castings for several years and work in petro bond sand and investment castings. Anyone interested in trading wax or PLA prints for castings? This could be a running miniature GASOLINE engine if the plastic parts were investment cast in aluminum! I would not try to investment cast things like crankshaft, connecting rods and camshafts. Bolts, screws fasteners are all purchase items. I could give insight to building the head and block patterns so that the water jacket is cast in place. I have several air cooled and water cooled designs to work from which mostly exist in blueprint drawings, some are CAD based, most are not.

Mohave Gun
[email protected]

For this notice of Work in progress, are you forecast when you release new version? I already printed the gearbox, I'll print the engine, but I do not know if it will change much.

anyone had a problem where the gears in the timing cover is so tight that it has a hard time rotating and feels like its binding up?. Before I start filing the teeth down a bit to allow for play, has anyone had this problem and came by a solution?

I filed them down :)

Started printing last week using my almost 3-year old, still printing awesome "Da Vinci 1.0" but hit a brick wall with the larger files (engine block, head) failing to load using XYZ Ware. After failing with multiple retries (even replacing the USB cable did not help), decided to load the SD card directly with the gcode. Found this neat utility here by Tai: https://github.com/tai/decrypt-xyz3w. Generated the 3w file using XYZ and used the above utility to convert (basically, decode the base64 file) to gcode.

Cut open a hole in printer using Dremel and used a SD card extension cable. Then copied the gcode file in the SD card and renamed it to "SAMPLE01.gcode". Selecting to print the "Demo" sample print, got everything working.

Almost completed 50+ hours of printing and ordered some parts on eBay. Will post once I finish the project, perhaps in the next few weeks.

(Hope the above comment is useful for others facing difficulty using Da Vinci 1.0. I was surprised there is no record on the internet about 1.0 failing to load large STL files).

Please help me decide which engine to do next..
I'm leaning towards the Porsche Four cam, but would like to get some input.
Keep in mind that the inline 6 cylinders will most likely
not be able to be printed in one piece on most printers.


Hows about a VW VR6 engine, preferably with a Non-Res Miltek?

Thanks for sharing your designs :)

Hello Eric, your skill is amazing! I'm 72 so I missed all the cad stuff, however, I do work in wood and bondo. I made a 33% model of a 500 cubic inch top fuel engine complete with a 14/71 supercharger and all fuel lines, dual distributors, front mount fuel pump and 4 hole air intake scoop on the blower. I can send you all dimensions and detailed photos of all aspects of the engine. I have a different purpose in mind for the engine. Its use is confidential for now. I would like to speak to you about this project and where you would fit in.

Have you chosen a new engine to model yet?

oh please please please do the Supra Engine!!!!!!!! I wish I could vote a billion times for it haha.

Feb 16, 2017 - Modified Feb 17, 2017

Hello - my 3D build is looking great so far = Fun!!

Any chance I could get a list of the hardware you used and the quantity? (Screws, Motor, Nuts.. Ect...) please?

i just published the files resized to 1:10 scale

Feb 10, 2017 - Modified Feb 10, 2017

Just a little tip that I first discovered building a Wallace G1 with PLA rack and pinion drives on the X and Y axis.

Get a product called Super Lube (I know it sounds corny) which is a synthetic lube I've been using since the mid-80's before synthetics even became popular and some flux brushes from the plumbing section of your local hardware store (Or buy a big bag at Harbor Freight if you have one nearby.) Use the flux brush to apply a thin layer of Super Lube on the inside of the block, the piston sides and the teeth of all the gears. You don't want to goop it on you just want a thin thin layer. This will make the engine turn noticeably smoother and even more noticeable is the reduction in noise. Just remember a little goes a long ways and on small parts like linkages I use water color brushes from the dollar store

Super Lube is inert and 'food grade' so there is absolutely no harm to PLA and in fact it keeps the friction heat down which can make PLA soften. I haven't experimented with it on ABS so I can't say for sure it will work there over the long run (I've coated the PLA racks and gears on my Wallace G1 over 18 months ago with zero negative affects) but it should work with ABS too OK

Looks like something i would like to make - so i started last night and in 18 hours got the block printed and it looks great - I have a lulzbot mini so i had to reduce the model parts 20% because of the print bed size - i know it will make the screws a different size than it would have on the full scale version - My question is - before i print out all those hours of parts - will the model still work at 80% size? Hope So!!

The hardest part will be finding bearings the right size. If you aren't worried about driving it with an electric motor you probably could mock up and print your own bearings/bushings, it's just going to turn a bit harder

just wanted to warn u
BKRC is selling these in 1/10 scale on shapeways

Its not a model...

Would this mechanically work if it was made out of metal?

Read my earlier comment... I am new to the forum, I am looking for someone willing to trade wax or pla prints for metal castings. These prints are easy to sprue up and cast in aluminum and bronze, cannot do all the parts because some of the parts must be machined to fit in order for the engines to run. Talk to me! [email protected]

Only if you had some really tiny fuel lines and injectors or a very tiny carburetor. And if you replaced all the magnets with actual fasteners. And if you sealed it all with tiny gaskets. the oil and coolant galleries aren't functional but at this size it'd probably work as an aircooled engine.

Look on youtube under 1/4 scale engines." Stinger ", he spent a long time perfecting the oil delivery system and ten's of thousands of dollars doing so.

Where dose the electric motor go? How do you put it in?


Comments deleted.

How big is the block ? Looking into buying a printer and really want to do this! Just want to make sure I get a big enough one

You need a 200mm x 200mm Print zone to be on the safe side-- the block is just under 17cm long - the valve cover is 19.5cm long which is the longest part,,,

Comments deleted.

has anyone tried to scale down the engine block to fit a 1/10 scale truck??

Yep,,, i tried i few different scales of the engine block before printing the 1:1 version-
i found that if reduce the printing layer height to 0.2mm or 0.15mm and set set the default layer width to 0.3 or 0.4 you get a good print- i normal print with a -layer height of 0.3mm and default layer width of 0.5mm- using Slicer Software-
The small parts like the Valves/Cam-Shafts you might have problems with,,,, id pick the smallest part and scale it down 1/10 to see how it goes,,,if your just printing the main components and not worried about the internal workings you want have problem,,,

Hi Guys,, will be uploading my expansion pack for Eric motor this week sometime, just getting all the files ready ,, you can see a pic in the “makes” section that I just uploaded, it shows most of the parts but not all,,, hope you guy enjoy it,,,,

Oct 8, 2016 - Modified Oct 8, 2016

Valve Springs:

I made mine out of low density foam (I used foam from a camera travel case). Squeeze down a half inch thick piece of foam with a suitable diameter socket and run a sharp blade around the perimeter to cut. I used a sharpened piece of tubing to cut out a central hole for the valve stem. See photo under "Made" tab.

Currently in the process of assembling all the parts. What screws did you use for all the external parts not shown in the diagrams? (ex: motor mounts, compressor mounts, etc.)

Whats the best orientation to print the exhaust manifold?

Comments deleted.

For some reason- all my prints are printing at different scales. My block is bigger than the other parts I printed (piston, timing cover- etc) I reprinted the head and the head was huge first time and printed again and it printed smaller. Using the makerbot software

What bearings and fasteners do I use if I scaled your models down to 80% so my printer could print?

Hi I'm new to the 3D printing world if I scale the model down how do I scale it to all fit together thank ps 10 out or 10

Is there a Parts list that is not in Excel?

Are there no bearings in the timing gears or is the diagram just wrong? Struggling to make them work. I've replaced the listed washer with a 623z since it seems to fit perfectly, but is that how you did it?

Yes, bearings in the timing gears

You have the valves backwards. Your exhaust valve is larger than your intake valve, intake valve should be the large one. All the valve seats seem to be switched in the head. Still an amazing model and I'm having a ton of fun printing it, just threw me for a loop when I realized my printed exhaust valves were larger.

Yeah, you're the second guy to notice that. The planes got mixed up when I was modeling the head. I intend to fix it one of these days.

Comments deleted.

At this moment all models are already printed and we are in the middle of assembling them together.

In this video you can see the biggest model of the motor....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LbCsRExPEiQ after 12 hours.

what is the 92029A418?


Incredible!! Keep the good work!

what scale is this?

1:2.86 (35%)

Very impressive work! I really like it!

Would it be possible for you to put the soliworkds files directly? With the assembly? It will be much easier to assemble and to rework if we want to change some stuff.

Thank you in advance and again : really great work! Congratulation

that was extremely cool !

Top job !!!

I want to print this lovely engine, but i dont know the difference between the two
Motor blocks.
Can anybody help me ?

May 31, 2016 - Modified May 31, 2016
steners - in reply to Shovel001

One does allready have support. the other doesn't (if your printer can't handle it without support, you have to chose the motor with support). You can also generate your support automatically by your slicer software, but its not necessary.

Is there an oil pump somewhere?

Is this something the flash forge creator pro capable for......?

could i install this into a go-cart ?

Which material did u use for the 5.4 and 6.7 rod?

all rods are 3mm stainless rod

ok, thanks (: i ask because in my local stores i cant find it in that measure its only 3.2mm so i will try harder (:

Hi Warlock I ended up using some welding rods for tig welding. They are called brazing rods and they are exactly 3mm

My printbed is too small to print this, can all the parts be scaled down a bit or cant i print it?

you can scale it, but you would have to find bearings and rods that fit

Apr 16, 2016 - Modified Apr 16, 2016

Hi Eric Great model
I bought all the nuts and bolts and while assembling the crankshaft I found out that I needed a 45mm m3 bolt. I bought one of them which is what the parts list requested but you need two one for the crankshaft and one for the timing cover

Hi Eric - great model, just uploading my pics of one at 0.4 scale its tiny. I have ordered my bearings for the bigger version and was wondering what infill setting in % you used. I am guessing its all about the end weight of the cranks and flywheel.

most things are 20% infill. i used higher infill for smaller parts.

@Ericthepoolboy: Is there a direct way to contact you? I wrote you an email/private msg and got no answer.

I 'm still not sure what 3 volt electric drive motor I should buy, and where should I buy it? Can someone steer me in the right direction?
This is a great project, and thanks for sharing it with us. So far I have the valve cover, head, and I'm printing the block as I'm writing this.

Look under my other things. There is a modified housing that uses a 12v geared motor from amazon. The engine really needs more power than the 3v could offer. Especially if you ad the transmission and transfer case.

I'am building the motor since today and I was wondering does the van need to be glued on the fan clutch? Because mine fan is very loose on the clutch.

It does need to be glued

What kind of magnets did you use to hold the Oil pan and the motor body? because it is hard to find or where did you buy it :/

will the bolts and stuff be too small if i print it at 100% scale instead of your 35%

Great job! I'am going to print this on my internship. Seems like this is the hardest print so far on my internship!

What are the "M3 Hex Bolts" sized at? In the parts list, that's all it's labeled as (qty 8).


What ended up working? I'm ordering everything now for mine.

M3 Hex Bolts for engine mounts?
I wondered about that one also but having all parts printed I could measure what is needed.
The hole will be roughly 7mm. (The hole in the block + the mount thickness.)
So with some 6mm M3 bolts or slightly shorter you will be fine.


We would like to use it with an Augmented Reality system, please can you give us a full model? We will post our print with AR result in made section.



Hi this is one cool model!! What size printer bed is needed to print all the parts for it? Cheers any help would be appreciated greatly... Matt =)

Mar 21, 2016 - Modified Mar 21, 2016
michaelosully - in reply to Turboboy1975

I own a Solidoodle 3 which has a 8"x8"x8" build volume and it was just big enough

Wow a model of my favorite engine! Where's the donation link.

I just ordered what I believe to be all the hardware. In doing this most of the hardware is in bulk, if anyone is interested in purchasing a nut and bolt kit let me know. If interested I will be willing to tailor the kit with the bearings and rods.

How much for a full hardware kit?

ok pardon me , gave this a bit more attention and its all there!

amazing job mate!!
can anyone please tell me where the " crankshaft " stil file could be found?
have downloaded this and cannot locate this file..

thanks alot.

Feb 19, 2016 - Modified Feb 19, 2016

Hello there ericthepoolboy,

first of all, I would like to say "thank you" for your amazing work on this "series". I'am currently printing this engine and would like to donate it later to some local school for education purposes.

Than, I would like to ask if you managed to find some proper, strong enough electric motor to turn the full build engine which doesn't stall and has enough power. I was thinking about some brushless motor (gimbal motor?) with ESC, but I'am not so sure if that is a good idea. Your advice would be much appreciated.

You can look at my other things. I have a compressor housing that holds a larger geared 12v motor. It's a lot stronger than the original one i used.

do you have a list or file for all the hardware needed to build. i am still printing may parts and started going threw the pdf's looking for all the hardware i will need so i can go to Mcmaster car and order what i need, just afraid im going to miss something. if you do i would be intrested in the list for motor trans. rearend .....

there is a parts list with the files

and im at 1 kg of plastic in pieces right now and still got 22 more pieces

will it work if i print the block at 100% scale

First of all: great job! Truly awesome!
We are trying to print this with an SLS-printer (Nylon).
I was wondering if you could upload a cad model of the valve springs, or tell us which ones to use, so we can buy them.
Thanks in advance!

The springs are homemade from steel wire. I describe how I made them in the instructions. Another thingiverse user made his from 1.75mm PLA by designing and printing a mandrel, wrapping the filament around it, and submerging it in hot water.

Thanks for the reply! Our printer should be able to print springs like that, so that's why I asked for an STL.
After doing some digital measurements, it seems that springs for 1/10 scale RC touring cars should also fit, but of course it would be cooler to print them!

can i print this in 50%? Or is this too small

you may be able to do so but finding the bearings and hardware bay be a problem.

my shop teacher wants me to print this. this is a huge job

yo utilicé un motor nema17 controlado por un arduino y va de maravilla

That is a beautiful Machine.

do you recommend a motor to put in the compressor because I would like to do that but I don't know what motor to use

Look at my other things. The motors are listed and link to amazon are provided.

Comments deleted.
Dec 31, 2015 - Modified Dec 31, 2015

want to make it but just 15mm too big for my printer 150mmx150mmx150mm is it possible to split big parts like engine block, the covers etc in half then glue togethier or more scaled down version

Dec 27, 2015 - Modified Dec 28, 2015

Valves ease made
The Valves (and the spring retainers) I made with metal shims and a brass rods 2.9mm (common in the shops). On the left side on the picture the exhaust, on the right the intake valve, in the center the standoff for centering and aligning the shims and stem.
8 pieces shim inner 3.2mm, outer diameter 13mm exhaust and intake valves
4 pieces inner 6.4mm, outer diameter 16mm for intake valves (all common in shops)
Cut 6cm long full-brass pieces as valve stem and make to one side a threat M3, approx. 4mm long.
Take a piece of hardwood as building jig approx 15/20mm thickness.
Make a bushing, the diameter is corresponding with inner hole dim. of the 16mm shim.
Into this bushing (ca. 15mm long for a good alignment in the wood) cut in the center an internal threat M3.
Drill a hole into the hardwood and put this bushing with a little got over, to fit the 16mm shim in center hole.
Now you can built the valves by gluing with epoxy, or soldering
screw in the valve brass, put the 16mm shim over the bushing, glue/solder the smaller shim into place and fill with glue/solder for a fluiding-transition to the stem. Build also the smaller valves with the jig, but first make flush the bushing with the surface of the jig.

Thanks for sharing this. By the way, do you lubricate the moving parts with mineral oil?

This is the most beautiful thing I've seen in awhile. Props to you

I know you're busy, but a model of any other popular engines would be great. Thanks for this. I'm also working on some mods and add ons for this model. Post when I complete.

Realizado motor_3D de Toyota. Magnifico trabajo.

I'm slowly finishing up. For attaching the exhaust manifold I used magnets on both sides.

Is that what you did for the intake manifold? or did you secure it with M4 hardware?

Looks like the rest of the intake manifold uses m3 hardware

I used 4mm x 2mm disc magnets for both intake manifold and exhaust. Some people have used screws to secure them but i like to be able to take everything apart to be able to look inside the ports and what not.

Excellent thanks. And for the Rear Main file, did you just glue that on?

I have printed the engine including the gearboxes, but at 130% scale using my 4 year old Ultimaker.
So I could use 4 mm silversteel for most axisses and 13 mm bearings.
Some of the larger parts I splitted into two parts using Netfabb basic and glued the parts together

Sofar I cannot find the exhaust piping as on your overview picture .

I will upload some pictures soon

Please provide me with the exhaust piping stl-files

Wim de Groot
The Netherlands

The exhaust piping should be named "header"

wanted to ask what scale the engine is?

This looks awesome! Too bad it wasn't a Volvo B230 engine. ;P Nicely done!

A red block is on the short list of things to do next.

Nov 16, 2015 - Modified Nov 16, 2015
Ceravyn - in reply to ericthepoolboy

You inspired me to try :)

Still a lil bit tweaking before it's ready for printing since I'm not that experienced with Solidworks yet and all the measurements were taken with non-digital caliper so some of them are bit off, for example I know I screwed up things like the camshaft lobe angles, which needs to be redone when I figure out how to get more reliable measurements hehe :p

And as for now, I cannot model the block itself seeing taking dimensions while it's attached to my car would be kinda difficult.

Volvo Redblock Cylinder Head
by Ceravyn

I really liked their design, but for my drawing material resources is too great for me to print, wanted perdir of me could not pass the editable drawing or only me through drawing on a smaller scale, maybe 1/3 scale current.Sincerely I liked very much of its design and want imprimilo but I can not at the current size.

Best regards


Sep 20, 2015 - Modified Sep 20, 2015

What type/dimension of spring did you use for the exhaust/intake valves?

I am having a real issue here and can't figure out why. The Cam Gear 30t (Crankshaft Assembly) should mesh with the Gears Helical 30x10r in the Timing Cover Assembly but they don't even touch. The Head Assembly is sitting nice and flush on the engine block so I am at a loss as to why these two gears aren't even close to each other. Has anyone else seen this OR were some parts changed in the last 2 months that would affect these gears?

No parts have changed, are your gears printing at the proper size? The two 30 tooth gears should be about 41.5mm in diameter.
Does the 30t gear in the timing cover mesh nicely with the smaller gear below it?

I just measured the cam gear and it is about 41.5mm diameter. The 30t gear in the timing cover meshes perfectly with the gear below it. I'm looking closer and I may be able to get another mm from the slightly raised magnets but they still won't touch. I think I found the problem. On the cam shaft, the bearings are sitting in indentations. I believe they may be sitting slightly high due to possible over extrusion . If I shave some plastic out it will sit lower and should then mesh with the gears. I will post here if that works.

I just measured the cam gear and it is about 41.5mm diameter. The 30t gear in the timing cover meshes perfectly with the gear below it. I'm looking closer and I may be able to get another mm from the slightly raised magnets but they still won't touch. I think I found the problem. On the cam shaft, the bearings are sitting in indentations. I believe they may be sitting slightly high due to possible over extrusion . If I shave some plastic out it will sit lower and should then mesh with the gears. I will post here if that works.

What type of motor did u use, and wat did u use to join all the parts together?

What are the dimensions of the engine so I know it will fit on my print bed

Biggest part is probably the block/head and oil pan - around 170x100mm or very close to this dimensions. I printed it on 200x200mm glass - 5mm brim and there was little to none space left on longer side. I can do exact measurements for you, but hey, you can open the file in Repetier (or your favourite software) and look for the exact dimensions yourself. Each of the "boxes" on the bottom represents real 10mm.

Sep 8, 2015 - Modified Sep 8, 2015

I'm close to finishing my build and I'm noticing that the connecting rod cap screws are clipping the engine block on a rotation. Does yours do this? I even dropped down to a m3-8mm flat head screw and even that rubs a bit causing it some stiction at that point in the rotation. Maybe you could release a different engine block model with that part trimmed down?

When modeling everything, the connecting rod cap screws do come close to the engine block walls, but they do not touch. Differences in printing tolerances are most likely to be the problem as some people have had this problem while others have not. I experienced this with my first model but modified the connecting rod caps to allow for more clearance.

Some things that you might try.

If the 623zz bearing fits loosely in the connecting rod, try sanding the mating surface on the connecting rod cap.
If the bearing is tight, you can still sand the mating surface and re clearance the hole.

You can also drill a slight counter bore for the SHCS to recess it into the cap.

Your SHCS might also be too big, the head on mine measure 5.4mm in diameter and are 3mm tall.

You can also try metric hex head screws if you can find them.

consulta cual de los dos block se imprimen???

How do you attach the compressor to the compressor mount? It looks like the compressor bracket holes are 3mm but the holes in the mount are 5mm.

Also, what part attaches the motor shaft to the pulley? Is there a spacer or something? i'm using the 12V motor.

Insert a nut into the hole. Or insert the head of a SHCS to make it a stud.

Awesome work Eric! I'm coming down the home stretch here with the build and I'm stuck on 2 things. The first are the timing belts. I believe you said you used black rubber bands? Would you happen to know the sizes? I'm assuming the width is 1/8"?
The second thing I can't figure out is the power. How exactly is everything hooked together? Can you upload some pics showing the battery and switch connections?
Thanks again! When this is done it's off to build the transmission.

Yes, I just used 1/8" rubber bands. dont know what size since i just had a bag of misc rubber bands. Look at the remixes, another user made belts for this engine. As for the electrical parts, the compressor housing that is with this thing houses two AAA batteries and a switch. If you want more torque to power the motor, transmission and transfer case then go with the 12v motor option. you can find the compressor housing under my things. You will have to wire that up on your own though. I just have a 12v barrel jack that i plug an adapter into.

Hi, do you have some info about the belts? I have some flexible material , maybe I could print them also GREAT WORK by the way...

Look at the remixes of this thing. Another user made some that can be printed.

This may be a dumb question, but did you paint this or print everything in that specific color filament? If it was filament, what colors were used besides the obvious red, white, and black?

I painted some parts for the engine just because i had a lot of extra weird colored filament that i wanted to get rid of.

Things that were painted. Head, timing cover, exhaust header, intake, and valve cover.

I like cars, so I like that

There are two 22RE block files. One has "support". What's the difference between the two files?
I had a Celica with a 22R so I'm really happy to find someone that modeled this engine!

The one with supports will print support material under the bearing journals.

so i tried sourcing the belt file from europe but i can't seem to find the recommended 155mxl012 anywhere from aliexpress...
any recommendations?

i can anyone tell me where the exhurst files are as i dont seem to have it in the zip file thanks

The exhaust is called header and there is only one. There are foir intake files, upper, lower, throttle and throttle lever or something like that.

It appears that the STL for the throttle body is not quite flat by a fraction of a degree. It makes the slicing engine go a little wonky. Is there a way to regen the STL with the part flat? Thanks.

hi is the gearbox avalible for download yet thanks

Just search for 22re to find the transmission and 4WD transfer case and stands.

So, I'm most of the way through the entire build now, but I wanted to comment and say that for whatever reason, the nut retainer pockets on the cam shafts seem undersized by a lot. The cam gear nuts went right in with no problems (M3 jam nuts) but I had to resort to M2.5 nuts (M2.5 jam nuts would have been better, but I don't have any) and manually widening the pocket. Is this supposed to accept M2.5 jam nuts or did they just get scaled oddly? Other than that, they fit on the shaft nicely and within the head.

Also, I found that the SHCS for attaching the flywheel to the crank shaft assembly used longer than a 25mm screw. It's more like 30mm. I had to take a 35mm and cut it down.


  • Bryce

Yes, the slots for the cam shaft a tight. I don't know why they print like that, they are oversized slightly but they are still too small. I just used a 1/16" end mill in my dremel and enlarged it.

Comments deleted.


Is is possible to get a slightly shaved down version of the modified stand for transmission? I have a Flashforge Creator with a limitation of 225mm x 145mm and it looks like it's overhanging my build space by maybe a few millimeters. I've printed nearly every part but am stuck on this one. Providing the Solidworks file would allow me to modify it, or I might just try importing the STL to see what I can do myself.

It'd be great if you could just decrease the width to maybe 140mm or so. Then length of the stand is fine. Thanks.

I guess another alternative would be a two part design, but the size is so close I don't see any reason to bother.

So far prints have come out well and test fits look good. I appreciate you posting this - I'm building two models for my father and father in law who are both big Toyota guys. Thanks again.

  • Bryce
Jun 25, 2015 - Modified Jun 25, 2015
Bryscus - in reply to Bryscus

So, I imported the STL for the stand into OpenSCAD and just cut off the extremities. It isn't quite a pretty as yours, but should be printable on any printer with a 145mm width now. I sliced it down to 144mm wide. Maybe you could still create a prettier one though... :) I added it as a remix of your wonderful engine.

  • Bryce

I just uploaded a new thing with all the stands for the complete model. You should be able to print them now.

Great! Thanks!

Jun 11, 2015 - Modified Jun 11, 2015

What did you use to drive the inlet and exhaust valves? Just an M3 SHCS?

& also it was asked before, but is the fan pressure fit to the clutch or glued together

Yes for the valves and yes for the gluing of the clutch to the fan.

I am new to 3d printing as I just got a MAkerMex MM1 last week and I was wondering if the valve cover is printable without supports. In Slic3r it seems to only print supports below where the oil filler cap goes. It looks like that the part has a lot of space to bridge.

It all depends on your machine. If you can bridge it and make it look good, go for it. If not, you will need full support. If you turn off bridging in Slic3r and reslice it you should see support everywhere.

Jun 7, 2015 - Modified Jun 7, 2015

Hi. Maybe anyone have small model?

This is a small model..

And if we reduce the model? you need to do?

Read the instructions.


Thank you for the great design and making all the files available. I just started printing it today. Have you ever considered adding thread to the oil cap and valve cover? It would be great to screw it on just like the real thing.

On my model, the oil cap has a SHCS in it and there is a nut in the valve cover. It spins on, just not the way a real oil cap does. I'm not a fan of printed threads.

what is the file name for the m3 6mm SHCS for the head ported

Comments deleted.

it is a lot off work but with PLA printspeed 60 mm/s Travelspeed 100mm/s Fill density 20% Fill pattern Hexagon layer height 0,20mm first layer height 0,20mm number off shells 2 Temp 200 heated bed 60 en coolingfans on auto it can be done:)
pictures will be coming this week Total printing hours 60
Advise print the big ones first
Build on a flashforge dreamer

Any chance i can get my hands on your solidworks files?

Eric - I hate to keep nickel & diming you, but what size hardware do you use to hold the timing cover to the block? I keep running out of parts! I must have spent a fortune on shipping from Bolt Depot... ;-)

Almost everything is m3 hardware. I need to go through and update the parts list for the engine as it's a little disorganized. I used long SHCS that i cut the head off of and epoxied them into the block to make a stud. I'll update the parts list in a day or so. Working on the transfer case right now.

Eric - what's the purpose of the rear main cover? How does it attach to the block? I'm assuming it gets installed after the crank and before the flywheel, correct?

It's glued to the back of the block. You can install it at anytime but it's best to glue it once the crank is installed to prevent any interference issues with the output on the crank. The purpose is mostly cosmetic but it does have holes for the magnets that hold on the oil pan.

Thanks, man! Once again, very helpful!

Can i print this without support? Please reply I really want print this.

You need support for some pieces. Almost all slicing software can print with support so it shouldn't be a problem

Question. What size bolts did you used to bolt the Main Caps to the Block itself. Looks bigger than M3 I assume M4. I will figure it out once i get there. On the drawing the #3 points to the bolt but on the BOM there is different description. Thank you.

Main cap bolts are m4 hex head

Hey Eric,

Question about the helical gears - are the little bearings supposed to fit into the center of them? Mine don't. Otherwise, what's keeping them attached to the timing cover? Am I misunderstanding something?


One bearing goes in each gear. They are head in with a m3 SHCS and then sandwiched between the block and the timing cover


What are you guys using for the belts? I tried rubber bands, but there is enough friction in my system that it does not rotate smoothly :(

Any suggestions?

Can this be printed on a printrbot simple metal?

I've now printed a lot of this and want to start putting it together, it's amazing.....

Where did you source your m3 smooth rod from?



Hi, can You tell me how much in % You infill the models? Next week I want to try this amazing project. Thank's

Comments deleted.
Mar 13, 2015 - Modified Mar 13, 2015

I have been looking closely at the engine here and it seems that the bores for the exhaust and intake valves are reversed. Normally the intake valve is larger than the exhaust valve (It is for this particular engine: http://www.lcengineering.com/LCTechPages/techpages/TechNote49.htm) but it seems to be flipped on the model of the head in this case from what I can tell, meaning the exhaust valve is the larger of the two. A small detail, but just though I would let you know. Thanks!

Yeah, that was brought to my attention awhile ago, I was waiting for someone else to notice it. Somehow the sketch planes got switched while I was modeling it and I just never noticed. Fixing the ports is on the list of things to do.

I thought something was amiss with the valves... It will be fun to see if anyone notices that. Once the valves are in the head, it's difficult to see the difference in size.

Great work overall! This has been a more challenging project than I thought it would be but very fun!

I remember having to glue mine together.

Just out of curiosity, is the fan supposed to press fit onto the fan clutch, or is it supposed to be glued on? My fan ID printed at 36.2mm and the clutch OD printed at 35.33mm, though they were different materials, fan Taulman 618 and clutch Microcenter ABS.

I have the same problemm. Did you find the answer? I was also thinking about glueing it on the clutch.

Did you get an answer on this?

Comments deleted.

Can you start the engine with Diesel? (laughter)
Just kidding ... It's a great Designer. Congratulations.

I've printer everything but the block, head, stand and oil pan. Yes, the big stuff.

Having trouble with the print shifting on they Y axis. the oil pan and stand did this both at different height and shift amount.

Any ideas. Print speed 60, Travel speed 90, 20% fill

I had an axis shift issue and it turned out the problem was a broken control wire. If the ribbon cable flexed just right one wire would lose connectivity causing a shift. Something else to investigate :)

Are you printing in PLA? Do you have a fan blowing on your part? Youre probably experiencing curling and your print head is hitting it and cause your stepper to skip. But also check your belts, make sure the pulleys are tight on the steppers, and slow the print speed down on perimeters. A fan blowing on your part with help dramatically. If youre printing in PLA.

I've had the same issue in the past. The problem is most likely that your belt is slipping over the gear teeth. Check your acceleration settings, tighten the belt, and try slowing down if the problem persists.

Comments deleted.

What printer did you print this on? I have an Ultimaker2 and using Cura I just can't get it to print supports :/ Any ideas?



They were printed on a RepRap prusa. I used silc3r for the parts that didn't need support and Cura for the parts that did. Maybe try and update Cura?

Hey, I'm currently printing the block for this. It got me thinking.. I really want to re-create a working Chevy or Ford V8 engine. Now, I'm completly new to the whole 3d printing thing and have no idea where to start. I'm really good with computers and have a decent amount of paicents. Where would you recommend I start at? Also this working engine of yours is kick ass!

Learn CAD. Start designing little things and slowly do more complex items. It will take a while though. People go to school for years to do solid modeling and they still can't do it all.

  1. patience
  2. Learn 3D CAD
  3. ??
  4. Profit
Feb 23, 2015 - Modified Feb 23, 2015

My wife is a mechanic and she DEMANDS I print this for her when I buy my Dremel 3D Idea builder in a month. lol

Wow..l great work !

Feb 22, 2015 - Modified Feb 22, 2015

I can't found the connecting rod cap stl, is it missing?

Issue with supports using these files: Makerware is using the ABS extruder instead of the correct dissolvable extruder making it almost impossible to preserve the ABS pieces underneat the supports.. Could this be because it was originally sliced using Cura?

Left Extruder: Makerbot Dissolvable
Right Extruder: ABS
Support: On
Raft: On

Hey, is it just me or the holes too big on the cylinder head to mount the inlet manifold? I also notice in the pics there are no screws, so presume glue was used? Did anyone use screws?

I used some m4 screws in each corner (really short ones, m4x6 or shorter)
. Worked fine for me. I just had to drill the hole to 4mm on the manifoild

I screwed mine on ,some holes i drilled and tapped .the extra holes along the top are there for the carbed intake on the earlier models

I can screw everything else together fine - but on the head, the holes for M3 screws are too big, they just slide out! Not sure what I can do when the holes are already too big, much easier if they're too small. :(.

I did go a little deeper and used a slightly longer screw

Ok thanks, that's a good idea :).

The holes on the Intake, header, and head are larger to accommodate 4x2mm disc magnets. I used 8 for the header, 4 for each mating face. And I used 14 for the intake, 7 on each face. This allows you to easily remove both and see inside the ports if you printed the ported version. The magnets we epoxied into both faces at the same time to produce an even mating surface for the magnets, separating them with painters tape,

Fantastic job, one day (and night) and my motor is completed... Thank you very much for your mega great job!
Next time: the gear box for completed the engine group? lol (but really, why not?)

+1 for the gearbox

Hello. I ask a question, the Head_assem_for_cambolts-_Shee.pdf is cut .. Can you upload it again? Thank You!

Agreed, some of the text is cut off around the edges and it looks like some text is missing. But I want to say that this is an awesome model and can't wait to get it assembled. Very nice work!

Comments deleted.
Feb 9, 2015 - Modified Feb 9, 2015

how many kg's of filament did it take and did you print abs or pla also whats your print bed size

Maybe a 1kg roll? My print area is 200x200x100mm, All PLA

you think i could print it with a 180x180x175mm bed i doubt the 20mm less makes that much of a difference

The head and the valve cover just barely fit on my print bed. I had to turn them diagonally to get them to work.

how did you print the valve cover? if i try to print it upside down the inlet for the oil is protruding. and if i try to print it the right way up, there is some serious overhang! appreciate your reply thanks!

you need to print it with support if your machine cant bridge that gap

Hello. Is there any pack with all necessary screws and nuts for sale ?

Don't have a pack for sale. Boltdepot.com sells individual fasteners if youre looking to buy just a few.

Hi all, i have an problem... I thing part "Crank gear" is inversed cause is in the wrong position...
I can reverse this part but i want to be sure it a wrong part (cause i can make mistake) Sorry for my poor english,
Great congralutaion for this big job.
Other: when i have make part "connecting rod cap" it was necessary to scale at 0,35 cause it very big....
Thany you to help me

Yes, the connecting rod was not scaled properly. you can either redownload it or scale to 35%. As for the crank gear it should be right. You should have the crank gear, then a revered 16t gear, then a 16t gear, then a revered 30t gear, and then finally the cam gear.

OK, i know where is my problem, i have reverse two part similary: there is two different gears helical.

Eric; Can you please mesure the thickness of the washers and the thickness of your 608zz & 623zz bearings? I got the crank assamblet, but when i test fit it to the block it just won't fit at all. I think its because of either the thickness of the washers (mine are 1mm thick) or wrong thickness of my 623zz bearings (4mm). That gives me a total spacing of 14mm between each crank counter weight. I also got 10mm of thickness, where the main bearings sit.

And just an thought; if the 3v dc motor struggles. Why not change the motor to a stronger one and the compressor design ? :) For the valve springs. If you got PETG or ABS, you can make them out of plastic, instead of using welding wire or what ever you used :) I tested one, with PETG 1.75 filament. Works fine :)

I wanted everything to fit in the compressor so I was limited to only 2 batteries. Im working on putting a larger stronger motor but it will require and external battery park. As for the springs, I thought about using filament but I still print in 3mm. I just got a couple rolls of 1.75 so I might try and make a spring. Probably print a mandrel out of ABS and wrap some warmed up PLA around it.

I just found a spring that seems to work .The notebook with a plastic spiral from wmart called the Neon nights collection $1.97 and one book is plenty .I think there is yellow and black .I took 5 winding's and bent the ends level and that gives it just enough to hold the valves shut. The dia.is perfect and plenty soft . Hope this may help

Did you ever find .5mm thickness washers? I can also modify the cad file for a thinner crank piece to work for you?

Yeah, i ordered some 0,5mm washers, thanks Eric! :) Printing the last 4 parts. And i need to re-print the timing cover. Im printing the compressor right now. It might be a stupid question since the part is not printed. But based on the stl, how did you connect the batteries to the +- and the switch ? The "connectors" on the 3v dc motor is like super small!! :) Or is there small enough female wiring connectors Maby ?

ahh, are your washers metric? or was it something you just had laying around? :) I looked on ebay, and most of the sellers had washer thickness for m3 washers = 0,5mm. Since mine are 1mm i tried removing one of them, just to test the fitment, and yes it seems fine. I don't have the main caps printed yet so i can't lock it in place, but it seems fine when looking at it. So i'm going to get some 0,5mm washers. Or if you have a link to the one you use or something simular that would help, if they are not 0,5mm they are probably not metric and might be a horsehair thinner.

Comments deleted.

Yeah, their metric. 3mm stainless washers from boltdepot.com. I'm not sure on the thickness since the website doesn't list it for them but I will measure them when I get home.

I'm not by my printed model but when looking at the CAD assemblies I get a little over 10mm between the main journals and a little under 13mm between the rod journals. I'll have to check the washers when I get home but the bearings should be standard size. If you do have thicker washers then it could be possible to take out the middle 623zz bearing from each rod journal and just replace them with the right amount of washer to space it the proper distance.

Hey guys after your help, figured I'd start by printing the piston and conrod - anyway, printed both but either the piston is too small, or the conrod is too big? Both printing as they came in the STL's, which one is wrong?

Here's an image: http://i.imgur.com/U0vfoFV.jpg

Looks fine to me. You putting the right end into the piston?

It's been a long day, and I feel like a complete idiot. LOL, no I wasn't all sorted :).


Eric; How thick are the m3 jam nuts you have used? Will a 1.8mm thick m3 nut fit on the locations which needs jam nuts.

In advance, thanks.

Yes, my jam nuts were 1.8mm high. I had to file some of the slots to open them up or heat up the nut and insert it that way.

Feb 5, 2015 - Modified Feb 5, 2015

Having the time of my life.all i have left is the few parts i need to do in silver and just waiting on silver filament

Cam assambly.pdf doesn't show the whole sheet :)

This will blow away automotive classes. I would love to be able to take this to the classroom. Amazing.

One more thing. I just printed out the fly wheel and is it me or is this not to scale? The fly wheel is extremely large!

It should be about 4" in diameter and the bolt pattern should match the rear of the crankshaft.

I'm sorry when I say it is not to scale I mean its not to scale from the REAL 22RE. How are you going to mount a tranny if the flywheel exceeds the size of the bell housing of the tranny case? The fly wheel is so big I don't even see how a starter would get mounted. So I guess my question is , was this planned or made bigger so younger hands can rotate the engine easily?

The flywheel is to scale. If you were to draw a circle that was concentric with the flywheel and coincident with one of the four bolt holes on the back of the block, that would give you a rough idea of how big the bell housing his. The starter mounts to the bell housing which has a protrusion sticking out on the passenger side.

gotcha. Thanks.. That is a pretty big flywheel!

Just finished the bottom half. I think you should consider adding more locations for magnets. Atleast 8 minimum on the bottom if using such small magnets. I would go 10. I have not done the top end yet but gravity is helping out on top.

What magnets are you using? I stacked two magnets at each location on the oil pan so that any differences in the block and oil pan would be compensated for and also left a gap between the two. I also glued the magnets in the block last and installed the oil pan before the glue cured so that all the magnets were aligned. Does you oil pan just fall off or bump off easily?

Now, I remember. i double stacked the magnets to clear the main bearing cap bolts. They stick out too far and hit the oil pan. I'll enlarge the holes in the block and oil pan to use 4mm x 2mm disk magnets. That way all the magnets will be the same for the block.

Thanks for all the feedback.

that makes sense. I didn't want the gap so I pulled the old dremel out and I notched out some material for the bolts. I wasn't aware I had to double up on the magnets so I just added a few more. I guess since there is a slight gap to the magnets, that would explain why mine don't hold as well.

I have rebuilt 100's maybe over 1000 of the 20R and 22Re .I even raced this engine in what was called Pro 4 series on 1/2 mi. asphalt oval Now retired . This is an Outstanding model and I like what you did for timing gear setup (not for racing :) _ ) but for being practical .I just finished the block and now onto the main caps ,i will do all the black parts first.The block came out perfect .Your work is greatly appreciated.

Thank You ever so much  , ALM 

just printed the timing gears for the valve train. Lots of friction there. Also same the piston assembly thru the piston chambers. Lots of sanding there. But the valve train is the hardest. If the gears are not perfectly aligned and the holes are slightly off center, lots of friction.

The clearance between the pistons and cylinder wall was set to be pretty tight. The idea was that you could sand the wall and the piston so that it would be smooth with no layers showing so that there would be less friction or binding. You can always scale down the pistons slightly if there is still too mush material to be removed. As for the timing gears, I havent experienced much friction at all. I updated the assembly drawing to show that there are 2 jam nuts behind the bearing to help keep the gears from moving side to side. Also, I hit every gear tooth with a tiny flat file to help smooth things out. But you can also scale the gears down too if you want.

Let me know if you find any other issues.

No need to scale anything down. Just wanted to let people know what to expect. I've got the bottom end done. I noticed that the cap screw heads for the conn rod ends are rubbing against the block. So I had to pull the old dremel out and take some material off the block where the cap rubs. I also had to take sand down and file the timing gears to ensure smoothness. Same thing with the piston and walls. Sanded those down too to open up the tolerance. The tolerances are pretty tight which I like, but my makerbot 2x isn't producing products that are as tight on tolerance. Now that the bottom half is done, I have to sell well done! I love it. I'm printing the ported head now. Look forward to it!

Friction was the biggest issue when designing this. I did encounter the connecting rod screws hitting the block and removed some material from the block and the connecting rods, but I guess not enough. How much material did you have to remove?

I think the biggest problem is the SHCS. Its just too big. I think if we used hex bolts instead it would be better. Also if I were forced to use SHCS maybe it should be counter sinked? Not sure if theres enough material. I think changing to hex screws would be best. As for material I had to remove, maybe about 1-2mm on the specific areas where it rubs. But I think its rubbing only because the cap screw heads are long. It all boils down to tolerance by the bolt manufacturers. I wouldn't change your design just yet until someone tries the hex bolts. For the pistons tho, theres no point in leaving the tolerance so tight. I would reduce the diameter by 0.5mm . If someone scaled it down, it would introduce other problems.

I had m3 hex head bolts in there at first. They were just too big and looked off and I couldn't find any hex bolts smaller than m3. If you know of a source let me know. I'll reduce the piston and do a test fit and see.

Hi, I want to know what printer you used . which has dimensions ? I have a Prussian i3 20cm x 16cm x 20xm . I can print to that printer ? Thank you

my printer was 195x190x100. You ideally want your x and y to be at least 200m and you r z to be 100mm

The intake and exhaust mani's weren't on there 2 days ago, they look great!

is there any camshaft caps to hold it down
thanks fstaiger

There is now. So many parts to keep track of...

When are you making the Gearbox Eric ? :) I sent you a PM

I was going to start the transmission soon. Just have to order some more PLA and machine a finer nozzle for my hotend to be able to print the gears. How do you check/respond to a PM on this site?

Really i have no clue, haha! But it was no problem sending a PM. Can you shoot me an email at [email protected] , and i reply you by mail instead, and you don't have to share your email in the public :) I can confirm that GT2 belts work really well for the tooth diameter. you just have to use a knife and split the gt2 belt in half.

I like your Model and your beautiful SpacePilot Pro <3 :D

eric, the .125 spacer is scaled wrong, well atleast on the makerbot. just an fyi

+1 for a model 2jz, would be sick with stock turbos, but thats a seriously complicated model, a big single would b much easier!!

very mighty impressive model mate, well done!

The connecting rod end cap measures like 80mm wide in netfabb. This does not fit the connecting rod. Can you check if the correct scale was used for export on the end cap?

Guess that one never got scaled before uploading. Try it again. If you find any that are too big just scale them to 35% and let me know.

Thanks for the quick reply. Need 4 full size end caps in PLA? :)

Jan 27, 2015 - Modified Jan 27, 2015

Hollyyy molllyyy how cool is THAT !... now i know what i have to doo :D

what layer height / speed do you use for the parts ? 36h for the block sounds like 0.1mm layer height :-)

.2mm layer height, 40% infill, and a fairly slow speed. I think 40mm perimeter and 80mm infill

Very impressive work!

very nice print! i have a qeustion did you print the engine block with support material or do you think it is possible to print with out?
cant wait to start printing!

The block was modeled so that no support would be required except for the main cap face. There's one model that has support built in and one that doesn't. Even if you enable support for the print it would be minimal. There is an excel file that has all the parts listed and the recommended support options.

Thank you!! i will upload a photo when i am done!

Nice model..for 3D Printing.
I have a question that, did all these parts are printed by FDM process only?

Yes, FDM only

Very nice print, thank you for sharing, I am thinking of printing it and paining the parts, also aging some them to look like a real motor.
Did this motor have electronic ignition? A working distributer would be a fun addition with light up spark plugs.

It does have have a distributor. A working one is on the list of things to do but i will probably make just a basic one first. Along with a long list of other things.

Very cool model! I can't wait to print one myself.

Will you update the head to add holes for the new header?

Yes, I work on porting the head after I finish the intake manifolds and instructions. I left the head unported so that I could have the valve guides as long as possible so we'll have to see how well the valves work with a shorter guide.

Sounds good, thanks!

Would you be able to make an EJ motor from a subaru?

I would love to print an EJ and have that on my desk. +1 to this request :)

WoW... looks awesome!
I'm wondering, what's the total printing time?

Great Job

Over 3 days for all the parts, and only getting longer as i add more ports to it.



Op too 0.06 Layer Heaight!!!

Jan 26, 2015 - Modified Jan 26, 2015


Originaly i'm a car mechanic but this is awesome!!
I've printer the

5star radial engine from BADBRICK -
W16 Bugatti veyron Engine -
V18 Marine diesel -
Wankel engine -
Gas Turbine Jet Engine -



You're are awesome (check my Wat I ve Made)

I'll keep you posted!

DryBones Ultimaker HQ Holland

thanks for the hardwork. I actually own the 22RTE and this one is a very close representation of the turbo engine. Thanks for the hardwork. can't wait to see the transmission that goes with this.

Looking awesome, hope to print it soon at Felixusa with our printers

Would love to see a 2JZ GTE/GE.

2JZ!!! That woud be awesome ..... or SR20DET.. i owned that one!! (nissan silvia S14a)

Great project - Inspiring!
Thanks for sharing your hard work!

Printing now, awesome build! Can you tell us what you used for the belts? Not seeing anything in the parts list. Thanks again!

Black rubber bands. The Electric motor pulley and crankshaft pulley have teeth setup for a gates PowerGrip Timing Belt. But I haven't gotten around to adding the needed tensioner pulley to make it work. If you take you're time and build the model so thats there's as little fiction as possible, the runner bands will work just fine. The biggest cause of friction is from the valves springs. I have some ninjaflex on order that i was going to try and make a timing belt too but the gates timing belt on amazon is cheap enough.

What size black rubber bands? Do you have a link? I would think this would be much easier than a timing belt.

Uploaded a header I made last night. Updated parts list. Intake manifold should be done tonight or tomorrow

I am impressed , I have a Weber manifold for it that uses 40 DCOE side drafts

I have no way to scan it for you but could take some pictures if you wanted to add it to the motor

If you had a dimensional grid that you could take top views with , i could probably model it. I'm doing a manifold right now for the EFI, but it would be cool for people who wanted a 22R. It would be interchangable.

I just started one on a Zortrax printer and am printing head - looks good so far. An assembly drawing or the assembly file in SW would be great!

I'll try and get an assembly drawing for the head in a couple days. I thought most people would be printing the block first so i've been putting off doing more assembly instructions.

Looks awesome. Great job

Mindblowing! It looks as if it is almost in 1:1 real size? Would be possible to print a small version, say at 20 or 30% if it? Would it still work?

WoW! I wish I could model like that. I have been wanting to model a Harley sportster engine since I got my printer!

Forget the 4age, do a W-12. All kidding aside, nice work

Fantastic piece of engineering, ordering some gold and silver abs so i can have a go at printing
found some springs on Ebay if any good,

COMPRESSION SPRING - 0.8mm WIRE - 26mm (L) x 13mm (OD) - CS006

Losi 22: 12mm Rear Shock Spring 1.6 Rate (Grey/Pair) TLR5165

The Losi springs are for remote control car suspension and come in different strengths.

Keep up the good work!

I dont' know if I have to will to print this, but wow! This is amazing.

Jan 24, 2015 - Modified Jan 24, 2015

Very impressive! I've had many of these engines.... Could take those parts and do lost PLA casting and end up with a real working motor :) need to do a 4AGE next ;)

Using magnets to hold the covers on?
What did you model in?
Any plans to do the distributor, intake etc?

Jan 24, 2015 - Modified Jan 27, 2015

So...I wonder how many of these are printing right now...I know of at least one! Nice work Eric.

This is really nicely done and shows off 3D printing at it's best. May not ever print one, but I appreciate it nonetheless.

But the best thing you did was point us to Bolt Depot - I've been looking for a place like this forever!

Comments deleted.
Jan 24, 2015 - Modified Jan 24, 2015

Such a beautiful engine to start with. I may not print this one, but if you ever post up a 4age I probly wouldn't be able to resist lol.

Your work is appreciated, Eric.

  • Erick

You are crazy, i like that ;-)

I wish I could cast it in aluminum!

Great job, so magic! Very big job and so amazing.
Big big big congratulations.

That's some great work amazing

Great! Simply fantastic!

I mostly make model railroad details and vehicles now that Im retired/disabled. but have done tons of model building through my life. we had another guy on thingaverse late last year making great scale car designs also but he left and deleted his files for some reason. thats why I speak up early now when somebody like this comes along. the 3D printing world is short on this caliber of designers. (other than those making 6 figure corporate incomes lol). its not easy researching and getting measurements for things to draw 3D files of. much less so they work with 3D printers. I have a library of over 7,000 files and more than half may never be repaired enough to 3D print. and only about 10% were ready upon downloading from any 3D file repository. so yes people like Eric are our greatest assets building the 3D printing revolution.

well said!

Fantastic job. I am auto mechanic and I always have loved to make a play like that.
The colors chosen, adjusting cylinders to run smooth ... I've gone crazy. Great Job !!!

Now, for a gearbox 5 speed

Kind regards

The W56 5 speed is the next thing to tackle, that's why the flywheel and the back of the block were design to accept a bell housing and pressure plate. It just might take me 3 months to take one apart and model it.

Amazing! Great work. Printing this one right now. Can you make a matching intake and exhaust manifoil ? :-)

Intake and exhaust header are on the list of parts to model. Their just going to add a lot of weight to the head. If i get around to it, i'll try and model/post a header for this later today.

Very good dude :) Also, for belts, GT2 belts react very well to superglue and can be used as timing belt if the dim. are right, and tooth diameter. Did you try that? ;)

thats a great idea. earlier visible engine models had to use gears instead of timing chains too due to not having a good source to work like a timing chain to keep things in sync. even a small chain was too loose/weak.

My mistake. I must have been really tires ehen writing it. It should have been fan belt . From the 3v dc motor to the crank pulley :-)

Erikthepoolboy let me know if you are interested in 3d modelling an rb26dett driftspec engine. I re-build those irl and can give you pics piece for piece and mesurements etc. Its originally from Nissan Skyline r32/r33/r34 . In my opinion it has to be one of the coolest engines to 3d print. I just don't have the skills to model it like you have... :)

First, HOLY SHIZZLE!!! that turned out awesome. Second, ignore n2ri, he sounds like he didn't get enough hugs as a child.

where is the alternator, distributor, spark plugs etc? an AC compressor is not of use without all that. also smog air pump, fuel intake system/electrical system and vacuum connections. Revell models and the old Renwal models included all this plus wires so spark plugs (with bulbs in them) lit at proper timing in firing order. and starter was drive motor. Renwal also made a complete drive-line and chassis that functioned with 3 speed transmission for the V8 model. I owned them and built several.
this is almost like the Revell 4 cylinder version still available at hobby shops. very cool 1/4 scale is what most where. nice job indeed just needs a bit more to finish. the Renwal models closed down about 1970 and Revell took up some of their kits but not the largest due to cost exceeding $200. and 2,000 parts plus lots of tiny hardware. I would like to encourage you to continue final details of this type models for educational use and also use some clear parts for observing functions in a class room. tech schools need this also for boat engines etc. as do medical schools for their use like the old human and animal anatomy models of the 2 companys listed above most of which have been abandon years ago. I still own the Visible man and woman models of Renwal for referance, they stand about 15 inches high and Woman has baby parts to show pregnancy.

Jan 24, 2015 - Modified Jan 24, 2015
ericthepoolboy - in reply to n2ri

The AC compressor is there only because it houses the gear motor and a couple AAA batteries. The accessories are left off because I don't think they add very much to model, educationally or aesthetically. You can explain to someone how and alternator works better than showing them, while trying to explain how the insides of an engine work together is more difficult. There are still more things I want to add to this motor but most of them will just be solid pieces of printed plastic with no moving parts so they'll pretty much be just for looks. And yes, the 22RE uses a timing chain but being able to remove the head and see the valves and pistons was more important than being 100% accurate when creating this model.
I did however, plan on making a distributor that illuminated little LEDs in head at TDC, just like the old models engines that I wanted as a kid. One of the reasons I made this.

As for why I used bearings, because I wanted to. And I figured that if somebody is going to take the time to print this model they'll spend the $8 for all the bearings to have a nice smooth running machine. And the bearings actually give the crankshaft rigidity once its assembled and being able to clamp the main bearing caps over the main journals correct any "crookedness" in the crankshaft and allows it to rotate true and straight. Also, if I didn't use bearings, the slop required to eliminate friction on any bearing surface would be so great that it would be just like running a real engine with no bearings. There would be clicking and knocking of all kinds when rotating. Notice the sound in the Youtube video? You can only hear the electric motor and the pistons on the cylinder walls, the way it should. But yes, this can be made without bearings and I probably will upload a version at some point.

As for your comments, I welcome all constructive criticism. It's seems a though you can't do that now a days without getting somebody butt hurt. But you will never learn if you don't take the advice of others into consideration, especially those who know more than you.

And I agree with you completely, the market is literally flooded with 3D printers and anybody can buy one and start printing right away but the gap between being able to print something and being able to design something to be printed is the major short coming with 3D printer movement. There needs to be better resources for designing items at home for the average person with a 3D printer.

sounds like you really did lots of R&D thinking this through. yes earlier visible engine models also opted for timing gears for best operation. I built both the Renwal V8 and the Revell version which had a better mount for distributor so it didnt wobble off angled gears. as for bearings I smoothed all points of friction so fine that all I had to do is add a bit of mineral oil to the areas and the whole thing could be spun with fingers very easy. thats what must be done for display models like this. and when 3D printed in ABS (which is way better than the Styrene of the 1960s lol) you can acetone vapor parts smooth and shiny. I will PM you me email and we can communicate easier on these subjects. I have 50 years experience that can be tapped for bouncing ideas off of. the revell V8 1st version used a starter motor to turn everything from flywheel and a 'batter' box with wires passing through a switch to turn on motor and spark plug lights. looked like real ones and nobody could tell.
I agree easier design programs and creating good printable files is the next hurdle needing tackled, as the printers are getting near industrial quality now for home use.

Comments deleted.

Wow... Way to crap all over this great feat. Let us know when you make something as awesome... BTW there is no distributor on the 22re...

Jan 24, 2015 - Modified Jan 24, 2015
n2ri - in reply to neua

not at all. you must not have read in full. its called constructive criticism with some suggestions on other things to include.in future projects. I also stated it was very good and long overdue in instructional modeling.

people with this ability are very rare the last few decades and this type of art needs cultivated beyond mere praise in order to help it grow to max potential. most of us are artists with great talents. but like all artists we bore easy if not given ideas on either improvements or the next horizon. I know 1 other designer on thingaverse using the same software and doing amazing things through it. the full software alone costs more than some make in a year. we need to mentor talent like this when ever it comes along. or it will wither and others will miss out on the benefits of it. I offer any support I can offer developing future projects but my health and finances are too poor so my experiences, skills and things I have related to this art form is all.

BTW there must be some form of firing order like a distributor even with electronic ignition if an internal combustion engine has spark plugs or fuel injection or both. even Diesels do. its just different looking is all. the tube sticking out left side of engine near fan is where distributor goes according to this video so maybe you dont know as much as you think. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=euMPpSJ0BjQ

this proves my point why more details are needed to show people whats involved. the RE series just has adjustments made internally behind timing gear area. also it should have a timing chain from what I see online.

Jan 24, 2015 - Modified Jan 24, 2015
neua - in reply to n2ri

I apologize k lol. Its been a long week and with 18 credits of mech engineering classes and 20 hours of work I'm a bit burnt out...

Yeah if you read it right, the opening paragraph is kindof joshing him, but in a playfully encouraging way. But that's the crappy part of the internet: no cadence!

I feel like I just got a mile-high view of engine architecture, but deeper than I'd ever gone, as someone who never really worked with engines before. That opening rant was a really great tour of the engine.

I hope the author takes your advice, I can only imagine what they'll be capable of once the metal 3D printers come out!

Wow! Props to you!
3 days to print...and how long to design?

why not make it not use bearings like other plastic 'visible engine' models since they are not needed? also could print smaller scale easy then.

Way cool. I look forward to tackling this one down the road. I didn't realize the size until I saw the video...geesh.

I work in a Toyota plant as an engineer, with robots and all the fun stuff. Even I think this is cool and will be printing it!!!!!!

I've been thinking of using a scrap 2ar block as a coffee table base this just makes me want it more

Awesome work Eric.

Wow! Nice work! Very impressive.

One bug spotted. The assembly diagrams at the end there got something wrong in the upload or something. There are like a hundred of the same diagram uploaded. Might want to fix those.

Jan 24, 2015 - Modified Jan 24, 2015
ericthepoolboy - in reply to Norwegian1

Yeah, that's a problem in Thingiveres. I uploaded one pdf of each assembly drawing and it automatically made a hundred or more. Might be that their pdfs, but on my file list there's only one of each.

okkk you are crazy!!! finish!! i wish i had one of those !! congratulations

Wow. . .just. . .Wow!

Awesomely done sir. The ability to disassemble while its running is a nice touch.

Did you try making NinjaFlex belts?

That didn't even cross my mind. Now I have to go and order some NinjaFlex.

Wow! That's really impressive work.

I'd rather it were a 2ZZ-GE, as that's what I have in my Lotus Elise, but I think I need to build this.

You might want to consider a different career from pool boy. Meaning no disrespect to pool boys (who get to enjoy the perks of bored housewives), but you've got some talent! ;-)

Well done!! Note: Looks like gears_helical_16, oilpan-_scaled and rocker_arm_3mmhole-_scaled are bad.

Thanks for catching that. They must have gotten corrupted while uploading. All re-upped, let me know if you find anymore bad files.

Strange, still having problems with the same files. All the others look fine.

I forgot to hit save when uploading them... Try again

That did it. Thank you sir. You're about to cost me a lot of PLA! :-)

Dude, I love you!!!! Mine is outside it the parking lot eagerly waiting for me to drive her home!!!! VERY nice work!!! This looks like a carb'd version, yes?

It was based on the the EFI in my 85 4Runner but the carbed and fuel injected versions are identical until you add the intake manifolds.

This is amazing. I've been looking for a working scale model for a long time

That's awesome! Great work!

Looks great! I'm sure you spent a lot of time on this. Thank you for sharing.

Very nice.Definitely will try printing this soon!

By the way, what is the software tool that was used to build this model?

SolidWorks was used for all the modeling.

How long was entire modeling process of the engine in SolidWorks?

Nice print. Is that a 3D modeling joystick in you pictures? What model do you use and do you recommend it?

I have a 3D Connexion Space pilot pro. It's an awesome little toy, but unless you're making assemblies a lot or you get a screaming deal on one, a nice mouse works just fine. I use the 3D mouse mostly for assemblies with a ton of parts as it allows me to view any area fairly quick and the hot keys make inserting mates quick and easy. You can even check your email from they little screen on it. It's normally over $300 retail but if you're a student or a teacher, i've seen them on ebay for under $100 new for some reason.

Awesome! Gotta print one!

Nice! But I think you may need to set the timing again after removing the head. ;-)

You are correct, you can see the electric motor stall in the video when I put the head back on. There are marks on the drive gear and cam gear that mark TDC. If you put the head on with the valve timing out, you'll see the head jump up and down from piston slap since this is an interference engine.

makes for great way to show how important timing is and what happens on cars with timing belts when they mess up

Very nice work!

Most amazing - I just have to try this soon.
Always wanted to build an engine.

very impressive, one of the best things I have seen on thingiverse, you must be very proud of your inventiveness.Thanks for sharing.

Fantastic design. One of my employee's son has recently started studying auto mechanics. This is a good thing to print and give to him to study. Thanks

A very good idea since this is arguably the best IC motor (most reliable at least) ever made :)

Now on my list to do. Amazing job.

OMG... This is awesome! haha! I have an 89 xtra cab with this motor, so I am gonna have to print this!