by smartfriendz Feb 25, 2015
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I wanted to do with the 18mm wood but I can not change it. anyone to help?

i have an Geetech GT2560 laying around with all other hardware from an old CTC printer. will it do the job?
or is 8bit not enough for CoreXY style

8 bit is fine until you start printing very fast (watch tech2c's videos, there are two parts)

Part 1:

Part 2:


When output XYmotor, Ymotor and Xmotor overlap, this should correct it:

Line 1679:
res = [motorXY("left").translate([_wallThickness+10,0,0]), motorXY("right").mirroredX().translate([-_wallThickness-10,0,0])];

BearingsXY cylinder using to save material doesn't take into account wall thickness, line 758 in smartcore-v1.2.jscad needs to be changed to:


Hi !
There is a bug when you set the wall thickness to 15. The motor mount doesn't expand in the good way. So the holes for the motor are... In the wood.

The Z bottom piece in the Thingverse files is from the smartalu, not from the smartrapcore.

Hi, i'm trying to change wood thickness but when i do this nema holes goes to wrong place.

Someone to help me ?

I have printed parts of this printer I can give away, to anyone in the Washington DC area that might be interested... I think these are all the necessary parts, and would only need the vitamins. I also have the wooden box for a printed area of 186x186x200 mm.


What's wrong with z-bottom part? Its not compatible wtih the top holder, I think, that it's detail from ALU package. There is right z-bottom part?

I'm getting a bit confused guy's need some help please.

I need a 220x220x260 build area, X/Y in 8mm and Z in 10mm, Wood 10mm where do i find the measurements?


You can access the parametric design for the Smartrapcore at the Smartfriendz' Youmagine website:


If you scroll down to the heading "Documents" you will see three images. Hover your mouse over the gear icon to the right of the desired revision, and click "Edit in OpenJSCAD".

You can set the build area, as well as the X/Y rod sizes, Z rod sizes and wood thickness to your desired specifications. Use the pop-up menu in the bottom left to select the parts you wish to display and/or download. These parts include a box with the dimensions required to achieve your build area, as well as the rod and belt sizes.

Any place that sells the complete mechanical vitamins needed for this printer?


I'm very interested by this printer. But i don't understand something. In the thing details, it's said that you can chosse between 6mm or 8mm rods for XY axis... I allready have 8mm rods anda dozen of lm8uu. But i can't find where i can change the 6mm to 8mm, all i have is three stl files for 6mm rods. Sorry if i ask a stupid question, i'm french and maybe i missed something.

"i'm french and maybe i missed something"
Heu... Smartfriendz est français aussi pour info.

hehe.. mais j'ai répondu en anglais.. c'est pas plus mal ? c'est plutot international ici :)

Hi fabfadet,

It's not stupid at all. At that time, the sources where on youmagine in openjscad form.. the you could choose 6 or 8 mm in the menu. This version is still available but a litle old.
The new source version is in onshape, but it's not that easy to change.
I will put some 8mm version here in stl... maybe better :)

Bonjour !
Es ce que les dernières versions de tous les éléments sont bien sur cette page ?

Merci, et à bientôt pour la "I made it" !

ce ne sont pas les dernieres version.. je vais mettre a jour ici ( quelqu'un a demandé plus haut aussi :) .

Merci !
J'avais trouvé smartcore-v1.2.jscad sur youmagine entre temps.
J'ai opté pour un Z en 12mm et le reste en 8 (j'ai testé 12 mais ça ne fonctionne pas) et que vois je juste au dessus ? Un changement !
Coup de chance je comptais imprimer les pièces que demain.
Qu'y a t il de changé ?

c'est vrai qu'avec openjscad on peut tout changer.. mais c'était vraiment trop long a mettre a jour de mon coté. J'avais donc tout refait en onshape ( les sources sont simples et il suffit de copier pour changer a son compte).

un peu tout a changé... des petites ameliorations de production.. cette version date de deux ans, mais on n'a pas re-produit depuis.

Je viens de voir le nouveau lien. Merci pour la mise à jour rapide !
Je devrais m'occuper de ça dans la journée. En comptant les vacances, on devrait avoir une imprimante fonctionnelle fin août. La conception étant chouette, c'est la base que j'ai choisis pour initier l'impression 3d à des jeunes (concept, compréhension globale, montage, réglages, ...)
Merci encore !

I would like to use a e3d v6 clone, is this possible?

Yes, but you need to print a different (E3D V6 compatible) hotend mount. There are several available for download on Thingiverse.

how do u level the bed if there is tilt due to cantilever design and sag over time of the wooden board? do u print something to lift up the front end of the glass?

i just realize this uses proximity sensor at the carriage. So it is 4 point auto bed leveling?

The bed leveling probing pattern is determined in Marlin. If you read through configuration.h, you can find a section on auto bed leveling, which will detail the various options.

PLEASE someone make a youtibe review/ tutorial on this :)

There are currently a series of videos made by Smartfriendz (The creator of the Smartcore a.k.a. the Smartrapcore 3d printer) on youtube:

Please note that the videos show the assembly for an older design (not the current version; v1.2)

I am currently in the process of building this design myself (with a few modifications/improvements). If people are interested, I could post assembly videos.

Hij, did you already het you're videos on YouTube? Would Luke to see them.



I haven't uploaded any videos yet, but I am still in the process of assembling the printer. There are a few parts that I need to fix before I can go ahead with the assembly. As of right now, I have the wooden frame built, and the rod cut to size, but the 3d printed parts require post-processing before I can attach the gantry system to the wood frame. In addition, I have been looking through Smartfriendz' videos to see which videos could be improved upon, and in terms of general assembly, there is not much that I can fault. A detailed written explanation of the assembly steps and potential pitfalls would possibly be more helpful in my opinion, so I am therefore reconsidering making assembly videos. Thanks.

On another note: How is your build of the Sculptr printer going? (i noticed it on your profile page, but it was not completed as of the most recent picture.)

Hi mc88,

I have the sculptr frame ready, most of the components are ready and in house.
But as i was in the process of upgrading my zonestar (prussa i3 clone) with autobedleveling and firmware upgrades. It became clear to me that it would be much more difficult to get it up and running and printing good.
So i would like to make a more stable printer then my zonestar, i was thinking this smartcore should be fairly easy to build and would be more stable then my other printer.
Plan is after that get rid of the zonestar and only keep the smartcore after that i think i will restart the sculptr.

What i find most difficult for this design is to now what to print, many remixes, would want a hotbed, and a E3D V6 clone,...

That would be great.

I feel really stupid asking this but where is the endstop for the Z axis located?

Inductive sensor works as endstop its at right side of hotend.

Thank! I cannot believe I didn't think about that :D

Hi, I am in the process of obtaining the parts for my SmartrapCore, and I was wondering whose Smartrapcore has the largest print volume? In addition, what wood thickness did you use? Thanks

hi i have 2 question about this machine
1) i print the old part( the one have 1 limit switch under xy carriage, not the newest one have 2 limit switch on the left carriage) i want to know where is the second limit switch at?
2) the table move up then fall down. is the problem because the firmware not hold the rable in position? or the table weight too much?

1) Some of the old parts you just placed on the wood. Maybe with some spacer to get it out so the xy carriage can hit it.
2) Look at this comment: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:651117/#comment-763261


Today I have a cubic box (60cm) with the entire frond as door to enclosure my i3v. I will no have the top edge to hang the HW.
There is a way to mount this print in my box?Maybe a bit of remix in this parts? What do you think?

Is the spacing of the X carage is the same as the Prusa? So i can use a direct drive extruder carage ?

40 mm distance between the two rods.

This printer was a pleasure to build. I really appreciate the low part count and simplicity.

Does anybody know if OnShape version still with the problem on X-axis? The problem: length of spacing for 2x LM6UU instead of 2x LM8UU (as said by magico13)?

OnShape version is all 8mm rods.

This is right WhiteRenard, but the length for LM8UU are not right on Y carriage, acording to magico13 (was made for LM6uu, which is smaller in length).

Hmm, I think I'm using a remix carriage right now (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1190481) But If I remember correct I had printed the Onshape version as well. The tip of LM8UUs do stick out of carriage a little bit on both sides, but it really isn't an issue tbh.

SmartrapCore new slideX (V. 3.2) for 6 & 8mm rods, with 2 optionnal fanducts

For me, two LM8UUs most definitely would not fit in the top of the carriage, where they sort of snap in. They are just about perfect in the bottom. If you look at the dimensions of the "LM8UU" part in the OnShape version, the length is only 19mm and not 24mm like they should be. I think you can probably get away with just using one bearing, but I'm trying out using some shorter printed ones

Comments deleted.

may i use a newer version of marlin ? how do i do that ?

YES ! im using the new version of marlin

Hey lads,
should i change the configuration.h :
since the probe is 40 mm from the printing head ?

When i change it, whenever i try to print something on the center of the bed it offsets it do the right. how do i fix it ?

forget it! get the new version of marlin and change the conf for corexy, invert the y axis and youre good to go! if anyone need some advice on how to get it rolling, just ask !

hi, I am having a little problem with thickness of mdf, mdf supplier said only 12mm is available as that too will vary from 11mm to 12mm anywhere in between, will that be okay for the plastic parts and also WhiteRenard you mentioned motor not fitting in plastic parts when you change wood thickness in onshape, can u elaborate on what kind of problem it can have as I am getting custom printed plastic parts from a seller on ebay, that way if any problem occurs I wouldn't be able to print new ones and so it will be expensive

EDIT - thx WhiteRenard n magico13, already ordered from ebay i think i will have to do some manual work

I think the original thickness is 12mm, isnt? If so then you won't have any problems buying vanilla (non modified) parts off ebay.
If it isn't and you need to change the thickness, then do it manually in a model editing software, I used Blender.
I did it on Onshape first and the screw holes for the motors on the plastic part were too close to the wall and the motor simply couldn't fit there.

I can confirm the OnShape issue with the motor positions. I'm in the process of assembling mine now and had to change a few things. For the motor mounts, I used Fusion 360 to change the parts from 10mm to 12.2mm (what my plywood was) and now it's fine. My x-axis didn't have enough clearance from the wall, so I ended up redesigning the x-axis sliders to provide more clearance. The OnShape parts are designed around 8mm rods and are half designed around LM8UU's: the width of the linear bearings in OnShape are correct but the length is that of LM6UU's (19mm instead of the 24mm they should be). As such, the top of the hotend block is too small to fit two LM8UUs and you either need to resize it or use different bearings, I'm using some printed bearings for the top and regular LM8UUs for the bottom. The LM8UUs should work fine everywhere else (I'm only using one for the x-axis sliders instead of two, if you use two they'll stick out). I also had to scale the 608zz things up by 1% because they wouldn't fit on my 608zz bearings. Scaling up 1% made them slide right in with just enough friction to keep them in place and I'm not too worried about them coming off during use.

Get the wood first, then measure it and get your parts. And be somewhat gentle with them, I've broken a few and have had to reprint several things.

Also, I haven't figured out what the intended method for securing the z-axis belt is supposed to be for the new bed carrier. I came up with a method that works, but there's only one slot for the belt unlike the previous versions that had two. There also isn't a spot that I see for the y-axis endstop so I'm planning on making one that attaches to the right-side x/y-motor. The OnShape version seems unfinished and untested to me and I'd personally recommend one of the previous versions since they appear to work correctly. If you choose the OnShape version you just need to do a bit more manual work I think.

you didn't need aluminium plate for the autobed level sensor?

I use mk3 aluminum heat bed with 3 mm glass on top. Get inductive sensor with 8mm range.

I believe they used some sort of metal tape on the glass in the corners where the sensing is done. In my build I'm just using an aluminum bed with no glass. I might try some relatively thin glass later on and hope that the sensor can penetrate through the glass and see the aluminum.

Hello guys, im on the onshape and i want to change the parameters like i would on the JSCAD version, how do i do that ? im kinda lost in there ! i need to change the thickness of the mdf and linear rods...
Thanks !

The OnShape version uses 8mm rods by default. To change those settings, you must select the specific part, right click and choose the "Switch to {partname}" option to view just that part, then change the "Variable #woodThickness" on the left window pane to your wood thickness. The rods work the same way. You must change it manually for every part, there isn't a global variable that controls it on all parts unfortunately.

Comments deleted.

There seems to be a lot of different versions floating around. Is this version, the onshape, or the youmagine JSCAD the latest version?

OnShape is latest and easiest to assemble.

link to this version? what is onshape?


This appears to be the 1.2.2 version according to the description while the JSCAD one is 1.2.0

However, I think this one has 6mm linear rods so if you want to adjust that to 8mm rods, use the JSCAD version which is nearly identical.

Is it 3 files only?

Yes, totally. This printer is THAT efficient.

So I can't get the firmware to compile if I enable #define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER.

In fact, even if I enable #define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER, I can't get it to compile and that's the one they send you if you buy the kit.

I got the firmware off their github. And I have the u8glib installed. Anyone had this issue or know how to fix it?

SOLUTION: I downloaded Marlin from Marlin's own Github instead of using Smartfriendz version. I copied over Smartfriendz values into the fresh version of Marlin and it's running very well. So be aware that Smartfriendz Marlin firmware does not correctly support the Discount Full Graphic LCD which is probably the one you guys will buy.

The big graphics lcd? I have one and its working with marlin.

Well yeah me, too. I just couldn't get it to work with Smartfriendz Marlin config posted on their Github. I had to download Marlin straight from the source.

thx WhiteRenard, will definitely try silicon heater,
just that what do u mean by 200 cube
edit : so if m increasing walls and rod by 100 than printer should be 300 cube right

Hi, m building wooden smartrapcore as my first 3d printer but m still a noob who want to ask some questions:)
1) I want a print area of 300x300x300 so l only need to increase the dimensions of walls and rods by 100mm in onshape, no need to edit any printed parts right?
2) initially will print with pla, but later if I want to print with abs and (considering above print area 300x300x300) i got only 200x200 heatbed, can i use this 200x200 heatbed with above print space
3) for z axis I will be using AndreasL alternative dual z axis for smartrapcore, will above print area cope with this well enough?
edit : got ans for 3) from Andreas

1) If the Onshape dimensions are exactly 200 cube, then yes, all you need to do is increase the rod and wood sheets by 100. I think the wood thickness of the onshape parts are 10mm, keep that in mind if yours are thicker!

2) Sure, you could put the 200x200 heatbed on it, but that's kind of a waste of space... There are bigger pcb heatbeds out there, a little more uncommon, but they're there. Or you could buy a thick sheet of casted aluminum (It HAS to be casted, not extruded) then attach a silicone heater underneath it. This will be perfect for the Z sensor as well.

3) My bed is about 280x340 with 4mm glass on top. And yes, it's not a problem. However if you go with aluminum, it'll be heavier, cause you still need the woodplate. You can't mount a heated bed directly on plastic... So that'll make things heavier. Will it work? dunno. Gotta try to find out!
I'm using 16mm thick MDF for my bed with cut outs, it weights about 500 grams. Haven't weighted the glass though.

me again. I read that for bowden extrusion 3mm filamet ist better...what do you think?
do i have to modify the bowden extruder from the openjscad for extruding 3mm filament. Do you think its worth the work?

Just stick to 1.75mm. I see people worrying about filament diameter and which to use everyday, but the fact is 1.75mm is just fine and you'll probably never notice a difference, if there is one! 1.75 is much more common and so are the parts for it.

I've had some pretty bad experiences with the Bowden extruder that is included in the SmartrapCore design files with 1.75 filament. I think this design might be better with 3mm filament, but since 1.75 seems to be a common standard I changed the extruder for the 3Dator Bowden Extruder design. This has solved my issues with 1.75mm filament on a Bowden extruder and I think it has more to do with capturing the filament path from drive gear to bowden tube with very little empty space for the 1.75mm filament to kink.


3Dator Bowden Extruder
by 3Dator

This looks really good. I added it to my print files :)
now i only have to find this project on OnShape :D

Ok nice, that's what I'd hoped for :)

Another question: I played with the openjscad for a bit and was wondering how much height is calculated for the filament spool for the z-axep

So If I get the result, that my z-rods have to be like 33cm long, how much of it is for the spool to go under the bed?

Thx for the reply

You probably would want to use the latest files from OnShape. Much better design and assembly. In the latest versions, spool isn't placed under the bed anymore.

Thank you,
i did not know of onshape. i will search for it :)
thx for your effort.

Edit: Nice now i'm officially confused :D on onshape there are a dozen projects with the name "smartcore". I finally found "CNC-Smartcore" i thought: Yeah that's nice. and then i saw how many parts there are :X for alu and without...The assembly looks a bit off to me. like the rods and the y-slide aren't connected right....and the z-slide has only one teeth-part for the belt...and the bed is inside the extruder :/
i wanna cry right now :D

edit(edit): I think i can get the parts that i need...i had to sort a few things. most things i will have to edit due the fishing line. i already made pulley and v-groove bearing :)

Someone posted the onshape link down in the comments:
Yeah, the assembly is off on the onshape but the parts are fine. Although keep in mind that you might need to modify the parts depending on how thick your wood sheets are. I had 16mm MDF so I modified them with Blender. You can do it Onshape but when I printed it like that, the motor simply didn't fit! So I modified the original vanilla files with Blender.
If you're using 16mm MDF too, I can upload the files for you.
Although, my files are for belts, not fishing line. Dunno what you'd need to change for fishing lines, probably just the pullys.

That file is awesome :D
can u explain to me, why there are two holes on the XY_bearings? the bottom one is for the rod. what ist the upper one for?
and the back_fanduct (grey) is for printig ABS with hotbed right?
The endstop for the left/right movement (i thin x-axes) is by the head, where are the z and y endstops?

Yeah, I'm not sure what the upper hole is for. I just use the bottom hole for the rods.
No, the back fan duct is for PLA. You shouldn't use a fan to cool abs prints, they'll warp and crack etc...

The Z doesn't use an endstop since you'll have an Inductive sensor. That'll be used for both leveling the bed and an endstop.
For the Y axis (back and forth movement), I've glued the endstop switch on the left bottom corner of the left motor mount. Basically it's glued to the wooden wall and the switch's lever activates the switch. This gave me the most space on my Y axis.

It's really nice of you to answer all my noobie questions :)
So I print both fan ducts (in onshape green and grey) and ignore the upper holes :)
Thx man, can't wait to begin the building -phase

Np man, post a Made when you're done! :D

Wow I never would have thought that I wouldn't understand so many words in one sentence :)
Blender is a modeling program right? I have sketchup 2016
Vanilla files like an ice flavour :)
I opened onshape and did understand right nothing...I tried to create a cube...a cube...and simply failed...I have to go through some tutorials for onshape :) I have 12mm wood so thx but can't use your files...I also want to modify the design a bit...want a closed top and a drawer under the plate where everything is stored...I'm in my exams phase right now so I can't do much of the stuff I really care about...but it can't always rain...
Thx for your reply

Haha :D
Sorry, I'll try to make it more clear.
First you need to make a private copy of the document on Onshape to be able to modify anything. It's on top left corner if I remember correctly. Then open the new document and right click one of the parts, like a Left motor mount for example and select Switch to [FILE NAME]. Then there's a variable on left side called WoodThickness or something, and you can change that. It's in millimeters. After you're done, select the first tabon bottom of the page, "all_standard" to go back to the printer assembly.
This is what I tried the first time, and after I printed the part, it fit the 16mm MDF perfectly, but the motors mounting holes were way off.
So instead I downloaded the original files, unmodified. Then modified them myself using Blender, yes it's a free modeling program. (Not a CAD design program.) You need an addon to be able to edit STL files with it.
Anyway, let me know if that was better! :D
And good luck on your exams!

much better, thanks :)
i think i'm gonna stick with sketchup for now...i already tried blender but it was so overwhelmingly full of buttons :D i think i can also do the changes i need with SU...it will take only more time...when my own printer is ready, i will upload it here :) i like the thought to have thousands of other eyes reviewing your work with the intention to simplify and improve the design you have chosen to build :)
thx and wish me luck

(im looking for affordable nema 17 motors...thats a real pain in the ass...like finding someone who prints you your parts for an affordable price :) germany is a bit expensive compared to the US)

Hi Guys,
which parts do i have to change for using fishing lines (http://www.robotdigg.com/product/52/PE+Braided+70LBS+Fishing+Line+50M) instead of timing belts? do i need couplers (http://smartfriendz.com/783-big_default/coupler-a-5mm-5mm.jpg) and the special bearings (http://www.robotdigg.com/upload/201308/104/5c239fb6106ce75a3549ed7a102063ab.gif) for the fishing lines? is fishing line by the z movement recommended?

is there a way i can input the size of my box and the openjscad tells me the length of the rods? Im concerned to build to box wrong (every angle not 90°) or does the autobedcalibration compense it?

Is it better to print these parts in ABS or PLA? Is there a heat concern for the hot-end mount associated with either material? Thanks!

Heat won't be an issue. The part where the hotend is attached to doesn't or should I say, shouldn't get hot or the filament will get jammed, that's why there's a fan.
My first printer has all the parts in PLA, even a fan mount that is close to the hotend. The only advantage ABS will have for this application is that it'll be stronger. PLA's strength is enough though.
So my point is, if you're using a 3D printing service to get the parts, go for whichever is cheaper in terms of material.

Awesome, so if abs and pla are priced the same I will go for the abs. Thanks for the reply ;)

I asked a similar question previously and after surprising replied I've made my hot end assembly out of PLA. Its generally cheaper, friendlier to print and doesn't kill me with fumes. And the parts are working perfectly :)
EDIT: But yes, if possible ABS is most likely preferable for mechanical parts.

Is there a remix which changes the Z movement to a screw / leadscrew instead of belts?

Smartrapcore Z axis with trapezoidal screw (New design)
by oikos

Nice, have you built it yet? How is it?

Probably an overkill for a small bed but I wanted to prep for a custom printed which I am in the process of building now. I will keep the Z Axis I posted above.

If the frame is slightly uneven (not perfectly level) will the inductive sensor compensate for that and adjust the bed as each layer is printed?

Yes but depends on the firmware.

Why not a 8mm rod version ? With same 1/8" walls ?

Can you use a E3D v6 hotend with this? Or do you need a J-Head?

He IS using an E3D hotend, J-head is just what they call the chinese knock offs. Which I think isn't even the correct term for this type of hotend.

Hello i'm new with 3dprinting. I have a solidoodle like printer and i'm using a geeetech mk8 extruder in it. Can i use it in this design? i'm thinking of remaking my printer with this design. I have all the electronics. and would like to reuse most of them as to reduce the cost.

Thanks guys! :)

Comments deleted.

Hey, wanted to mention that I have a spin of this using Vslot for the X axis, and it works really well. It resists some of the twisting I had seen with 8mm rods.


I'll get my copies of the SCADs up on my fork, feel free to make use of it yourselves!

Hi! Does anybody have a list of of components with links to Aliexpress (with the number of parts, e.g., in Excel)?

what is the highest speed ?

hi..can u please help with the firmware.
i have a problem with enabling z motor to hold the print bed x seconds.{the problem is ,the z motor is not enabled enough time and the printbed fall down and start to print in the air} ,i am usig heatbed.
thk u .

In "Configuration_adv.h" change the following deactive time. If set to 0, it is disabled and will not deactive stepper motors.
//default stepper release if idle

thk u for your help.

I've been using my SmartRapCore for awhile now and it's really great once built.

The Z platform is a little bit wobbly since it's all plastic. I wonder if you could use some SC10UU bearing blocks and 2020 extrusions to make a more stable Z platform.

Looks nice! printed all parts.. but came to the conclution that I need to use 8mm rods all around..
Tried to use OpenJSCAD but could not get it right.
Can anyone upload a remix with 8mm rods and 12mm wood?


same problem here !
please fix it?
the v1.2 with lmu8 / 8mm rods on x/y/z axis

[Remix] SmartRapCore 8mm / LM8UU - 12mm wood frame

Same here. No lm8u bearings fit in the holes, even after opening and modifying the OpenJSCAD.

is there like in OpenJSCAD a menu, where you can insert the desired sizes ( eg 10mm or 12mm wood, 8mm rods etc) ?
I have certainly not enough knowledge of Onshape, to be able to change the drawing to fit the 8mm rods or 10mm wood, in my case. .

Comments deleted.

is there someone who can tell me how I can connect Z-probe to the ramps? Wiring diagram will be really good!

Im new to 3d printing but want to print this. What settings in cura should I use for the best/fasted outcome?

I've printed this in PLA at 0.3 layer height, 50% infill (too much for some parts), shell thickness 0.8, bottom/top thickness 0.9, 60 mm/s @ 0.4mm nozzle.

anybody who can share the firmware for this printer?

The Marlin firmware files can be downloaded from SmartFriendz github repository:


Note that the firmware is version 1.0.1, so a little dated. It did work pretty well for me though. I have sense updatd to 1.0.2

I have been watching this design since you posted it Serge, I even have the V1 parts from you. Time to print up the current parts and finally (finally) assemble it. I can add it to my growing printer farm!

I have a question ,why you gays choose the LJ18A3-8-Z/BX not the LJC18A3-8-Z/BX???

Alright I finally got everything working but I can't print faster than 30mm/s or my metal extruder just can't push the filament through the hot end fast enough. This is m first time going bowden so I'm sure it's something simple I'm missing. So far I have tried putting more pressure on the screw applying force to the filament, lowering the acceleration, lowering the max feedrate of the E axis to 30mm/s (sad but it works). and increasing the heat. Nothing besides decreasing the speed seemed to work. I'm printing a test marvin (from 3d hubs now) and everything looks great I just need to be able to print faster.


Hey Guys!

Just about to finish my smartrapcore (yay)..

How ever, i have an issue with the wiring for the hot end and the PTFE bowden tube.. It seems to be affecting my hotend and inductive sensor during probing, resulting in one point beeing too close to the bed.

Do you guys know any way to "relief" the cables? and there for releasing some of the pressure it applies on the hotend mount?

My smartrapcore is 300x300x300mm, if that has anything to say.

it sounds a litle strange to me ? maybe the bowden is too short ? or cables, simply ? in that case we solder some cable extensions.
300x300 , that sounds great. I hope we will see some pics ? or even a new build here ?
thank you

As a side note, i printed the V1.0.1 - Should i upgrade for the v1.2 sliding bits?

101 should be fine.
It's good to update every 2 or 3 evolutions though , you see a nice difference. Updates are also integrating user's experiences and feedback about what was the most anoying , or hard to adjust.

Thank you for the feedback!

I tried wrapping up my cables and bowden tubes just for the looks of it, and this seems to have reliefed the pressure quite a bit :D
It's now printing close to perfect :)

And obv. i will put up some pictures :P just have to give it some looks first!

Quick question: My X0,Y0 is in the back left of the printer instead of the front left. Any idea on how to make the X0,Y0 be in the front left? If it helps, I'm using a RAMPS 1.4 and Marlin.

I ended up fixing it through trial-and-error. I needed to swap the X & Y stepper motor plugs and then flip the plug for the Y stepper motor (now connected to the X driver).

good try :) I'm sorry i wanted to look how to do that here but didn't find the time to find the right solution.. i see you found out :)

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Which is more up to date, the Onshape file or the JScad?

Is there a BOM for the printed parts from your Onshape file? Im looking to get them printed (standard box version) and dont want to miss anything.

Or a simplified BOM for the parts that are necessary to get it printing, and then the extra parts to print once the printer is working?

Built this awhile ago, and works great for the most part. Did custom parameters in OpenJSCad.

1ft 8mm X/Y rods, 400mm 10mm Z rods. I went with a different extruder - found a simple bowden extruder using a mk8 extruder gear and a compression spring which I liked better.

  1. When scaling up to 10mm on Z, the Z slide will rub against the back of the box. It needs to be spaced out a tiny amount from the back. I used a couple of washers with decent success, although the wood screw doesn't thread a whole lot into the wood. So far it holds up alright, although I did put wood glue on the screws before screwing them in.

  2. For the top of the Z slide where you insert the rods, I found that when I tried to tighten the belt for Z, the part would flex downward and my Z rods, which were once flush with the top of the part, now poke out. I modified the STL by putting a cover over the top of the rods so they stay in the part. I also extended the hole for the screw that holds the 608zz bearing all the way through the part as the bolts I had stuck out because they were too long. I also made the holes 5.2mm in diameter to compensate for some plastic shrinkage, and now the rods fit snugly without sanding or drilling.

  3. Scaling the X/Y to 8mm causes the clamps for the lm8uu bearings to be too small. Screwing a screw in cracks it for me, and there's not enough area for the head of the screw or a nut to properly clamp the bearings into place. I ended up screwing some screws halfway in until the head hit the plastic, and then secured everything in place with some hot glue.

  4. Endstops weren't getting hit. The X endstop kept going under the part which it was supposed to hit. The Y endstop was barely missing the part that was supposed to hit it as well. I cut up some small pieces of filament and hot glued them in a stack so that they hit the endtops.

Overall, really great work. Besides the couple hiccups which I managed to workaround, the printer went together quite easily(although making the box took a lot more time than expected). Print quality and build volume is stellar, especially considering I managed to source everything for under $350.

Once I fix some issues with my power supply wires I'll probably post a make.

wonderful ! nice job .
thank you for the feedback , it's always very usefull to read real experience.

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I found that out, but now I have a serious problem which were not exist in the first version, where can we mount the end stops'

One is under the X carriage, facing the left if you look from the front of the printer.

Y is mounted on the box on the right panel.

You can see the mounting locations if you render the full machine in OpenJScad

What happened to the option for without wood supports, Im trying to use your gantry in a enclosure with a top so the wrap over style doesnt work, I see v1 has them but the bearing setup has changed.

ha yes. this option in first version didn't follow up . I'm sorry for that . We are actually working on an aluminium frame , so the parts will have again this option ( direct screws without wood top ) .
more infos to come at the end of the week .

Any info yet? I got all my vitamins just waiting to print, Super excited thanks!

awesome! I was about to start just cutting it up in blender lol

awesome! I was about to start just cutting it up in blender lol

I have finished the smartrapcore printer and the first print of a cube has the form is equal at rhombus.
Not understand why.
I noticed that the two pulleys in the "Y" direction does not run perfectly aligned.

Can help me ?



I would like to make a SmartrapCore with all axes 8mm and all bearings LM8UU.
I didn't found a version, so I would wanted to adapt in OpenSCAD , but I always get this error when I open the "smartcore.scad" file from Github:
Compiling design (CSG Tree generation)...
WARNING: Ignoring unknown function 'polygon'.
WARNING: Ignoring unknown function 'polygon'.
WARNING: Ignoring unknown function 'polygon'.
WARNING: Ignoring unknown function 'polygon'.
WARNING: Ignoring unknown variable 'output'.
WARNING: Ignoring unknown function 'polygon'.
WARNING: Ignoring unknown function 'polygon'.
How can I solve this , or is there a version with all axes 8mm available ?
Thanks in advance

What's the advantage of JSCAD?
Also I get a compile error from the github fork's smartcore-v1.2.jscad (1.2.4 june 17 2015) saying:

"TypeError: this.color.join is not a function"

The solution is to replace in line 534:




setColor is expected to be an array not a string.

Hi, you can have all the parts instead of the divided plate complete? I have no way of print for so many hours so I need individual pieces ... thanks

Update ;)
forget it all found on github

Where do i put the new xy stop sensors in 1.2.4 cant seem to find the right spot.

X endstop is under the carriage of the fusor facing left, and Y endstop is on the right side facing back, next to the motor.
If you go to youmagine and render the file with openjscad, you can see them on place.

Thanks for the great design!

I've tried to post on youmagine, but it didn't work =(

I'm having a trouble with inductuon sensor mount part - generated from JSCAD it is not complete - it doesn't have the full ring around the sensor, just the from half. Where do I get the correct one?

Also, belt length calculated in JSCAD is a total length including all the belts or its only x-y belts?

All newest design, firmware and slicer settings are found at: https://github.com/smartfriendz/smartcore

This project looks like it is developed i JSCAD and there are some parameters which can be chosen. But not all combinations are tested and verified to be good.

I've been using 8mm rods all over and there have been some bad parts. Many of these bad designs has been changed and therefore I can't say if they are all solved now.

So version on OpenJSCAD (which is on youmagine) is not the latest and greatest?

If you get induction sensor mount with half hole it is not newest. I've always found github to have the newest changes.

Are the files at "Thing Files" for version 1.2.4? are they update?
Someone can tell me where can I find the design of the extruder ("cold end"), I couldn't find it with the others design. Isn't usually comes with the others parts? any design can work as extruder?

Best regards,

Could you please tell me if the picture above is a version 1.2 or 1.2.4?
I couldn't fin info about the 1.2.4 here

Best regards,

The first picture and the movie are a version 1.2.4

Just some questions :
how did you manage to have clean print on the plate 2 ? The holes for the rod (6mm) on the Y slides have overhang that start on nothing ...I don't see how you can print it ...

How will you fix the spool holder in the box ?

We are looking for a 2d-configuration for laser engraver, your design is the machine that I was dreaming, thanks a lot!!!

Me too! How is your build going? I have not started yet.

SC12 plate 1/2/ 3 are not manifold ! impossible to slice right now !!!

Ho yes sorry, i forgot to pass by netfabb basic. The stl out from openjscad are good for cura but not for slic3r.

Ok !

Where may i find the Smartcore Profile for Cura ?

You should be able to find it on the github : https://github.com/smartfriendz/smartcore/
(profile then cura)

Where I can find the openjscad for the 1.2.2 version? I want to use 8mm rods on XY

go to the main tab and look for the link to the youmagine page. the openjscad will be in documents tab. not sure if the one there has been updated to 1.2.2 yet though.

great genial 3d printer!
this ist probably the best 3d printer on thingiverse. because the steppers have to move small weights - so the printer can print faster.
thank you for sharing us your work.

can someone help me? i only have 10mm linear rods, and lm10uu bearings... i need the pieces with that holes!


How would we measure how long the z belt should be?

Also do you think that the carriage would be strong enough to hold a direct drive extruder?


any way you could set it up to where the files are not all together so it can be printed a few at a time or one part if someone needs to just make one part

You have to go to https://www.youmagine.com/designs/smartcore there you have the openjscad, put your parametres (rods, print volume, etc...) and then you can chose to see or export stl from separated parts.
You will find the 3 versions released.

Downloading doesn't seem to work - tried firefox, chrome, and IE... both auto-download (waited forever) and clicking the link fail.

Is the site experiencing problems? I'm about 100 of the downloads... the count kept going up as I tried but failed. This is by far the best Corexy design I've seen, and I'd LOVE to have it rather than designing parts from scratch.

Thanks so much... Can't wait.

Tou have to "edit" in openjscad, and when you configured it, select build plate for download stl...

You can see to the size of the wood planks, rods and the belt you need, if select wood an rod size.

Thanks, but I was talking about the youmagine smartcore download here: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/smartcore/download

That fails to give you the openscad source, which is it's purpose... I got the source from github, but wanted to let them know their site is failing.

This is one of the more elegant designs for a CoreXY. Has anyone else used that configuration to eliminate the belt crossover?

How long does the z belt need to be? (Presuming default settings)

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Has anyone already made the hotend suspension suitable for E3D V6?

Just created one

I had a problem with slicing plate 2 with slic3r, so I've fixed file using https://netfabb.azurewebsites.net/. There is link ;) Plate one ready!

What are the metal-looking pieces under the glass? I'm thinking of building a smartrapcore, and would like auto leveling as well. I will be using a glass plate, but the proximity sensor needs to detect metal.

Looks like aluminum tape.

It's aluminum Tape for the Inductive Sensor, for calibration.

Friend, you could help me? I live in Brazil and not against electronic .. u could tell me or tell where can I find?


Nice! What thickness of the filament is used ?

The Filament used is 1.75 mm.

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Really nice and compact!!!! This is what i'm looking for. TQ

Nice Build :D

I have ordered the SmartrapCore from Smartfriendz Shop... Waiting for Shipping :P

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Thank you for this interesting design.
I have an E3D extruder the same as the one on the above images.
Is it possible to have this option in jscad?

Thank you

I saw E3D and JHEAD have the same attach dimensions. I modified the diameters in jscad file to 16.2 and 12.2

Which parameter did you modify?

I found the extruders holes too small.
I modified in the jscad file the values on lines 571-599-625 to 16.2 and on lines 572-600-626 to 12.2

I am not a jscad expert so I just tried because I already printed the other parts and the hotend attachment was the last missing

Hey! awesome design! I'm thinking of buying one on your website, but I have a few questions:

  • How is the print size (on the stock one you sell on your site)?
  • Does it use 1.75mm or 3mm filament?

thanks chabachaba.

print size is 200x200x150 by default ( with the settings here and with the sold kits ) .

it uses 1.75mm filament.

The Y-slide bearing holders look smaller than the bearing holders on the Z-slide part. Are they the right size? When printed they seem too small to fit the LM8UU bearings.

In this version on thingiverse , we use the basic kit , that means : XY rods in 6mm and Z rod in 8mm.

All options are available ( even bigger rods), but that is only in youmagine with the openjscad file .

ah, that makes much more sense now, thank you. Now I just need to learn how to use those :P

it's quiet simple to just visualize , choose options and select "generate plates" . Then save as stl.
Note : the generated stl there is not good for slic3r , but ok for cura . For slic3r you will need to clean the plates with netfab basic.

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Great design! Any decrease in Z accuracy though from using belts rather than threaded rods?

Thank you :) I didn't notice nad the result is very flat on Z. I think we have a 0,1 mm resolution which is exactly what we wanted.

Great! Then I guess I have a new project to build. hehe

The parts in the video are different from the ones in the images. The video has the rods mounded side-by-side whereas the images have them with one above the other. The video one seems to be superior to me. Are the part files updated to match this?

The video was a beta version and this one is more compact with both rods vertically aligned. Its not less strong or stable, so I don't think the old version was superior ? In term of printing, i find the new version more stable with integrated new bearings supports.

Do you think you will archive an higher print quality with this printer than with a good adjusted Prusa i3?

I really can't tell . I think it's very complicated to define "well adjusted" .. and IMO there is no competition between such two models. Prusa I3 is a wonderful machine , definitely !
With time, i think we will see more and more printed out from smartrapcore, so we will better see if it's good enough :)
For now, i can tell i'm happy to print at 80mm/s and 150mm/s moves :)


I've just ordered parts for the Core! I am wondering about where to find info about the screws/bolts etc to put it all together?

and also has anyone found anywhere cheap to buy the glass plate?

Thanks!! cant wait to try it! will be my first printer :D

a BOM is started on youmagine. i will coy it here in a doc as it's finished . The screw set is right now.


I'd like to make a purchase, but I have a lot of the parts you already have there so I am hoping to do this: purchase the printed parts, rods, hardware (nuts screws, etc.), switches, fan, sensor and end-stops (I will use yours just to be safe). I already have bearings, LM8UUs, steppers and the RAMPS (although if your RAMPS is pre-flashed and configured then I would buy that), belts, pulleys/gears. I would likely build the box out of wood as you have or the same thickness machined aluminum with acrylic 'windows' and a door. Is there a way to purchase these items from you or as sub-kits? If you are able and willing, would you please send me a PayPal invoice and I will pay it.


Hi Samer,

Did you find our shop , now with lot of accessories ? : http://shopping.smartfriendz.com . Maybe you will find there what you want ? It would be more easy than doing all by email ( certainly for me).
About the wood, i guess it's better to make it cut directly there in a local shop ? there's absolutely no forms inside, just straight planks.
Note : I've just made a special shipping price for USA ( after some deal ) .. globally 20 euros.

I did. Is your RAMPS a stock board or did you flash it with something special? If not I will use one I have here and an LCD to go with it.

ho. ok.. sorry :)

I do flash it , but nothing special. it's the marlin I use for all smartrapcore. It is simply on our github ( configured) , in the smartcore part.
From this version, i think it is very simple to adjust variablese to make work the LCD ( some line with the right LCD to uncomment in configuration.h ) .

Do you by any chance have a step by step document with how you flash and make edits and ao on? Everything I have found in the web makes assumptions about what has to happen first and usually they are off.

Great design, I like the inductive sensor. Also much cheaper than a frame with aluminium profiles. Do you think a direct drive extruder is possible?

Autolevel was "difficult" on my mod of the original smartrap so I have changed it to a more semi automatic version (lil bit like the first servo version just without servo).

If I finish my CNC I would like to try a full aluminium version of this printer. But I am unsure about the Z-Axis. Is it really rigid like this? Looks like the plate is fixed just in the back? Would love to see a photo of the mounted plate from below.

Anyway, thanks for your work in the past. It got me into 3D printing!

Thank you for the compliments autrion, and if i could do something to bring you in this nice domain, especially in the open source side, i'm more than happy :)

The plate is not "really" rigid like this. It's enough to print with good quality, but i'm not 100% happy with it.. Working in the background to another solution.. I try to don't complicate too much ( simplicity should be the number one feature of this printer) , and no more steppers.. so it won't be easy to find. We will find.. we always find :)

I have yet to build a 3d printer but I have been researching for a long time and following the 3d printing scene for years. I will be building a machine in a month or two and it will more than likely be a SmartRap or SmartRapCore. Thank you for all of your contributions to the community!

I have been thinking about the Z-axis design and playing around a bit in Sketchup. I was thinking about just printing out two of the Z-axis Assembly and driving them both from a dual shaft NEMA 17. You would be adding the weight of two more bearings and two more supports but I think the additional stability would be worth it. The cost would be minimal. You be doubling your parts in the Z assembly as well as adding a few 625 bearings, a shaft coupler, and a piece of 5mm rod. Of course, you would need to change the sides of the box that the Z axis assemblies mount to but that shouldn't be that big of an issue either.

Here is a drawing of what I am thinking:

very good idea ! I wouldn't think about the double shaft stepper... I was also thinking about a double Z of course.

certainly something to try in real ! not so hard to test i think ? parts are just two times the same :)

thank you !

Great idea Wayne!

@Serge: Which Induction Sensor are you using for the autolevel? I am searching already for a few hours but can't find one with 5V. I am trying to retrofit the smartrap with a direct drive extruder and induction.

Update: Found a cheap Chinese sensor on eBay, question answered ;)

Did you noticed issues with belts dropping off "slide Y" part's bearings?
Are the GT pulleys and "bearing xy" parts limit the slide of bearing?
I imagine if machine is straight and level it would not happen, but reality is different sometimes

On the picture model, it could happen easy , but on the last version ( stl ) , the slideY part where extended , so the belts are between the hats now .
bearingsXY don't have this problem as the belt pass inside and is well maintained in case of misalignment.

You may need some vibration absorbtion sheets, such as cork, at board connections.

absolutely ! It is in fact not "that" noisy. I was used to the smartrap which is very quiet. So, after the first standard adjustments, we will work on that.
It looks like making holes in wood panels help also.

thank you mad :) it's just a start . I believe this model will go farther than the smartrap. The basis is more strong.

I'm working on finishing another printer now, but I will give this one a go after I finish it. I'll use 8mm rods since I have some already. What infill do I need on the printed parts? I may get to printing those soon.

Found issue with 2 elements motorXY and bearingsXY - they don't behave correctly for wider boards (like 19mm or 3/4 inch)

here is patch file to fix it

hee. thank you :) It's not common to find someone finding a bug AND resolve it ! cool :)

Fantastic design. My son and I built a smartrap last year mainly because it could easily be broken down to fit in luggage as he studies overseas and needs the portability. The smartrap could be built really cheaply and was light and compact. Your new core machine looks much more rigid and robust and can no doubt be pushed faster. I'd probably be tempted to fit a brace panel across the front to make the sides more rigid and mount the spool and extruder stepper in the vacant space in front of the bed. What is the cylinder in front of the extruder hot end? Is it an optical sensor for Z axis endstop and bed autolevelling? My next machine will be a corexy but I am leaning towards a steel welded frame like my first Prusa Mendel i2 derived machine.

thank you :)
the sensor in front is an inductive sensor. The glass plate has aluminium tape under . It's indeed for autolevel bed.
The main goal of this new design was to have a more easy to assemble kit and more robust. We're happy about that for now. I print now around 80mm/s and moves are at 150mm/s . Even without a panel in front, it's not moving a lot at this speed.
Evolution of this model seem also more easy.. the goal is to have a full range of "quality" , from the really basic kit as you see now ( the cheapest also i think? ) to more sofisticated models with aluminium box, front panel, raspberry pi inside...etc..etc..
we have a lot of place now :)

Any videos of this printer running? Has anyone built one of these?

Hi bret,

There some videos of development version on smartfriendz youtube chanel ( forgot to put the link here.. i will ) . I tihnk no one built it..i just published it :)

How loud is it? Seems like wooden box and hard mounts of the motors would resonate motor sound a lot.

It is loud to me ! i was used with the smartrap to a very low sound .. It will be something to work on , certainly ! holes in wood, mousse inside ?. I'm sure there's good things to do about to reduce sound. I admitt it's not my priority for the start of the model .
after all it's not as loud as that :)

Have you tested small rubber feet on the bottom of the box also to lower the sound ???
So its not a lot of vibrations transplanting to the bottom also and further down the table.
And will you sell it as a complete kit also serge ??