Voron Geared Extruder

by russiancatfood Jan 28, 2015
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Hello, what's the best between this geared extruder and your extruder here (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1413699) not geared?

Because I'd like to make one but I don't know what's the best... or the difference except this is geared

VORON Flex Bowden Extruder

Nether actually. If you want high torque and precision, go to the true and tested VORON Belted extruder.


I see the page you linked here, but it's not much clear your BOM (i.e. the GT2 pulley how many teeth is).
Is there a build instruction or video or pics?

Yup, the manual is at mzbot.us/voron/manual (Skip to Section 6)

And it's 20T pulley

While I like the design from an esthetical viewpoint, I'm afraid that it's not engineered for best durability. Take for example the collars around the 608zz bearings: They hold on to the frame merely by inter-layer bonds, rather than being cushioned by some solid material on same plane.
High marks also for replacing the common spring-on-pins lever tensioning mechanism against a fully printably solution, but again, this seems a more fragile solution, albeit looking nice, and not void of engineering originality. So while I like looking at this design, I hesitate to commit it to my printer :)

ok so i found the printer you designed and i printed out all the parts for it. however, i want to use this extruder but in the direct drive configuration. from what i can tell the voron x-carriage does not accept direct drive, do you know of anyway that i can mount this extruder? t


There's a way to do this but I haven't released the mount yet. It's still in testing phase.

You can follow the GitHub or there's a subreddit dedicated to VORON now: reddit.com/r/voroncorexy

That's where you'll get the fastest updates.


I was using this design printed in PLA. While I absolutely love the design, I must say some parts are not strong enough. Here is a picture of a broken part: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5758571/images/IMG_1268.JPG
One of the springs cracked in the middle.

Other than that this extruder performs much better than other popular extruder I had before!

Mechanical parts out of PLA have their limitations. I printed those arms in ColorFabbXT that that reason.

Nice design, anything similar for standard prusa i3 coupling?

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Hi I've been using this Extruder for a long time now. I had problems printing the springs because of the thin walls on the hex nut but managed to print them in matter control slic3r.. I've been wanting to do a remix of this.. are you able to provide some of the original files and what program did you use to make this? Thanks I'll post some photos

Wow, 4 comments! :)
This was designed in Fusion360.

I'll post the STEP files for it tonight.

Hmm not sure what happened... I just deleted them all bar one. Thanks

Comments deleted.

Maks, I just wanted to let you know this whole setup printed beautifully in PLA. I'm still waiting on some PTFE tubing to arrive so I haven't formally tested it but everything other than that appears to be in good working order. Thanks for the fantastic model!

Glad to hear it. Enjoy!

Hi! Do you have a link to your GitHub?

Sorry, can you help me to understand the two pieces called:

Spring adjustable - Spring Tensioner

They look different in the video (only one piece with 2 parallel holes).

EDIT: OK, now I guess the video and the picture should be different versions.

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Nice work!! Is it possible to get the cad file? Like a step file? Keep up the good work!

Thank you! I will be putting the source files on a GitHub I'm setting up. I'll link it in the description.

Nice design, thanks for sharing! How do you get the set screw in the small gear? Do you have to wind it in backwards from the inside?

Thanks! As the rest of the M3 screws, it uses the M3 threaded insert (This guy: http://bit.ly/1DzbrAs)

The insert has the top and a button (bottom has the slit though it). I inserted a regular M3 bolt into the M3 hole, then used the tweezers to position the insert from inside the 5mm bore so it's facing the outside of the sec screw hole. I then got the bolt to bite into the top 1mm of the insert, just so I can use it for alignment and pushed the insert into the hole using a flat head screwdriver. Once you see it clear the 5mm inner bore, you can drive the M3 bolt all the way through it to get it to expand and bite into the plastic. Then remove the bolt, and insert the M3 setscrew. The rest is pretty self-explanatory.

I'm going to make an assembly video soon.

I'm not sure if I can get these in Canada but I'm sure I'll find something. Any chance you could share the CAD files so I can modify this for my bowden setup and M3 nuts? I'll post back the modded files here for all to use.

Just had those inserts pop the layers apart on one of my other printer parts, so screw them. I'm only gonna use them in I need a tight fit. M3 nut trap all the things!

In that case I'll be printing one of these tomorrow. Nice clean design, quick and simple. Great job!

MSC Direct sells these in Canada. The part number is 240-M3-BR. EZLok's old site lists some others, but not all of them carry these particular ones: http://www.ezlok.com/frameset.html?http://www.ezlok.com/dist.htm

I'm will create an M3 nut version anyway, for more RepRap'ines, but these inserts are so much better than using the nuts, it's worth the struggle to get them.

If I ever get my act together and start putting together the hardware kits, I'll be sure to include Canada on the list of places I ship to :)

So, what improvements does this extruder design have over the existing Greg's Wade's Reloaded design?

  • Easy on the fingers when changing the filament. You can swap filament in about 10 seconds.
  • No metal springs. You can print new ones if they stretch or break
  • No need for the idler stud. I've replaced it with a printed bushing that accepts a regular M3 bolt
  • Most washers are not needed
  • No M3 nuts. Everything M3 is fastened into proper brass inserts
  • 8mm bearings are moved closer together to get them off the hobbed bold threads. This eliminates the play in the bolt
  • Top guide for the filament. I plan on using the TAZ4 style PTFE tube to ensure the filament is guided into the extruder properly
  • Motor is moved closer the the center line for better center of mass (still not perfect)
  • Beefed up upright

I made this thing specifically for the printer I'm designing but it should work with most 50mm offset mounting points. The right bolt is a bit hard to access from the top, but my plan was to use a M4 brass insert and mount from the bottom from the start.

would it be possible to have an extruder body where you can mount the hotend directly without the need of an adapter plate? and for 3mm filament? :)

It's a retainer, not an adapter but I think I know what you mean. You're talking about the 2 bolts mounting method, right? Where you push the hot end in and slide the 2 bolts from the side to hold it?

As for 3mm, I need to update the description. If you forgo the PTFE insert this thing should do 3mm no problem.

exactly. i meant the method where you fix the hotend with t bolts from the side

Done. Use the bolt retainer version of the main block. +9mm to Z height :)

great. Will give it a try :)
Thx very much

gave your extruder a try today... sadly, one of the springy parts broke apart even though i didn't fasten them very much...
seems like it can't handle 3mm filament :(

Bummer, but fixable! :) I can beef them up. Mind posting a pic of the break? Also, what material did you use?

Also, thanks for testing this out! This is invaluable.

damn... threw them away, because I was a little bit pissed ;)
I think they are a bit too short to handle 3mm filament.
Used PLA for printing the parts

Added v2 springs and spring tensioner mounts. They are much beefier and should work better for ABS and PLA now.

I suggest using a longer tensioner screw for the 3mm filament. Something ludicrous like 25mm length will give you a bit more room to play with. I tested these in ABS and used a 3mm drill bit as a stand-in, and they worked ok with 25mm screws.

Never tried PLA for springs. I have an idea for beefing them up. Also the 3mm filament is definitely pushing those springs to the limit. I'm gonna add 3mm-compatible ones tonight.