Platform Leveling Trick

by haqnmaq, published

Platform Leveling Trick by haqnmaq Feb 20, 2011


Liked By

View All

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag.

Print Thing Tag

Thing Statistics

8435Views 65Downloads


This is a derivitive of "Platform Leveling Trick" by ScribbleJ. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6545
This version uses stuff that I had lying around the house. It uses springs out of a mechanical pencil (which fit perfectly over the bolts), to make it easier to level the build platform. It might take a little bit of the stress of the extruder nozzle, to prevent it from breaking your extruder, if it is laying down too much plastic also.


Take apart 4 mechanical pencils, and remove the springs (I have only tried BIC pencils). Place the springs in between the wooden baseplate, and the build platform. Then just tighten, or loosen each bolt seperately to level the platform. :) Enjoy

All Apps

Upgrade this Thing with Thingiverse Apps

No results.

I used the thumbwheels from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:9094http://www.thingiverse.com/thi... to make it even easier. I had a problem when applying new kapton or painters tape, when applying pressure the whole platform lowers and the nuts loose its position in the bolt, so you have to re-level again.

Using the 8 thumbwheels and nuts, I locked each nut against each other across the wood so the bolts won't lower even if the springs allow the HBP to move a little when under pressure :D

HBP Quick Leveler
by Scooter

For the nut on the bottom (bottomest), how does a thumb nut from McMaster-Carr look to anyone else? Thinking about buying some

Thanks for the brilliant idea - I put this in on mine, for the first time in 1.5 years since I got my makerbot cupcake, it actually has a level platform. Bravo!

Put this in this weekend, it works great. A couple of things to note:

1) It's easier to lower the high side by tightening a screw than it is to raise the low side by loosening one.

2) Use a piece of notebook paper to gauge the distance between the hot end and the platform at the back and the front. You should be able to adjust the Z axis to where the paper just scrapes your nozzle, then move the platform and find the same resistance at the opposite corner.

3) This hack changed the PID characteristics of my HBP slightly, I think because it's now further away from the plywood base. You may have to jiggle your PID settings to get it to hold temperature really precisely.

4) With countersunk screws, use a little Kapton to hold them in place while you assemble springs and HBP base. I used 20mm m3 countersunk heads instead of the 16mm length to get a little extra wiggle room.

Ooh this is crunchy. I might have to try it on my countersunk HBP.

You can use the black rubber tubing for the belt drive as well. Cut it very carefully to the thickness desired using the included razor blade.

This has a great springy feel that provides the perfect level of resistance without having to destroy a precious mechanical pencil.

Also if you use a thin segment, you can continue using the belt drive.

Adding springs really was a huge help with getting raftless working well. Using wing nuts makes it even easier to adjust.

I have a couple tips to add. I found that using just three bolts to anchor the HBP was sufficient and made leveling a lot easier. Also, make sure that the bolts slide easily in and out of the wood holes. Reaming the holes slightly by hand with a drill bit helped a lot.

simply brilliant :) thx allot ;)

Anyone know the reason they made the bolt holes on the wooden piece of the ABP not line up with the T-slots on the acrylic sides? In the wiki they say there is a good reason for it, but they never give the reason.... why would they do this.... seems like all it would do is lead to alot of chipped t-slots like a few of my own.

I countersunk my screws into the HBP, so my set (from top to bottom) is:

  • Screw
  • Aluminum surface of the HBP
  • PCB of the HBP
  • Nut
  • Spring
  • Washer
  • Wood surface of the HBP
  • Washer
  • Nut
  • Nut (double-deckered)

It looks encouraging so far, but we'll see how it holds up. I double-deckered the nuts because it can't really tighten them against anything other than t
he pressure of the spring. To accommodate the extra space this creates, I needed longer screws. However, they couldn't be too long or they would hit my "low rider" XY stage. I wound up cutting some screws to 12-13 mm.

I used two really sturdy springs from my hardware store, which I cut into thirds.

this is a great upgrade. i did it a few months ago and it has been working great. glue the nut to the bottom of the platform and all you have to do is go in with an allen wrench to adjust the height

Yeah I flipped it and used countersunk screws to keep the platform obstrution free. Great idea, better than using multiple nuts to hold it up/apart. And springy in case of head crashes. Pencil springs FTW!

Thats a good idea! Thanks

That was quick! And I like it!

Thanks, It was your idea, and a great one at that!!