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GregFrost

Accessible Wade's Extruder

by GregFrost Feb 27, 2011
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Greg's Wade reloaded - Guidler, Tilt Screws, Fishbone Gears

It is awesome!

Is this working with bfb style hotend?

Hello, I have a PEEK rod from http://grrf.degrrf.de. ( https://shop.grrf.de/thermalbarriere-vorgebohrt-peek-p-299.htmlhttps://shop.grrf.de/thermalba... )

I've added the hole mount code for this in your OpenSCAD script, here is the code, if you want to include it, it is made for 3mm holes.

Haven't printed it yet, will do so tonight or tomorrow.

module grrfpeekmount_holes ()
{
extruder_recess_d=16;
extruder_recess_h=10;

// Recess in base

translate([0,0,-1])
cylinder(r=extruder_recess_d/2,h=extruder_recess_h+1);  

rotate(90,[1,0,0])
translate([-extruder_recess_d/2+1.5,3+1.5,-wade_block_depth/2])
cylinder(r=1.5,h=wade_block_depth);

rotate(90,[1,0,0])
translate([+extruder_recess_d/2-1.5,3+1.5,-wade_block_de

pth/2])
cylinder(r=1.5,h=wade_block_depth);

}

Change: The extruder_recess_d should be 16.5.

I've been playing with this for a few days now... I think it definitely has some room for improvemeny.

first, the things I like:

-less plastic

-angled motor mount

-access to the idler nuts.

But I'm having real issues with the filament staying where it needs to be, the combination of only having one bolt on of the idler + the lateral space + the lack of a filament guide allows the filament to travle to the side of the idler bearing at which time extrusion stops. Not sure of the right
solution for it yet, still playing with it.

Im working on a change that has the idler block hinged at the bottom and cliped on with a bulldog/foldback clip at the top (instead of screws/springs). This will mean that I can no longer open access to the hobbing from the idler side, but instead can do so from the top on the motor side, This will mean that the filament guide hole can be restored. It'll also mean very fast filament swaps, and no more difficult to obtain springs!

that would be great! I have been working with it some more... I have a little filament guide in the top as a separate peice that takes care of the feeding problem, but now have issues with changing filament. I can;t follow behind it with anther filament like I have in the past, one the junction between both filaments passes the pinch the bottom one buckles but keeps the hole block while the top one jams along side it, I think this is just a position of the filament hole below the pinch, but there might be something that can be done to improve the chance of it making it in there. BTW, I plan to post a derivative soon with some of these ideas. Also, It would be nice to incorporate the mixture of holes for the standard hot end and bfb hot end as well, like the current ver of the prusa extruder block.

nice work. One question, is this drive compatible with original wade drive wrt hobbed bolt? Can one use the hobbed bolt from Wade's extruder (centre of the "groove" is ~25mm from the bottom edge of the bot's head), or a new bolt needs to be hobbed?

It should work one way or the other. If the gears don't align the standard way, you should be able to put the nut on the gear end and use the appropriate number/thickness of washers under the bolt head to get the hobbing in the right spot.

Comments deleted.

Can I request a change? The bearing protrudes through the idler. Can you "fatten" the depth of the idler by say 7/32 ~ 5.5 mm this would cover the bering entirely. I will then make a one screw tension adjuster and share it here. Also you could add a space for the 4th screw. With a cut out to drop a nut in from the side like the small gear uses. Great design - I printed this out an am working on assembling it now. :)

The hole for the 4th idler screw has been added in the v2 script. I'm not sure what you are requesting regarding the idler. You want the idler to be thicker so that the entire idler bearing is encased? You would then lose the ability to see if the idler is turning (which can be one way to detect filament slip).

Adrian's Geared Extruder Hotend

Are you asking me to add support for mounting that extruder? You will have to tell me the mounting geometry requirements (or better yet, download V2 so you can see how I define modules for the holes for extruders and write some openscad code to define the holes you want).

I humbly offer my redesign of that one. And he deleted that object too :/

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7107http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

i cant figure out for the life of me how to get a hot end attached to this, any photos of one in action? seems like its missing 2 holes on the bottom to hold it in place.

If you read the Instructions: "Depending on your hotend, you may need to add hotend-specific mounting holes. The mount has been designed for a hotend I am working on with my father". Our hotend screws into a plate that mounts to the extruder using the extruder mounting holes.

There are a variety of hotends available, most with different mounting techniques. I dont own any commercial hotends. I am preparing version 2 of this extruder which will allow you to specify your hotend mounting style as a argument to the module that generates the extruder body, but I need people to let me know their hotend mounting requirements to do this.

oops thanks time to bust out the drill :)

Brustruder + grooved hotend mount for mendel

I played with it, and patched the openscad file to add:

  • fix hole depths, so they go right through - some issues with the m8 hole eg.

  • some misc. scad cleans

  • added some parameters for the extruder recess (I have a 10mm peek one)

  • added a double screw/fixing hole for the extruder recess

Patch here: http://www.gnome.org/~michael/greg-access-wade.diffhttp://www.gnome.org/~michael/... under license of your choice :-)

The holes are supposed to have a small membrane over them. This allows skeinforge to bridge straight across the void when printing it rather than trying to do a curve in mid air resulting in a mess. The holes are easily drilled out and the result is a much neater print.

I will take on board the other suggestions regarding limiting some of the holes so that they are no longer than they actually need to be. I have started doing that already for the next version that will have options for hotend mounting holes.

In the process of installing it now on one of my Prusa. There is a list of small issues with it. Is there a Github for it or do you want issues listed here?

Thanks. Issues here is fine, but we caught up in IRC:

  1. would like motor mount slots to extend 1mm further from the idler side.

  2. would like a "groovemount" compatible base: 2mm deeper hole.

Ill post a version 2 here with these changes soon.

grovemount holes as an option would be great.

I really like it! need to test it first a bit, but Im thinking about pulling it to repo :-)

I think it needs standard hotend support included before you should consider including it in your repo.

Some modular code to do that shouldn't be too difficult with the right information right Kliment?

The file "configuration.scad" appears to be missing from the downloads. Great design by the way. mmm curves.

Very nice design, I'm definitely going to try it out. The use of the reprap teardrops on the gear is very classy!

How difficult is it to load? Without feed hole at the top I imagine that starting the filament will require a bit more work.

I think it should be easier to load. Ill find out when I get the hobbed threaded rod. Since you can see the point of the pinch between the idler and the hobbing, it should be easy to poke a bit of filament in there, and you will know that it is lining up properly because you can see it.

Wow that is a nice color combo! I never even finished making my wade because I ran into so many problems. Hopefully this design will fix them for me. Any reason why the small gear is printed upside down?

Printed upside down so that the teeth are printed at the same time as the teeth on the big gear and they have time to cool. If the small gear was printed on its own you would probably have problems with tooth definition because the layers had not cooled sufficiently to be rigid when the next layer was being applied.

heyy, looks good.

If you made the hotend hole at the bottom deeper and added some 3mm bolt hole to hold the hotendend in place it would be better.

great stuff

What kind of hotend do you have? Perhaps I could make this parametric where you choose the hotend mount holes by setting parameters in the scad file.

I've always loved not having to spend an extra hour just to get the thing apart. Also, those are some funky complimentary colors.

Very cool! What type of plastic is that printed with? PLA or ABS? My wife would love the purple.

excellent work! I will try one right away.

I'm wary of leaving one of the motor bolts unattached... I've had the motor heat bend the plastic before, having fewer mount points might make that worse.

One other thing I've though of was using rubber bands for the tensioner instead of springs, but I see you didn't use any springs in your pics.

I would use a spring when attempting to use this extruder. As you can see from the photos, the threaded rod isn't hobbed. I just threw it together for the photos.