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DIYElectronics

CharlStruder For E3D and J-Head on Prusa i3

by DIYElectronics Feb 11, 2015
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Don't use with a universal E3D V6... it doesn't fit. There is ZERO clearance at the filament hole for the black ring to fit. And if you drill it out thinking "oh well I'll just make a hole :D " then you'll ruin your V6... It'll rip the black piece right out the moment you remove it.....

Nice work! Still, there are 2 versions of E3D: V5 and V6. Is this version compatible with V5 or V6? I need this for V5 so badly! Thank you so much

Hi there,

It is indeed compatible for both versions.

Happy Printing!

Can I get the Inventor (IPT) files from you please I want to change the design a little bit to prevent buckling of filament before it enters the hotend.

Thanks

hello, works with flex?

What gear set do I use?

Hi.
Is there a fan mount ( 40mm x 10mm ) i can mount to this extruder?
Thanks.

Can you please publish a E3D V6 bowden version?

WIll this extruder work with flexible filament?

Hi, This extruder design will need a few mods for flexible to work. We are releasing a flexible ready to print extruder soon however.

I really wish you'd publish your scad files. Your nut slots are too small for the nuts from my local hardware store.

Hi GreenFox,

We have designed this extuder using Autodesk Inventor. We are releasing the .step file so you can edit the solid if needed.

where the heck did you find M4 x 75mm bolts? :)

Hi there,

You will most probably have to source these bolts from a dedicated nut/bolt/bearing place. We have a few of them here in South Africa in our industrial business park areas

where the heck did you find M4 x 75mm bolts? :)

Hi, thought you might like this Induction proximity sensor. i designed it according to your extruder http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:943921
Great extruder thanks

Z probe proximity induction sensor

Why don't you just publish the scad files ?

We have designed this extruder using Autodesk inventor and are releasing the .step files

I've tried this, here is my (constructively meant) feedback:

  • Clamp/mount is surprisingly not tight enough for a standard E3D V6
  • Mount does not allow for the bowden adapter that is standard on 1.75mm E3D V6, making it impossible to fit.
    A workaround is to remove the bowden adapter, drill out the filament hole in the extruder, and run a single ptfe tube all the way from the idler into the E3D.
  • Does not handle flexible filaments very well, as the filament entry hole geometry allows for filament buckling.
    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:725082 is better as it has both shorter filament path (to the hotend) and better entry hole geometry.
    The compact extruder has some other downsides though (no easy mounting for fan ducts etc on the left side of the extruder.)
E3D v6 Compact Extruder for i3 Rework

Hi there,

Thank you for your feedback, sorry for the super delayed response. Are you still currently using the compact extruder you have linked? How does it fair with flexible filament?

oysteinkrog, I took your criticisms to heart when I printed this and so for my V6 1.75mm hotend:

  • I printed the 3mm version and drilled out the filament guide hole with a 4.2mm drill bit in order to slide the PTFE tube all the way from the guidler into the heat break of the V6 (removed the bowden adapter of course)
  • Designed and printed a 0.6mm spacer in order fill the gap between the top of the V6 and the bottom of the extruder
  • I wrapped the top of the V6 with Teflon tape (same stuff for plumbing) to tighten the V6 in the extruder slot to keep it from rotating

I decided not to go with the compact extruder (even though it is awesome) partly because I had already printed this one and partly because it drops the hotend closer to the build plate than this guy and I wanted to maximize z height. Also, the same things applies with the compact extruder where one could just drill out the filament guide to fit a PTFE tube.

The advantage of a bigger build height does not count for the Prusa i3 Rework.
I printed this extruder two days ago and wanted to mount it today. Before taking off the old extruder I held the Charlsruder next to it and compared it to the prusa i3 rework frame. I have found out that the build height is even reduced due to the motor mount sitting further in the back and higher. This way the motor would crash into the frame.

So if you use a Prusa i3 Rework you should double check the dimensions!

Hi there,

Are you still using this extruder? We have standard prusa i3's and when mounted correctly onto the x-carriage there are no issues with the stepper motor hitting the frame. How have you attached the extruder assembly?

I wonder if a shim could be created to fit between the x carriage and the extruder to space if forward enough to clear the top of the frame?

What are the measurements for that grove mount? I've printed an E3D version, but it wont fit my new B3 Pico hotend.
https://www.b3innovations.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/B3-Drawings-01.png
Looks like they have a groove of 4.6mm, but E3D is a 6.0mm groove. Are the scad files accessible somewhere?

We have designed this extruder using Autodesk inventor so unfortunately no scad files available. We can however release .step files for the component. Would this aid you?

I like your inductive sensor holder, do you have the model for it?

We will probably be uploading the file soon.

Hello you say on the instructions page "You will also need some gregs wades gears, there are many examples out there.." but wihch is the right size for those gears?

Give these a go: (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:452055) or (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:172514). Both of them should work,

Extruder gears for prusa i3 rework
Extruder gears for prusa i3 rework
by yoyoek1

Could the gears from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18379 be used with this?

Greg's Wade reloaded - Guidler, Tilt Screws, Fishbone Gears

Those should work yes. As long as the gears physically fit you will just need to adjust your extruder's calibration settings to make sure that they are perfect (ie, when you extrude 50 mm, 50mm of filament enters the hotend.)

Could you please post source/original model for this? I really like the design but I need to modify it for 628zz bearings.

Hi Roli. Link the spec of the 628's you are using and we will generate a model for you :)

I've been looking for a suitable geared extruder for my reprap wilson. This looks like it might fit. I'm using an ALU hotend, which basically fits a Jhead mount, though it is a bit shorter perhaps. Would it be possible to mod this so that 925 bearings are used and the internal shaft hole is widened to allow substituting a 5mm bolt with an M8 drive gear for the hobbed bolt? I think these work better for 1.75mm than hobbed bolts Also are the mounting holes for the jhead clamp spaced to allow using them to mount a 30mm fan? That is how I shoehorned in such a fan for my ALUhotend on a direct drive extruder.

Hi scharkalvin, I really like the idea with the 925, 5mm bolt and drive gear. We have some drive gears here we could play with, would you link us to an example of what you are using so we can compare?

I'm not sure if a 30mm fan will fit but that is a good idea. I will check in the week, There is ofc the actual fan hinge mount .

http://3d-industries.myshopify.com/collections/prusa-spares/products/filament-drive-gear-hobb-post-sale or http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/271379388074?lpid=82&chn=ps

are two examples of what I'm talking about.

As far as the 30mm fan, I drilled out two of the mounting holes in the frame of the fan to take the 3mm screws that hold the Jhead in place. The spacing of these on Marty's direct drive design (for the Wilson) was almost EXACTLY the same so the fan fit there nicely. I know doubt it was moving enough air however, and I'm looking for a better way to cool the hot end. I'm now trying out a Hexagon hotend and I've attached a 40mm blower type fan with a small metal bracket attached to the two hot end clamp screws and a tywrap.