Hey! This thing is still a Work in Progress. Files, instructions, and other stuff might change!

BaNanaBotCage™ (cycle water/banana holder)

by francfalco, published

BaNanaBotCage™ (cycle water/banana holder) by francfalco Feb 11, 2015


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48271Views 5700Downloads Found in Sport & Outdoors


I’m only a leisure weekend cyclist but a hard core cycling colleague of mine mentioned she took bananas on her long rides but it was always a pain to carry them. Taped to the frame was a bugger to undo ‘on the go’ and stuffed into back pouches meant they often got squashed during the ride – apparently.

So, in my product designing spare time I came up with this crazy thing. Download the 3d file, print it out, fix to standard bike mounts and you're ready to go!

Water and Banana only a finger tip away!

Designed for small bananas only (need to keep ride weight down)

Print at 0.2 or finer with high infill - needs to be strong (still in beta testing)

No supports or raft needed (this will test your slicer and filament cooling fans)

DISCLAIMER: this is first prototype and hasn't been extensively road tested.
PLEASE DO NOT use in ride situations where an unrestrained bananas could cause injury!

110616 v2 added.
Redesigned to be stronger and smaller - will fit with 150x150x150 build area but with cages to hold larger bananas.

NanaBotCageCP3D_v3.stl added
Thanks to Thingiverse member http://www.thingiverse.com/FourMat/about
for a suggestion to separate banana holders to allow bottle cage to flex for different sizes of water bottles


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Made me laugh! Brilliant!

It's a serious design exercise! ;-)

Thanks for comment!

I tested this on 4 large bananas and it only seems tight enough for the largest banana. the two parts that wrap around the sides of the banana are generally very loose. I would say about 1.3x the diameter of a large banana. I am going to heat up my print and bend these in more so that it will grip on the banana tightly. this will help since you want to ride fast and not have a loose banana popping out ;)

also possible my part has warped a bit since using abs. did any one else notice that the bananas are loose?

It seems UK bananas must be oversized?
I did model using our smaller UK Bananas but it's never going to be a one-size fits all design.
Your suggestion to heat and bend to suit your local banana should work though.

Just wanted to share my experience, I printed the model using the $5 filament from Protoparadigm, the first two times the object detached from the bed before it even hit 1% so I added a brim and increased the bed temp to 62° C, I slowed down the printing speed to 50% and kept the fans going at 100% the whole time, temp for the first layer is 218° C and 200° C for all subsequent ones.

Infill 60%, honeycomb.

I modified the file on Slic3r Prusa Edition to increase density on the base and where the banana cages begin.

It took almost 20 hours to print on my Prusa i3 MK2, but it came almost perfect, a bit of warping at the bottom, but overall it looks really good.


If anyone wants the gcode (and it's allowed to share in here, not sure) I can post it later.

Glad you finally manage to print the file - it is a challenging print and with $5 filament!
20 hrs does sound a bit on the long side but if it works for you...

And hopefully it will last in use?

Thanks for making and please keep me posted



The extremely long time was mainly because of the printing speed, somebody here said he/she had done that, and it kind of guaranteed no warping at all.

I'm testing it next saturday on my long ride, But if feels very sturdy, I'm sure it will hold!

What size water bottle is this supposed to fit? I have a Glasstic water bottle that I use most of the time and it is about 71.6mm in diameter. What would you recommend for a water bottle of that size?

Sized for standard water bottles so your one will fit fine.

Awesome! I can't wait to test these Mario Kart moves in real life!

Comments deleted.

This is an awesome design. I used a Prusa3d I3 MK2 with PLA, and the Prusa Edition of Slic3r, but i had to reduce the default speed to 50% while printing to prevent the warping and lifting on all of the overhanging edges of the curves. Once It was printed I realized just how strong this beast is. The only problem I have is that I use the Camelback Podium bottles and I have to jam them into the cage. They are really hard to remove. So much so that I think it will be too hard to remove while riding. Standard generic bottles like a basic Trek version slide in and out OK. My only suggestion would be to separate the unit between the banana cages to allow the cage to flex just slightly. I think it will be more than strong enough to handle that and give a little forgiveness for different bottle types. I'm trying to load the STL and split it, but am finding it a little difficult to load and edit such a complex mesh. Think you can split it in the original CAD file?

What % did you use for the infill? How long did it take to print at 50%?
Wnate to print this for my ride tomorrow, but I have to leave the office soon, this looks like a several hours print.

I did the 50% and I've had to monkey around with the speed and fan on this to get it to print in ABS without massive curling on the overhangs. This model has some very difficult overhangs, so I've had to slow the print down a lot to make sure it works out without curling and having it detach from the bed from a nozzle strike. It had taken anywhere from 18 to 20 hours to print on the various iterations I've tried.

So the PLA didn't work?

Yes, PLA did work, but it isn't UV stabilized so exposure to the sun will degrade it over time, not good for a bike. But it should be fine for a while. Plenty strong enough.

Didn't know that. Good point to consider. Thanks.

High infill - 50-70% and 0.2 or less layer height to give the overhangs a chance.
From memory i think thats a 5-ish hr print?

Thanks! Did you print at slower speeds also?

Hi FourMat,

v3 added with separate banana holders

I've test printed and it prints perfectly.
But please let me know how it performs 'in the field'!


Hi FourMat,

Happy to help out.
Let me have a look at the model and i'll get a split version uploaded asap



That looks perfect. I will work on getting it printed and let you know how it turns out. Going to try to get it printed in ABS this time, but I'm having curling issues on the thing perimeters on the concave curves at the base. Trying a bunch of different cooling settings. Might take a while to get it tuned in.

I printed version 3 out in ABS and I think this version is going to be perfect. My printer setting still aren't optimal yet as I as getting a lot of curling on the thin layer overhangs on the concave curves, but I was able to get a full print as a proof of concept. Thanks for adding the revision!

I honestly need to make this thing

Love this design, thanks for sharing./

Hey Tincho85,

Appreciate the comments!



Can I get the non-STL (ipt if possible) file?

Hi ONECore,

Only have available the downloadable .stl's, why do you need the other format?

I'm looking to modify this sweet design such that this could hold an epipen instead of bananas. An avid biker friend of mine recently showed allergic reaction to a bee sting but doesn't take the pen because she has no place to put it. I generally design in Inventor, and it doesn't really play all that well with imported STLs.

Thanks, though. If I end up using this, I will of course give credit and link.

Understood - a worthy update to the design!
Would love to help but my 3d software of use is C4D and doesn't really lend itself to exporting usable formats for other software.
Might be easier to start with my basic water bottle cage: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:439490
and add an epipen holder to that?

Good luck and please keep me posted!

Cycle bottle cage

Love this, and think its a great idea. I would like to have one printed out at a local shop, but I cant seem to see what material you've used....

Hi Seruteth,

It can be printed in any standard material - PLA, ABS, Nylon etc. Just make sure its printed with a material that has strength and a bit of flex.

Thanks for the comments and let me know if you get it printed



I'm making one this week

If you make another i would love to purchase !!!!!

Where about in the world are you?
Why not get one 3D printed locally?


This would be a perfect gift for a friend who's turning 50 in a few weeks, but I've tried to print this three times now with the same bad result. The overhangs just in the beginning is just too much. I've never had problems with warping/curling before, but this just doesn't work.

Slicer: S3D
Layer Height: 0.2mm
First Layer Height: 85%
Print speed: 30mm/s, slower at external perimeters

I'm printing with PLA and I've tested both 190 and 210 degrees. At 190 Degrees the warping was even worse.
My fan is turned off for the first layer and then turned on for the second layer and up.
The adhesion to the build plate is good, its just the overhangs that starts to warp.

Here is how it looks: https://s32.postimg.org/f7gtcpgmd/20160707_175955.jpg

This does test the cooling ability of the printer! Might be worth printing faster so the nozzle isnt in one place for longer than necessary. And if a heated bed? Less heat? And some filaments curl more than others - have you tried another?


6 attempts now!... Also tested with Slic3r instead but it wasn't better... NO heat on the bed at all and an extra 20cm fan blowing onto the build plate.

I'll have to try another filament I guess, but I've printed a lot with this and it has handled overhangs before. Not this extreme ones though.

How about using the S3D supports just under those first overhangs?

I think this is where the problem starts, the green lines is my second layer, its a gap between the outlines and the first layer and since the supports doesn't go that far in (I've placed supports below the whole thing now) it has nothing to stick to. The rest of the layers above that looks ok, but at that point its to late.


Slicing with 0.05mm layer height and that would probably solve the issue, but that would take 56 hours to print lol :)


Yep, i see the issues.
A couple of options if using S3D:
As you've done i think?

  1. Add manual supports under that lower extreme overhang, but no other areas.
  2. Print that first problematic section in a fine layer height (0.1 or finer if you think) and then change to the standard layer height for the rest of the model. S3D has options to specify different parameters for different parts of a print - its a great feature!
    We will get this printed!
    Keep me posted

As you can see in the image I posted the supports doesn't reach close enough to the model, so when the printer actually starts to put plastic onto a support, the damage is already made I think. But I'll give it a try.

Printing at 0.1mm now, and I think its started to warp again, but I'll let it go for a few layers more before aborting.
Next text will be with supports, even if its start a minor warping maybe the supports can help and stop the warping if it haven't warped too much before the supports kicks in.

Last attempt for today, new PLA (higher quality), 0.1mm layerheight up to 3mm and then 0.2 the rest with supports!
I will let this one go for a while, sometimes it actually prints fine even though the start of the prints looks crazy.

At the moment it doesn't look to promising :D

You can follow it here if you want :D


Alright so it looked better for a while but it started to warp after a while even though it kept flat longer this time, and after a while it kicked the print loose from the bed. I will stop testing now and print some other stuff that I have in line, will probably try again later :) Thanks for your support so far!

There is a 'last resort' technique i sometimes use (to various degrees of success), but it may be worth a shot if all else fails?

  1. Get yourself a very thin bladed flat knife or strip of metal
  2. Keep close watch on the print and as soon as you see the layer begin to start curling (but wait for the nozzle to move away) 'smooth' the curling layer flat with the blade of the knife (do it immediately the nozzle has moved away but before the layer has a chance to fully cool). The metal blade draws the heat from the just-laid filament and immediate solidifies the layer. That then give the following layers a flat(er) surface to build on and also limits the nozzle hitting the curled layer. You may need to do that at various levels during the print and the surface quality will suffer at those points, but the technique has saved me from aborting a print on various occasions.
    But please be careful to avoid any contact with the nozzle!!

Good luck!

Comments deleted.

As you can cost the impression

A must for every 9GAGer. 5/7

Where has this been all my life. Thank you!

All good things come to those who wait!
You're welcome!

Beautiful design. Thanks for sharing. What program did you use for this design?

Designed in Maxon C4D, whilst not the best software for mechanical projects, it does have lots of ability for more organic, fluid designs.

Thanks for comments!

When i saw this, i thought, This is such a great idea xD
Just love it.

Too bad when I shove this into cura, it won't slice it for my printer as its just a little be bigger then 150x150x150mm =/ which is what my printer can print.

Any future modifications that could shrink the size down a little?

I may be able to help you!
I'm test printing a v2 as we speak - stronger and with larger banana holders. If that prints okay, i'll upload shortly.
V2 will fit within your build area.

Watch this space


Sounds great, thanks! and keep up the great work!

Comments deleted.

you should try adding some pre-made supports so the slicer doesn't have to work so hard

I try to design projects without the need for supports and this one doesnt need any if the printer and filament cooling is set up correctly. Its also pretty easy geometry for most slicers to slice. I would definitely recommend not to just add slicer supports as the norm. Try to get the correct combination of set up, filament and slicer so supports arent needed. It'll save print time and wasted filament.

Has anyone ever told you that you're a genius? If not, allow me to be the first.
("unrestrained bananas" LOL)

Hey SnakeGuy123,

Wow! thanks for the comments.
Actually, someone mentioned that in the very first comment, but i won't mind it said again - if only it were true!

And if you are thinking of printing this one - i would suggest you hold off for a while.
I'm updating the design to allow for a larger banana and some strengthening detailing - i'll post that shortly.


Okay, ill do that. :)

I'm having the hardest time printing this with PETG. Layer height is 0.2mm, speed 35 mm/s, fan at 100% to help with the overhangs and temp as low as 220C and as high as 245C. I'm using a wanhao i3.

The overhangs are the biggest problems.

Any tips?

Hey fiz1,

Sorry you're having overhang issues - this is a real test of the filament cooling capabilities of a printer!

I only ever use PLA (have you tried other materials?) on either MB Rep 2 or my UM2 - both print the overhangs okay. I've never used PETG, but a quick read up and whilst it doesn't seem to suffer from the ABS warping/shrinking issues, it does need a high print temp in use - 230-250C. Those higher printing temps are going to take a lot of filament cooling to achieve those overhangs i would have thought?

So if you have the fans at 100%, then it may be worth upping the print speed to keep the nozzle moving and from heating up one layer for too long? I would try a small test area of the model if your slicer allows you to crop into the model.

Which slicer are you using?
I've used:
Makerware - good results
S3D - good results
Cura - can struggle a bit

Can you send me pictures please - [email protected]

Keep me posted



"PLEASE DO NOT use in ride situations where an unrestrained bananas could cause injury!"

I can't have been the only person who immediatly thought, Mario Kart!

Great design btw, can't wait to print a few for RAGBRAI this year!

I love this thing! currently printing a second one. it's just a little pitty that the bananas must be really tiny to fit in.

Purposefully designed only for small bananas - keeps ride weight down!
Thanks for comments and making!

understand it from the designer/maker as well as the weight concerned cyclist perspective ;) I guess I have to talk to the supermarkets here to get non-gigantic banans :D

Print as per my instructions...

0.2mm, no raft or supports and keep your filament cooling fans on 100% to help with the overhangs.

High infill will help too.

How do your print this?

You forcefully extracted that word directly from my mouth.