Update - In the _v2 large corner pieces that I just uploaded, I removed the overhang that was causing the captured pieces to stick together in some prints. I have test printed another cube and the new _v2 pieces work great. I did have to tap the bottom of two of the large corners lightly with a pair of pliers to pop the middle loose. It took much less effort than before and I think they would have stayed separate if I had turned the temp down a little more during the print. The gold pictures are of the new one. I also realized that the one corner makes a nice little stand!
I was getting ready to print another copy of my Amazing Gyroscopic Cube Gears and got to thinking that while it is very cool that it is able to incorporate all of the motions it has, it is actually pretty plain. I incorporated a ton of hearts in many different ways when I created the Fantastical Gyroscopic Heart gears, but I wanted to something more artistic. 3D printing is after all a great platform for art work. So, I started thinking about what kind of styling really fit with it and immediately thought that a steampunk style would be perfect!
Given that the cube gears is the center piece of the Amazing Gyroscopic Cube Gears (I really need to think of shorter names) I decided to start there and got to work.
All eight of the corners and even the center piece have been steampunked. For the large gears, I wanted to add another level, so I modified them to print as two captured parts where the middle is tied to the cube center while the outside moves. This allowed me to add some interesting aspects. I felt that it wouldn't have the full effect without being painted to fit the style, so I went to the store and got an assortment of metallic acrylic paints and a fine point paint brush. I think that it turned out great!
Here's a video of it:
Update - I added a couple of pictures of the progress I have made on the Steampunk gyroscopic cube gears I designed this cube for. The small and large rings and gears are complete and turning well. They are unpainted in the picture though. I am working on the uprights now.
Per a request, I added some reference pictures for the assembly with notes. The description below provides better detail though.
The v2 large corners function the same and are easier to print than the originals, so I removed the original large corners from the files.
Print all of the parts. It is designed to print Without support. If you use support, separate parts will get fused together. There are some overhangs and some minor bridges. Nothing too bad. I recommend setting your printer to print outlines from inside to outside since that helps with overhangs.
I printed it in PLA .2 mm layers at 100mm/sec with a fan blowing on the print around my nozzle.
There are many small details in these prints that can be delicate. make sure that you are careful to handle them by the bigger parts. Also keep in mind that if you drop it, it will break.
The large corners are two parts with one captured within the other. The tolerances are tight, so you may need to break them loose if they stick to each other. After trying different things, I found that it works best to hold the large corner in one hand and tap the center lightly until it breaks loose. I used a pair of pliers for this.
I recommend lubricating it before assembling. If you have read any of my instructions for other moving prints, you will notice a trend. I always recommend CRC Heavy Duty Silicone spray. There is a reason for this. It really works very well. Buy one can and it will last forever because you need very little.
Spray CRC Heavy Duty Silicone spray on all moving contacts and let it dry for a few hours before assembly. After assembling a part and making sure that it moves well, I will usually spray it some more by sticking the spray straw into cracks and then turn the pieces to work it in. Then I let it dry overnight. When it is wet, it can actually stick and even stop turning, so don't force it. Let it dry and be AMAZED when it moves so freely after it dries.
When assembling, Take care to line up the pieces correctly. Some of these pieces are fragile and consequently hard to get connected. The last thing that you want is to have to remove a piece because it was not lined up.
I find that it helps to give the pins a gentle squeeze with a pair of pliers first to help break them in.
I inserted the pins in the large pieces first and connected them to the center piece. Large pieces 1 and 4 are not that bad to get connected. Piece 2 is not bad either. Just be careful not to break off the chimney pipe. Piece 3 was tricky. I pushed in the pin as far as I felt safe doing it. Then I found that it worked best if I stuck a skinny screwdriver through the bars to hold against the bottom. This allowed me to provide enough force to push the pin into the cube center.
After you add the large corners, put on the small corners, being careful to line each one up properly. Make sure that everything is lubed and you are done!
Next show it to everyone and amaze them with what you can create with your 3D printer!!!
I am now working on the parts for a steampunk version of the Amazing Gyroscopic Cube Gears. Stay tuned!