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Majoras Mask HD model with Woodgrain

by WeeMadSausage, published

Majoras Mask HD model with Woodgrain by WeeMadSausage Feb 17, 2015
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Summary

This is a small scale version of the majoras mask made by ferreusveritas, i increased the wall thickness and added an area at the back so it can be made into a keychain, lapel pin or hang from a string.

i also designed a base to go with the mask.

most of the work was spent cutting the woodgrain and painting once the print was done.
EDIT
i have made a version of the model with the woodgrain, it is a very high resolution model, right now its available at shapeways, http://www.shapeways.com/product/5GKBXY3Y4/majora-s-mask-hd-model-with-woodgrain-detail

EDIT
the wood grain model is now available for download

Instructions

Print the file facing upward with support.
i used simplify3D and uploaded the .factory file for my profile for use on a flashforge creator. i set the layer height to 0.1mm, rectilinear infill at 30%, 3 perimeters, 3 solid bottom layers and 5 solid top layers. support was at 50% density.

the thick top layers should allow you to carve the wood grain to a good depth without exposing the infill.

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Nice!
I think it will be a larger one later, I did a really small one now.

Muy buena me encanta ! Ya la he impreso y pintado!

Sube una photo! la quiero ver

It is models like these that make me excited to own a 3d printer. Exquisite work! My girlfriend is much more artistically skilled thank I am, so we will see how she does with painting the model.

I was curious how you achieved the grain of wood and weathered look on the model? I want to get the same effect on a project Im working on. Is there trick to doing it?

Mar 28, 2016 - Modified Mar 28, 2016
WeeMadSausage - in reply to ocarinakid

the woodgrain i made in z-brush, then i used a scalpel to increase the sharpness of the grain after polishing. the weathered look is done by painting a base colour (say red) then using thin washes of black and brown and whiping off the excess so it only stains the depest areas, its best done in thin layers and built it up slowly. i then use a dry bush with a lighter colour than the base to add highlights in some areas. these techniques are used in warhammer figurines so look up some tutorials on that in youtube, the key is to never have a consistent solid colour, i build up my base layer with darker and lighter shades of the same colour, as paint never ages evenly.

How much do you sell one real size?

would love to print this with wood PLA but my Makerbot Replication (5th ed) is giving me constant filament jam errors even though there is obviously no jam and the filament is extruding fine. Does anyone have any suggestions?

retraction speed 25 mm/s
retraction distance 1.3mm
temp 180C

Thanks.

Have you tried bumping up the temp of the PLA? I typically like to run around 200C to 210C with my HICTOP Prusa i3 and I haven't had too many issues doing that. I did a quick search on the Makerbot Replicator (5th ed) and it appears it has some sort of smart extruder attached to it, correct? One of the comment on the blog post below stated jam errors, "were generally caused by the plate not being level correctly." How far into the print will you go before it throws the error?

Source: http://www.makerbot.com/blog/2014/09/29/makerbot-replicator-smart-extruder-designed-future-mind

everything else is printing fine, i even tried increasing the temp to 245C and its still jamming in the first seconds

Jamming within the first seconds leads me to believe your extruder head might be too close to the print bed, prevent the plastic from coming out of the nozzle, which might be causing the jamming. Double check that your bed is nice and level using a sheet of paper. You should have a small "grab" feeling when sliding under the nozzle and bed, but not so tight that its hard to push/pull the paper under the nozzle. If you have any other issues, give me a PM since we are kind of going off topic.

Mar 1, 2016 - Modified Mar 1, 2016
WeeMadSausage - in reply to Gam3r2Xtreme

Actually, I don't mind if you continue your discussion here, your troubleshooting could help someone else. @Mrchrism53k let us know how it turns out! and perhaps what you did to solve the issue.
Someone else printed one of these masks in a woodfill type material a while ago, he used easywood coconut; http://www.thingiverse.com/make:134142
he claims it easier to use, i know changing material is not a solution but maybe there are some answeres in that avenue.

Majoras Mask HD model with Woodgrain
by edddy

I wanted to know how much this weighs, I am doing some research and need to know if I ever am really going to get a 3d printer. its mainly for pricing.

Jan 27, 2016 - Modified Jan 27, 2016
WeeMadSausage - in reply to Thirteenison

ok thats an odd one, the mask weighs 10g, the support to print it was around 5g, so a total of 15g in printed material, i used formfutura easyfill ABS which costs £22 for 750g, so the total cost per mask was around £0.44, you can cut costs by designing so you do not need support.
hope this helps :)

Killer paint job!!!

i have a metal id thing that id love to put this on put the metal is too think for the hole in the back can u put a loop at the top or towards the back for something like i have

This is very good!

Now if only someone would add finer wood grain to the life sized mask!

lol

WOW, fantastic model you have there! I wonder if it would be possible to print this at full scale.

nice doomsday mask.

Your pain work is amazing! What kind of paint are you using? Is it all hand painted, airbrushing of a combination of both?

Aug 1, 2015 - Modified Aug 1, 2015
WeeMadSausage - in reply to Traction

Thanks!, It's all hand painted, I used warhammer acrylic paint as that is what I had, for the glow fade on the eyes i mixed yellow and red on a surface and just kept remixing the colour as i got closer to the centre of the eye each time adding more yellow. i also never kept one consistent colour, but mixed it lighter or darker to give depth. finally to finish i diluted black paint and roughly brushed it in and wiped it off with cloth, to accentuate the textures and give it a more weathered look. i also added highlights with a fine bush. To protect it, I coated the whole thing with a matt acrylic archival spray. the painting process is simple, it just takes time to work on all the layers of paint. The techniques i used are the same you would use to paint warhammer figurines.

saw it on 9gag, great model!!

This is fantastic work! Have you considered making it thinner for printing at full size?

That finish is a very awesome. And also of course the design itself.
You're a true artist

will you be making the wood grain one available soon? Very eager to print it!

Thanks for reminding me, I just uploaded the file, post a picture when you print it! enjoy.

That looks incredible. Well done sir.

Feb 17, 2015 - Modified Feb 17, 2015

Thanks! your model was really fun to work with, it prints really well even at this scale

wait, is the "wood textured" mask not in the stl? :c

sorry i made that by hand, the resolution of the machine would have struggled to make it.

ill upload a new version with the texture soon, i just have to make it in Zbrush.

how did you make it by hand :0

I used a scalpel and made cuts into the plastic, i also dragged the tip sideways over the cut to make it wider. after that i used a brass wire brush to soften and clean the cuts. the whole process takes a few hours as you build up layers of cuts and it starts looking like wood. Its best to do it bit by bit, dont try to got for large cuts straight away, join small ones together.

sorry i made that by hand, the resolution of the machine would have struggled to make it

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