Ultimaker 2 temperature torture calibration test

by bjorntm, published

Ultimaker 2 temperature torture calibration test by bjorntm Feb 24, 2015
8 Share
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Order This Printed View All Apps


Liked By

View All

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag.

Print Thing Tag

Thing Statistics

63497Views 10963Downloads Found in 3D Printing Tests


If you print this test, please comment below with what material and gcode you used and what the best temperature was.

3 + 3 different GCODE files for Ultimaker 2 made with the default CURA settings and temperature range from 220C tot 190C in steps of 5C.

Printing features:
Straight wall
Overhang (circular)
Overhang (45 degrees)
Curved surface
Flat surface
Hole (for small bridge test)
Rounded corner

Fast Print (FP): 0H45, 0.15mm layers
Normal Print (NP): 2H01, 0.10mm layers
High Quality (HQ): 3H21, 0.06mm layers

I left the buildplate on 60C because the base was warping with the buildplate heating off. I also included files where the buildplate temperature is set to 0. This is obviously more accurate for the test, but well, if the base of the print comes loose you sort of have nothing. You can try for yourself.

If you want to make the gcode yourself or for a different printer, you'll have to insert the temperature commands yourself at the appropriate layer.

The base is 2mm high, the rest is 10mm per piece.


Set bed temp to 0:
M140 S0

Set nozzle temperature:
M104 S200
(where 200 is the temperature).



Load the gcode in your UM 2 to start the test. Look at the results and decide what temperature works best for your material.
Different layer heights result in different extrusion rates, so optimal temperatures might be different for the differtent cura print presets.
If you want to print using Cura Fast Print, you need to do the fast print test.

More from 3D Printing Tests

view more

All Apps

Auto-magically prepare your 3D models for 3D printing. A cloud based 3D models Preparing and Healing solution for 3D Printing, MakePrintable provides features for model repairing, wall thickness...

App Info Launch App

Kiri:Moto is an integrated cloud-based slicer and tool-path generator for 3D Printing, CAM / CNC and Laser cutting. *** 3D printing mode provides model slicing and GCode output using built-in...

App Info Launch App
KiriMoto Thing App

With 3D Slash, you can edit 3d models like a stonecutter. A unique interface: as fun as a building game! The perfect tool for non-designers and children to create in 3D.

App Info Launch App

Print through a distributed network of 3D printing enthusiasts from across the US, at a fraction of the cost of the competitors. We want to change the world for the better through technology, an...

App Info Launch App

Quickly Scale, Mirror or Cut your 3D Models

App Info Launch App

Treatstock is an online platform that offers decentralized manufacturing services such as 3D printing and CNC machining for business-to-business and business-to-consumer sales all over the world. W...

App Info Launch App

3D print your favourite design with NinjaPrototype, a professional 3D manufacture with consistent quality and speed.

App Info Launch App

Can I use this with an Olsson Block upgrade?


Can I use this on my Printrbot Simple Metal? Please.... :)

Hi! Thanks for thoose fantastic gcodes. They're very helpfull.
In the fast print, which speeds are you using? Thanks

If I download the STL how do I set different temperatures in cure?

Did you read the description?

Just prepare the .gcode file in cura without setting the temperature. Then open the .gcode in a texteditor and insert the temperature commands at the appropriate places (see description for details). If you have an ultimaker 2, the provided gcode in the downloads here already has the temperature settings.

THX for sharing witch us!
Should I print this with or without cooling?

You should print this how you would normally print, only varying the temperatures.

thx! and how much infill should i use! makes this a different to the results?

Same answer as before ;)
It's a test to see differences in print quality when changing (only) the temperature. Of course you should use cooling, and infill. Well if you normally print with 20% you can print this one with 20% as well. That doesn't really influence the test.

Hi, I print one of this to test the overhangs but i have allways the same problem. When printing, the layers lift up and the final result is an unformed overhang. Could someone help me? What can i do to solved this? Thanks!!

Poor cooling, temperature to high, bad printer.. Could be so many things. This is not the right place for support on your actual print though.

https://www.google.nl/search?q=3d+print+overhangs should help ;)

Printed one to see what temp PETG worked best at on my Maker Select. I had been printing at 250, and your temp tower showed me that it prints better at 230. I tried it from 250 down to 220. The overhangs really helped. Thanks!

I made 2 of these with new filament, and I cant see any difference from a range of 200 to 230 degrees. What am I suppose to be looking for?

je les modifié en rajoutant un mur fin et des ponts


calibre température
by gardien

Nice, this is exactly what I needed to test some new filaments I haven't gotten around to using yet. Now I can do this for all of them and keep track of the preferred settings per manufacture / filament. It's too bad their isn't a online database / spreadsheet that outlines the preferred settings based on the filament (brand / color / type) and printer (default setup and maybe custom hot-ends as well). Oh well, I can dream ;-)

I printed in Inland Blue PLA. 205C and 215C both looked really good, the overhang was a bit wonky at 210C, and the overhang at 220C looked really bad (not sure if filament was just stuck on my hotend and came down or if it was the print itself...). Interlayer adhesion seemed to suffer at 190C to 200C, and the stand at the bottom popped off from the rest of the print pretty easily.

Overall, 215C seems to be the best with Inland Blue PLA filament but I'll print it again to double check and see if the overhang problems and curling on them changes at all.

It would be really nice if the temperatures were embossed :)

Where can I set the print speed in the GCODE? Is it possible to adjust the outer shell speed? I guess these questions open up the whole "can you implement the whole Cura settings" thing, sorry about that :) I guess I could possibly generate my own by using the tweakAtZ plugin with 12mm, 22, 32, 42, 52 and 62?

Finally, I'm guessing you went hot to cold because 220 is more likely to work with everything that 190 is?


Yeah I wanted the temperatures embossed, but the program I used did not have text possibilities (damn.. Sketchup from now on!).

I don't know about print speed. I think in gcode there is no actual distinction for shell layer. It's probably cura that decides where to set the speed change gcodes. For more info on gcode look here.
I would indeed suggest to just make the gcode with your own cura (or other) settings and then adding the gcode for temperature changes.You can use tweakAtZ, but I did it manually since that is actually less work and you know for sure the code is there on the right place.

Indeed I took the hot to cold approach since I was expecting more problems on lower temperatures. Obviously since there is no temp embossed (see now i've turned that in a feature :P) you can simply change the temperatures yourself if needed.

If you print it please post it :)

First result:

Colorfabb Standard white, Cura Normal Print with heated bed. Best result was at 220C.