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timmiclark

Drogerdy 2.0

by timmiclark Feb 27, 2015
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Hallo Past das Kamera Modul hier auch?

No sorry - this model is no longer under development.

Before you comment - please be aware - I have retired this design!

This one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1906831 - has taken its place.

MR - 4 : Robotic Tank

How about a suspansion ?

Not really sure if it is an option for something of this small size that is 3D printed. I have been thinking about it, but am unsure how to overcome some issues.

Hello.
I'm really sorry for my late.
Thank you for yout answer.
I will try to make my 3D tank with a suspension.
In fact, I saw a video who shows the Chrystie Suspension, it was very helpful.
Now I must modeling the tank and print it.

Wow this is really a great design!
I ask again, like another user, please is there any way to get the CAD files? I normally work with solidworks so it would be great to import them. It´s because i really like the traction idea but i want to modify some details like the main chasis. It will be for an android phone controled mini-tank.

Thanks and regards!
Raphael M. Trautmann

Is there any chance, to get the CAD Files ? I want to change the gearmotors that i can use brushless gimbal Motors (for silence driving)

I want to build an FPV Rover out of it and so it´s easyier to change erverything like i need it :-)

Thanks
Moe

Hi Moe,

It is not my intention to do this until I am totally happy with the design ..... unfortunately this bot has taken a back seat to the smaller one (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:652851) which has proven far more popular amongst my students ..... so it will be quite some time.

As mosfet has said, there is nothing to stop you from converting the STL files to a solid in FreeCad (which is the software I used to design it in the first place.

By the way - the smaller one already has an FPV variation linked to it.

Drogerdy - Raspberry Pi Controlled Tank Bot

Hi.

It is quite easy to import STL's into FreeCad and convert into solids. Myself I'm remixing bot's body to fit some 18650 batteries and have mounts for electronic boards.

Here you have tutorial how to import STL into FreeCad and convert into solid:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=avVNfIswkMU

Could you please clarify the number of track links?
In description there is 31 and 32 in the picture.

I'm in progress printing your model and I got stucked with the tracks.
I'm not using printed pins, because I don't want to wait so long for something that can be replaced with hardware store dust-cheap part.
For track pin I use M4x40 screw.

First problem was, that after assembly, It does not fit on the main cog. There always was at least one link which does not wanted to fit with the tooth. I elarged the inner hole of the track link with 4,5mm drill. With this mod, there was some slack and main cog matched perfectly with the track links. Unfortunately, after complete assembly, there was no slack and it was extremely hard to turn.

What can be wrong? Could you please measure your main cog with a caliper? Maybe there's something with my printig process and the scale is not matched.
You used 4mm pin, so I shall be no difference when using M4 screw.

Hi mosfet,

I just noticed this http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:826116

This guy also did not like the idea of printed pins and has modded it to fit his smaller printer. Maybe he might be able to suggest something that I have not.

Tim

Track Bot - Dave's Cut
by DaveGun

Hi Mosfet,

I run two different printers (an Up! Mini and a Flashforge Dreamer) - With the Up! Mini I get tracks that work almost every time. With the Flashforge I had some trouble. The Flashforge seemed to have trouble printing the holes perfectly round and left some crud inside them, while the Up! Mini did it really well, but filled the holes with support, which was a pain to clean out.

Changing the slicing software on the Flashforge made significant difference .... I now use simplify3D.

The tracks need to go on a bit loose. This has not been an issue with the printed pins as they seem to come out at slightly less than 4mm (3.8mm on average). I might also suggest that the thread on the M4x40 screw could cause issues.

When I measure my cogs with a calliper I get readings from 59.6 - 59.9, so once again my printers seem to print slightly smaller than the actual .

Hi Mosfet,

I run two different printers (an Up! Mini and a Flashforge Dreamer) - With the Up! Mini I get tracks that work almost every time. With the Flashforge I had some trouble. The Flashforge seemed to have trouble printing the holes perfectly round and left some crud inside them, while the Up! Mini did it really well, but filled the holes with support, which was a pain to clean out.

Changing the slicing software on the Flashforge made significant difference .... I now use simplify3D.

The tracks need to go on a bit loose. This has not been an issue with the printed pins as they seem to come out at slightly less than 4mm (3.8mm on average). I might also suggest that the thread on the M4x40 screw could cause issues.

When I measure my cogs with a calliper I get readings from 59.6 - 59.9, so once again my printers seem to print slightly smaller than the actual .

Thanks for your time and replay. I managed to make my track turning smooth. I know that it won't have big value, because every printer is slightly different, however I'll share it here:

  • As I mentioned, I used M4x40 bolts instead of printed pins.
  • Internal (looser) section of the track link has been drilled with 4,5mm drill.
  • Every 10 links (11-11-10 for being precise) i put M3 bolt to have some more loose. I intent to replace theese M3 with M3,5 or M4 while wearing out of the track.
  • I used a little of silicon lube spray ("Sonax" Silcon Spray) not much, just few drops spread over the outer frame did the magic!
    Tracks are moving smooth and easy. When you turn them around, they are still turning a while, when you take your hand away.

I'm attempting to print another 'tack module'. I'll share my result when I'll have nice M3x45 bolts, because these I'm using now are to long and the look is not so great.

Hi Mosfet,

Thanks for the feedback - I actually had a little trouble with one of my tracks yesterday - even though it was the same printer.

By the way - I am giving a presentation next week on how I use these prints for education. Would be an interesting side note to tell the story of who around the world is using these prints. Would you mind telling me where you are?

Tim

I saw you posted the link, but does that mean it requires casings with dual axles?
Would it work with single axle cases only, both types, or did you not see those were dual axle? I know I've mistakenly ordered a dual axle not seeing the second in the image. Nice invent btw! Thanks! :D

The motors I used for this are some that I had a lot of. The giy who was here before me bought a whole heap of laser-cut robot kits and these motors were with them. They are designed to have a wheel on one side and some sort of photo-gate on the other.

Would you mind posting a link to the motor / gearbox assembly that you used?
Thank you.

The link is in the instructions:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/5pcs-Lot-TT-Motor-Gear-Motor-for-ARDUINO-Smart-Car-Robot-/181628767023?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item2a49eb0b2f

I just searched "Robot Motor" on EBay and heaps come up. I run them at 9Volts Max (pref 7.2V)- at 12 volts, if the tracks get stuck, the motor will have enough torque to chew out its own spindle.

Been looking for this type of bot to print thanks will post again after building

Look forward to see how you go at printing it!