A602 3D Printer Firmware (prusa i3)

by soupaboy, published

A602 3D Printer Firmware (prusa i3) by soupaboy Mar 2, 2015
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After fighting with the company to release this file to me and multiple legal threats they finally did (after 7 weeks) so to make sure you guys don't have to go through this I'm uploading it straight here for you to download


unzip the file and upload it to your controller board through Arduino software.

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Hi There

I presume this is something I will need as I own this very printer.. although I have just finished building it (They make it difficult leaving the important steps out the video they have and in pdf files so if you follow the video you have to disassemble bits when you read the pdfs!!)

I have plugged my printer into the power socket and fired it up, the lcd flickers from blue to nothing until you twist the knob and then you get the lcd to stay blue with no text or anything on it? odd! is this what the firmware is for?

Also I plug it into my mac and receive no response :-/ the lcd inside the box lights up red and the lcd screen turns on (to blue.. thats it) even with the power turned off.

All I have is the fans on the extruder and pcu whirring away and the lcd flickering until I adjust the dial.. nothing else works. I expected the motors to kick into life and the print head 'home' to the starting point but nothing.

Completely new to 3d printing and thought this would be a great starting point but its giving me lots of headaches :-( what am I missing? how do I flash it to get it up and working?

Thankyou for your time


No the firmware is just for updating, double check you ribbon cables are plugged in properly, you may have them swapped or reversed


Thankyou for this, if I can get the LCD working properly I might be able to use that to work out to get it working seen as the app they provide crashes straight away on startup and my mac does not recognise the printer being there despite downloading their driver software! headache


Sorry, not sure how to help you on the Mac side. However you can download Slic3r and Repetier host.

Not sure how good those are for Macs but the stuff they gave is freeware I quickly upgraded to more recent software editions

Hi there

Thankyou for your help! I downloaded repetier host and managed to connect to my printer.

I know need to work out why the motors seem so dull and the head/board and y axis barely move.. Make alot of noise as if I have a jack hammer and the axis move if I give them a little turn for a bit and then stop.. Extruder works fine! Have gooey filament on my print bed.

It's a start I guess.

Thank you very much..

Your work prevented my printer becoming a brick

Thanks for your work.

I searched the original marlin version and apply the differences: https://github.com/sanpii/marlin/tree/a602-orig

The raw patch is here: https://gist.github.com/sanpii/490d69c43efbfc92b83d

I also rebase the modifications on top of the current 1.0.x version: https://github.com/sanpii/marlin/tree/a602

I just made on print but it’s works better than the original firmware.

I'm now using #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {98.5221,98.5221,400,100}.

The X and Y were calculated for (16 tooth pulley MXL belt, 1.8 stepper). Z was calculated for TR8x8 threaded rod.

E is calculated for MK8 all metal extruder which I'm now using.

All measurements have been checked and confirmed with a with a 100mm calibration print using digital vernier callipers.

I'm about to buy 2 of these because I wanna add to my printing capabilities. Would you say this is a good printer? Or should I stick with MakerFarm?

i don't really use this printer heavily so i would not be able to help you there. i can say that i am enjoying this printer but only after i made 15+ changes to it, including the:, hot-end, cold end, z axis, timing belts, controller board and modified the frame. i would recommend you try a better company since when i had issues they told me it was not their problem.

Good Luck with it all.

I changed or added: PSU (original failed after 2 weeks), fan shrouds, feet, heat shield, power cover, end stop tweaks (Y and Z), new all metal extruder, glass bed. Now I just need to add belt tensioners... and replace the fans which are starting to fail.

Why did you have to do all that? I get great prints but generally just PLA and PETG+ all of my makes in my profile uses this printer pretty much stock.

Only reason I wanted to change the belt was a mistake I had made in assembling the printer.

i could not get it to print, it was rather bad, one motor was dead and another was not smooth, the hot-end had to be changed when i moved to Bowden since it would not work and doing that change allows me to print at much higher speeds and have greater acceleration. the timing belts were not brilliant as thy stretched ALOT when i got them so the steps i was putting in was giving varied results in actual distance moved. And the ramps 1.4 is a superior and better built board since the one they sent me did not have working terminals for some reason. and a motor driver was dead...basically the printer was not great when i got it and the company refused to help but hey, open source right? i got it fixed up and working

Hello soupaboy,

My 3d printer is having problems to move the X axis, while other axis move flawless... i have no idea what it could be, it seems to be dead.. i was even thinking about exchanging the motherboard for a 1.4 ramps, but before I do this I need to be sure if the problem is the motherboard or me

I am using the marlin configuration.h you uploaded here, i am using the repetier host and all physical connections are double checked.

would you know what it could be happening in my situation?


some people have had issues with wires being reversed on the stepper motor,(often the two middle wires) how is it not acting the way you expect? does it jutter or does it not move at all?

it doesn't moove at all... in the very first atempt in the first second it make a lil noise indicating that will work, but then nothing happens besides a 'piiiii' sound of it.

it worked once, but then i turned off and when i turned back on didn't worked anymore....

you advise me to try changing the cables before i try to change the board?

hmm, have you tried swapping two motor wires around to see if it is an issue with the motor or if it is the board you are using? That will help eliminate you spending money on things you do not need :)

Comments deleted.

Wow how odd, everything it my kit worked perfect, though I have thought about changing boards so I could start to modify things as I couldn't find any board specific info.

Guess it's good to hear from different people clear there is a large swing in quality on these printers. Some of your issues sound like they stem from trying to run it fast. My biggest issue with speed is how fast I can extrude. My extruder starts slipping on the filiment if I go much above 45mm/s

yeah, With the Bowden feed you have a much higher torque (if you use the Greg's design) but the best mod i have done is the inductive proximity sensor. its amazing. contactless auto bed levelling. It takes 9 points on the bed and though out the print it automatically adjusts the z screws to make sure the first layer is PERFECT and it doesn't take to long to set up. probably around 3 hours MAX

this is the cold end i am using: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:60531

A bowden geared extruder for Rostock - based on Gregs
by RichRap

Sweet I wanted to add auto bed leveling to mine, have to upgrade the electronics to do it probably? Do you have a link on setting up the auto leveling?

it will work with the stock board, so no worries there. All you need is this:


and use this video to help:

i can upload the design i used to mount it but it is literally just an "L" shape to hold the sensor to my bowden design. so it may not be any good for you to use unless you use my design.

I'm sure you can find a way to mount it tho

Thanks I ordered the part :D

For anyone who might see this thatclives in the US you can find the same part on the bus version of amazon just search the same part number.

hey thats awesome, i look forward to seeing how it goes

Thx this took me a while, I'm repairing this printer for a friend, do you have a install manual, he lost everything in a system crash,
it would be most helpful,

many thx,

Camille Paardenkooper

what do you mean by instructions? you need to use arduino software to upload the firmware to the printer. (this is pre-calibrated) so just load the software on and it should work just fine. Good luck! if you have any more questions feel free to ask

hi, I have been given a A602 printer and having no history of using these I think I am probably way out of my depth, I can not seem to get the Z axis to do anything but jitter about, the X and Y are fine. I then tried loading the merlin firmware with Arduino and now cant even connect to the printer using the repetier software. Any suggestions?

everyone starts from the beginning so don't feel intimidated by it. best way is to dive right in! :)

ok chap, looks like you are having some issues. firstly i would like you and others to know that this company are giving out good and bad instructions. some sellers give out the bad ones.
The 'bad ones' has the wiring for the motors the wrong way. if the z is jittering try reverse the plug for the ramps board. so unplug it, rotate 180 degrees and plug back in for both motors. Make sure the motors are plugged in the same way.

the software can be alot of issues, try power the printer on first, plug it in and then connect to it. give it 10 seconds before you press connect. if that hasn't done it message me again so we can talk though it.

Good luck

Thanks for the response, I found the issue thanks to a video on youtube. The 2 centre wires on the Z axisneed to swapped in the plug. Once I did that then all was good. I have been madly printing since then slowly getting an understanding of all the settings and how to get the job to stick to the bed :) I am now having a great time.

I mean the wiring manual for the Ramps 1.4 board ,
especially the endstops, the printer wasn't connected properly so I rewired the printer.


There you go, I posted them in the picture previews above

Many Thx,




I tried to upload this Merlin version into my A602 and the center of the bed is no longer on the center (the Z axis seems OK).
It seems the DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT is not the same they uploaded in the printer when they sent it, or it is not the right firmware.
I have a second A602 and I didnt changed anything to the firmware. The DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT are the same and it works perfectly ( at 100mm it is in the middle of the bed) .... strange ......
Is there any other parameter I could have miss and that could have an effect on the center of the bed ?

I made several tests this evening, and I need to put 80 to X and Y in DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT to have nearly the right position of the hod end on the center of the bed.
Very strange because parameters on my second A602 are 100 to X and 100 to Y and the printer goes well to the center when I move the hot end to 100mm in X and Y...
Does it works well on your printers when uploading the provided firmware without changing anything ?

Comments deleted.


I've uploaded the latest Marlin frimware and my setting for the stepper are:
define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,403.15,100}

I do have a wrong value on a print cube with my Z axis for now but nothing big.

Hope this can help you (I have a HIC A602 from Amazon)


I finnaly did the same thing by downloading the latest Marlin firmware.
My settings are: DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,405.4591,95} and it works !
The thing I still don't understand is why my second printer works with DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {100,100,405.4591,95} .........

After putting the old belt back on the printer seems to be back to being spot on :)

nice one. Good luck with future prints

I think I might have some sort of belt slip after some testing this is what I have.

Tried a test print again in the center of the bed. 10mm by 10mm by 3mm. The X is great about 10.03mm the Y is about 11mm and visually a rectangle not a square. The layer alignment is spot on so I that would make me think it wasn't slipping
Then I double checked the Y axis travel still good over 120mm

Then I moved the bed 10mm at a time and measured each step on the Y axis I got a pattern like this (Rounded to whole numbers obviously), ran the test twice

Both times the 11mm anomaly happened at the same location which is roughly where I was printing which then brings me back to thinking it is slipping.

So I measured the new belt vs the old belt, over approximately 130mm the new belt has 1 extra tooth. The sprocket on the stepper is 16 tooth. I am not sure if its the new belt but I am going to see if I can manage to put the old belt back on tonight. Problem is I need a new belt. I don't if the printer came with some bizarre belt and sprocket pitch or the new belt is the culprit and not standard.

I ordered new new belts a pulleys so for the same place so hopefully everything works out.

You've probably already figured this out, but the printer ships with MXL belts not GT2 which are more common. They along with the pulleys are different.

In hadn't figured what they were just new they were different, thanks! I ended up buying a whole new set of gt2 belts and pullies was too much.

Check out my post above regarding the correct DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT for MXL belts. Although if you're using GT2 now, 100 steps should be fine.

So I used the belt calculator and it exactly matched the firmware. However after measuring the travel with calipers it was off almost 1mm in Y and almost 2mm in X over 120mm of travel. If you have a nice set of calipers could you try the same test and see how accurate the firmware settings are?

By the way when I was digging around in the firmware I made the x travel 210mm now it can travel the full width of the heat bed and it still has about 5mm of empty space it could travel.

I also have all 3 bearings on the X axis as well. By the way in case you didn't notice, reason why there are 6 bearings in the kit is that the lower rod on the X-axis is suppose to have two bearings, you can see it in jpeg 6 for the machine pics from the SD card even though its not in the assembly video. It makes the carriage a lot more stable. It took me a while to figure out where that extra bearing was suppose to go.

yeah i just never put mine on. I may do in the future, hey does your y-axis make a horrible noise when you move it? still getting ovals?

No my Y is pretty smooth, there are Pots on the board you may need to tweak your current a bit, I haven't had to do it to mine but may need to tweak the extruder pot it was making some odd noise. How fast are you trying to drive it? I think the firmware only limits the X and Y to 500mm/s I reduced mine in the firmware to 100mm/s and so far I haven't notice slow any normal moves down. My X was pretty shaky until I added the new bearing.

I wasn't able to get a print last night, I tore apart a bunch of stuff to make sure its all tight, I dialed in the X and Y values so when I get home I just need to level the print bed and try it out. Hopefully that will take care of the ovals.

Also have you been able to figure out what the electronics board is, I have been trying to get specific info from the company and like you have been having issues getting what I want. They did yield the firmware files to me (probably thanks you to it sounds) but no specifics about all the other electronic hookups on the board.

Just as a side note do you know of any communities centered around this printer. Would be nice to here if anyone does any successful upgrades like auto z level multi extrudes ect.

I am installing a proximity sensor to auto bed level but no i have not heard of any communities

The board info was not given to me but i think i will just upgrade to a ramps 1.4 when i need to.


That's awesome, I am thinking about doing the same things. I have an extra mega laying around anyway.

My HIC A602 from amazon is using a Mks 1.2 board (basicly a Arduino Mega and a Ramp 1.?? built-in.

I had an issues and I accidentally reset the firmware settings on mine. The configuration.h file doesn't seem to be up to date and I am concerned that all my motion variables are wrong.

I know that the steps in the x and y are wrong because after the reset I am now printing in ovals not circles. I am not too worried about that because I can figure that part out, but all the velocities accels, jerks ect I am not sure how to setup.

If you would be so kind to post the firmware settings I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks!

This firmware should be fully calibrated and up to date. I will try to correct the settings for you as soon as possible.
The original firmware says that the steps should be:
(that is what is shown on my lcd when the printer first arrived)

In the configuration.h file it has

define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {100,100,405.4591,95} // default steps per unit for Ultimaker

I am sure X and Y are not exactly 100, unless I messed up my printer some how, when I measure and try calibrating using calipers I get about 98.67 for X and 99.09 for Y

Also what leads me to believe that its not right is this line

define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {500, 500, 5, 20} // (mm/sec)

To me this implys that X and Y can go 500mm/s a seconds but according to the info for the printer in only suppose to go 100mm/s

Have you upgraded any parts? Have you ensured your belts are tight and the pullers are properly tightened to the motor pulley? What the diameter of your pulleys?

No Upgrades and yes everything is tight, not sure on the pully diameter (not at home right now) but its what came with the kit.

I had it all assembled and worked really well with nice prints, but when they sent kit they sent the wrong length threaded rods(too short but made them work for a bit) and there were some other issues. So after correcting these issues and resembling the heat bed didn't work (it was the thermal resistor, I damaged it somehow, fixed now) while navigating the menus trying to figure out why the heat bed wasn't working I accidentally hit restore failsafe

Now I am printing ovals and diamonds instead of circles and squares.

Try clear the EEPROM and reload the firmware i provided

I will give that a go when I get home, however I looked at your configuration.h and it has the same values and date stamp as mine. Or am I looking at the wrong file?

This is just the firmware they gave me. i have not changed it in any way. I just uploaded as the company were being idiots and not giving it out in the first place

I know and thanks by the way. All I am saying is that the what the company supplied, I don't believe has the true values it ships with. They are the default values it ships with but when you select "restore failsafe" but doesn't seem to be what the printer is actually running.

If you could navigate Control -> Motion Then Snap a few pictures of the all values you have in the motion menu I would greatly appreciate it.

I believe that if you downloaded the files from the company into your printer you would be in the same boat as me printing ovals.

Oh wow thanks. Well that's a bit concerning then, because those are the right settings then.

So if that's case I wonder why I am suddenly unable to print circles, all I really did was swap the threaded rods for one that are the correct length on the Y axis and fix the Y axis belt. I did nothing to the X axis at all, yet neither one seems to be moving right.

Well thanks for all your help I was hoping that if I found the right settings everything would start working right again :/

there may be something wrong on your end. make sure the grub screws for the pulleys are on the flats of the stepper motors, the motors are correctly wires and everything.

Yeah I will double check everything, although I never unplugged anything other then the heat bed. I will check the screws too but if it were slipping it wouldn't be able to apply aligned layers. The layer placement is very consistent just not how far the travel is, and like I said everything was fine until I "Fixed" The threaded rods :/