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Ultimaker X(2X), Y(2X), Z

by carljones, published

Ultimaker X(2X), Y(2X), Z by carljones Apr 13, 2013


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Ultimaker with Twice the X,Y Build Envelope Keeping Z Standard


I have been working on building a larger Ultimaker as the one Supplied just isn't big enough.
I have been working from the Original REV 3 Ultimaker Laser Cut Drawings found http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13571
My Plan is to have a panel made at work consisting of 4mm Birch Ply with 1mm Aluminium Both Sides and then cut out on a CNC router with a 3mm cutter. On the DWG,DXF file you will see that I have started to put 1.5mm rounded internal corners which I will take a file to after. These should be cut out on the 15/04/2013 as my panel has been pressed. I then should be able to start the assembly of the case that weekend as I will have more time for finishing touches like rounding some of the edges off to help give it a better overall finish before taking it back to work to get sprayed.
I am not sure what to do with the base yet. I have been reading up on a lot of people’s comments, I am thinking of an Aluminium heated bed.
The side panels I am going to put a recess in for a Perspex panel.
I am going to purchase the Laser less Ultimaker Kit https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/ultimaker-kits/laserless-ultimaker-kit-new.html .
What will be different is the X,Y Rods and Belts keeping the more expensive parts standard. I will be asking Ultimaker when I come to purchase this kit, if they will supply those parts to me, to my dimensions at an additional cost.

I am not looking for funding like someone else on here.
But I am after your knowledge, especially with regard to an inexpensive way for the base.

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As you can see the printer is almost ready to print.
The issue I only have is that the x,y axis is stiff compared to the standard Ultimaker and I am unsure why.

is there any chance you can upload the IPT's and IAM's?

i am working on a ultimaker project and i am probably going to make a similar design.
it would save me a lot of time and id would be much appreciated!

Thank you for your effort!

I didn't model it in Inventor in the end but I have uploaded a DXF and a excel of the parts I have used

oh and by the way: to save you from tedious filing: let the machine remove a bit extra material in each corner. You can make it do that by drawing some circles of your endmill diameter (+ some tolerance) that just touches the corner you wish to cut out. The two (crescent shaped) parts of the circle that cross the original line are the extra material you need to remove.

very laudable initiative, but you will need to increase the size of the rods to compensate for the length. Otherwise your machine will flex a lot, making it impossible to do fast moves (something the stock UM is very good at). With bigger hardware comes bigger weight, that you can only overcome with larger motors. Do you see where that is going? You are essentially designing a new machine that just looks like an UM.

You might want to contact Bruce Wattendorf, he made an UM scaled up to 3 or 4 foot, see what he has to say about the dimensions to use for your machine.

Somewhere on my to-do list is a UM derivate at similar dimensions, so please keep us posted if you ever built this!

I have sent an email to martijn at ultimaker of all the parts drawn up. He is the designer who designed the ultimaker and they have told me that they are currently working on a larger ultimaker at the moment. I am hoping he will get back to me next week. His email address is on the drawings found http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13571http://www.thingiverse.com/thi... in case anyone else ever wanted to get in touch with him. I have found the guys at ultimaker very helpful so far.
The 6mm ply parts should be cut out this week if the machine operator gets 10 mins to program it in. they have already pressed the panel for me which is 4mm birch ply with 1mm ali both side.

Ultimaker Lasercut Drawings

Yes I know who Martijn, Erik or Siert are, I know them personally. That is because the Ultimaker was developed (partly) at Protospace. Siert is one of the founders of Ultimaking and was my colleague before he moved to UM full-time. In other words, I do know what I am talking about.

We also do have an Ultimaker that is scaled up in one dimension(Z): that turned out not to be a very good idea: you can move the 12mm Z-rods with your finger. We had a lot of artefacts (Z-wobble mostly) on this machine, caused by the under-dimensioning of this axis. Therefore I predict you: if you do not increase the diameter of the rods to compensate for their longer length, your print-result will suffer.

I doubt UM will wish to sell you different sized rods etc, as far as I know they do not do the cutting themselves. You will probably have a better chance at 'Metalbau Pietrzak' if you are in Europe or Misumi or McMasterCarr in the states.

As for getting a timely reply to your email; I gently smile at you... perhaps...

I am completely new to 3D printing. I am working on a college project and the quotes I was getting to have them printed was almost the same as buying the printer. that's why I am going to build one, but what I want to print wont fit on the standard ultimaker. I think I found the ultimaker you said was enlarged in z ( http://bernhardkubicek.soup.io/post/159848337/Protospace-Utrecht-NL-non-photoshopped-their-Ultimakerhttp://bernhardkubicek.soup.io... ) Do you know of any kits that I can buy to try and reduce the cost. I am based in the UK. I have been looking at EBAY and there is 4 axis stepper motor kits start at around £100 but I wouldn't have a clue if they was any good or not.

Yes, first advice would be to not do it: As I said your are basically developing a new printer, there is no way you will iron out all the kinks before your project is due. Building a UM takes about 1-2 days, but that because it is a very good kit, all parts work together and the design has been tested a few thousand times. Building a new printer design will set you back much longer, multiply that given your lack of experience with 3D printing.

Add to that that printing larger models without warping is very hard and requires lots of design compromises. There might be a reason why professional printers all use a heated chamber and print slow. The only dimension in which you can scale up easily is Z...

Now, perhaps you could tell us what you wish to print on it? Usually, the much easier solution would be to reduce your piece into smaller printable parts. Why would your thing need to be printed in one piece?

Also, if you are new to 3D printing, that quote you got is probably meaningless. Your model is not very optimized for 3D printing, you never had it in your hands once. To make anything successfully, you need to go over several iterations of prototypes. This is where rapid-prototyping + 3D printing shines. With an ultimaker on your desk you can quickly iterate over several designs a day (unless you go answering beginners questions on TV..), something you cannot do with post-order 3D printing services. That problem (lack of enough prototypes) is something I also with our interns here: the better products all have a progression of prototypes.

So, to wrap it up: do buy an Ultimaker if you must, but do keep it stock initially. Start printing out your design at a scale that is printable (in parts or whole). Fix what is wrong with those, lather, rinse, repeat until it is good enough. If you need to, scale up the Z-axis of the UM, but keep it as short as possible, I'd say 60cm max.

i think the zaxis will cause problems in this size.
its just supported on the back side and the bigger size gives more leverage to a collision. four guidance rods would be better and more precise i think.

I have been thinking about this. Obviously the further away I go from the rods the more it will want to tip. This is also why I am thinking about making the base from ali and machining the back out of it to reduce the weight.

I would like to try and keep the mechanical parts standard for the z axis.

I do have the rest of the parts drawn up now but when I try to upload it doesn't do anything. I have also tried to upload a new thing as well but that's the same.