Ciclop 3D Scanner

by bq3D Mar 25, 2015
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on the pattern-holder.stl, I wish the assembly screws weren't in blind holes. This makes assembly and disassembly very difficult.

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I want to make one, but it's too hard for me. It's this one nee. Is Raspberry pi 3 useful in your project? https://www.allchips.ai/activity.html i have win a free Raspberry pi 3 from allchips, but i never used...

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So I purchased the lasers everyone has suggested but they didn't come with connectors and the wires seem to be a bit short. Does anyone know the name of the connectors or where to get them? and how do I fix the short wire problem? If anyone has made this project and bought those same lasers, you most likely have had to deal with this same problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

This is an excellent project. 3D Scanner is popular.For engineers engaged in the electronics industry, electronic components, like people's daily regular meals, are needed to be touched every day, but they need to be used every day.Here is a list of engineers ten common electronic components, and related basic concepts and knowledge: http://green-electronic-tutorial.blogspot.com/2018/03/how-to-make-high-quality-pcb-board.html

Phenominal instruction video! I'm impressed!

Hello, I look the code of ciclop that don't understand how toreal distance transform 3D points distance.If you have time please help me thinks.

Thanks for sharing your information. I have not finished my ciclop scanner and therefore no experience with it yet. But I have looked a bit around in the web and found the following. You probably have done it already yourself but maybe one of it is helpful for you

I found it very hard to find the window exe install software. Finally found it so here is the link

I am using 0.2b3 and is working good.

But once i got my ply is there a fast easy way to get an stl from it? i try mesh lab and some items scans work while others lock up the program.

Hello again
I can not upload the horus-fw.- file
I'm looking for a little help
Arduino nano v3 - 328b

Please someone to help clearly.

Maybe this link can be helpful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1g66Nss-r_4

There is an step by step on YouTube how to install the Software, and how to calibrate.

Are the dimensions of the parts slightly smaller than required?

Has anyone bought and constructed one of these, and had it be able to scan anything? If so, I'm happy for you! If you care to share how you
did it, I'd be happy, too!

I really LOVE your Design!
Im going to build my as soon as my parts arrived.

I was lucky and got up to 11% discount because it is bangood sale:


Thank you sooo much!

Hello again
I can not upload the horus-fw.- file
I'm looking for a little help
Arduino nano v3 - 328b

I want to use another camera
Simple and inexpensive but not recognized by the Horus program
I'm asking for help

Hello, how much filament (Kg) used in 3d printing of all parts? Thank you.

It depends on the print settings that you use.

Load the design into Cura and it'll tell you.


My dad bought one of these 3D ciclop. I've installed everything for him, but still having problems at the calibration. It goes untill the end, but at 1mm before the end, it stops and says that it didn't work.
I search for more then a week on internet for more information and couldn't find anything. I would like to have some help please because we can't use it for the moment.

Wuyts Anthony

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Just assembled our Ciclop 3d Scanner and can't find a driver for the logitec C270 for mac webcam that came with the kit.
Is there a work around?

Does anyone know where I can find a mac driver for this camera?
Can I replace the camera with another one that is mac compatible?
If I do resolve this problem will I run into other mac related problems?

Thanks for your help.


Has anyone been able to find a OpenCAD file for the Camera holder? It seems that is the only part that is missing. I would like to re-work it to fit a raspberry pi, and change the rod diameters.

Has anyone been able to resolve the problem where one laser scans a point cloud outside of the other and they do not line up (in a cylinder for example one laser scan is outside of the other) It is killing me and I've triple checked everything and made the lasers sharp,etc,etc. Any clues or help would be appreciated.

is possible to use a better cam? just swap with the logitech or some mods are needed?


go here to get more files

Part Number Description Qty Units
G003657 ZUM BT328 rev2 1 PCs
C03I050003 USB wire 1.2m for charger 1 PCs
C04H010020 Stepstick Drivers A49988 4 layers
(with heatsink) 1 PCs
C05C020001 Power supply 12V-1.5A 1 PCs
C05I070002 M3x10 Screw - DIN-912 Class 8.8 Black 10 PCs
C05I070004 M3 Nut - DIN 934 Class 8 Black 6 PCs
C05I070032 M8 Nut - DIN 934 Class 8 Black 28 PCs
C05I070035 M8 Washer - DIN-125 Class 8 Black 18 PCs
C05I070005 Allen key s/long 2.5 Forum 1 PCs
C05I070068 Bearing 16014 1 PCs
C05I070086 Ceramic screw driver trimmer for electronics 1 PCs
C05I070126 Non-skid EPDM disk (200mm diameter) 1 PCs
C05I070127 HD Webcam C270 1 PCs
C05I070128 MOTOR 42BYGHW609P1-X11 [Nema 17] 1 PCs
G003527 ZUM SCAN Shield 1 PCs
G003803 M8X400MM Black threaded rod 2 PCs
G003804 M8X292MM Black threaded rod 1 PCs
G003805 M8X170MM Black threaded rod 4 PCs
G004291 M8x30 Screw - DIN-933 Class 8.8 Black 3 PCs
G003807 200x8 MM Acrylic cylinder 1 PCs
G003810 3D Scanner Calibration Sticker 1 PCs
G004066 CICLOP 3D Scanner Methacrylate Pattern 1 PCs
G003976 CICLOP 3D Scanner Printed Motor Support Red 1 PCs
G003979 CICLOP 3D Scanner Printed Camera Support Red 1 PCs
G003982 CICLOP 3D Scanner Printed Electronic Cover Red 1 PCs
G003985 CICLOP 3D Scanner Printed Laser Support Red 2 PCs
G003988 CICLOP 3D Scanner Printed Fitting Motor-Disk Red 1 PCs
G003997 CICLOP 3D Scanner Printed Disk Support Red 1 PCs
G004063 CICLOP 3D Scanner Printed Pattern Support Red 1 PCs
G004000 CICLOP 3D Scanner Printed Clip Bearing Red 3 PCs
G003991 CICLOP 3D Scanner Printed Motor Cable Conduit Black 1 PCs
G003994 CICLOP 3D Scanner Printed Laser Cable Conduit Black 2 PCs
Red Line Laser, 5V, 60º, class 1, with connector 2 PCs
G004134 Antislip Pads Transparent H3.5mm W12.7mm 6 PCs

Hello Everyone

I am new to the Thingiverse community and somewhat new to DIY electronics. I have what may be a silly question... Is there an actual complete "list" anywhere of all materials required for this project? I have a 3D printer so the part files are no problem. I have scoured this page and haven't been able to find a complete materials list. I have compiled an incomplete list based on the comments and a few of the links, but it would be extremely useful to have a complete shopping list. I have an Arduino board with a shield already, so I'm assuming that should work for the electronics portion. How long are the threaded rods supposed to be? Will any webcam work? If there is a list somewhere I would greatly appreciate a nudge in the right direction. Thanks!

alittle late but here https://www.banggood.com/UNO-R3-Board-ZUM-Scan-Shield-Expansion-Open-Source-Kit-For-DIY-Ciclop-3D-Printer-Scanner-p-1088312.html?rmmds=mywishlist for the arduino and driver board

line laser https://www.banggood.com/650nm-5mW-Focusable-Red-Line-Laser-Module-Laser-Generator-Diode-p-960447.html?rmmds=search
get 2

Logitech-C270 on ebay get 1

then get m8x1.25mm 2 400mm pieces 1 300mm-6 nuts 6 washers-for base......4 170mm m8x1.25 8 nuts 8 washers-lasers from ebay or anywhere

then 3d print out the parts here...

upload the arduino code... then heres a printable calibration sheet..http://www.mrpt.org/downloads/camera-calibration-checker-board_9x7.pdf mount it glue it to some glass or plexi glass

software setup https://media.readthedocs.org/pdf/horus/release-0.2/horus.pdf

assembly https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VYQuiM_4nls

how to setup for your print https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5m9bRGePlYc

and your done belive it or not im researching this stuff now all you need is about 50 usd to build one of these things of course a 3d printer or know someone with one and probably 25% of a 2kg roll of filament and prolly 10 hours print one thing at a time one day at a time take your time... thats what i do.. i plan on doing this one.. someone else did https://www.instructables.com/id/Build-a-30-laser/

about the same cost..

oh youll need a stepper motor those are about 10 bucks on ebay.. just search for it.. and your done

I have now manage to get the Stepper motor Nema16 12V and the AZL Ramps Stepper Driver A4988, the Laser Emitter 5MW-HLM1230 and GTC Ardanuino comp uno Rev3 locally in South Africa how ever i cannot get a generic of the ZUM Scan Expansion board :(

is this component only available via ZUM if so how can i get in contact with them to buy one if not what would be the generic model number to look for locally as they dont pick this board up on there DIY kits.

Other then that i must still get a camera Logitech C270 i do feel i might want to use my PS3 eye but then i need to modify the base to make the camera fit, hopefully there is still Logitech C270 available and not been discontinued. anyone can maybe advise me ! Thank you in advance

i know its 5 months on but the zum shield can be bought from banggood and sent anywhere from china.
C270 was bought last week from cplonline.com.au (australia). so i assume they are still around, maybe not locally though.

Hi there sorry to bother you again but just need to ask my local suppliers mentioned there is 2 types of lasers the line laser and dot laser... from what i can see on the photos provided on this Ciclop 3D Scanner it only say Laser on the sticker

Line LASER's are what you need I modified the holders to take 10mm .dia modules as they are much cheaper than the 8mm .dia modules specified in the bill of materials that BQ has listed on the BQ website

tou dont hâve the STL file for the 200 diameter disck ?
Thank you

I've followed the ups and downs of the ciclops build and decided I had to try myself.

I found the cheapest and easiest path was to buy a kit from East Machinery..... they make and sell industrial 3d printers for thousands of dollars / pounds / euros.....

I paid $150 delivered.... and it arrived in 4 weeks.... ALL the parts... 3d printed, lasers rods, disc, electronics etc.... it assembled quickly and I am currently playing with it... setup and getting going was surprisingly easy.

I am now designing mods for more easily available 12mm laser lines with focusing adjustment (6 for £8) and a higher resolution "standard" 8megapixel compact camera as the "web cam"..... seems like fun

plus, more importantly, I'm working on a polycarbonate enclosure for the taz6 printer..... polycarbonate as opposed to acrylic as acrylic softens at too low a temperature and the polycarbonate enclosure will allow internal temperatures as high as 110c.... not that it will ever be run anything like that hot.


have you done this mod

ok.. good but post here your scan

looks like it is 188$ delivered now. I'm looking to scan small objects and have done very little research other than finding out the skanect and Kinect scanner wont do what I need. Is this the best way to go other than building yourself and gathering each and every part?

don't know if its the best route to follow BUT I found it the cheapest ($158 today july 4th on offer) and far cheaper than the parts I could find elsewhere.

it took just under 4weeks to deliver... but that's because I had to wait for the kit to be put together.

assembly was a few hours and it scans pretty good.... not recommended but I've scanned 1/2inch object with success....

I know there can be problems but the problem solving is part of ciclops appeal.. at least the info is easy to get and "playing around" with instructions is a lot easier than a "commercial" scanner.... I looked at most "under £1000" (under $1700) scanners and none met my needs as closely as the ciclops.... I'm trying an enlarged version, at the moment, with ciclops as the "baseline"... I could do with at least 500mm scans and its a modified ciclops or $5000+

the big "draw" as far as I was concerned (I'm old, and very ill) was a lack of stress trying to find the parts and waiting for lots of deliveries.... 4 weeks.. all in one box... easy peasy!!!


I cannot print the camera holder without the corners warping on my prusa i3.
On my Kossel the camera base prints standing up, it is fine but the supports are a bit wonky.

Using Orange PLA.

Mine still doesn't work, that ciclop is a disaster and your support is 0.

What is mode Logitech is you using, please Make a link.. for what component you are using... There is not audible guide, The only sound is headbanning crap music..

The Ciclop scanner saga continues...
OK so I modified the LASER holders to fit 12mm lasers so I could use modules that were cheap got that done a simple fix( the best price I could find for the recommended kit LASERS was $25 Canadian dollars each, the cheap Chinese modules were only $1 Canadian.

Bought ZUM scan boards from OSHPARK minimum order was 3 boards, no problem. BQ cannot ship to Canada from Spain for complected boards. No idea why? Ordered parts from Mouser electronics. built the boards. They work cool!

Printed all the parts no problem.

Now the latest issue lol!

I went to my local machine shop / Industrial supply to price and get the turntable bearing.
My god could they possibly find a more uncommon bearing(70x110x13)!
The price I was quoted from my local shop was $130 Canadian after an online search I could order one for $40 from China.
(They are pretty reasonable and I have been an Industrial and Agricultural customer for years and have a good relationship with them)
I'm reworking thee base to handle a much cheaper bearing set.
The quoted bearing would be able to handle several TON's of load! So its not necessary as I doubt I would put anything on the turntable that weighs more than a couple of kilograms

Thank you BQ for making your project even more frustrating to complete! The roadblocks and search for parts was fun to navigate
So much for the idea of a $50 3d scanner I have spent more than that on hardware and electronics. It would have been nice if I could have ordered the kit from Lulzbot for $299 USD I'm close to that on what this has cost so far (Lulzbot can't ship the kit to Canada for some reason because of the LASER's).

At This point I'm going to finish the project and use it but I'm less than thrilled with BQ

The 12mm holder you modified, was a drilling out the holes or did you edit the STL. If you edited the STL, can I get it from you? Lasers i have here are 12mm as well.


If I could find the file i would share the edit but that was a couple of years ago now I gave up on it the parts all done and have sat since 2016

I got bearings cheap from China.
I have an extra if you want? I am in USA, Canada not too far.
$15 + shipping?

Good luck with getting the thing to work.
There support is 0, mine still can't scan.
There newest software version is for ubuntu not for windows.

Have you checked any of the user forums for help? I haven't done much with the project since the great bearing debacle. I'm still simmering over that. With literally dozens of options available these guys seem to pick oddball parts, and zero communication skills when asked questions. This is a good example of what happens when you let coders with a slight knowledge of engineering and cost control loose to design something.

i did, this guy called Jesus is doing the support, after asking me a few questions he told me chances were great my problems would be fixed with the latest software, wich is not available for windows.

ok so the Camera holder here does not seem to be the one for the Arduino Uno.
Every 'controller' kit I've found on the internet has been Arduino Uno and the scan ZUM SCAN shield.
Once the shield is on the Uno, and the stepper driver is on the shield, and heatsink, it becomes too tall to fit in the area provided.
I had to cut the little legs out (what are they for, anyway?) and hot-glue the Uno board in place. Once the little legs were removed, there was enough room for the cover to be put on.

Is there a different base that has a better mounting option for the arduino uno or am I missing something here?

Thank you!!!

When building mine i used these 2 items, worked great.



Ciclop Arduino mount
Ciclop Back Cover for bigger electronic card
by s3rkan

Thank you so much!

where can i get an stl file for the disc?

so my stepper 42 motor has Red A+ Yellow B+ Green A- Blue B- does someone have a drawing of the board, not sure where to hookup on the board.

on github, svg folder

Brilliant work.
Parts on order.
However, my parts box contains lots of very close but not identical stuff, and likely so does everybody else.
Is it possible for you to release the original design source files to allow to easier modification?
Else I'll just have to redesign some parts from scratch.


ok .. I've built everything, I used a motor NEMA 17 17hs2408 ( angle deg. 1.8)
the engine warms up very quickly, do not touch it...is not normal .. maybe I'm wrong connection?

nema 17 pinout :
RED: A +

the laser must cross the center of the disc?

I can not scan objects that have black pieces ... it is not possible scan objects blacks I wonder what it's for this scanner ...

at this point a better kinect ..

someone can post scans performed with ciclop bq?


Just a thought here on scanning black or dark images. Early on when I was doing scanner stuff - long before this project I ran into this same issue. The fix - though you might not like this in some cases - was to powder the object with fine white powder. I used baby powder to cover my items as it can be blown off OR if possible, washed off easily, plus is not abrasive on the object.

The white powder coating helps to show/reflect the laser so the camera can see the line being made. ALSO!!! If you can place the unit into a darkened box - Get a large cardboard box to put the unit in. Cut a flap so you can open the top - or remove it. Then place your object inside. The laser camera will have an easier time seeing the laser line in the dark or low light conditions. The line is what is being recorded but you can scan in normal light as well - maybe add some LED's to a simple small USB charger with a toggle switch. If done right - you can control how much light is inside the enclosure during the scan and get the best results with the control of lighting.

I could make a thing for the lights if requested with parts listings.

where did you hook these up to the board?? this my only last thing to do.

Comments deleted.

Will the programming work with other cameras plug and play? Or are there programming modifications required?

Would stepping up to a 1080P camera make a difference? Such as the C920.
I'm not concerned about the design mounts as I can update that. Mostly concerned with the programming and hookups.

Thanks in advance.

Is there a version that has the larger pieces in smaller sections? for printers that are limited to say 14cm x 14cm x 13cm max capacity ???Thanxs


Been thinking about this for a while, but what are the results of a scanned object like? I don't seem to be able to find any good pictures of the results.

You will find information on how to build it but no work done ...

Are we ever going to get the update with nice extras in?
I know it was being tested.

Any recommendations on a fine laser from Ebay?


Pour ceux qui pensais pouvoir facilement extraire un fichier STL, passer votre chemin.
Inutilisable,régalage fastidieux dépendant de la luminosité qui varie constamment....
Nuage de point a retoucher dans meshlab qui n'est pas des plus intuitif et en anglais uniquement.
besoin d'une machine de guerre pour faire tout ça.
Dommage, belle effort de BQ sur la doc et la belle conception des pièces imprimable = manque un logiciel utilisable par le commun des mortels.
Peut-être qu'un informaticien averti saurait gérer, ce n'est pas mon cas. 123d catch est bien mieux pour un stl sans échelle si on est pas préssé.
Peut-être que BQ saura m'aider... a suivre.

I bought a kit from China, and printed all the plastic parts myself. My only problem is that the stepper they sent doesn't seem to work. Something inside seems to spin but the shaft doesn't move, or moves erratically, even when the motor shaft is not attached to the ciclop platform. At first I thought it was a pinout problem, so I took the pins out of the connector and tried all 24 combos of the four colors to get it to spin correctly, but none worked. I would have expected 2 of those combos to work (one for each direction). So I can only assume at this point the motor is bad. I'd rather just buy a better quality one directly than trying to go through the seller for a replacement. Thing is, I don't know much about steppers, so I need help getting the right one. Anyone have a link to the correct one? Or what I should be looking for? Thanks for the help! I hate to come this far only to get thwarted by the dang stepper.


I had the same issue initially, and realised that I hadn't put the jumpers on the driver board for micro-stepping, so that might be worth checking. I'm using a CNC V3 Shield on an Arduino Uno clone, but don't know what you're using so this may help, or not.

Stepper driver voltage correct? Or do these drive directly from the board? Either way, jerky motion with no load is usually an under-loaded stepper driver. Measure the pot directly on the driver (with ceramic/non-conductive screw driver) and check voltage. Should be between .4 and .8v. Some motors like higher juice levels, so as long as it's staying cool (fan on heatsink works) then you should be good to go.

Nice work and professional !!!
i have one question ; Which software did you use to make this animation video ??

Thanks in advance for your answer

really need to do your homework and find the best prices.

whats the total average cost for all parts needed?

Where does one find that checker sticker paper at ?

thank you so much, that helped alot, printed it out on photo paper.

Comments deleted.

No updates on the firmware or software for a long time. Looks like this is dead?

Hi, it has been new features implemented but not released. Now the project goes managed by bqlabs (Innovation Department), without product management. New releases will be tested by the community. Keep tuned.

Thanks. But it's been months now :(

Nop, is mostly because it works well. There are no big bugs needed to be fixed. looks that they are working in the documentation

They was going to add more features to help after you've scanned the item. But this has not happened.

Is it really necessary to use pololu module to drive motor and is it really necessary to use such expensive and powerful motor as nema17?
I bought 28byj-48 stepper motor with uln2003, it has 64 steps per 5 degrees of rotation. This pair costs few dollars and powerful enough to rotate platform. Is scanning really so intence process that I need to move stepper control to external pololu board?

For scanning it is used 0.45-0.225º with higher resolution. Then, your driver can be adapted. Here you can edit the firmware (https://github.com/bqlabs/horus-fw) to make it compatible.

How come there hasn't been any updates to either the firmware or software?

How fine does the laser line need to be? I got these adjustable focus modules:


But the finest line I can get them to make is about 2-3mm wide at roughly the turntable distance. Can I get better modules than these?

the thinner the better, at least in resolution, but makes it difficult to segment the line by the algorithm. i think that those lasers are ok, looks better than my lasers!! :P

Can this scanner be built on Arduino 2560 Mega board? Maybe someone has appropriate firmware and project details?

Here you can find Horus-fw for Arduino Mega: https://github.com/McVillano/horus-fw

I am wondering the same thing as i have 4 of these laying around.
Can anyone answer us?

Comments deleted.

Can any one tell me where i can get the laser modules ?

Laser 5mw-650nm

Just had a email reply from bqlabs they said "The BQ Ciclop has two 5V class-1 line lasers. Any red line laser should work with it."

I'm trying to find out as well. I've asked about the volts ect. But Nothing.
I want to try Green lasers. If you find out please post and I will do the same.

What printer settings should I use?
You guy's using support for the the main part (camera holder).

When looking at the sliced STL, I'm sure i need to install cooling for my Prusa prior to this print if I ever want to give it a go without support.

I have printed all of the parts (except the back cover) with no additional support with good results. Parts that need support have the support built into the model. The bearing clip for example has 3 tubes coming out of a pedestal - that is all for support. Same for the camera holder. There is support built in.

I'm printing on a XYZ Da Vinci 1.0. It does not have a cooling fan.

I am having trouble printing the back cover. It is really thin and is not printing well. Still working on that.

Would anyone be willing to share there printer settings on the various components of this scanner or point me in the right direction?
Google seems to come up with nothing about printer settings


I'll tell you what I did to get better scans.

When it's all together and the program is installed. Go to advanced calibration and turn on both lasers.
Now you will see the point they cross on the turn table. But I bet it won't be in the middle. If it is..WELL DONE :)

You have two options if the lasers don't make a cross in the middle.

!- undo the nuts that hold your laser on both sides.
2-move the laser holder until they cross in the centre of the turn table.
3-when you've done that re calibrate.

Or you can move the table. I found moving the lasers to be easer. I hope that helps.

I thought both lasers are vertical? Is one supposed to be orthogonal to the other?

Yes vertical but the beams should cross in the centre of the turn table.

Thanks. I assume you simply position the target so it is centered and then try to align the lasers by adjusting their position along the horizontal arms?

No. You setup the lasers then go through the calibration in horus.. When done just put what ever you want to scan in the middle of the turn table. Lets us know how you get on.

In Spanish but they give good tips. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Fg0L9JPddg

If I use the right laser only I get better results. I'm scanning a rectangular object. If I use the left laser, the object is very curved on its two wide faces. If I use both lasers I get a very distorted scan like 2 objects offset from each other.

My laser beams are vertical. I did run the calibrations. The beams are about 6mm apart and parallel at the center of the platform. The calibration looks odd though, one side is much taller than the other.

Ok, I recalibrate after putting up a white background behind the scanner. This made a big difference! There is still a little "gap" between the two objects that are created when I use both lasers. I'm not sure what causes that but the laser triangulation calibration made a big step forward.

Not having much success so far. I did the horus laser calibration. That does not converge the beams at the center of the table - they are about 6mm apart.

I've set the focus on my camera (there is a youtube on how to do this). It might be a lighting or background problem. I have a busy background. I am using the ROI view and setting the cylinder around the object to scan. The object is black but I've tried a few other things too.

Post a pic of your scan. When you calibrate and use the chequered bit. Do the lasers match up 100%
with the straight lines? they must cross at the middle of the table.

You may find your turn table is a bit out when it's going round but there is nothing you can do about it.

I posted pics in the google group. Not sure how to do it here. I'm getting better results after putting up a white backdrop and recalibrating. The lasers are parallel and are parallel to the vertical lines on the target. At the center of the platter they are about 6mm apart with each line being 3mm away.

I'm not sure what you mean about the turntable being out? Mine seems to rotate smoothly and level.

Some turn tables are off centre. I don't get what you mean by " At the center of the platter they are about 6mm apart with each line being 3mm away"

The lasers should cross each other at the centre of the turn table.

The laser beams are vertical lines and are parallel to each other. They do not cross - they are 6mm apart. What do you mean by "cross" do you mean "converge" - the lines are overlaid on top of each other?

I've just revisited this and see that if I move the target screen forward a few mms the laser lines do converge. It is difficult to say if it is exactly at the center of the platter but seems to be very close. I rotated the platter, found the center, made a mark and then tried to align the screen at that mark.

a good thing i‘d have a try!

So as far as i understand- if i buy the electronic kit (http://store.bq.com/en/kit-electronica-ciclop) and print these files, i´ll have a 3d scanner ?

Really? And the steel rods?

If you get the full kit then yes.

and compared the print quality after scanning ?

I will compare after it comes and I set it up. Problem being all the video help are in Spanish :(

I've found the kit for sale in the UK at a good price so I may get it. Does the scanner software work on windows 8.1?
Have I got to flash the small mother board? Thank you.

http://www.printme3d.com/get-in-touch cheapest place I've found in the UK.

Forgot to ask. Can we upgrade the camera?

Well I caved in a ordered one from the site posted above.... :)

i found the full scanner kits here in the uk http://www.3dprintworld-aylesbury.co.uk/scanners/ciclop they also sell the electronics only kits

How can we purchase one if we live in the US?

Looks like it will just fit

Will this fit on a 200x200 print bed ?


The motor wireway is 240mm so it will not fit. Use NetFab - select scale - uncheck the "fix scaling ratio" - and change the Z axis scale to something that will fit your printer.

If you do not uncheck (or un-tick) the "fix scaling ratio' box the entire part will scale proportionally and will not fit onto the rod.

Thanks to Idcampana for 6014 suggestion....got one from Ebay.uk for £9.89 including 1st class post !!!
To help compensate for the 7mm extra thickness, I did 3 things ---------

1/ Used a 6mm thick turntable, with 1.5mm non-slip mat, winning about 2.5mm over original
2/ Lowered the base flange as much as possible (was around 4mm).......so table surface lowered total c. 6.5mm
3/ Increased the height of the two bearing flanges on base from 11mm to 18mm

All fits like a glove ------- and the overall geometry is close to original. Only when I sort electrics and rev up will I know.

The 16014 Bearing in my country is over $90.00, so, we are going to try to print one, we will post our success asap. (or failure)

do you have some stls to share? I want to try too

Hey, here''s an stl the dimensions are exactly the same a the 16014
I use my own short url script / service.
The below link will download the STL called Bearing.stl
The Download is 44.8 meg.
And here is the bearing.scad file, so you can make a lot of different bearing.
Also hosted on my short url:

OpenSCAD is free to download here:

There are some Customizers here as well located at:
However I have had no success with the online one, the page times out.
The Outer Dia of the 16014 is 110mm inside dia is 70mm, thickness is 13 mm

I hope this helps.
Please post any successful prints.

Customizable Ball Bearing Generator
by Z80nm

You can try the 6014, which is cheaper (at least in my country). The only problem is that it's 7mm higher so you have to modify the base.


Hope it helps.

Comments deleted.

IS there an alternative to the Zum Board, I cannot seem to buy one in Australia, an Alternative would be great.

I think that you can use as alternative , a standard Arduino UNO and a CNC V3 shield.

Modified the bq firmware to use this board which you can download here : https://github.com/snhack/horus-fw

set it up can't get the bugger working

Hi, after compiling opencv the right way, i could proceed quite a bit! But now I am stuck in calibrating the chessboard.
Seems it cannot recognize me squares. Is the LDR Value required(i did not connect them) ?
Look at

Can you give me further hints ?

Hi, you need to use our chessboard pattern without scaling: https://github.com/bq/ciclop/blob/master/svg/chessboard-pattern.svg. You don't need LDR value. Please, write further issues in our Google Group: https://groups.google.com/forum/?hl=en#!forum/ciclop-3d-scanner. Regards!

Comments deleted.

Seems, I have a problem with the Camera.
When I try to connect in Linux, it says "WrongCamera". This is due to the exposure command does not work.
When disabling the check the errors are:
VIDIOC_QBUF: Invalid argument
VIDIOC_QBUF: Invalid argument
VIDIOC_QBUF: Invalid argument

In the BOM you state "Logitech HD C270" but there exist "Logitech HD C270h" and "Logitech HD C270p".
Which subtype is the correct one ? What is the VID/PID of the camera ?
mine is 046d:0825
Any help is appreciated

Hi gigl,
You need to install our custom OpenCV that fixes some V4L/OpenCV issues. Please follow these instructions: https://github.com/bq/horus/wiki/Documentation. Btw, if you are using other Linux system different from Ubuntu you can try to build your own: https://github.com/bq/opencv.

Hi byLabs, thank you for yoru hint!

In downloaded and compiled opencv-2.4.9.x-prep. It compiled much better and smoother than opencv-2.10 with cmake.
Only MD5 function was not understood by cmake. I installed into /usr, such also the Python module sits in

When I try to run horus, then I still get get

Horus 0.1.1 <<<
Connecting camera 0
Connecting camera 0
Disconnecting camera 0
Connecting camera 0
Corrupt JPEG data: 1 extraneous bytes before marker 0xd2
Corrupt JPEG data: 1 extraneous bytes before marker 0xd3
HIGHGUI ERROR: V4L2: Exposure is not supported by your device
Connecting board /dev/ttyUSB0 115200

I am using Fedora release 14 (Laughlin)

Hi gigl!
Please, follow these instructions to build our OpenCV: https://github.com/bq/horus/wiki/Documentation#build-custom-opencv.
For more issues please write in our Google Group: https://groups.google.com/forum/?hl=en#!forum/ciclop-3d-scanner.

you can not make the camera stand into 2 parts.
It is too big

16014 bearing.
70 x 110 x 13 mm

what size bearing does this use

16014 bearing. 70 x 110 x 13 mm

Have you considered the following?

  1. Using a raspberry Pi as the control board with the PI camera. Connect via Ethernet or WiFi. Add an embedded web-server to control scanner.
  2. Replace the large bearing on the turntable with a printed hexagonal plate with 6 608ZZ (skateboard) bearings attached to each face with M8 bolts.

Yes, those ideas are in our list for future versions of the device.
Thanks! :)

horus.ino the file is empty

Horus.ino is a hack that allows you to use Arduino IDE. All firmware code is contained in c and h files. It can be build also with make command.

ok thanks.
pattern calibration where is it?

Hi! All design files are in Ciclop GitHub repository. Here is the pattern: https://github.com/bq/ciclop/blob/master/svg/chessboard-pattern.svg.

Hi, where i can get stepper shield for ZUM BT-328?

The Disc-Holder is quite large ... Too large to get printed on a Flashforge or Wanhao printer :-(
Any way you can split this one into four pieces?

An "only Electronics" kit is being considered for sale and would be available soon

When can i buy the Zum scan only for this thing?

I only need the Zum no 328. or the Zum scan?

This is not the "zum scan" that !!

This is the equivalent " BQ " arduino Uno

I'd also be interested in knowing if they were going to sell an electronics only kit.

If we are here is not to buy the kit, but have the "Zum scan" to build it ...

Where can i find the zum scan shield ?

Can is use this on a imac ?

It will be available soon.

Comments deleted.

thickness of the disc? 5mm?

Comments deleted.

Can find everything but the ZUM SCAN board. Can this be bought and if so where?

Hi! We will start selling full Ciclop 3D Scanner Kit next week.

How much will it cost and will it work with Windows XP / Windows 7 ?

Hi, here is the web page of Ciclop: http://www.bq.com/gb/products/ciclop.html
Horus works for Windows 7 and 8, not in XP.

Can't find it either.

At print3dforumDOTcom you can find a user offering DIY kits with the ZUM scan board...

thank you for the tip i got the last one. again thanks