6-Pin or 10-Pin Shrouded Male Connector - IDC - Printable

by Renosis, published

6-Pin or 10-Pin Shrouded Male Connector - IDC - Printable by Renosis Apr 2, 2011
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This is a 6-Pin Shrouded Male Connector which accepts an IDC Connector. I bought some Polulu Carrier kits and only a 10-Pin Connector was included. Unfortunately, I don't have any electronics suppliers in my town and I didn't want to wait for a delivery, so I built my own.

Update: Openscad Parametric Version coming soon.

I keep meaning to learn some OpenScad so I can easily make these types of things parametric, but every time I start, I end up thinking, "Man I could get this done in like 20 seconds in Sketchup".


Pictures on the left kind of show you what to glue where. It is pretty obvious but I posted them just in case.

Noticed that some people are printing these and end up with walls that don't get filled. This is an issue with the 'extra shells' options in Skeinforge. For some reason skeinforge has trouble with small or thin objects when you have extra shells turned on. To fix this issue, set the three 'extra shells' options to 0 in the 'fill' plugin. This 'bug?!' may be fixed soon, I don't know, but it is confirmed to exist all the way up to the current version SF40 I believe.

Print the part. Get an IDC connector and stick 3 x 2 male header pins in it (picture 1). I used one with a broken clip for testing purposes just in case I was sloppy with the glue. Surround the walls of the opening in the bottom of the printed connector shroud with some ABS cement (Picture 2)(I use Plastruct Plastic Weld, which you can get in just about any hobby shop). Stick your IDC connector with the male header pins into the hole. Wait for the ABS Cement to set. I also put glue across the bottom of the assembled shroud, to get better adhesion (picture 3). Remove the IDC connector once you are sure the cement has set. And you should now have an Assembled 6 Pin Shrouded Male Connector for your Electronics Projects!

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Awesome! More vitamins added to the 'botable prints.

The shroud works just great. Prints nice. CA glues it in nicely. Plug fits nice and snug. I'm now inspired to remove pins from other connectors and attempt to make custom plugs. Additionally interesting is the idea that I might be able to print connectors directly into my enclosures.

I'm glad it worked out! I was worried that it wouldn't fit right with other people's profiles. It's such a small part that small differences in thread size can effect it quite a bit!

As for making other stuff... I've been examining all my electronics looking for new types of connectors to make. The 4 pin molex would be an easy ones. I don't know where to get pins for the stepper driver connectors. The whole point would be lost if I went and bought a bunch of the connectors to
rip them apart and make printed connectors.

Maybe if I were to buy thin copper rods I can cut to size and then I would be able to make all sorts of connectors.

I never even would have thought to just build these things into enclosure... that's brilliant!

I designed a printable latching header like the ones used to connect the Gen4 endstops. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:8814http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

Printable latching headers

@whosawhatsis - I know, I saw it! Awesome work! We need more things like these.

I want to make some small connectors like in the pic. Ignore that the pic shows both a 4pin and 3pin version of the connector. The idea is that I could easily make the male pins from header pins, but the female pins would be difficult. However the female pins super cheap. If I can get something to work I'll go ahead and buy a couple hundred of them. I could use them in a variety of different designs. For instance. I like to use JST connectors. However it is pretty common for me to have both 5V and 12V in a project. Both need connectors, but I don't like using the same connector for different voltages. If I can print up custom connectors I can use the same pins for two physically different connectors. Geez. I could even print 5V or 12V on them. haha.

One could probably just get a few rolls of different gauge electrical wire to make certain pins out of. I just measured a piece of 12 awg electrical wire against the pins of this stepper motor connector. They are about the same size. Might be better to use an alloy though, copper bends easily.

I never have these around when I need them. This is just so simple and awesome.

Maybe it's even possible to make the other end with female headers.

Well... That's an idea! I think I'll give it a go.

Well. I tried and failed. It is just too difficult to make a workable to design. 3 pin female headers are almost as wide as the shrouded connector to begin width. On top of this, it is impossible to make a crimping clip like a real IDC connector. You would have to solder each individual lead on to the female headers, which would be super annoying. If you were going to do that, you might as well just solder directly to the male pins. Then you can use some kind of terminal strip or some kind of clip on the wires. It just isn't feasible yet.

Dissapointing! :(

Where did you get the carrier from? I'm looking at using a Polulu driver for my stepper based extruder as Gen 4 stepper drivers are impossible to get hold of in the EU unless I import one where as Polulu drivers are abundant.

Is the board design open source or are there instruction for building one?

Yes, the Pololu driver and Carrier Board I believe are open source hardware. They are pretty commonly used on RepRap printers, I believe. There are instructions out there for building one without an, "official" carrier board (if that's what you would call it). I got the carrier board kit and the pololu driver from http://MakerGear.comMakerGear.com. Which is based in America, so that is not much help to you. I guarantee there are suppliers in the EU.

This is where I got the instructions for putting together this particular carrier board:


As for etching a board or something like that, I have no idea how to do all that. So I wouldn't know where the first place to look would be. As for using the Pololu Stepper
driver in a MakerBot... they work great! 1/16th Microstepping makes for much quieter operation and my ToM seems to just work a little better with it. The major benefit is you put it together yourself, so you know what kind of quality to expect from it. I was having problems with my Y axis on the M
akerBot Stepper Drivers. I suspect it is bad soldering joints or something.

Oh, and just so you know... if you are using a MakerBot. I don't know how true this is, but I heard you cannot use the Pololu Driver for the Mk6 Stepper Extruder yet. If you have a MakerBot.

You should be fine for using a pololu driver on the MK6, you would need to make a new machine profile or run the pololu at 1/8th step. I've run the MK6 motor on a gen 3 driver board, Rob's PSMD (pololu boards), and the Gen 4 driver board. ( I didn't extrude plastic on all the different versions, just run the stepper.)

I guess I heard wrong then. Makes me wish I had ordered four now. I would have replaced my stepper driver for my mk6.

Yep...let's see how many checkboxes this might tick for someone thinking about getting a 3D printer.

  • You usually need only one, or a few

  • When you need it, you probably need it now (or 10 minutes from now)

  • It's tiny and fast to print

  • Probably costs less than a penny in plastic, would cost you 30 or 40 times that. Over printer lifetime it could really save you money by printing these minor detail objects.

Yeah, it's really small but, I guess technically it gets rid of one of those 'vitamin' parts. I guess I'll make a 10-pin one too.

Great job, this is what the Makerbot is all about. :)

We need more things like this! Gotta love connector making via a 3D printer! :-D