Wild River 240 (CoreXY concept)

by Flax65 Apr 7, 2015
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

Funciona com tubos de 19,2mm?

Hi, very good job, I could upload the firmware to configure the machine. Thank you

How sturdy is the bed design? I would like to uwe a mirror to print on (4mm thick)
What would be a good way to Mount it?

Can you upload the sketchup file of the printer with the parts in place? Is to see where goes every part for making the assembly. Thank you.

whats the print area?

240x160 mm

The size may be increased
I recently made a printer with print area 290x210 mm same design


What's the dimensions of the box section that you used to get 290 x 210 ?

Awesome! Going to look to scale to 100x100x100 if that's OK with you?


Thanks for this elegant design. I am printing the PLA parts but most of the 3D files are corrupt., event after re exporting from sketchup file. I am using slic3r.

Would you please re upload some fixed version? Many thanks!

Genius. are the tube connector still working for you ?

After 14 month is still working
my experience best is with
PLA 25% infill 1mm tickness

Be calm (before start I'm assuming you've used the Arduino Mega Ramps + 1.4)
I had to suffer a lot before you understand how to configure the machine.
I can tell you that the motors during travel x or y rotate both this is normal.
but if they are wired incorrectly the movement may be completely wrong.
Looking at the machine front, the left motor should be connected to Ramps card in the connector for the motor X
the right motor must be connected to the Ramps card in the connector for the motor Y.
The polarity must be respected both the connectors of the two engines should have the red wire facing the same direazione (see photo)

Remember to rebuild the files I sent you and then upload to arduino
Last but not least the path of the belts must be right see photos

Comments deleted.

hey thanks for the software , the printer still behaving strangely , when I jog y + to move the gantry from me but chased together moves x to -x , the same thing if I jog x such moves y ,

Core XY motion Equation and kinematics

Marlin Support CoreXY

i use Marlin
need some setting in configuration,h

just to start i can share my files used with my machine (see in things files )

let me know ,,,

hello is there anyone who can share firmware please.
will not work, when I jog y then moves both x and y
which of them front motors are y and x

Super, très bien fait !
y love it !!!!

hello can you repair the files . i geting error in all most all files

It's a great design, but those printed X_Carriage bearings are a pain in the neck for me. I made the printer a little bigger (500x500x500) and those little b.......rds won't run on the smooth rods...
Can you modify the file to exchange the printed LB with an LM8UU please?

Thanks and keep upthe good mood.

Ok I finaly found time to test New parts they works much better as old version
thanks to help me to improve project

Hi Biomushroom

Now you can download the fileS to exchange the printed LB with an LM8UU

I have not time to print and test this version but will be ok let me know


Hello the machine you see in the photos and video works without classic bearings
Can happen axis jamming problems but are almost always caused by incorrect alignment / squaring of the two axes XY or by a asymmetrical tensioning of the transmission belts.

However, I acknowledge that probably the classic bearings provide more mechanical mounting tolerances

At the moment I have no time to make the change you ask maybe we look at the WE.

If you want and if you use SketchUp you can download the file and make the changes
in the download section you can find the source files .SKP of all parts

Firmware, can you put here?

Great jiob.
Thanks, Obrigado.

Beautiful design, I was designing a similar approach, but i've got not so much time... Well, you do it quite good. The only two things I don't like, are the Z axis constructions (the part related to the bed) that seems a little bit too weak for big scaling like 400x400x400 build area, and the positioning of the extruder that make the PTFE tube a little too long for a good retraction settings.
But in the others parts, dude, you do a really great job.

I think everyone will be happy to see this project turned into OpenSCAD format, parametric and scalable. Think about it... And if u need it, I can help.


Well about Z axis I use alluminium bar to increse stifnes , i see that more of accuracy it deepd of bearing quality (precision coupling bearing rod) in my experience 180x240 work great , may be with 400x400 could be necessary chenge design aproach i agree.
Hower consider that this is not a CNC machine so the load is very low .

Second Thingh about extruder Bowden i use 700 mm tube (the trick is use high pressure oil lubrification tube) and no problem
with retraction. Just increse a bit the retraction course .

Yes you are right
Thanks for reporting
I corrected the description to "Smooth Rod"

Hey. In the BOM you write "threaded rods 8mm" but I guess you mean precision steel rods?

I'm building my own! But I want 200x300x300 build volume. So, what should be the measures of the square tubes for this size?

Would be nice for a 15x15mm tubes.
But nice job.

Hello i use PLA , all parts 25% infill CURA as Slicer software

I put today a revision of some parts to use standars market Microswitch instead


Hello. I am build one print of this. I want know the infill percentage recommended for the printed pieces.

Hello! First great work!, I think this is the first DIY 3D printer which I have seen that uses this frame type and it doesn't use aluminum profile

How solid is the frame?
Do you get good prints?
You think it could be made bigger? around 400x400x400mm (16in) or you would recommend against it?
What would you improve if you made another one?

If you could post a video that would rock.
Sorry to bombard you with questions, but you inspired me to make my own 3d printer

Thank you, for your review

My idea, my goal was to create a machine with materials readily available in any hardware store.
Hence the ida to create the structure with square bars of aluminum.
History aside (maybe even a little boring) I can say that the structure has a good rigidity, but at high printing speed the inertia of carriage induced oscillations so i then inserted a pair of diagonal braces.
I can tell you that with the current size of the structure even when printing at full speed, it works fine of course if you want an excellent print quality, then we go to about 85/90% of the maximum.
I also have plans to build a larger machine .How is the limit I can not say we should do a simulation but I think you do first to build a prototype.
The thing that worries me most is not the structure, but the movement system XY think performance is largely attributable to the quality of belt, there are now two parts to 1.5 meters each, I refer to the elasticity of the belts same that could influence the operation.
Finally based on experience and other projects seen I think a 300x200 (print area) to work with the components that I have designed and used.

You wrote 400x400x400, you meant the final dimensions of the machine i suppose ?
My my machine has dimensions 455X300X315 with a print volume of about 240x150x165 (XYZ)

With 440x440x440 (machine) would have a print volume 230x290x295 (XYZ).
I have some doubts on the machine height but with a pair of diagonal more should be fine.

Yes, I will post a video just understand how to do (I ask for help to my children) :-)

I made some changes to some parts to use cheaper limit switches ,

May you provide a dual hotend vertion and a PG35L dual extruder file? please...

When will the instructions become available?

damn me I should make a video while I mounted the machine.
I just posted a preliminary BOM
As soon as I find some time I'll post the instructions

be patient not much free time, I will try to post them this week

You can share the leng ot tubes?

I just entered the BOM

Nice job brother!!!
But the cat seems a little bit perplexed....

He is the chief engineer is checking that everything is in order.

Nice work!
Do you drill holes in the 20x20 alluminium tubes to make sure they stay in place?
How can you assure the structure is perfectly parallel & square? thanks and congrats, it's a really effective design

Good question.
initially I had the same question, then when I assembled the aluminum tubes with plastic link I realized that the structure put itself in square virtually alone.
the important thing is that the length of the tubes is precise enough + - 0.5 mm. then the links of plastic will do the rest.
In addition, the accuracy of the frame is not so important because it is when you assembling XY that axes squaring automatically.
I'll explain how I did it then it :
Before assembling the X axis then mounts the two front corner and the two rear corner add Y road
At this point you manually move back and forth on the Y direction in this way the rod automaticamnte become parallel, at this point it is necessary to fix the two rear corner ,make two holes with tip 2.5 mm helping with the hole in the corner part then using a male M3 threads and finally put the screws.
I assure you that it is easier to do than explain
All corners are ready to be mounted with screws but it is necessary to do only for rear, otherwise when you put the belt and you tend corner wil move too.

bella domanda .
inizialmente mi sono posto la stessa domanda ,poi quando ho assemblato i tubi di alluminio con i link di plastica mi sono reso conto che la struttura si mette in squadra praticamente da sola.
la cosa importante è che la lunghezza dei tubi sia abbastanza precisa +- 0.5 mm . poi i link di plastica faranno il resto.
Inoltre la precisione del telaio non è cosi importante perche è quando monti gli assi XY che ottieni la squadratura in automatico.
Ti spiego come ho fatto poi lo inseriro anche nelle istruzioni.
Prima si assembla l'asse X poi monti i due corner anteriori e i due corner posteriori inserisci le barre di scorrimento Y.
A questo punto fai muovere manualmente avanti e indietro sulla direzione Y in questo modo automaticamnte le rod diventano parallele, quindi fatto questo occorre fissare i due corner posteriori fai due fori con punta da 2.5 mm aiutandoti con i foro presenti nel corner parte poi usando un maschio M3 filetti ed infine metti le viti.
Ti assicuro che è piu facile farlo che spiegarlo
Tutti i corner sono predisposti per il fissaggio con viti ma è necessario farlo sono quelli posteriori ,altrimenti quando si mette la cinghia e la si tende si spostano

Please post instructions and a BOM soon. I've been thinking abut building a coreXY type machine since it has several advantages over the 'Mendel' style Repraps, such as smaller desk footprint and can be fully enclosed to better print ABS. I've also looked at the Smartcore design, which can be modified with a top and front door to be enclosed, but I like the idea of a meta framework too. I also better like the idea of a screw driven Z platform over the belt drive.

BTW I've found some nylon spaces with a 3/8" ID at Homedepot which would make good bearings for use with common 3/8" steel rod that they also sell. Any chance of getting source for the parts that would need to change to use these?

Thanks for the interest proved.
In fact I already had plans to post the BOM but also the source of the parts (made with SketchUp)
But first I wanted to arrange and organize the drawings in a slightly more professional to allow all those who want to use them to have a good material.
This weekend I will try to finish and post it all.
Stay tuned

do you have the stl files for the plastic corners that join the tubes?

I forgot to publish it, now I have entered
Attention remember to set the touching buil support plate to print properly

Thanks for reporting