#3DBenchy - The jolly 3D printing torture-test by CreativeTools.se
by CreativeTools, published
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Summary
#3DBenchy is a 3D model designed by us at CreativeTools specifically for testing and benchmarking 3D printers. It is a small recognisable object that you can download for free, make and share.
It is designed to 3D-print quickly and be a fun tool for calibrating your 3D printer. There is a single-part STL file for 3D printing the boat in one material, and a multi-part STL assembly to suitable for multi-material/printhead 3D printing.
Documenting the results
You can use the Smartphone Photo Studio for 3DBenchy to easily take photos and share the results of your 3D print. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1085472
Makes
- If you desire, please take pictures and post them here as makes with a short description of your 3D-print settings. For more information about 3D-print settings please read this post.
Troubleshooting and community
If you want to get help please join the online communities below. You will find our 3D printing experts at CreativeTools and the enthusiastic maker community there.
You can visit 3DBenchy.com for more information on how to use #3DBenchy.
You can also search the internet to find more about #3DBenchy.
Follow the #3DBenchy boat on ...
- ... Youtube
- ... Flickr
- ... Google+
- ... Tumblr
- ... Wikipedia page
- ... Telegram Channel
By Creative Tools
Home - Youtube - Things - #3DBenchy - GooglePlus - Twitter - Facebook - Instructables - Instagram - Pinterest - Flickr - LinkedIn"
https://youtu.be/_epwuDI9FBI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hlATeBRlB9E
Accessories
Benchy Float Accesories by dsb007
Smoke for #3DBenchy boat by akira3dp0
Smartphone Photo Studio for #3DBenchy and tiny stuff
Wave stand by Furnibird for the #3DBenchy jolly 3D printing torture-test
Tom's 3DBenchy rudder stand V2 (12 ships) By tomulinek
LEGO-compatible #3DBenchy
From Failure Comes Knowledge Maker Coin
3DBenchy inspired "learning by failing" maker coin designed by Vicky Somma
Flag for #3DBenchy by Alexander Thomas
Download it from http://thingiverse.com/thing:2051483
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Just did a print of this. For the most part it come out ok but not perfect. Need to adjust retraction a little. But my main issue is I can't tell if my PLA temp is too high or what. In spots it looks like my layers are not nice and even in spots (around the door) and I'm not sure what could cause this. I'm very new to 3D printing any advice would be awsome. My setting are .2 layer height printing speed 50mm/sec temp at 190 and 58 for bed. Retraction at 4mm and retraction speed 80mm/sec. I also had cooling on.
Here are two more photos, they are not the best it turns out real glossy.
Wonder ing if you could help me understand how you designed the lettering on the bottom to print? I would like to do something similar but not anything to do with your Benchy which BTW printed great for me.
Thanks in advance for your help if you can..
Thanks for asking this question. The lettering was designed using a text tool in a CAD software and then extruded into the surface of the boat.
Ah ha! Thank you very much. I knew it was too simple to concept. Brain fart I guess. Thank you!
there is someone posing as you saying that they designed the original benchy and requesting donations. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2823395. just figured id put that out there.
Thanks, nixon1237, for noting this! We appreciate your vigilance and help.
The original #3DBenchy can be found at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:763622 and http://3dbenchy.com
Are you only interested in such extreme cases and not interested in taking down all the derivatives out there? By not enforcing it you are teaching others to not care about any license conditions, in my opinion. Since this is such a popular item, you have a responsibility, again in my opinion.
Anyone else having a problem with this print? I've had 3 fail not at the exact same spot about 75% of the way through.
Hey. @CreativeTools (and those who care about protecting content creators)
Join the fun over here. :) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2550178/#comments
... maybe consider weighing in to defend your design (or decide to drop the -ND part for the benefit of everyone wanting to make derivatives, that would be cool too) Either way the open community will be hurt by being sloppy about these things...
I've printed that but I had a lot of problems. The first 2 prints stopt. Just the third print look a littel bit better.
I've printed with a anet a8. The first 2 prints with 210 °C and the third with 200°C. The first two where printet with repetier Host and the third with cura. At the last print the chimney did not print correctly. Also there are some layers without material. Can anybody help me?
Thanks for sharing this image. It looks like the cooling fan is not efficient enough.
We recommend you check out a couple of user groups for #3DBenchy.
Also, Reddit has reddit.com/r/3DPrinting and reddit.com/r/FixMyPrint.
hello, I trie to print this boat but each time my printer stopped before printing the top of the boat (see photos)
if the printer just freezing at that position or is it acting like it completed the print the issue could be that there isn't enough space on the sd card. If the extruder starts jamming and clicking it means you are likely using the wring print settings for your filament. (i.e. the extruder retracts there faster than usual and causes the extruder to jam)
Printed from CCTREE Red ABS. Extruder temp 240, on a raft over ABS slurry. Initial bed temp 110 dropping to 100 degrees C. No fan, raft air gap .18. Used .2mm for print. Enclosed CR-10S. Enclosure made from 3/4" blue sheathing. Internal temp 110 degrees F.
It looks better in person than the photo gives credit. Very happy with it and my wife is going to take it to work with her to set on her desk.
Hi, Matthew!
Thanks for sharing the image of your #3DBenchy! It certainly looks very nice – especially since it is printed in ABS, which is not the easiest material to work with.
Cant get this to slice with Simplify3D :(
It stalls at "Calculating Infill" and never finishes.
Tried slicing at 10% and 20% infill. No joy.
1.2mm wall. 100% size.
Any ideas?
Nevermind. Found the fix: turn off Internal Thin Wall Type = Allow Single Extrusion Fill
My attempt at Benchy was going really well, up to the level of the deck, then came unstuck from the bed. The bed is heated at 60 degrees, I'm printing with PLA and an Anet A8 clone printer. Nozzle was at 200 degrees. Any suggestions?
i have an anet a8 i print at 70c bed and use blue tape and a glue stick!
and a raft
Try using some hair spray on the bed to get it to stick better, i have an a8 and works like a charm
I tried a lot of the sticking methods and had virtually no luck either.
I use a CR-10 with a glass bed.. Use appropriate measures if the material you're printing to is different.
I started to use (long story but I'm a type 1 diabetic with a knowledge of adhesives that are skin safe, and what cleans them off) 'skin tac'.
It's an alcohol based adhesive for use on the skin. It dries in seconds and leaves a tacky residue that stays tacky for long enough to work.
When the print bed cools, it releases. You return to your print to find it not stuck at all if it's had time to cool down. If it remains hot, it continues to stick.
Dry stuff that has heated and cooled dries to a powdery residue. built up stuff removes with acetone or alcohol.
Get the bottle kind as it has a swab like applicator. Amazon has it.
I haven't used anything else since. It works every time way better than anything else I've tried.
It will adhere to the plastic after a print where it meets the bed. You can clean it off with alcohol. Don't use acetone on the plastics, only on the glass.
BTW, 60 is fine.. I tend to start a print a little bit hotter, as I feel it helps the first layers to really stick, and then stay with 60 myself too.
Hope this helps :)
Paul Van Gaans, running the YouTube channel Print Very Good, made this eloquent video, explaining his use of the #3DBenchy STL file for calibrating his 3D-printing settings.
http://www.3dbenchy.com/paul-van-gaans-explains-his-use-of-3dbenchy/
For those who like to play with graphics, we have published high-res renderings of a low-res polygon mesh illustration of #3DBenchy. Please see below:
http://www.3dbenchy.com/download-low-res-3dbenchy-wireframe-illustration/
Just printed the boat twice.
Both the printer skips a Level by printing the chimney at the high of the top end of the roof.
Just printed a LARGE Benchy Scaled 275% and it came out FANTASTIC!
Layer Height = 0.30mm
Print Speed = 50 mm/s
Nozzle Temp = 180 deg C
Bed Temp = 60 deg C
Fill Density = 10%
Check out my timelapse video of the print! https://youtu.be/QWIobD_LNAo
I typically print at 50mm/s speed and 5mm distance for retraction
3d benchy printed on India's first low cost 3d printer. Price starting at $190.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QGDGRumYGBI
Our website : www.garuda3d.com
Thanks
I know a lot of people have printed this boat successfully, So I'm going to guess my problem is mostly a slicer problem. I am using Slic3r (1.37.2 Prusa edition) with my Prusa MK2S. I am attempting to print the two color version of the Benchy Model. The printer does a great job of printing Benchy up until about the base of the port holes. at that point I get a gap of several layers. The port hole it'self prints just fine, but the hull has the gap. Using the "Preview" function in Slic3r, I also see the gap. IT looks like the slicer is just not converting the file corrrectly.Thing is, it also occurs on my CEL-Robox printer, and the Robox warns that there are mesh problems that may cause it to print incorrectly.
I also get errors when I bring Benchy into meshmixer. Is there another version of the STL files that people have been printing?
HELP
Everything seems ok when printing until it gets to the bottom of the circular window at the rear and becomes very weak for a few layers then goes back to normal. I have tried higher temps, lower speeds, different filament and it's always the exact same thing in the same place, any ideas would be greatly appreciated!
exact same issue. What splicer are you using? I'm using simplify 3d with my tevo tornado. Wonder if you solved the issue?
3DBenchy has reached more than 2000 makes here on Thingiverse! Read more about the origins and purpose of this boat at http://ow.ly/nxz830gh4xd
Met heel veel dank aan creative tools
With a lot of thanks to creative tools
Love the benchy. thank you!
UPDATE: I printed again with same settings, came out flawlessly.
I made one, printed quite well except the strange issue around layer 35. Any thoughts? I may print again with same settings just to see if it was a fluke. https://www.thingiverse.com/make:382221
Creality CR-10 using Craftware slicer.
.2 mm layer
19% infill
60 mm/s
200 nozzle
60 bed
2 loops
3 top and bottom layers
Artifacts only appeared on one side of the hull. Any ideas?
Testing HIPS
Layer Height .2mm
Print Speed: 50
Nozzel Temp 240
Bed Temp 110
Fill 20%
Retraction changed from 1mm to 2mm
Slic3r is still unhappy with the dualprint hull v02 file. It reports thousands of mesh errors. After Slic3r's auto-repair there are errors in the geometry, including a hole in the front deck. It hasn't sliced correctly for me yet. Slic3r has crashed several times when I try to add in the other dualprint file. Here's a screen capture.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0CdGGiYX3HVdTNFSnl2Qlowcm8/view?usp=sharing
I'm having the same problems. I tried to repair using Blender and mesh mixer, but there's too many triangles near those holes, like 100's of thousands. Anyone got a good STL?
Yeah. If only could print this in multicolor. It prints all but the hull.
No point printing it without some recommended settings.
Whats best for a .4 nozzle using PLA?
How about .3 layer 200deg at 30mm//sec?
I will plug that in and check print time?
Hey, I linked your thing to my blog post!
Check it out!
https://3dprinterchat.com/2017/07/top-10-popular-models-thingiverse/
Just printed this Benchy model on my Monoprice Maker Ultimate 3D printer http://amzn.to/2o2sDQU. For my first try, overall I think it came out really good! The print settings I used were:
Layer Height = 0.20mm
Print Speed = 20 mm/s
Nozzle Temp = 180 deg C
Bed Temp = 60 deg C
Fill Density = 10%
With just a few minor adjustments I think I can get an even better print so that it comes out perfect. I created a timelapse video of the print:
Let me know what you think, and if you have any recommendations to fine tune the quality. Thanks CreativeTools for a great model!
Mine didn't turn out great, but certainly better than what I'd expected.
The layers weren't perfectly consistent, and there were ripples on each corner, common for my printer.
Just standard printer issues I imagine, nothing too serious, but help would be appreciated.
Layer height - .2mm
Nozzle diameter .3mm
Perimeters - 50mm/s; external perimeters at 40mm/s
https://www.thingiverse.com/make:355338
My first about 10 layers look really rough while the rest of the print looks really great. Does anyone know what that could be? I used PLA Verbatim at 205 C nozzle temp with the bed at 50 C. I also use Cura and these settings: Layer height: 200 microns (0,2 mm)
Shells-Perimmeters: 3
Infill: 20%
Top/Bottom layers: 5
Print speed: 50 mm/s
with the default on High Detail.
Hopefully someone knows what's going on.
https://www.thingiverse.com/make:349908
I would suspect you had a partial nozzle clog, maybe some dust or plastic, than eventually came loose.
using a filament filter will greatly improve this, I have had 0 clogs in over 2 years after implementing a filter.
so simple, would never print without one.
I have these on every roll, add to squares of yellow sponge and 2-3 drops of mineral oil... good for a long time. pull off every couple weeks remove dirt and back to business.
Definitely looks like cooling issue. Did you have the fan off for the first 20-30 layers?
Well here are my results... https://www.thingiverse.com/make:345355
Not really happy with the first print. Can someone give me a hint to improve?
https://www.thingiverse.com/make:339856
Also, looks like only half of the ship was printed, not sure, why.
Thanks,
Marton
It looks like you might not have proper cooling and/or over extrusion. Also it may be some settings in your slicer.
Generally happy with mine, any suggestions for improvement?
http://www.thingiverse.com/make:336588
Check out this amazing #3DBenchy made of solid brass metal!
Drop the temperature (if you can), Add or up the retraction settings slightly, or slow down the print speed.
Any ideas?
Always happend when overhang is started.
We have uploaded a new version of one of the dual print #3DBenchy files. Users printing with the Slic3r software noted that features in the STL file did not process correctly. The new STL file below addresses this issue.
- 3DBenchy_-Dualprint-_Hull_Box_Bridge_walls_Rod-holder_Chimneyv02-_3DBenchy.com.stl
@CreativeTools I challenge you to print my Test right here!
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2124664
Anyone know what is creating this failure? QIDI Tech one default values, pla 215c print temp. Ever since I swapped to this hatchbox pla white I have had constant failures almost at this point every time I printed this benchy on both left and right extruder. On the right extruder (this was done on left) It was skipping a layer just under the anchor port that went through the whole print. It was printing the infill it just was skipping the outer layer. I Had no issues in the past printing benchys on this printer but suddenly cropped up as soon as I went to this new material.
I have spent countless hours since Thursday trying to figure this out and its driving me crazy I just can not for the life of me figure out why its doing what its doing.
Can we have a version without the text on the bottom? Its impossible to get ti to stick and it just drags and ruins the rest of the first layer,
I have the same issue, it is extremely annoying.
You have to tune your Z-axis perfectly if you want it to stick.
What materials have you guys been using to print this? Has anyone compared one to the other for a better print?
. #3DBenchy is designed to be made in all kinds of materials. The most common 3D-printing material today for desktop 3D printers is PLA filament - which we used to 3D-print the green #3DBenchy in the main image for this thing.
You can make #3DBenchy without support on filament- or powder-based 3D printer. If you use a resin-based you will need to let the slicing software add supports.
Since my Slic3r settings generate supports, I just need to disable them, correct?
What's the recommended setting for this? layer height? infill? shell thickness? and so on.....please help
You should be able to print #3DBenchy with your printer's standard software settings. We usually 3D-print it as follows:
- Layer height: 200 microns (0,2 mm)
- Shells-Perimmeters: 3
- Infill: 15%
- Top layers: 5
- Bottom layers: 4
- Print speed: 50 mm/s
This setting defines how thick the bottom and top "cap" of the 3D printed part should be. See it as a wall thickness separating the inner sparsely filled volume of the printed part, from the outside surrounding air.
Thanks for your reply CreativeTools.
I've printed mine as well as uploaded the images. Really appreciate if you can comment on my picture as I can't attached it here.
Thank you so much!
Im printing this again in flexible Taulman PCTPE Right now. Looking great! If anyone reading this uses PCTPE, ALWAYS, EVERY SINGLE TIME, MAKE SURE YOU USE A GLUE STICK ON THE PRINT BED. Or else, it will NOT STICK AT ALL.
Ryankimharrison
Thanks for sharing your best practice for TCTPE Ryan! :)
The Prusa i3 is a good one. The one I have cost about $300 (i do not know if it is US money or Canadian money.)
There are many 3D-printers on the market now. To get started with 3D printing the easiest way, we would suggest that you get a 3D-printer that can use PLA filament and has a part-cooling fan (very important). :)
I noticed you have remixes disabled and no derivatives. But I took this design and made it into a Rock Wall Hold, would you be interested in it at all?
Hi Jimmy! :)
Thanks for your comment. We released #3DBenchy as a Creative Commons NoDerivatives file, just because it is supposed to be used as a standard measuring tool for 3D printers, materials and settings. Therefore for best comparison results the same file should be used.
Nevertheless we love the creative ideas from the user community and welcome cool and fun alternative uses for #3DBenchy! We made a dedicated pages on Thingiverse to host and honour the work and remixes of enthusiasts. (see http://thingiverse.com/thing:1906745).
If you could provide us the file at [email protected] we would love to see it and republish it with attribution to you!
:)
Why is it called a torture test if its not really torture? Just curious. Printed just fine on my lulzbot mini
Thanks for your question Ryan. In 3D printing we usually use the term "torture test" to describe a 3D file that in some ways reveals any deviations from the original 3D shape to the final 3D-printed object.
We designed #3DBenchy to have as many revealing types of shapes as possible and still be a small recognisable object that people can relate to - and at the end (after roughly 1 hour 3D printing) one also has a small desktop decoration toy. :) Like a souvenir of the 3D printer, material and software settings.
I can also be helpful to mention that when we use #3DBenchy, the prints come out quite nicely, but when we compare several prints with various machines or settings, the differences appear more clearly.
Oh OK I see. Its kind of like a calibration print for your 3d printer. Thanks
It surprised me that there are no printable attributes yet that can be inserted in the rod hole at the rear, so I made one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2051483
It is a useful test to test tolerances, but aside from this it also just allows everyone to decorate their pile of #3DBenchies!
Thanks for making the flag accessory and sharing it. We love it! :)
Thanks for your comment. If you mean the green #3DBenchy as the main image - we 3D-printed it on a MakerBot Replicator 2 using Add3D Premium PLA filament.
Sure! :)
You can see the MakerBot Replicator 2 in action at https://youtu.be/nRtuX-3ACxU
This 3D printer is not manufactured anymore. The new upgraded model of the Replicator 2 is the Replicator+ (see this link: https://goo.gl/b7YZPh)
Anyone know why the roof and chimney section won't print? Everything up to that point seems fine and then it does the 4 pillars but doesn't join them and just stops extruding? 3 attempts and they've all failed at that exact point. Very frustrating!
It probably happens because the retraction on your extruder accentuate a fault in the hardware design. Some extruders start to jam and clog up at that part of #3DBenchy because the flow of filament no longer is continuous.
You can upload images to #3DBenchy groups so that we can see the result.
I've been getting ripples on the side that follow the contours of edges and the holes in front anyone have any suggestions
When I downloaded this 3D benchy I was just expecting the 3D file for this boat. When I downloaded this file it gave me over 30 different files. I was not expecting this and I don't know if you did too when you downloaded this file, but overall my benchy printed on my Sindoh 3DWOX printer came out great even on a .4mm layer hight!
When I downloaded this 3D benchy I was just expecting the 3D file for this boat. When I downloaded this file it gave me over 30 different files. I was not expecting this and I don't know if you did too when you downloaded this file, but overall my benchy printed on my Sindoh 3DWOX printer came out great even on a .4mm layer hight!
When I downloaded this 3D benchy I was just expecting the 3D file for this boat. When I downloaded this file it gave me over 30 different files. I was not expecting this and I don't know if you did too when you downloaded this file, but overall my benchy printed on my Sindoh 3DWOX printer came out great even on a .4mm layer hight!
When I downloaded this 3D benchy I was just expecting the 3D file for this boat. When I downloaded this file it gave me over 30 different files. I was not expecting this and I don't know if you did too when you downloaded this file, but overall my benchy printed on my Sindoh 3DWOX printer came out great even on a .4mm layer hight!
When I downloaded this 3D benchy I was just expecting the 3D file for this boat. When I downloaded this file it gave me over 30 different files. I was not expecting this and I don't know if you did too when you downloaded this file, but overall my benchy printed on my Sindoh 3DWOX printer came out great even on a .4mm layer hight!
When I downloaded this 3D benchy I was just expecting the 3D file for this boat. When I downloaded this file it gave me over 30 different files. I was not expecting this and I don't know if you did too when you downloaded this file, but overall my benchy printed on my Sindoh 3DWOX printer came out great even on a .4mm layer hight!
When I downloaded this 3D benchy I was just expecting the 3D file for this boat. When I downloaded this file it gave me over 30 different files. I was not expecting this and I don't know if you did too when you downloaded this file, but overall my benchy printed on my Sindoh 3DWOX printer came out great even on a .4mm layer hight!
When I downloaded this 3D benchy I was just expecting the 3D file for this boat. When I downloaded this file it gave me over 30 different files. I was not expecting this and I don't know if you did too when you downloaded this file, but overall my benchy printed on my Sindoh 3DWOX printer came out great even on a .4mm layer hight!
When I downloaded this 3D benchy I was just expecting the 3D file for this boat. When I downloaded this file it gave me over 30 different files. I was not expecting this and I don't know if you did too when you downloaded this file, but overall my benchy printed on my Sindoh 3DWOX printer came out great even on a .4mm layer hight!
When I downloaded this 3D benchy I was just expecting the 3D file for this boat. When I downloaded this file it gave me over 30 different files. I was not expecting this and I don't know if you did too when you downloaded this file, but overall my benchy printed on my Sindoh 3DWOX printer came out great even on a .4mm layer hight!
Thanks Smoglia03 for your feedback. The files here are a collection of different ways to use #3DBenchy for testing 3D printers, such as multi-colour 3D-printing.
The easiest way to download the single version of #3DBenchy is by this URL: http://download.3DBenchy.com
I depends on what kind of 3D printer and settings you use. Typically a #3DBenchy with standard 200 micron layer height, two perimeters and 10% infill, prints in about 60 to 90 minutes.
everything until the 4 pillars prints fine but at the 4 pillars it just gets really un scharp also the small cylinder on the back didn't print at all
do you know what causes this
i have a 0.4 mm nozzle and used 4 layers shell thickness
everything until the 4 pillars prints fine but at the 4 pillars it just gets really un scharp also the small cylinder on the back didn't print at all
do you know what causes this
i have a 0.4 mm nozzle and used 4 layers shell thickness
everything until the 4 pillars prints fine but at the 4 pillars it just gets really un scharp also the small cylinder on the back didn't print at all
do you know what causes this
i have a 0.4 mm nozzle and used 4 layers shell thickness
Can anyone help me to figure out what should I do with this? http://imgur.com/a/jkjpd Printed with ABS at 230C / 105C hotbed and 0.1mm layer height.
That 3DBenchy with holes in it looks like a shipwreck! :)
How much infill were you using? and what were the thickness of the upper layer?
10% infill, with 2 layers on the top. Should I use more?
At the layer-height of 0.1 mm the top solid layers will only theoretically generate a very thin roof of 0.2 mm - the same thickness as a two sheets of paper.
Try changing the settings so that you use 6 top solid layers or maybe more. The same goes for the bottom layers.
Makes sense. Should have seen this earlier. Hahaha. Thank you!
Can anyone help me to figure out what should I do with this? http://imgur.com/a/jkjpd Printed with ABS at 230C / 105C hotbed and 0.1mm layer height.
Looks like the temperature of the material was too hot as well as lacking enough solid top layers. Feel free to check out the #3DBenchy groups where 3D printing enthusiasts help and give advice. :) http://www.3dbenchy.com/follow/
Awesome model for my first successful print using the dual extrusion on my new Ultimaker 3. PVA supports dissolved in water, if only the boat floated upright!
Awesome model for my first successful print using the dual extrusion on my new Ultimaker 3. PVA supports dissolved in water, if only the boat floated upright!
Dear CreativeTools,
we are captains, admirals, pirates… thanks to #3DBenchy fleets all over the world. And as we use it as the 3D printing benchmarking model, we need a stand for our fleet also. I made one as a tribute to your work: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1925678. :)
Off to the battle, sailors!
We love the accessory you made for #3DBenchy! Perfect for displaying a dozen ships! Thanks for making this and sharing the file. :)
Problem with Dual color, the top color seems to be off target with the hull, every thing is off by about a mm on the port side which causes drooping on the side railing, any advice? I'm using a E3d chimera, on a prusa i3, it had me thinking my left size might not be perfectly aligned with the right side, but with the chimera only being 18mm from nozzle to nozzle shouldn't have this big of a impact.
Hi tibuck,
Make sure that both STL files are perfectly aligned in your slicing software. It is common that when importing each file, that some programs don't regard the original position of each STL file.
If they are correctly aligned, then any deviation in your 3D print is due to a mechanical or firmware/software issue.
I am using simplify3d with the dual extrusion wizard, I have tried printing other items such as the Makerbot cup cake and a few different Dual color calibrations, Everything checks out but the Benchy, honestly I would know where to begin to align them manually. I have very recently upgrade my Marlin firmware to the last RC& bugfix So perhaps it could be related as for mechanical I did go though and made sure all was aligned and tight. has anyone else using Simplify3d mention this sort of problem ?
Hello!
I'm a student trying to innovate within the growing 3-D printing industry and I was wondering if anybody could fill out this quick survey to help me gather some data. Any responses are helpful, Thanks!
https://docs.google.com/a/d155.org/forms/d/15aMr8mPJYWNf4cVked2GQYF0S49rLq9kr6fmUGu8x_I/edit
The dualprint STLs have a lot of errors. Microsoft's STL fixing service can't repair one of them, and KISSlicer doesn't know what to do with them. Can you upload fixed versions? Thanks!
Thanks for your comment. The dualprint STL files have common issues created and found in polygon modelling software. We chose to leave these present in the files so that the makers of 3D printing software could use them as samples for automatically healing models with "errors". Today some slicers fix the errors without problems and other slicers can't.
You can import the dualprint STLs into https://www.netfabb.com/ or http://meshmixer.com and fix them there and then export them to your 3D printing software.
While I appreciate your stance on using this as a test case, it causes problems in slicers people use every day. It would be appreciated if you uploaded a fixed STL alongside the bad STL. This way you accomplish your goal of providing a test and users, like me who use Linux primarily, aren't stuck trying to find a Windows machine to run Netfabb or MeshMixer.
Thank you for the hard work on these models, they are a fun benchmark!
Deleting redundant comment. Save comment but does nothing to indicate it was clicked.
Could someone please advise the wall thickness that this is optimally designed for? I'm currently using a line width of 0.4 with a 0.4mm nozzle and then using a 1.2mm wall width, but it seems to be slightly off in terms of not really looking right. There are slight gaps in between the walls in certain places and the hole on the top at the back is pretty poor quality as its only 2 walls at that point.
Hi samuel235!
Thanks for posting the question. The outer wall perimeters tend to differ somewhat depending on the kind of slicer software used. If you want you can post images of your print as a make http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:763622/#made. You can also post them on the #3DBenchy Facebook Group (https://www.facebook.com/groups/3DBenchy) or Google+ (https://plus.google.com/u/1/communities/115261440450659130664)
I'm not sure what you're telling me here. Are you just telling me to post my results to a community thread for discussion and skipping over the question of "What wall thickness is this model designed to work with" or are you asking me to post the issue i have for others to discuss?
I can only guess that i made an error in the software maybe, but i can't see one tbh. I very much doubt that this would be an issue no matter the wall thickness i define as its down to my software to then determine if it needs to fill the walls in.
Thank you for your response samuel235. The reason why we suggested the social media groups for #3DBenchy is that it is not technically possible to attach images here on the comment area of Thingiverse. Any image or images that show how your printed #3DBenchy looks like, would give us so much more possibilities to help.
It is also a matter of definition and we want to make sure we completely understand your question and can reply with good advice. There are a few different wall thicknesses in the 3D file but there is also wall thickness in the 3D printing Gcode and the final printed model - meaning the thickness of plastic that separates the outside from the sparsely filled inside.
In most common print settings with a filament-based 3D printer, the wall thickness is made of two perimeters of 0.4 mm each. This can be adjusted and vary depending of what kind of slicing software is used.
Any access to images of your prints, or the actual sliced print files you have, as well as more information about your printer, filament, etc - would help us more to help.
I appreciate your time to reply, however my question was just simply asking for advice in regards to what the file was designed to print best with, that is all. I don't wish to have others tell me what is wrong with my print as i'm figuring this out alone right now, and this way enables me to learn my printer better/easier than if someone simply told me what was wrong with my prints. I would rather troubleshoot myself first, and if i can't find the fix then ask others for assistance.
So from your reply, i think its safe to assume that as long as i print with a wall thickness 1.2mm or bigger then it will be optimal for the print.
Thank you for your assistance, and i will be sure to post my make of the benchy in the near future for others to see and compare to, to get answers on what they can do themselves to improve their prints.
Thanks,
Sam.
Thanks Sam :) We look forward to see your prints and answer any questions you have.
For those who want to try #3DBenchy as a 3MF file in the slicing software, we have now created and uploaded the file 3DBenchy.3mf. It is a modern file format better suited for 3D printing. For more information visit http://www.3mf.io/
The original 3DBenchy.stl original file weighs 11,3 MB. The new 3DBenchy.3mf weighs just 3,1 MB but still contains the exact 3D surface information. Please note that not all 3D printing software packages today support the new .3mf file format.
We played a bit with the Sketchfab.com features for virtual reality and configured #3DBenchy so that anyone with a mobile phone and simple VR set can stand inside the bridge and be the skipper! :)
You can alos see the video below:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=195e3aZtcG0
the base came out perfectly but the cab was all distort and off where it should be.
any pointers or any help?
thanks
In most cases it is important to have adequate cooling of the plastic while 3D printing. Please submit a make with some images so that we can help you further.
It says: For a full set of instructions please visit http://3DBenchy.com.
but I can't find the instructions anywhere?
and the troubleshooting section is always empty so how so you tune with this if you new to the art.
Thanks hootiehoo for your comment. We are working on documentation to be released in the near future. Please stay tuned! :)
If you wish you can subscribe to http://newsletter.3DBenchy.com
Why does Slic3r (v1.2.9) say "Auto-repaired (1430 errors)"?
I would have thought such a popular test object would be manifold.
Thanks for your question. :) We don't have the exact answer but think that it has to do with what and how Slic3r interpretes the mesh for "errors".
Thanks for asking Fab Lab Olbia :)
.. #3DBenchy does not float in water (yet) but there is a great accessory you can 3D-print to make it float. It is made by Thingiverse user thingiverse.com/dsb007.
Make Benchy Float Accesories: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1598845
I love this model so much that I thought to myself, "I wonder how big I can make this?" The answer? About 3.5 times the size of the original model!!!!! I don't know what the use will be, it might just become a planter for succulents like the little one I made! However it turns out, It'll be amazing. Thank you for making this model!
I know right! I love his model also. I have made one that was 485% bigger than the original size!
Thanks for your kind words about #3DBenchy Captain_Zeta! :) We surely like to print different sizes too and will probably borrow your idea of planting stuff in the cargo area of #3DBenchy. Please share your print as a make if you have the opportunity in the future.
Cheers :)
Can you make a customizer for the bottom text? I want to print some of these for the crew of a sailing journy...
Thanks Synthron for your suggestion. Unfortunately we don't have plans to make a customizable version of #3DBenchy but feel free to edit the file for your own purposes. To see a detailed description of the licence terms, please see: http://3dbenchy.com/license
Where if the file for a flag? Is there supposed to be a flag? Because I saw that there was a hole when I printed mine and I thought, "where's the flag?"
We made the hole as a feature to test small-diameter skew holes. There is no flag file yet but feel free to make your own. You can simply use a small piece of wire or splint of a tooth-pic, as a flag pole. :)
well i recently got my geeetech g2s pro printer (delta rostock) to work.. printed my first test print yesterday.. nothing more than an outher shell to calibrate the best temp for my pits of abs. picked 195 degree C and a bed temp of 50 C reluctantly sliced it with cura as slic3r gives errors... and started to print.
actually started great.. but around lines 90-100 something strange started to happen. I believe it didn't go up anymore.. but forward (y axis / towards me) so spaghetti on one side.. and a distance on the other while not growing.
i could make a picture, but don't understand how to add it to here.
anyone any ideas on this issue. oke i must admitt hat it is not really 3D benchy related more than printer.
kind regards, matt
Your 3d printer didn't hit the maximum height I assume, so the only thing that was wrong was the slicer you used. This file is so high resolution it naturally troubles the slicer. Have you tried printing it again? Or on a different slicer? I printed mine on an UP! Mini and it handled it fine.
I'm trying to do a multipart Printing. Slic3r told me that the STL "3DBenchy_-Multi-part-Single-Hull-_3DBenchy.com.stl" is not manifold and so the result is not good.
Do you have a good STL for this part?
thanks
Thanks for your comment. We have noticed that specifically Slic3r is sensitive to this mesh. We recommend you to download netfabb Basic and adapt the mesh.
Unfortunately, netfabb is not able to fix it. I have fixed it by using MeshLab.
Im having trouble with this part too. Would you mind sharing the fixed part?
I installed netfabb.. but the one part file is error free according to netfabb, but still the slicing by slic3r gets really messed up.
pitty!
I'm able to print and it looks okay, except the windows (all 4) sage a little at the top peak. Any ideas what settings I should look at for correcting that? I get the same results with both PLA and ABS with temp changes applicable to those filaments. Other bridge test prints with much wider spans and smaller overheat material come out perfectly. I'm using Cura on Prusa I3 type printer.
It is difficult to diagnose accurately why the windows sag. The main reason for sagging bridge regions is the movement speed of the extruder in relation to extrusion rate and cooling. These need to be adjusted in the slicing software. Faster movements across the gap and stronger cooling is necessary.
Found out this 3D model has multiple polygon errors that some slicers might not be able to handle. There are several 2 point polygons and some nasty nonplanars that appear to not triple. Will upload a fixed one to Remixes.
have you ever uploaded this?
would be very interested in the link :D thanks in advance :D
I am not able to fix it. I don't blame the uploader, it is probably the STL exporter he is using. I have found CAD programs like Solidworks and Solidedge have STL exporters that make way too many polygons, leave thousands of holes, 2D polygons and huge file sizes. Some slicers are more error compensating than others. Slic3r does not like any bad geometry. I have been able to 3D print Benchy, several of them but never liked the quality of the layers. It also takes way too long to be useful as a benchmark. I use several calibration targets for my troubleshooting benchmarks. The complete Benchy will appear to have few errors in netfabb but trying to fix them creates all kinds of nonplanar polygons. I thought I would go in and fix each part, then assemble the whole thing but all the parts seem to have massive geometry errors. This is just the hull and there are over 23000 holes and thousands of shells.
http://imgur.com/El3TFM4
not bad however I printed at 0.5 scale and now i have to sing my printer to sleep to stop it from have boat related nightmares
In what way ? I'm curious as I have it printing on my Hephestos 2 using Simplyfy3d now at 0.05 with no support and (so far) so good...
this is the issues I'm having
https://forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=4036&p=17589#p17589
and this
fyi i have bridge settings to 50% speed reduction and 80% extrusion mult.
S3D, and Cura, are absolutely horrid at bridging due to them considering the outer layers of the bridge as not being a bridge so they go so fast you get what you are getting. For me it was so fast that it ripped one side off and drug it around then went slow as it was trying, while dragging the left side with it, to print the inner bridge. Go to S3d, or Cura, and home in on the layers where the bridging just begins. Do it by lines not layers and you will see the inner bridge is dark blue (going slow) and the outer string wall is in green (going fast). It is a known bug I saw on their forums since 2013 but has never been addressed and after seeing the same deal in Cura I begin to wonder if the engine, at its core, in s3d is the same as in Cura because Slic3r does not have this issue. For me, especially at $149, this is a deal breaker.
i think you just dont know how to bridge, i print bridges like a mofo on s3d. and benchy prints fine. dont know what your experienceing but they have since fixed it
No, they have not. Go print a 100mm bridge or just look at it because, and I brought this up on their forums, it has NOT been fixed.
I suggest you read what skelator said BECAUSE that is precisely the bug I was talking about AND it is well laid out so even YOU can see, and understand (it has pretty pictures) what we are talking about.
look at my previous comment and picture, try to print this bridge torture test:
https://www.thingiverse.com/make:175391
see my detailed posting in S3D forums and contribute if you can
https://forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=4036&p=17589#p17589
Exactly, YET the pretty pictures isn't enough to some people. Shows the errors I mentioned where the perimeters of the bridge are not treated correctly but we still manage to get a troll.
im not arguing that when you look at the link you see what is there, i can read, im simply replying to the original comment that this cannot be printed with s3d. then you told me it doesnt to bridges properly. i showed you two examples of how your wrong. its not being a troll when someone says something is not possible and i simply say that it is. ill gladly print the "torture test" if that will help.
I stand by what I, and skelator, has said. It is a known bug for years now (go back on their forum) but has never been fixed.
btw, on the picture you showed why the gap in the middle?
Getting some odd gouging on the port freeboard exactly the same on 2 prints. Like it rode up on the pier. Looks like it will need a dutchman and some chinking. Something is up with my slicer or the model. Looks like the official site is down as well.
Did you see this video of the (first 8 hours of the) making of a slightly scaled up version? https://youtu.be/ZSS_vR1I1x4
And here is the result: https://ksr-ugc.imgix.net/assets/004/229/248/83b8bbab7af188b338d91a5b89458fa2_original.jpg?v=1438197245&w=639&fit=max&auto=format&q=92&s=69da6790cb3581835fefb8fd12c0e56f
You are kidding me with that right? What was the point? If you want to prove something add holds and bulkheads and cabins and hatches.
We have now finalised the #3DBenchy STL files for dual- and multi-part color 3D printing! The files are now added to this thing so that everyone can download them and give it a try. :)
Read more about dual-print at http://3dbenchy.com/?p=709
I am having some strange issues with 3DBenchy_-Dualprint-_Hull_Box_Bridge_walls_Rod-holderChimney-_3DBenchy.com.STL when uploading into SLIC3R. Has anyone else experienced any problems? Meshmixer doesnt report any problems. Netfabb will not repair. Thanks!
Thanks ImmersedN3D for informing about the issue with this file. We have also tested this and see that when importing the file Slic3r yields the following message:
- Auto-repaired (268551 errors)
The STL file has normal issues, meaning that it is made of three shells that have some overlapping triangles on the contact surfaces of these shells.
Maybe Slic3r does interpret this as an critical error and tries to do some auto-repair, which in this case makes the file topology worse. We have seen that in the latest version of the software (1.2.9) the surface of the STL file get all corrupted with holes and inverted surfaces.
One way to give this another try is to see if the auto-repair function in Slic3r can repair can be suppressed so that the software does not modify the topology.
This is very interesting and valuable feedback since one can realise that the #3DBenchy files can also be used to test the capabilities and settings of the different slicing software solutions.
Great model, thanks for making this available, and for providing the separate parts! I am having fun printing and tweaking printer settings.
Even though all 'Multi-part' meshes are nicely closed and manifold, I noticed a different issue which can create problematic cases: the union of all the meshes (the different parts) does not exactly reproduce the original. There seems to be tiny 'pockets' in between the meshes - these are very small, much less than a millimeter. My guess would be that when the parts were extracted using the modeling software, it did not produce a perfect complement. If you still have the original shapes used to extract each part (intersection?), I would be interested in trying this out in our own CSG engine -- this is a very interesting use case.
Thanks!
[edit] Just after posting I realized I could do the following: Dilate each part by a very small amount -- 0.001 mm (it 'grows' outward) -- and then take the intersection of the original mesh with this dilation of the part. This extracts a clean shape for each part. The union of all the parts is then strictly identical to the original surface. The color boundary between parts moves at most by 0.001 mm. I am wondering, does this elect for derivative work? (i.e. can I post my file -- an IceSL script -- the original stl are never modified in this process).
Thanks sylefeb for your explanation regarding testing the multi-part STL files. We made these deliberately manually by detaching the different features and closing them. The result was then used in boolean operations, in several steps. We are aware that there are gaps and tiny "imperfections" in this model.
The reason why we decided to make these parts manually in polygon modelling mode, instead of deriving it from the initial "pure" CAD data, is that the purpose of #3DBenchy is twofold. It tests both the hardware (3D printers) and the software (slicers) and how these can adapt for human-made "imperfect" 3D models. In other words, the very small imperfections replicate what what is commonly produced by different varying 3D modelling techniques, and thus it is valuable for developers of slicing and mesh-healing software.
Feel free to send us the files you made and we will gladly analyse and consider publish them in the future. :)
Fair enough - I agree this is a nice test case and that slicers should be robust to that. And indeed, this made me restart work on a small hole filter for IceSL ;-) (even though the offsetting + CSG script completely resolves the issue already).
3DBenchy is killing me! I can get a pretty good print on my Wanhao Duplicator 4S but my Ultimaker 2 is printing it with zebra stripes on the sides of the cabin! I have posted am image with my make from the Duplicator 4S. I am not the only person in the Ultimaker family fighting this but assume that others have either not had the issue or have gotten around it. If the latter, I wonder how?!?!?
I have tried different resolutions, different infills, different orientations on the build platform, different flow rates, different number of shells, and different speeds (though currently trying one more variation of speed). Always the stripes and always on the same two sides of the cabin (but not on the engine box). I have heard that changing acceleration might help but have not figured out how to do that yet!
The fleet of 3DBenchy's that I have printed is getting ridiculous. There is a topic on this on the Utilimaker forum here: https://ultimaker.com/en/tips-and-tricks/view/16357-why-does-my-print-have-tiny-zebra-stripes?page=1#reply-109627
Thanks for posting about your issues regarding #3DBenchy and the stripes. If you mean the diagonal stripes visible on the vertical walls of the cabin, we believe that they are at result of the infill pattern "touching and bulging" on the perimeter lines.
If you open the expert settings in the Cura slice engine, you will be able to see a value called "Infill overlap (%)". The default value is 15%. Try making this smaller and see if the result changes.
I printed at 10% overlap and the lines are still evident. I am not even sure it is worth going lower as the look exactly the same!
This feels like an issue with the Cura slicer except that I get the same thing when I use Simplify3D...which makes it an idiosyncrasy of my particular flavour of Ultimaker 2 (as I find it hard to believe no one prints without Zebra effects)?
I assume that there are other Ultimaker 2's in the wild that can print this with out the lines? Would love to hear a confirmation and if there was anything needed from a profile perspective.
Very cool item. Good idea! I am working on developing some software to help make 3D printers easier to start using. We are looking for BETA users and feedback if you'd please give our 3 minute survey a go! http://bit.ly/3dprinting_survey
Thank you!
We use Printrbot Simple Metal printers with Repetier-Host and Slic3r software. When I go to slice the boat, I get a "box". Any idea how to change that? Never had trouble slicing anything before.
Thanks
What version of Slic3r? I have tried 1.2.5 and 1.2.7 with good results.
For some reason Slic3r complains that the mesh isn't manifold, but all other software we have tried says that it's a solid mesh. This doesn't seem to have any impact on the sliced result though (not for me anyway).
After importing/exporting it through blender, the manifold errors in slic3r disappears. It seems there is something with the STL-file that slic3r doesn't like.
To cast more light on 3D-print settings we created a dedicated topic on the #3DBenchy Group here on Thingiverse.
Feel free to give us feedback so we can adapt and improve this topic.
Hey everyone, if you want to easily see what settings and printers others are using to get their #3Dbenchy results check this out. You can even win free filament every week for uploading your own Prints!
https://pinshape.com/items/4786-3d-printed-3dbenchy-the-jolly-3d-printing-torture-test
Thanks for the kind words PrintThatThing! Glad you like our little adventurous boat! :)
oh man. :( it cant float. i was gonna use it in my fish tank just for fun (w/ somthing around the filter so it woudnt sink )
We know! :)
Unfortunately the design of #3DBenchy did not allow for buoyancy :( But fear not! In due time new accessories will be released for this little boat fur such nice decorative uses as in a fish tank.
Stay tuned!
cool prints!!
But can you make a duel color model we could use to test multicolored printers?
Thanks for your comment! :)
Sure thing! In a few days time there will be new 3D files that we will add to this thing. These will be basically an unmodified #3DBenchy (from a externa shape point-of-view) but made for dual print and also a textured version for color-3D-printers.
Stay tuned for the upcoming downloadable files.
The 3D-printed green #3DBenchy as the main image for this thing was 3D-printed on a RepRap-based 3D printer.
Dziękuję! Cieszymy się, że ci się podobało # 3DBenchy
We are glad you liked #3DBenchy... and had to give Google Translate a try! ;) hope the text was correctly translated.
If the boat house was moved back a bit so it was balanced it would actually float.
Thanks for the suggestion Galaktican! Under the design process we considered making the boat buoyant but it would not have fit the other specifications. In our tests (even the buoyant version) kept capsizing :) since it also is too top-heavy. Having made a compromise we opted for the current design and size.
The object alone doesn't seem very valuable, as I do not think the problem is that there is a shortage of calibration objects on Thingiverse, it is that most people have no idea how to adjust the appropriate settings in their slicer or related printer software. While the PDF calls out many specific features of the test, it gives you no idea whatsoever as to how to interpret the data. This SEEMS aimed at a total novice consumer, but fails to provide actionable guidance to such an individual.
That said, this is neat and I hope the guide gets HEAVILY expanded upon. :)
Thank you donstratton for your comment. We totally understand and also feel that there is so much more to calibrating a 3D printer than to just printing one single object.
The reason why we designed #3DBenchy is because we realised that after almost seven years of FFF 3D printing, we must have made thousands of small 20x20x10 and countless benchmarking parts. After printing them we just threw them away into the trashcan.
With #3DBenchy we tried to put as many specific shapes and surfaces into a single and small model, that one also can recognise as a model and maybe keep or give it away to a child (or adult!) :)
Realising that any benchmarking part is a compromise, we will also add more value to it in the future regarding hints on how to actually calibrate and get the most out of a 3D printer.
We promise that we will heavily expand upon #3DBenchy and really look forward to this! Stay tuned here on:
So, Is there a calibration object on Thingiverse that does describe how to adjust settings for a given problem?
We just tried in version 1.2.5 of Slic3r and it worked well.
See image: https://www.flickr.com/photos/3dbenchy/16525321913/
Try downloading the latest version of Slic3r.org and use fresh default print settings, to see if it works for you.
Really cool! I made one in Carbon fiber-reinforced filament and have already found some areas where i can calibrate my printer to work better! The guide in the pdf was great!
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