This is a new fan shroud and extruder mounting plate that will replace the tiny squirrel cage fan thats excessively noisy.
You will need to print out either the 30mm or 40mm Fan shroud (nocap) and the new extruder mount plate. The other STLs are there in case anyone wants to make a derivative work from them.
The only support you will need is in the tiny notch on the tip of the fan shroud.
The extruder mount is adapted from the stock Lulzbot extruder mount plate STL that was supplied with my Taz 5. The fan shroud duct is my own creation.
See the instructions tab for correct fan ordering and a full parts list of what hardware you will need to complete the build.
Here are a couple videos:
The following hardware list assumes you would be converting an existing single hex extruder head from Lulz and would be using the extruder assembly, existing 40mm fan and all existing wiring and connectors.
Here is my chosen fan (Evercool 30x30x7 ball bearing 5v):
And the ebay link:
8x m3x3.8mm Heat Sets
2x m3x10mm Hex screws (attach shroud to extuder mount)
2x m3 washers
4x m3x10mm Pan Head screws (can use hex but pan gives more lateral clearance to the z limit switch/wiring)
1x 2 Pin connector
2x Pins for the above connector
Heat shrink tubing
2x 33ohm 1/8w or 1x 15ohm 1/4w resistor (optional if you want to cut down the rpms and sound level even more)
These are for the wiretie to hold it to the aluminum plate, seen below with a bread twistie temporarily.
1x m3x8mm Hex screw
1x m3 washer
Fan Shroud (shown in orange in the images)
Extruder Mount plate (shown in green in the images)
I played with some resistors in series and I like 15 to 16ohms. It cuts the rpms down and the noise but still leaves way more airflow than the dinky little fan the Taz had. I have two 33ohm in parallel to get 16ohms. They are 1/8w so that gives me 1/4w dissipation across the two. Ran it off a PC supply for 2 hours and the resistors never changed temp that I could tell with my fingers.
No changes are made to the Taz itself and this mod is 100% reversible. You will make no changes to any Taz5 part that is not reversible. If you wish to return to the stock setup, simply transfer all your parts back to the stock mounting plate and print on!
Print the two parts:
Once they are printed and you have assured yourself you have all the necessary hardware purchased continue..
Disassemble your existing Taz extruder head:
- Snip the filament off above the extruder leaving it in place through the extruder into the hot end. This will maintain extruder to hot end alignment.
- Remove the head from the Taz
- Snip any wire ties on the wires.
- Remove the stock fan shroud (leaving fan attached), set shroud, fan and 2 screws/washers aside for use later.
- Remove the extruder from the mount plate and set the extruder and 2 screws/washers aside for use later.
- Set the extruder plate with the small squirrel cage fan aside, it will not be used for this build but you should keep it in case anything goes awry with the rebuild.
Assemble the new head:
- Apply the 4 heat sets to the new printed mounting plate, two on each side.
- Apply the remaining 4 heat sets to the new fan shroud.
- Seat the extruder and hot end in place on the new mount.
- Finger tighten ONLY the two mounting screws for the extruder/hot end.
- Mount the newly printed fan shroud while turning and aligning the Hexagon fins and set screw so they properly align to the new shroud cutout.
- Tighten the exposed hot end mounting screw fully.
- Remove the fan shroud.
- Tighten the second hot end mounting screw fully.
- Mount the new 30mm fan on the new duct.
- Snip the YELLOW wire off about 1/2" from the fan case, its not used for this build.
- Snip the connector off the end of the black and red wires and discard, its not used.
- Slip a 1" length of larger diameter piece of heat shrink tubing over the wires including the yellow one.
- Cut a length of smaller diameter heat shrink tubing to length so it leaves 2" of the fan wires exposed at the end.
- Slip the smaller diameter of heat shrink tubing over the wires and ensure it goes inside the larger diameter tubing which should butt up against the fan housing.
- Using a lighter, shrink the two pieces of heat shrink down to lock them in place. You should now have all wires covered except for 2" at the end where the connector was.
- Cut another piece of larger heat shrink tubing 2" long. A little more if you got it.
- Slip it over the wires but DO NOT HEAT! Leave it loose! Simply slide it down by the fan out of the way for now.
- Strip 1/8" of insulation off the end of the black wire.
- Solder it to a pin and crimp the captive tabs down to support it.
- If you used two 1/8W resistors, twist the wire of one around the wire of the other very close to the resistor body.
- Twist the other end in the same way making the second resistor piggy back on top of the first.
- Solder them at each end close to the resistor body.
- Snip off the excess wire from the second resistor, leaving the straight leads of the first resistor.
- Trim one lead down leaving approximately 1/8" remaining.
- Solder it to the second pin and crimp the captive tabs down to support it.
- Trim the second lead down leaving a bit more than 1/8" or so.
- Trim the red wire back by the length of the exposed resistors from the base of the pin to the base of the resistor away from the connector pin. This will allow both the red and black wire to be approximately the same length and keep the pins straight.
- Strip 1/8" insulation from the red wire and tin it.
- Solder the red wire to the remaining resistor lead.
- Check that the two pins are positioned approximately inline. If not, unsolder the red wire and adjust its length to correct.
- Holding the connector with the end that you insert the pins into facing you and the open end facing away, insert the black wire pin into the right channel.
- Insert the red wire pin into the left channel.
- Use the squirrel cage fan wire and connector as reference.
- Once you are sure you have the polarity correct, push each pin into the housing until it clicks in place.
- Slide the loose heat shrink tubing up to cover the resistors and heat it to lock it in place. No exposed wires should be seen.
- Install the assembled fan/shroud onto the mounting plate and tighten it down fully.
- Install the 40mm cooling fan/shroud you removed from your existing head and fully tighten it down. Be sure not to pinch the heater and thermistor wires.
- Route all wires up and put new wire tie(s) in place like they were when you cut them.
- MARK the new fan lead with a yellow indicator. I used yellow wire ties. Yellow paint or stickers work too. Just be sure you can identify this connector from the cooling fan connector. It MUST plug into the Taz harness connector with the yellow dot. The yellow dot connector has only 5v on it. The cooling fan connector has 24v on it and will toast the new fan and/or resistors if plugged in to the cooling fan connector.
At this point you should have a fully working extruder head. Before attaching it to your Taz, back out the Z-stop screw a couple turns in case there are any differences in height. You don't want to slam the nozzle into your bed. Re-zero the head and re-level your bed after attaching the head.
Verify all is working. The new fan should come on the moment you power up your Taz. The cooling fan won't come on until you enable it with pronterface or the LCD panel.